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Justin224

Radio Module Wiring

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Forgive me if this is a redundant question, but I was hoping for some clarification...

I'm bypassing the audio set-up in my 89 and installing a completely separate system. I'm currently working on wiring the head-unit, but am unsure of which wires to use. I believe I see three different harnesses connected to the module ( one blue, one white, and one black - each with there own set of wires). Basically, I'm looking for help on which are the correct wires to connect to my aftermarket receiver. I'm running patch cables to the amps, so really I'd like input on the power ignition wire, power battery wire, and ground.

I see the pin # configurations on the module, but was still unclear. I'd like for the new system to power on when the car starts, and was afraid that if I used a wire from the wrong auxilary without knowing, I might have to hit play on the CRT everytime I want it to work.

Thanks in advance,

Justin

Edited by Justin224 (see edit history)

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About 10 lines down from this post is "MP3 wiring on an '89". That should give you a good start...

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Thanks. I read that thread awhile back before the wire-chart was added, great stuff.

If I understood that right, the four wires that split off of the run below is exactly what I'm looking for, correct?...

SNC00941a.jpg

and into the black connector on-top of the module...

SNC00943a.jpg

(I see 21 years allows for some serious gunk to collect here :D)

If the pink wire is just the power to the antenna, any ideas to where I can find the actual plug that will hook into the new receiver???

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There are many options for connections. The power and ground connections you are seeking are available at the rear of the tape deck console if that is the location where you are planning to mount the head unit.

The black plug you have identified already is another source for the power, ground and also the remote antenna connection you need.

If you want to maintain stock so you can put things back down the road, use an available connector to allow making the connections you need into the car harness simply. These are available almost everywhere car audio is sold for late 80s early 90s GM cars similar to this one off ebay:

attachment.php?attachmentid=54636&stc=1&d=1272850419

Plug the black connector you remove from the radio module into the appropriate section of this plug. Connect the red, yellow and black wires to the corresponding wires from the connector from your new head unit. The pink wire from the black connector will connect to a blue wire in this plug which also will be connected to the head connector to supply the signal to raise and lower the antenna. You may or may not want to use the speaker connections as a common connection point from the amp to the speakers without having to run wires each speaker location all over again.

post-55241-143138208404_thumb.jpg

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Thanks again, the harness you mentioned will be great to give the little extra length that I was looking for, and retaining the original connection. I'll have to pick one up...

The head-units actually going in the armrest rather than where the tape deck is...

SNC00928.jpg

(I have an iPod connected for most of the controls, so I really won't need to open the armrest for much)

I know that the antenna's power will come from the wire in the harness, but isn't there an actual plug somewhere in the brain? I have the seats installed and haven't been able to locate it from my peering.

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The actual antenna wire plugs in to the top of the radio module towards the rear. It is hard to get to from the side. Much easier from the top. It is a mini plug popular with Delco units. Your head unit may use a standard type in which case you will need an adapter. You probably need an extension of some kind to get the reach to get back to where your installing your head unit. It's number 6 in attached photo where the plug you will be using for power is numbered 5.

attachment.php?attachmentid=54714&stc=1&d=1272946406

If your head unit needs a standard Motorola male plug you can find an adapter like this one off ebay probably where you find the radio plug.

GM TRUCK CAR CHEVY GMC PONTIAC RADIO ANTENNA ADAPTOR - eBay (item 360182633266 end time May-20-10 14:17:49 PDT)

post-55241-143138208644_thumb.jpg

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That's exactly what I was looking for, thanks a lot.

One last thing that I was a little hesitant about... I bought an aftermarket wiring harness for my head-unit since I misplaced the original after tearing it out of the truck. The new harness didn't come with a fuse set-up on the battery power wire (the original had a "choke coil with 10A fuse" setup). I assume I have to buy an inline fuse holder myself. Would that alone suffice, or does the "choke coil" do more than just protect from a jolt.

I was going to pick this up... 10-Amp Inline Fuse Holder for 1¼x¼" Fuses - RadioShack.com

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Or rather, is this essentially what I need?...

PAC CSS-100 (css100) - Noise Filters - Sonic Electronix

I found that the choke coil cuts out noise from the vehicle power.

If this is infact what I need, would I still need a 10-amp fuse holder like I mentioned before? (I know that my original harness had a 10A fuse, but cannot tell if this noise filter has a fuse setup included, or rather if it is just for 10-amp system)

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If your alternator is in good shape, it should not need the noise filter. (And the CS-144 alternators that come in our Reattas are pretty robust.)

With the "plug and play" setup that Mc_Reatta showed, the power available through the factory connector is already fused at the fuse panel. If you were to run the power line straight to the battery, then you would need to provide your own fuse - as close to the battery as practical.

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Thanks again, that's what I was looking for.

However, I seem to be stuck. I picked up a harness and wired everything up today, using the four wires that were in the black connector (number 5 in the picture that MC_Reatta attatched, the battery, ignition, antenna, and ground). However, I can't seem to get any power to the head unit. I thought it might have been a bad connector, so I spliced them together manually. Still no power. I did notice that the antenna is getting signal, and able to operate as it should.

I really have no idea what the problem could be. My guess is something with the Reatta's system.

I also noticed that hitting the play button to turn on the tape deck is no longer an option. The button is still on the screen, but I'm unable to press it... not sure if that means anything, but it's something I noticed and thought might be helpful.

If anyone has any ideas to diagnose or solve this, I'd really appreciate it. Thanks

Edited by Justin224 (see edit history)

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This is where you need a DVM or test light to check the connections are correct and figure out why your head unit isn't working.

Are you sure head unit is still functioning? If connected as described, you should have 12 v between the red and black wires all the time, and also between the yellow and black wires when ignition is on. Can you verify this? Are these wires connected to the head unit properly?

Don't understand the comment on the antenna. If the head unit is telling it to go up and down and it's functioning, then the head unit is getting power.

Once you pull the black plug from the Reatta module, then it should be dead to the CRT and none of the control buttons should function. That's why most of us try to work with the stock system to allow us to add the upgrades we want while still keeping the CRT control interface functioning.

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I used a meter to test the lines, and I'm reading power all the way through, on the constant, ignition, and ground. I'ved even tested two different head units, and one of them was new right out of the box. I'm just not seeing any sign on power to the front display.

The wires are hooked up to the head unit properly. I simply unplugged the black connector, and spliced the 4 wires to the new harness. I noticed that the Reatta's ignition wire was yellow and battery was red, as the head unit's color scheme was swapped. Then I just spliced the ground's and antenna's wires to their match. Was there something I'm missing. I wasn't sure if something else was interferring. I assumed I'd have power by now...

What I meant from the antenna comment was that, when the plug is not connected to the head unit and I start the car, there is no response, but when the head unit is hooked up, it will operate. I figured it meant that a signal was getting through.

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Try taking one of the head units and connect it directly to the battery and see if it works. That would eliminate any problems with the wiring unique to the Reatta. Then you will know if the head unit is bad or the way you have it wired to the Reatta is wrong.

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There is this one other connection on the two connector side - pin 13 "T-ON". I think that may need to be asserted.

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padgett, what exactly do you think i should do with this wire? if it's on the C6 connector on the underside of the module then i have not removed it. should i unplug it altogeter or do i need it connected to the head unit? sorry i'm a little unsure of what you meant

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I don't know whether ground or power but think it must be asserted for the radio to *think* the tape deck is there.

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You are getting power to the head unit, and the antenna working confirms this. The fact that you aren't getting the display to light up sounds like it is a problem at the head end. Even if the yellow and red wires are reversed to the head it should light up. What is the make / model of the head unit. Maybe there is a manual online that might shed some light.

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yeah that's what i thought, and that's why i tried a second head unit, but no luck... my unit is an alpine cda-9831, andi can't recall the other but it was a 2010 alpine as well.

the illuminaion wire is not connected but i don't think it's necessary. i'm at a dead end besidesrunning new power and ground wires

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Did you perform an initial system start up by pressing the reset button after you hooked up the power?

Initial System Start-Up

Be sure to press the RESET switch when using the unit for the first

time, after installing the CD changer, after changing the car battery, etc.

1 Turn off the unit power.

2 Press RESET with a ball-point pen or similar

pointed object.

reset is small recessed button to the right of the mute button.

Edited by Mc_Reatta (see edit history)

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I actually tried reseting it earlier today, no luck though.

what's the deal with the 'T-on' pin mentioned earlier? that's still pretty unclear what is meant by asserting it. how likely is this related to my problem? what does this wire function as?

i'm using that after market wire harness for the head unit and it doesn'tt have that fuse setup attached. also the head unit is rated 10A and i saw the reatta's radio is 15A... any significance?

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I actually tried reseting it earlier today, no luck though.

what's the deal with the 'T-on' pin mentioned earlier? that's still pretty unclear what is meant by asserting it. how likely is this related to my problem? what does this wire function as?

This is a 5 v data input line to the module that tells it that the tape player is running. It is not used in the reatta as the crt controller does it via the data link. It tells the module to go to the aux signal input from the radio input. It has nothing to do with your situation as you are not using the stock module at all.

i'm using that after market wire harness for the head unit and it doesn'tt have that fuse setup attached. also the head unit is rated 10A and i saw the reatta's radio is 15A... any significance?

Extra 5 amp of the fuse is insignificant.

Your problem is either the power to the head unit or the unit itself. Recheck that you have 12 volts to the yellow input wire going into the unit and that the ground wire is well grounded. The head should power up if there is not an problem with the wiring to the display and it has been initialized per instructions. As Ronnie suggested you can use any 12 v source to check that the head does in fact power up. These units with movable displays have thin ribbon cables connecting the display to the body which can easily be damaged resulting in a dead display.

The fact the antenna will go up and down leads me to believe the unit is getting power, but the display is not working properly. You may want to take the unit to a car audio place and have them do a quick check that the unit is functional for you. If you have power to the unit and have done the reset procedure and there is no display you are probably chasing a broken unit.

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Alpine ? All of my comments have been about the stock 88-89 radio.

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Thanks for all of the help and quick response to help me through this situation....

I actually ran a new ignition and ground wire yesterday morning. Everything works great. Not quite sure where the root of my problem was in those wires, but problem solved. Thanks again

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Glad you got it running. Would be interesting why it wasn't working before you ran new wires. I suspect it was probably an issue with the grounding. 12 volts should be 12 volts.

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