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Chrysler transmissions, 1939-40.


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Guest Classiccars

Chrysler came out with Fluid Drive in 1939. As I understand it, FD is simply a fluid coupling between the engine and transmission. It does not have anything to do with the actual shifting of the gears inside the transmission. It simply allows the car to be left in gear when at a stop without having to push in the clutch.

In 1941-42 the shifting of the gears was done by a system Chrysler called "Vacamatic". I assume the shifting was done by vacuum. I assume if you had Vacamatic you also had to have FD. However, I've come across a lot of info that references Vacamatic as being optional and it makes it sound as though you could have ordered just FD without Vaca if you wanted. Someone educate me if I'm wrong.

In 1946-48, if you got FD, you also got the Hydraulically Operated transmission. As you would think, the shifting of the gears was done hydraulically.

So how was the shifting of the gears done in 1939-40?

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In Canada, the 1946 to 1948 Chrysler C38 Royals, and Saratogas, came with a fluid drive and 3 spd trans, and a 3.90 diff, stock. I am sure they could be upgraded to the M5 semi-auto trans.

The vacamatic 4 spd semi-auto trans in the earlier models, also was available with Overdrive.

Shifting gears with a 3 spd and fluid drive can be done as per manual, running through all gears, or you could leave it in 2nd gear for slower stop and go intown traffic, then only having to shift to 3 rd when needed. I am not sure if they could be left in 3rd gear, and just drivin like that, if so, it would be very slow take -offs.

But at a stop light, you do not need a clutch, nor do you have to constantly shift all gears, a nice thing in traffic around town.....

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You could go nuts trying to figure out the welter of transmissions used by Chrysler corproration between 1939 and 1957. But it went something like this.

Fluid coupling plus manual 3 speed. (Fluid Drive)

Fluid coupling plus overdrive 2 speed. (41-42 Vacamatic, straight eight models)

Fluid coupling plus vacuum controlled 4 speed (41-42 Vacamatic [Chrysler]or Simplimatic [DeSoto] six cylinder models)

Fluid coupling plus hydraulic controlled 4 speed (Fluid Drive, Fluid Matic Drive, Tip Toe Shift)

Torque converter plus 3 speed manual trans (Hydrive)

Torque converter plus hydraulic controlled 4 speed (Fluid Torque Drive)

Torque converter plus planetary 2 speed (Powerflite)

Torque converter plus planetary 3 speed (Torqueflite)

Plus the usual 3 speed manual and 3 speed manual plus overdrive on the Plymouths and the cheaper Dodge, DeSoto and Chrysler models.

You are correct about the fluid coupling being a self contained unit. It allowed slippage at low speeds and tightened up the faster you went. But there was always at least 3% slippage.

This was initially used with a regular 3 speed manual transmission and clutch. It eliiminated most clutch work in city traffic but that was about it.

There was another version that used an overdrive transmission. It was a 2 speed made by using a 3 speed plus overdrive, with low gear blocked out. This would shift in and out of overdrive in the usual way. When the fluid drive was added, it came close to an automatic transmission.

The Vacamatic transmission was a manual 4 speed that self shifted. If you know about transmissions, they have 2 shifter forks that control the gears. One moves back and forth for the 1-2 shift, the other for the 3-4 shift.

What they did was make a vacuum powered 3-4 shift. This had a similar effect to the overdrive. When combined with the fluid coupling it worked like this.

You could shift into gear and release the clutch fully before you moved an inch. Then drive away like any automatic. Once you get rolling just lift off the gas for a second and the tranny automatically shifts to high.

The shift lever allowed you to select high range (normal driving) low range (climbing hills, pulling through mud, snow or sand) and reverse.

Next came the M6 hydraulically controlled transmission. It worked basically the same as the Vacamatic or overdrive. But it worked hydraulically.

It had a little gerotor pump and a hydraulic cylinder to push the shifter fork back and forth. Hydraulic pressure was controlled by a solenoid valve and a governor.

The final refinement came in the 51-53 models when they went to an optional torque converter. I don't believe the torque converter existed when the fluid coupling was introduced. It was invented later.

The torque converter was not self contained. It needed a separate oil supply. On some models the oil supply was carried in its own oil pan like an automatic transmission. On other models the torque converter was supplied with oil from the engine crankcase. These models had a king size oil pan (10 quarts) and a special engine block with passages to feed the torque converter.

Just to make it more confusing, if you go back a few years to 1931 and 32 they offered a vacuum clutch and freewheeling. The Fluid Drive models had the freewheeling in the lower gears but not the vacuum clutch. If they had only added vacuum clutch to the fluid drive they could have eliminated the clutch pedal and had a fully automatic transmission 14 years earlier than they did. Why they did not do this is one of those mysteries that may never be solved.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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Guest Classiccars

Rusty, thanks for all of this.

It sounds like the answer to my question is that in 1939-40 the shifting of the gears will still done manually. The Fluid Drive would allow you to take off in 2nd gear but you still had to use the clutch to shift into third gear. If the car was equipped with overdrive, the shifting in and out of that would have been the same as in earlier years, when they came out with it.

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Hey Rusty, was my info correct on the Chrysler Canada 1946-48 Royals being equipped with a fluid drive and 3 spd manual trans as stock.

I have been told this by a number of Mopar Gurus out in Western Canada, but have no way of knowing if this is correct.

You might remember, my car 1947 Chrysler Royal Club Coupe, has a dry clutch,3spd trans, and 3.73 rear end. This was done by someone other than me, about 25 years ago. I just tweaked it to make it correct. So basically my drivetrain is from a Canuck 1951 Dodge with a 218 Long block and the rest of the drivetrain.

I have a parts car with a 251, fluid drive and M6 trans, I do no think however I woould convert back to it.

My car is a of driver quality, and would never be a show car, actually the idea of a T5 trans, or an automatic OD trans is appealing to me.

Sorry did not mean to hi-jack this thread....Fred

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Classiccars - you are correct. The 39 and 40 models had a fluid coupling and a 3 speed manual transmission.

For town driving you could start off in second and drive around all day, stopping at stop lights and taking off without shifting or using the clutch. Out on the hiway you could shift into high and likewise drive around without shifting.

I once drove a 1948 Dodge limousine with this setup. This was a very large, heavy car on a long wheelbase comparable to Chrysler limos but with the smaller Dodge engine and 3 speed fluid drive. It would take off in 3d but acceleration was very slow. If you wanted to get moving it was best to start in low and run through the gears. But for normal driving you could leave it in second as long as you did not mind a leisurely takeoff, and did not exceed 30 MPH. It would go faster in second, probably up to 50 or so but the engine would be screaming.

fred please don't ask questions like that. I already strained my brain thinking up the first answer without getting into the Canada vs US models ha ha ha .

I know US made Dodge came with 3 speed plus fluid drive in the 46 to 48 period and Plymouth came with manual trans only. So both types of transmission were available at that time. It's just a question of what they chose to offer in which car.

I believe you are right about the cheaper Chryslers and DeSotos being available with plain 3 speed and 3 speed plus fluid drive in Canada, even if they were not in the US. But can't confirm this for sure.

It would be fairly easy to adapt a Chrysler flathead six to a modern automatic overdrive or manual trans. Because of the way the block was made with no flange or bellhousing at the back. They had a thick steel plate that bolted on the block to fit the transmission or bellhousing. So it would be a fairly simple matter for a machinist to make a plate to fit any transmission.

One thing to watch out for is the way the flywheel or flex plate bolts to the crankshaft. Modern cars have the flange close to the block with threaded holes for the bolts. The old flathead 6 used nuts and bolts that went thru plain holes. Consequently the flange extends back almost an inch farther, to make room to install the nuts and bolts. So, you need to space the transmission back a little so the clutch or torque converter will line up properly.

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Guest BaronvonR

I have a 39 DeSoto and it has the manual 3 speed with OD

The OD is an electric unit and really gives the car 5 forward gears....

First, Second, second OD, third and third OD...it is really a nice way to drive especially in town when you want more than second but too slow for third...like climbing hills....second OD is just great

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My understanding of Chrysler transmissions in the 39-40 timeframe is that fluid drive (FD) was only available on the stright eights. In 1940 the Saratogas, New Yorkers ands Crown Imperials came standard with a three speed mahual transmission, but FD coupled with OD was a $27, option. The Borg-Warner OD had the electric kickdown feature, called "Cruise-Climb" by Chrysler. Needless to say very few eights came without this option, but it was not offered on the Travelers. The FD transmission had three forward speeds and OD just like the sixes with OD, but the sixes did not have the FD. I have a 1940 Saratoga and you can shift through the gears normally or just leave it in third, stop without depressing the clutch, and then accelerate away, albiet leasurely. I understand that the same setup was an option on the eights in 1939 and 1941, except that in 41 first gear was blanked out. I find it to be a very flexable setup. One advantage of FD is that it eliminates sharp jerks on the transmission, the differential and the drive shaft. My Saratoga (top of the Chrysler line in 1940) will cruise all day at 65.

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Guest Classiccars
I have a 39 DeSoto and it has the manual 3 speed with OD

The OD is an electric unit and really gives the car 5 forward gears....

First, Second, second OD, third and third OD...it is really a nice way to drive especially in town when you want more than second but too slow for third...like climbing hills....second OD is just great

Baron, any chance you have pics of your car? I love the '39 DeSoto. A couple months ago I bought a 1948 New Yorker 4-door with 28,000-miles. I know the ownership history and am the 4th owner. I know I am really going to enjoy the car.

But I would equally have bought a '39 DeSoto if I could have found a restored one for what I paid for my New Yorker.

Where are you located? You can email me directly at jameswraymond@yahoo.com.

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Guest BaronvonR

I do have pix and just have to look for them or take some newer ones:)

I live in Connecticut

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Guest martylum

It sounds to me like we have some experts on the fluid drive and I need some advice. I'm working on a 49 Chrysler 6 cylinder with the 4 speed fluid drive also called an underdrive.I have a 48-50 shop manual for references.

The problem is the trans. will not upshift from 1st to 2nd dear when you let up on the throttle. It will shift from 3rd to 4th but only at about 30 mph. The shop manual states it should upshift to 2nd at 8 mph and 3rd to 4th at 14 mph. It also will not kickdown into 3rd when you floorboard the throttle.

I have installed a new wiring harness and wired up the carb's 3 connections which weren't wired when the car came into my shop.

Any suggestions on troubleshooting here.

Thanks-a 1st time trip into the intricacies of the fluid drive setup.

Martin Lum

marty@oldercar.com

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I have answered your question more directly in another thread. Now I would like to talk about how the tranny works a little bit. Once you understand how it works it becomes easier to figure out where the trouble is.

The tranny is shifted by an internal hydraulic piston. It only has 2 position, high gear and low gear. It is pushed by pressure from a little gerotor pump. The pressure is controlled by a solenoid valve.

That's it for the automatic shift. Then we get to the control system.

It is wired to cut power to the coil, essentially cutting the engine for a second, when the shift occurs.

There are 2 switches in the carb. One connects when the throttle is completely closed, the other when it is completely open.

The first controls the normal shift, the second is the kickdown. It is supposed to drop the tranny into 3d when you floor the gas pedal, as long as you are going less than 50.

On the air filter support is a little box containing a resistor and a circuit breaker. It must be wired in correctly. There are 2 connections on the coil, one on each side. One is to short out the coil the other is to supply power to the transmission solenoid.

On the transmission are 2 devices, the solenoid valve that controls the shift and the governor that controls the solenoid valve. The governor over rides the signal from the engine system to make sure the shifts occur when they are supposed to, according to the speed of the car.

That's about it for the control system. There is also a free wheel or over running clutch (think of a bicycle rear hub) in the transmission. It is there to allow the transmission to shift up, without using the regular clutch.

Since you have the manual you can look up how all this works. It seems complicated but if you think about it, and go through in your mind how it works in all different circumstances it is a pretty simple and logical system.

At that point it becomes a lot easier to pinpoint any defects.

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  • 6 months later...

Thank you for all the info. my problem is that the gear box jumps out of I guess 3rd gear shifting lever in the bottom position like a standered trans. won't stay engage from a deade stop also my govenor has no wire coming out from the top. It has vacume diaphram on the side of gear box with another device that has 2 wires attached to it may be solenoid. The diaphram has started to osolate or move back and forth is this a vacume leak the rod that comes out of the diaphram pushes against a lever? but doesn't stay fixed against lever, caburetor is the E6T2 correct for that car

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guess 3rd gear shifting lever in the bottom position like a standered trans. won't stay engage from a deade stop also my govenor has no wire coming out from the top. It has vacume diaphram on the side of gear box with another device that has 2 wires attached to it may be solenoid. The diaphram has started to osolate or move back and forth is this a vacume leak the rod that comes out of the diaphram pushes against a lever? but doesn't stay fixed against lever, caburetor is the E6T2 correct for that car

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Back in May I commented on my 1940 Saratoga with FD and OD (which came as a package on the New Yorker, Saratoga and Crown Imperial models). Since then I have read a number of questions about how the kickdown feature worked in these transmissions. My recommendation to anyone with a car this old is to disconnect the kickdown wire and forget the kickdown feature, as I have. The kickdown is subject to malfunctions and it puts a lot of strain on the drivetrain. With the 39 through 41 Chrysler eights with FD/OD you can shift into second over if you need more acceleration.

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Guest martylum

Hi-I wrote in last May about problems upshifting and downshifting with a 49 Chrysler 6 fluid drive unit. I replaced the wiring harness which was only partially hooked up at the carburetor (and in bad shape) and rebuilt the carburetor cleaning up the pushbutton downshift mechanism. Readjusting the bellcrank link on the carb and then adjusting the throttle linkage coming from the gas pedal eliminated the no downshift problem. The new harness helped the no upshift problems. The trans. had not been working well when I first looked it over as the wiring on the carb was disconnected. Bad wiring, misadjusted linkage, and a very hard to push carb. pushbutton seemed the major problems. The factory shop manual was a great aid in troubleshooting.

Trouble with 2 spark plugs fouling in a very short driving distance seems to have been improved by adding a can of Motor Restore to the crankcase. sthe car sat for many years before I worked on it.

Marty Lum

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An excellent repair resource for Chrysler semi-automatic transmissions is:

Transmission and Clutch Repair Information for Imperials and Chrysler Imperials

Incidentally, Chrysler and DeSoto owners can save themselves a great deal of confusion by understanding that the term Fluid Drive refers only to the fluid coupling, not the manual or semi-automatic gearboxes paired with it.

Dave

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[

A few clarifications are needed here as Fluid Drive was NOT a transmission and should not be connected with any transmission :

Fluid coupling (Fluid Drive) - with - 3 speed manual transmission (Introduced for 1939)

Fluid coupling (Fluid Drive) - with - 2 speed transmission with overdrive (Vacamatic [Chrysler 8 1941-42])

Fluid coupling (Fluid Drive) - with - vacuum controlled 4 speed transmission (M-4) (Vacamatic [Chrysler 1941-42 US six cylinder] or Simplimatic [Chrysler 6 CDN 1941-42 & DeSoto 1941-42])

Fluid coupling (Fluid Drive) - with - hydraulic controlled 4 speed transmission (M-5) (Simplimatic [Chrysler 1946-48], Tip Toe Shift [DeSoto 1946-48])

Fluid coupling (Fluid Drive) - with - hydraulic controlled 4 speed transmission (M-6) (Prestomatic [Chrysler 1949-50], Fluid Matic [Chrysler 1951-53], Tip Toe Shift [DeSoto 1949-53), Gyromatic [Dodge 1949-54])

Torque converter (Fluid Torque Drive) - with - hydraulic controlled 4 speed transmission (M-6) (Fluid Matic [Chrysler V8 1951-53, 6 1953], Tip Toe Shift [DeSoto V8 1952-53, 6 1953], Gyro Torque Matic [Dodge 1953])

Torque converter plus 3 speed manual transmision - (Hy-Drive [Plymouth 1953-54])

Torque converter plus 2 speed planetary transmission - (Powerflite 1953-1961)

Torque converter plus 3 speed planetary transmission - (Torqueflite 1956 & up)

The torque converter (Fluid Torque Drive) had a separate pump and reservoir in 1951-52, but for 1953 used the engine oil for supply and the engine oil pump for pressure, as did Hy-Drive.

The vacuum clutch was great in theory, but in reality was unreliable with its vacuum tubes and hoses. Both Packard and Hudson offered vacuum clutch and shifting systems in the late 1930's and through the 1940's. Both looked like plumber's nightmares.

But even a vacuum clutch would not have made it an automatic. You still needed a clutch to shift between the ranges, automatic or not, and you still needed to lift your foot off the accelerator to shift gears within each forward range.

The reason for Chrysler being last to offer an automatic has nothing to do with Chrysler engineering ability, but everything to do with K.T. Keller's conservative attitudes.

Bill

Toronto, ON

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Having spoken with a mechanic who lived and worked through the Fluid Drive/Hydramatic era, I would say that Chrysler introduced its fully automatic transmission (Powerflite, 1953) only after adequate materials existed to make automatic transmissions truly durable and trouble free.

Incidentally, Keller retired as Chrysler Corporation president in 1950 to coordinate the infant the U. S. guided missile program. If you survived the Cold War, you can thank K. T. Keller.

Dave

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  • 6 years later...

 putting together a 1939 plymouth sedan delivery. looking for a 3 speed stick transmission(fluid coupling) with bellhousing and stick shifter. duso59 at ya hoo dot com

 

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On 2.5.2010 at 2:01 AM, BaronvonR said:

I have a 39 DeSoto and it has the manual 3 speed with OD

The OD is an electric unit and really gives the car 5 forward gears....

First, Second, second OD, third and third OD...it is really a nice way to drive especially in town when you want more than second but too slow for third...like climbing hills....second OD is just great

 

BaronvonR is all correct: The 39/40 version can be driven as a 5-speed semi-automatic and give the added benefit of a proper 1st for a good get-away compared to the 41 where the 1st gear was non-selectable thanks to a blocking plate. Whatever happenes when you remove that plate remains to be told. Between OD/nonOD on 2nd and 3rd the 39/40 works well up and down via kick-down and can produce some non-statesmanlike acceleration (all things being relative). Understandable that the transmission issue is difficult, I at one stage had 38-39-41-46 transmissions laying in the garage and they all were different for added confusion.

CT-S 0006 gearkasse samling.jpg

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For the Canadian-built vehicles -  standard equipment with optional equipment (if any).  All Chrysler straight eight models were imported.

 

1940      Chrysler Royal and Windsor - 3 speed manual transmission - Fluid Drive not offered

1941-42 Chrysler Royal - 3 speed manual transmission - Fluid Drive with or without Simplimatic optional

1941-42 Chrysler Windsor - Fluid Drive with 3 speed manual transmission - Simplimatic optional

1946-48 Chrysler Royal - Fluid Drive with 3 speed manual transmission - Simplimatic optional

1946-48 Chrysler Windsor - Fluid Drive with Simplimatic

1949-50 Chrysler Royal - Fluid Drive with 3 speed manual transmission - Prestomatic optional

1949-50 Chrysler Windsor - Fluid Drive with Prestomatic

1951      Chrysler Windsor - Fluid Drive with 3 speed manual transmission - Fluidmatic optional

1951-52 Chrysler Windsor DeLuxe - Fluid Drive with Fluidmatic

1952       Chrysler Saratoga - Fluid Drive with Fluidmatic  -  Fluid Torque Drive optional

1953      Chrysler Windsor DeLuxe - Fluid Drive with Fluidmatic -  Fluid Torque Drive optional

1953      Chrysler New Yorker DeLuxe - Fluid Drive with Fluidmatic -  Fluid Torque Drive optional

1954      Chrysler Windsor Deluxe - Powerflite

1954      Chrysler New Yorker Deluxe - Powerflite

 

1940       DeSoto DeLuxe  and Custom - 3 speed manual transmission - Fluid Drive not offered

1941       DeSoto DeLuxe - 3 speed manual transmission - Fluid Drive with or without Simplimatic optional

1941       DeSoto Custom - Fluid Drive with Simplimatic

1942       DeSoto Custom - Fluid Drive with Simplimatic

1946-48  DeSoto Custom - Fluid Drive with Simplimatic

1949-52  DeSoto Custom - Fluid Drive with Tip-Toe-Shift

1952-53  DeSoto Firedome - Fluid Drive with Tip-Toe-Shift  -  Fluid Torque Drive optional

1953       DeSoto Powermaster -  Fluid Drive with Tip-Toe-Shift  -  Fluid Torque Drive optional

1954       DeSoto Powermaster -  Powerflite

1954       DeSoto Firedome  -  Powerflite

 

1940       Dodge Custom  - 3 speed manual transmission -  Fluid Drive not offered

1941       Dodge Luxury Liner- 3 speed manual transmission -  Fluid Drive optional

1942       Dodge Custom - 3 speed manual transmission  -  Fluid Drive optional

1946-48  Dodge Custom - Fluid Drive with 3 speed manual transmission

1949-50  Dodge Custom - Fluid Drive with 3 speed manual transmission  -  Gyromatic optional

1951-52  Dodge Coronet - Fluid Drive with 3 speed manual transmission  -  Gyromatic optional

1953       Dodge Coronet - Fluid Drive with Gyromatic - Fluid Torque Drive optional

1953-54  Dodge Crusader / Regent / Mayfair - 3 speed manual transmission  --  Hy-Drive* optional

1954       Dodge Royal  -  Powerflite

 

1953-54  Plymouth Plaza / Savoy / Belvedere - 3 speed manual transmission  --  Hy-Drive * optional

 

* - Hy-Drive had torque converter with 3 speed manual transmission. (1939 all over again).   Available from April 1953.

 

Chrysler of Canada never used the Vacamatic name in advertising, at least not on Canadian-built cars anyway. 

 

On the topic of reliability of automatic transmissions, that was proven during WW II with GM's Hydramatic.  Hydramatic was installed in a number of armed forces vehicles including the M5 Stuart tank (two, each mated to a Cadillac V8) and the M24 Chaffee light tank.   After the war GM advertised the Hydramatic as being "battle tested".   Starting with the 1949 models, car companies that could not afford to design and tool their own automatic began offfering Hydramatic - Lincoln (1949), Nash (1950),  Hudson, Kaiser, Frazer  (all 1951), and Willys (1953).  Only Henry J and all the Mopar cars did not offer an automatic by 1953.  And Plymouth was last of the Big Three in mid-1954 (Chevrolet - 1950, Ford - 1951).

 

Bill

Vancouver, BC

 

 

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

There are adapters available to put another trans behind a straight eight. I would regard this as a last resort. The stock setup is rugged, reliable, and if something goes wrong, usually simple and cheap to fix. Most troubles are due to being low on oil or broken or frayed wiring on the controls. Tell us what is wrong and maybe we can help.

 

Going straight for a different transmission is like fixing a loose faucet handle  by buying a whole new bathroom.

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This is a 1947 323 cui engine slightly modified to take the clutch and manual transmission of a 1938 Imperial 3-speed with manual OD switch. To go into my 1929 Series 65 Special, just 15 years in the making.. Main bonus is that the 38 has floor shift and there will be no Fluid Drive slippage.

554327300_CT-S190413Klarforclutchplate323(1).thumb.jpg.52a77bb263236ca57b38eb4a46bcdc15.jpg1308302502_CT-S190416Clutchplateoghusmontert323cui.thumb.jpg.9ff31e8ef18a6b758e8b2bef7f9520b5.jpg

 

 

However a good Fluid Drive with everything else OK does not slip much under heavy acceleration. My 1940 NewYorker went from sedate to brisk acceleration uphill by mounting a new coil  instead of the "initially good, but failing when hot" that the car came with. As mentioned above, sort out the electrics etc first before replacing your Fluid Drive.

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  • 6 months later...

hello, I bought a chrysler 1946 with fluid drive, it has been modified to 12volts, but the electrical part for the transmision was just disconnected so it just runs in low or high but never changes

The parts are there but were disconnected.  I would like to keep it as is but I need help to connect this parts, I checked them and they are all working. 

  I think there is no problem lowering the voltage to 6volts for the solenoid and maybe for the governor and the other piece for which I do not know the name , I am inserting pictures    There is no relay in the car, but I think that it can be bought, though I do not know if it would need to be 6 or 12

.  Please help me with this project of which I am very fond of 

88bc7520-c448-4c16-b711-f5977c62c244 (1).jpg

WhatsApp Image 2020-03-28 at 16.33.11.jpeg

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That small six sided part is the interrupter switch. It is one very costly part if you can find one. They are a single stud interrupter switch. 1949 and later are two terminal and cheap.

The drivers side fender well mounted transmission 6 volt relay # HRM-4102 is a five terminal six volt Autolite relay.

Wiring diagrams are online.

>>>>>>System will only work using six volts.

Be careful rewiring this M-5 transmission...do it exactly as the wiring diagram is shown for all  1946-48 chryslers.

 

 

 

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How thorough was the so called 12v conversion? Is anything still on 6v? If so, wire the ignition to 6v and use 6v for the trans control system and set it up as the factory intended. If possible change the whole car back to 6v. As you are finding out, 12v conversions on these cars cause more problems than they solve. Or, go back to the "genius" that did the 12v and ask him how to make the trans work. Be ready for a stunned  look and even more stunned answer.

Or take a center tap off the 12v battery for 6v.

Edited by Rusty_OToole (see edit history)
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I think I will go back to the original 6volts, I will put the generator, the coil and all the light bulbs back, I prefer to have a trans in working order than great illuminating lights

anyway I will need your help to understand where to connect each part.  By the way, what about the relay that is missing?

thanks

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Your headlights should be just as bright on 6v provided you have proper 6v sealed beams. If not, your wiring needs attention. For best performance you can wire the headlights through a relay with a heavy wire direct to the battery, energized by the stock wiring. You may still be able to buy 6v quartz halogen light bulbs if you want real bright headlights. I don't look in the headlight beams I look past them, you see a lot more especially on moonlight nights.

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