KDirk Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 For the sake of clarity, any chance we can have a moderator split this off into a new thread starting with Airmasters first post?With the problems listed, I'd suggest verifying the power supplied to both the cluster and CRT with a volt meter. Unusual to find both out though the CRT is clearly responsive just has no video showing so it probably has a failed high voltage section in the CRT unt itself which is a common point of failure.Provided the wiring isn't too damaged from moisture, $500 for a complete running car is still a heck of a deal and is worth getting back together.KDirk Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AIRMASTER Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 K DIRK,,i have done control wiring for over 40 years [yes i am old] but without a diagram to show where power and how much power is at the plug i am at a loss. 12vdc shows up at one pin but not at others and 5vdc shows up on other pins.I need a diagram of what pins have power and how much and which pins [from the cluster]go to the crt as output from the cluster for information etc. I am tracing wires right to the back of the fuse block to insure that even if the fuses are good is the power actually connected physically to the load side. I just hope i can put all this stuff back together. Yes i agree that $500 is a good deal if it doesn't cost me another $2000 to get everything done. Sorry about the "thread thing" . I need to get that 1990 Reatta thing straightened out because it is a 1989. thanks Jerry.NH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) Jerry,What you need now is access to the Factory Service Manual (FSM).There is an online downloadable version located at Reatta.net.You will have to register to access the manuals. To do this, look to the left of the page. There you'll see a list of options. Click on the word *Documentation*. then scroll down to the bottom of the page and enter the required information then click *submit*.It could be a day or it could be two weeks before you receive the login info. but, it will be the best two minutes you've ever spent due to the wealth of information available.John F. Edited April 11, 2014 by Machiner 55 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KDirk Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 (edited) Jerry,No problem there. Hopefully a moderator can split your posting off into its own thread so the ongoing discussion on your problems will be easier to follow.As far as troubleshooting goes, you definately need the service manual. The online copy at Reatta.net is great (it's free after all) but I cannot overstate enouh the need for a printed copy. The factory manuals show up routinely on ebay and I'd recommend buying one for the year of your car (1989 if I understand correctly). It will save you much aggravation in chasing down problems. One can usually be had for under $70 and is worth every penny in my opinion. Without it you will get frustrated, no doubt.I do think you have a bad CRT based upon the described symptoms (touchscreen responds but has no picture), cannot say if your cluster is bad or not without more data. Rest assured, there is a dedicated group of helpful people on this forum who will do what they can to help out. Try to tackle the core problems first: the cluster and CRT, the latter especially since it will give you access to onboard diagnostics to help you solve other problems From there, things get a bit easier. It sounds like you have some professional background that will be helpful to you as well, so that is in your favor.KDirk Edited April 11, 2014 by KDirk (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest AIRMASTER Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 A day or two weeks! If i don't have this wiring fixed in another 2 days i plan on breaking it's leg and shooting it! I'll fill out the form but won't wait that long.thanks for the info,and your time. Jerry, NH Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted April 11, 2014 Share Posted April 11, 2014 Jerry,There's a bookseller in Mass. that has a FSM listed on Ebay for $119.00. Here's the link. Looking at google maps and with you saying that you're just across the border, I'm thinking you could take a little drive down there and pick it up and save the $6.95 shipping. A bit late for that today but they are open Mon.-Fri. 10am-6pm.Johnson's Auto Literature 92 Blandin Ave.Framingham, MA 01702John F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james38340 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 I know this is an older thread but was hoping someone could help me. The CR5 location has what I think is a diode but I am not sure. I was hoping someone could help me to identify it and hopefully know its part number as mine is busted and needs replaced. I am new to this forum but it has a great deal of knowledge with you guys and I thank you all for your time. If you need a picture of it I can provide it but warren has it in his picture just 2 components up from CR1 he pulled. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james38340 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 On 4/29/2010 at 8:45 PM, bwarren said: This is what I have so far. Bad display has no illumination at all. Not the 00 ERROR symptom. Side by side comparisons with a bad display and a good display. Probing circuit until an abnormality is found and removing the questionable components from each unit and testing out of circuit. Continued to fallow traces and removing those components displaying a measured difference until all circuit probing is equal between the 2 units. All defective and questionable parts were found on the middle PCB. CR1 (diode) shorted. I suspect this may have been the component that caused the cascading affect. Next C1 and C2 are questionable. My capacitor tester is not of great quality, but tends to be accurate when values are spot on. Q4, Q5 questionable. Q6, Q7 were visibly damages by heat. I suspect there was some smoke involved as the circuit board itself has some thermal damage. C23 sits next to Q6/Q7, was visibly swollen and makes a physical connection to Q6/Q7. Its value is way off. Obviously having the proper equipment would be beneficial. My only tool is a substandard DVM that has the ability to test transistors and capacitors. I have tried to label the components and indicate the makings. As we have surmised, tracing the numbers is proving to be difficult. The component is just up from the CR1 diode and it is a rounded looking diode I think and I can see 3 of the numbers on it I believe the last three digits are 938 it looks to me. I will attach a picture of it but may need to zoom in. It is in the picture its grayish and rounded almost like its puffed up but it is actually normal. Does anyone know what this is and a part number please? Location CR5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james38340 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Thank you guys for your help! I am new so please take it easy on me and I have not been on a forum before. Thanks James McDaniel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james38340 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Here is a picture of it in the car and its MPH is not working and Error is above the trip. Any ideas of what may be wrong is greatly appreciated. Thanks James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james38340 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 7 hours ago, james38340 said: The component is just up from the CR1 diode and it is a rounded looking diode I think and I can see 3 of the numbers on it I believe the last three digits are 938 it looks to me. I will attach a picture of it but may need to zoom in. It is in the picture its grayish and rounded almost like its puffed up but it is actually normal. Does anyone know what this is and a part number please? Location CR5 Bump for any of you experienced guys that might can help me identify this component and its part number? CR5 Location on board. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DAVES89 Posted August 10, 2020 Share Posted August 10, 2020 Kdirk a guy that was real good at anything electrical no longer comes around. But here was the issue he told me long ago. GM uses it's own specs and part numbers and everything is propiatory and not for public use. There are vendors located at the top of this Reatta Forum page that you may want to check out. I have never used any of them as I am a junker and get my stuff from salvage yards. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james38340 Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Thank you Dave89 I will try to find one but so far I have had no luck. I have got all the components thus far but that one in location CR5 and I really do not know what it is. I believe it is some type of rectifier diode but not sure. I really appreciate you letting me know about the parts on the page top and I will look into it. Thanks again sir! James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 On the circuit board it looks like all the component labels that begin with the letters CR are diodes. Wouldn't it stand to reason that CR5 is a diode as well? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 I'd agree that CR-diode (crystal ?) and could be replaced with 1N4004s. Not sure about CR-1, might be a zener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
james38340 Posted August 11, 2020 Share Posted August 11, 2020 Thank you guys yes that makes sense the it is a diode when labeled as CR. Would anyone know of what can be used in that location CR5. It is shaped oddly and I only see a few of the numbers on it. Is there anyway I can find out what its part number is? Thanks fellows. James Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChrisWhewell Posted October 7, 2020 Share Posted October 7, 2020 On 8/11/2020 at 8:34 AM, padgett said: I'd agree that CR-diode (crystal ?) and could be replaced with 1N4004s. Not sure about CR-1, might be a zener. Ja, CR = crystal rectifier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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