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What would you do???


g-g-g0

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I have a '57 364 that I just tore down and the cylinders are about .05 over at the bottom and .015 at the top. This engine is going back into a driver. Should I put a bunch of money in the engine and have it bored, new pistions and etc?

I was hoping to just put in new rings and bearings and put it back together and drive it. The machine shop wants to re-do it by boring and every thing as new. Can I get by on the cheap and not get into a lot of grief?

Gary

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I don't know the engineering answer but I suspect you can figure this out by asking yourself how you felt about the engine before you tore it down. Did you have enough power before the tear down? How about oil burning? knocking? blowby oil leaks?

It would seem if you did not bore it out you'd have all the same issues after the rebuild as before.

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That's part of the problem. I have never heard the engine run. It had been setting for a number of years (was not stuck) so I do not have the answers. I am just trying to justify in my mind spending $3500 on a motor that is going in a solid (Texas car) driver that needs paint. Soon have more in it than it's worth!

Thanks for your thoughts.

Gary

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.....Soon have more in it than it's worth!

Gary

Sorry Gary, but that how all projects end up. About the engine, that one should be rebuilt. Usually the upper limit on wear on the cylinders for a 'ring and bearing' job is 0.006". I did a 322 that had 0.012" and it was satisfactory but noisy and the oil got dirty quickly. If you do rebuild with that much wear us moly rings...they will conform to the cylinders and tolerate that much taper. Also you will need to use a heavier oil.

Willie

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Maybe a real stupid suggestion but what about hunting around for a better block?? I have to agree with everyone so far, either do it right or don't do it at all, I don't know engineering specs on this one either but it seems to me being too big on the top means, blow by and possible oil consumption problem. 3500 does seem a bit steep but I have not done any engine work for a long time.

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If you set the ring gap at the tightest part of the bore, then the rings would be moving in and out of their respective ring grooves in the pistons . . . constantly, if not wobbling a little in the process, too. Not the best environment for them.

BEFORE y'all get all excited about boring the block, FIND PISTONS FIRST! Now that you know what the "wear" is, you can figure how much boring it'll take to get to a correct-shaped bore again.

Finding a "better block"? That's something you'll not know until you tear one down to see. As they'll all be "used", even the low-mileage ones will have some cylinder wall rust that you'll have to cut past to get to "fresh" metal anyway. In other words, lots of time and effort for very little gain . . . IF ANY. What might have been "good" when it was parked could very well not be quite so good now.

You might check on the Silvolite website for pistons. I haven't looked in there recently to see what's in their online catalog, so you might have (or end up with) a friend at an older auto supply, with paper books from piston vendors, if you can find a part number, perhaps they can do a national search (might take a little time) for pistons of the size you might need, or a little larger over-bore.

Worst case scenario . . . sleeves installed using your existing pistons with new rings.

Just some thoughts,

NTX5467

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I had the same dilemma.....

I had a rod bearing spin on me. :mad:

3945989602_d880c0c26f.jpg

3945206909_d37bffc9e0.jpg

Ok so the tops on these '54 322s are the weak point but the bottoms bullet prof...yea right. I guess an oil gallery got plugged.

Anyways all good, was going to do a ring job anyways and rebuild the heads. The first thing my shop asked me was:

Do you want a 30-60K engine or do you want a 100+K engine

The K for you Yanks means Kilometres...;)

In my opinion if you are going to keep this car and use it as a reliable driver...spend the money and just bore it out and rebuild it. At least get an opinion from a reputable shop. I am going the full route with a full deck mill and line bores. Then boring next size up and replacing everything all the while balancing and polishing everything.. This is the one and only time I want to mess with this engine.

Just one option for the parts...

Kanter Auto - Product Detail

I guess you have to ask yourself....How much does it cost to give that piece on mind knowing that you have a solid engine under that hood when you drive it on long trips.

Edited by stealthbob (see edit history)
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  • 2 weeks later...
Guest 40series

too bad you are so far away. I have a 364 in a 60 lesabre that runs like a sewing machine. I would sell it for 800.00. Of course you could spend the 2700.00 on one heck of a road trip out west to get it!

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