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Adam4t

1959 Chevrolet Viking 60

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Thank you for the links, John. When I know exactly what I need I'll be sure to check them out. As long as the parts would be the same for any other Chevrolet truck of the same year, I think I'll be able to find everything I need.

I'm going to look around our auto shops, as soon as I have a way to get there being I can't drive. A family friend owns an auto body shop so I think he can be a good help.

I didn't do anything today, it's even windier than yesterday. I did go out there, and sorry I didn't take any pictures of inside the cab. A lot of the wires aren't connected, an example would be for the low-lights. The wire feeding down to the light is just hanging there.... and for the horn, I didn't see it connected to the cab. I'll take pictures hopefully tomorrow or if not for sure during Spring Break, it's supposed to be raining and windy tomorrow and Thursday so I'm not in much a suitable environment to work during this weather. There's one bolt that I cannot get out. A piece of the fender is like peeling so I couldn't get the ratchet around it, and when I tried with a crescent wrench it bent the wrench.... and I like soaked the thing in ChemTool. I think I'll just try smashing the peeling part in just so I can get the ratchet head around it. If neither works I'll have to like cut it out I guess, which I really wouldn't want to do. Again, I promise I'll take pictures soon.

Also, again for the parts, we have an antique automobile shop too. The typically work on older cars and trucks so maybe I can go there to ask for parts... Again, there are a lot of places where I can also just salvage through trucks for what I need. To be honest I'm not quite sure where the generator connects to. From the picture on the E-Bay auction, I didn't see any wires or slots... hmm. But I did see where it bolts onto the bracket in the engine bay. Now as I keep going, I realize taking anything off is a bad idea... I should just focus on all engine stuff, know what electrical wires will need to be replaced or added, then I can take off the fenders and doors so I can get the wires ran through and what-not.

Thanks for all the help again.

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Edited by Adam4t (see edit history)

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Well I asked my dad about the truck--just out of curiousity. He said it's a split transmission so, I'm not sure which one, of the levers is the high-low and kicks it from 1-4 to 4-8. I thought that was interesting. I have more pictures! I'm waiting for them to upload, I'll use the above post and this one to put 'em all in here.

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Uhmm service engine lights come on a lot, so much that people totally ignore them with a piece of duct tape.... Uhmm he may have altered with the wires when installing the headlights but I honestly couldn't tell you.

...

I havn't had time to work yet, just got home last night from Easter with family, and all today I was doing FFA stuff and tomorrow we're gong to the foothills.... I really hope Thursday or Friday for sure I'll be working, I need to weld teeth back on the right hood hinge which is put off until we have more Co2 for the MIG welder.

Edited by Adam4t (see edit history)

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Would it even be worth it to buy a generator, or should I just make new brakets and buy an alternator for it? Because just from what I've heard, the generators overcharge the battery and then they just barely put out so I don't want to waste the $50+ on the generator if it's not going to last.

Oh, and the deal on top of the dash is like a parking break for when operating the winch. Well, the brakes never worked so I guess it WOULD be for that. The little throttle-type deal by the steering wheel is for the winch also, it's just to make it roll up or unwind faster, sort of like putting a forklift in neutral and accelerating.

Edited by Adam4t
added more. (see edit history)

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Would it even be worth it to buy a generator, or should I just make new brakets and buy an alternator for it? Because just from what I've heard, the generators overcharge the battery and then they just barely put out so I don't want to waste the $50+ on the generator if it's not going to last.

Oh, and the deal on top of the dash is like a parking break for when operating the winch. Well, the brakes never worked so I guess it WOULD be for that. The little throttle-type deal by the steering wheel is for the winch also, it's just to make it roll up or unwind faster, sort of like putting a forklift in neutral and accelerating.

Adam, a properly functioning generator and voltage regulator will keep your battery charged just fine. The biggest advantage to alternator over generator is that an alternator DOES charge at idle, whereas most generators put out very little at idle speed. I expect your truck had a 35 amp generator factory installed. Out there in farm country with older tractors still running there'll be someone who understands generator charging systems and can rebuild them.

You shouldn't have to make any brackets if you change over to alternator. Find a similar engine from a 1963 or later truck and it will have alternator brackets.

If the hydraulic system is in good condition, that truck should have had good brakes. The Mico Brake was a safety device for when the truck was parked and working. I think they're still made; there's reference to them in our corporate safety manual for line and service trucks.

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Well I'm sure my dad can show me about generator because I know next to nothing about them compared to alternators. I guess the generator would work because I don't really plan on setting in idle unless it hadn't been started in a while to let it warm up, and I don't want the battery to blow up on me. I just don,t want to spend the money on a generator thats not going to last a while. I want to try operating the winch since my grandpa said it's probably the only thing that works on that truck. I need to get a generator first thing then a battery for precautions. Well I'll see this weekend hopefully if I don't go to a dairy show in Merced I'll get the fenders off if I still have time.. otherwise everythings going to wait for another week or two. I mostly just need the money to get what I need right now. It'll all be done in good time, hopefully.

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I guess I wasn't the only one with this particular model truck that had brake problems? After looking a bit.

Re: 1958 Chevrolet Viking C60

And by the looks of it, this guy did a great job, whoever he may be! Even though his is a 40 series rather than 60 series.

Brian Egan's 1958 Chevy Viking 4100 with a 1956 Manley Wrecker -- To the frame old truck restoration

I'm rather jealous haha. Especially since I don't have the equipment to completely dismantle this thing down to the chassis.

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Well, I posted this in the Big Bolts section of Stovebolt, so far I've gotten one response. I'll post a link and quote what he said.

1958 Chevrolet Viking 60 Series. - The Stovebolt Forums

Welcome to the Big Bolt Group!

I don't see that anyone decoded your vin number for you so I will...

6B59O104699

6B = 6400 Series (156.5" wheelbase)

59 = 1959

O = Oakland Assembly Plant

104699 = Unit number from Oakland Plant starting with 100001

Looks like your 1958 is really a 1959...

Your truck should have the 261 cu. in, 6 cyl motor with the SM-420 transmission.

If you have 20" tires, DO NOT PUT AIR IN THEM until you have identified what type of rim you have. If they are two-piece with the center lock band they are dangerous. If they are 3-piece they can be services, put find someone that has experience with truck tires check them first. Many people have been killed by the old rusty rims flying apart when they are aired up. Just be safe.

Mike B

So.... It's a 59. Boy do I feel stupid haha.

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Ha, Adam- making any progress? Hopefully you're putting that parts book to good use...

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Sorry for the very late reply I've been really busy with work since summer started.

I am putting it to the best work possible until I have some money. I have everything I will most likely need marked and have a list as well just incase. I will be replacing both fenders because the reason the doors open into them is because the bottoms of each are rusted away so they stick out and its a difficult fix. And I will probably be replacing the cab depending how difficult it will be to fix the hang-over... which may not be that hard so long as I can bend the metal correctly.

-Adam

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