1959 Chevrolet Viking 60

[Guest Adam4t]

Okay, well I have my new project. I know my dad won't be happy that I want to fix this up because it's a p.o.s.... Never had brakes, he said it was the same p.o.s. when they bought it 40 years ago, it was used for dropping duck blinds, hasn't been registered since 1963.

I don't have the VIN number, because I cannot find it. If anybody could help, it would be appreciated. It's going to cost me an arm and a leg to get what I need for this vehicle, and years just to find the right parts if I go completely all out. It doesn't need much. It needs a battery and a little gas in the carberator to start, but to work it's going to need brakes, a clutch cable, a new gas peddle (the base is there just no plate) and I don't want to spend TOO much money, as in instead of buying new doors I'm just going to fitted metal and grind it smooth, after I paint it nobody would know it's there except for me. I have a ton of pictures, and I will be posting more. I know I won't be updating this everyday because I won't have the time to work on it every day, hopefully atleast 3 times a week. I don't have a shop I can park it in so I'm going to be using a pole barn for now... I'm going to buck the hay off to the side and hopefully drag it in with a tractor. Here are some pictures, HELP IS VERY MUCH APPRECIATED! I can't find anything for this truck, so finding brakes or anything will be a pain for me. The hood hinges are broken... from the view from sitting inside the truck, the left hinge isn't bolted on, and the right hinge is bolted on, but the piece of metal that runs across the back of the hood is rusted off the hinge, so it'll close the same but it will be more akward, like closing a broken barbeque lid. Okay, well here are some pictures:

Edited April 20, 2010 by Adam4t (see edit history)

[Guest Adam4t]

I will post updates and more pictures here when necessary.

[TexRiv_63]

Adam,

You are a brave man, that looks like a big project. But much worse has been attempted and completed by many, Good Luck and keep us posted.

[unimogjohn]

Adam, good luck. Looks to be a bit of work. I have just one word of advice, "finish what you start". What I mean by that is to do bits at a time, complete the work, and then move on to the next bit. Nothing worse than taking everything apart, and then giving up. You will need successes to keep going, so then by going little by little, every bit will be a success. I think you will be surprised by your progress.

Keep us posted.

[rocketraider]

Adam, that's a big project for a young guy, but I appreciate you trying to save an old workhorse. A restored old truck or commercial vehicle always draws a crowd at shows.

I don't know how much sheetmetal difference there is between say a 10/20 series truck vs a 50/60 series, but it shouldn't be that hard to find cab parts thru some of the Chevy truck vendors.

I wouldn't think chassis parts would be that bad to find either since the heavy trucks were the same for years, but then again I've never tried to find them.

There should be a metal plate with the VIN in the left door jamb, and another plate with the body and mechanical data mounted on the left kick panel area.

Just curious what the truck was used for? can't tell much about that boom on the back.

And always remember- restorations sometimes take years, and sometimes a vehicle will sit for a while till its owner builds up enough money, time, or initiative to start work on it again.

Best of luck.

[pacerman]

I know folks on this site (including me) will appreciate the updates but you should also access the stovebolt site at The Stovebolt Page -- For Old GM - GMC - Chevy Trucks!. That's pre-1972 Chevy truck specialty site and they love to see big bolt projects like yours. There are lots of helpful guys there too. Joe

[Guest Adam4t]

I will check out that website after this post. I didn't get much chance to do anything today because I got home late and it's too windy of weather to enjoy doing work. All I really checked was if there was a Master Cylinder, which there isn't. So I need the WHOLE brake system... That's going to cost a chunk of change. Really, being that this truck will more than likely start with a battery, I'm only doing body work, so I guess it'll be good practice. I just want to start with the front and work my way back to the last tool box at the back.

and rocketraider, that truck was used for dropping duck blinds, which is what the boom is for. Eventually when I get it started I'll check and see if that wench still works. I looked as best I could in the door jamb, but the door opens against the fender so I couldn't get inside without risking denting the fender, and i could climbe through the window but to be honest all the hornets don't please me whatsoever. , but I have no idea why it opens like that, I can't see a broken hinge or anything. Any idea on that would be helpful as well. This friday my friend should be coming out and we're going to dismantle the hood, weld the hinge support back on, and clean up the engine. I wouldn't say it much as a project truck as a strictly body work truck, meaning I don't think it'll take as long to finish since I won't be looking all over for engine parts. I know it'll take a while to get brakes but as long as it starts without brakes they aren't Number One Priority. I just want to get everything done, then maybe in a couple years when I save up enough for a quality paint job I'm going to paint it original color, and I'll keep original interior color, which looks as though it's a medium blue, couldn't describe it but it's around the same color, perhaps a shade darker, than the dash on my Buick.

Thanks again for all the support!

Edited March 25, 2010 by Adam4t
added more information. (see edit history)

[unimogjohn]

Adam, making brake lines and the installation of the master cylinder are all that not difficult and not that expensive. You should be able to get a rebuilt master and lines to bend for under $200. You can rent a good bender and flaring tool at your local auto part big box store. Also you will need the four rubber flex lines.

I think that your first job would be to pull it to a place where you will be able to assess what you have, have some protection from the sun/rain, and lots of room to move around and under the truck. Make sure you take plenty of pics for reference.

You might consider posting what you plan to do, post it, and wait a day for suggestions. I am sure you will get lots of suggestions and help, probably more than you want.

[Guest Adam4t]

I don't have much to put it under but I have a pole barn that I bucked all the hay off to the side, enough room for about 20 feet infront of it and 20 feet behind it... and about 10 feet on either side. I'll pull it in tomorrow or Sunday, depending on the weather.

I FOUND THE VIN! If someone could help decode this for me, that'd be great!

6B590104699

I'm pretty sure that's what it is, I entered it into a website but it says it couldn't decode it... it looked clear as crystal, the numbers did, but it said it couldn't decode it nonetheless....

EDIT: I know that Pre-1981 vehicles have 10 digit Serial Codes but that's what I read on the plate.... But I read on the internet it said that I can't get anything from the VIN? Because if that's so then I guess it doesn't really have any use to me.

Edited March 26, 2010 by Adam4t
EDIT (see edit history)

[Guest Adam4t]

Didn't even have a chance to do anything today. Far too tired and got home too late. Apparently, the truck weighs 8 tons.... Or, it can hold up to 8 tons, I didn't really have a chance to read it when I was looking at the VIN I saw 16,000 lbs but I couldn't really read the rest because it was getting dark... If it really weighs that much, I'm not sure how I'm going to pull it because the old Ford... I'm not sure how much it can take and any of the bigger Case's are too big to fit between the hay stacks and the supports in the Pole Barn... I'm sure the Ford could pull it, neutral is neutral and it's going to roll, but on a couple flat tires. Hopefully I'll have time to work Sunday, Saturday I'm doing something for FFA then Sunday if it's not a total mess of wind I'm taking off the hood, hopefully welding the bracket on the back, and bolting it back on the hinges.... it looks as if the bolt just came out of the hole on the left side, one end of the hinge is bolted in and the back end is not, and the hole seems to look worn and bigger, so I'd have to weld a plate over the hole, and drill a new hole. Probably going to replace the bolts too, but actually won't be necessary but if I have 4 extra bolts and nuts I'm just going to. I'm still just saving up for a battery, hopefully my dad can spot me 30 bucks but he's still not too keen on me wanting to restore the truck. :[

I'll try to take a lot of pictures, but I'm stuck just using my phone because I personally don't have a camera and my mom doesn't want me to break hers. The pictures will be the same quality as my above posted ones.

Again, if anybody can decode that VIN it'd be great, if not I'm going to re-check it to make sure it's correct, because it's odd that it has 11 characters. Again, I'll do the best I can reading everything.

-Adam

[unimogjohn]

Adam, the number is the load weight. I would imagine that the truck weighs between three to four tons, and really depends on how heavy the box is.

[rocketraider]

Adam, you should see two weight ratings on the data plate. EVW (empty vehicle weight, sometimes called tare weight) which is truck with body attached and GVW (gross vehicle weight) which is the maximum weight of truck and load combined.

So, assuming an EVW of 5-6000 lbs, with a 16000 GVW your Viking is technically capable of toting 5 or 6 tons on its back.

Back in those years the VIN will tell you year of manufacture, body style and chassis series, assembly plant, and sequential serial number. The body data plate tells you original outside and interior colors, special equipment the factory installed at the body plant, and sometimes axle ratio and transmission. Internet is a great resource, but there's a lot of misinformation and outright BS out there.

You'll find out parents often look at things differently than their kids. Right now all your dad sees is an old worn-out farm truck and a money pit, where you see a 1958 Chevy heavy truck restored to what it looked like new at the dealer. Get it restored and then put your farm's name and logo on the doors and see if his tune don't change a bit :cool:.

Believe me when I say there are far worse things a teenager could get into than restoring an old farm truck or tractor. It will teach you: fabrication and mechanical skills, resourcefulness in locating the parts needed, and patience. Not to mention setting schedules, priorities and goals.

One of the antique shops here had some late 50s Chevy parts books and manuals a while back. Next time I go in I'll see if they still have them and if they cover the heavy trucks.

Edited March 27, 2010 by rocketraider (see edit history)

[Rusty_OToole]

If it's GVW (Gross Vehicle Weight) that is total permissible weight of the truck, cargo, driver, passengers, fuel, everything.

[Guest Adam4t]

Yes, it is the GVW weight, I checked more because it was more readable. VIN hasn't changed, so I'm confused how I'm supposed to decode it. I got quite a bit done today.... Well, actually now that I think about it and that I put 5 hours of time in it, I've done nothing. :] I removed the hood, welded the bracket back on, but I need to get just a 2" by 8" piece of steel to weld over the bolt holes on the left side because both bolts completely wore through the bracket. After removing the hood and actually being able to see inside, I now know there is no Altinator, so I need to get an altinator before I try starting it.... It's so confusing, this truck as so many bells and whistles I'd drive myself crazy figuring everything out, of course after removing EVERYTHING just to see which cable goes where. After closely examining under the truck, there are brakes. The Brake Fluid cap is located under the floorboard (well, theres a hole cut out to get to it) so that was a plus. I pulled out all of the tool drawers, and tomorrow I'm going to clean them out and weld the bracket back to the bottom of one of them.

Ooo it is definately a piece of work. The thing is, I don't want to go salvage for body parts because I honestly don't want to have to look for a cab because the hang-off of the roof is rusted away, so I'm either going to need to learn how to work with steel A LOT better, or shell out money and time looking for new everything... The chrome light deals (what hold the headlights in) has rusted a bit... so I'd have to order two new ones, because one is missing. I'm almost overwhelmed just thinking about it so I just need to calm down and focus on what I need to do bit by bit. I was in the middle of unbolting the left fender, but my parents left to a silent auction so I'm home watching the kids (I guess I'm not doing a very good job. ) and I didn't get to finish unbolting it. My buddy came out so he was a big help, we moved two big bales of hay, flake by flake because they were just too heavy haha. I'd say, by the look of the truck, it has to way 2 ton... I mean, if a '65 Buick weighs that much, it has to... but to be honest, nothing is heavy. The hood's lighter than light, and the doors aren't heavy either. Speaking of which, the reason the doors opened against the fender is because their misaligned, so after I get the fender off I'll remove the doors. I really just need to get some steel because while the doors are off I want to weld over the holes and grind it smooth. The only thing I know won't be weldable for me is the steel trim around the doors, just pieces are missing but I can't fix that myself.

It's DEFINATELY an interesting piece of equipment. And rocketraider, you completely read my mind. From the start I knew how I was going to paint it. I'm painting it the farm colors and then either the farm name or the name of the Duck Club, depending on how much sentimental value I want in this... say if it were actually show-condition I'd probably put the duck club name. :] And that's what excites me so much. I'd love to see the look on my grandparents eyes when they see it all said and done. I know it'll take a while, but I know I've got part of my summer when I'm not working on the farm, and hopefully every moment I'm not working on the farm I'm doing something on that truck. If I'm putting time into it, I'm putting a LOT of time.

The thing is, I'm going to end up removing everything (doors, fenders, etc) then putting them back on, then removing them again when I sandblast it and wire-wheel it. I'm trying to keep everything original, so I'm not going to be changing the chasis, engine, anything. Right now I just need an altinator, probably a solenoid, and a battery.

Funny thing, the solenoid was missing from the engine, so I was like "well shoot, that's a chunk of change in itself" but oddly, the solenoid was in a type of hitch deal underneath the boom. Odds are, it doesn't work. But if it does, that'll save me a couple hundred bucks. Luckily I don't need anything special for the altinator, I'll probably salvage through a scapyard for one and just take it apart and clean it. I'm going to need 6 new tires as well.... Which, obviously, isn't cheap either. In what I NEED, I know I'm going to be spending a few grand, hopefully maxxing 4. With what I WANT, as in sandblasting and a good paintjob, I'm going to end up with about 7 grand from just painting and sandblasting. So 11 grand.... Well, I could buy a truck cheaper but this is great.

I need 6 new windows, probably. I couldn't roll the side windows up, but odds are there is moisture inside them as they are double-pane windows. So I'll have to replace the corners, the windshield, and the back window. Then the only way to check the door windows is taking the door apart... I just know I'm going to need a lot of support... Mostly because for one, being under 16, I can't drive anywhere to pick up parts I may need, and since my dad doesn't want me fixing it up anyways, I am limited to how long it takes for me to get what I need, even if it's just here in town.

I took a few pictures, but not as many as I probably should have, as I said I'm only taking pictures with my phone.

[unimogjohn]

Adam, just a couple of things. You probably need a generator not an alternator. Here is an example,

GENERATOR GM~CHEVY TRUCK 56',57',58',59',60',61,'62 12V : eBay Motors (item 190383223875 end time Mar-30-10 13:10:30 PDT)

Do you still have the bracket in place on the engine that holds the generator to the engine? Take a couple of more pictures of the engine bay and post them so we can help.

I would get a repair manual too, you will need it. They are on ebay all the time. Even a universal repair manual would be better than nothing.

Take a deep breath, and just do a bit at a time.

[Guest Adam4t]

The mounts still there, I believe, if that's what it's for. It fits onto the right side of the engine, probably about mid-height of the fan. As soon as some of these pictures upload I'll show you. A couple that I took today are attatched here.

On the first picture of the engine, on the bottom somehwat right is a bracket that I'm assuming the generator would attatch to. To be honest I don't know much about this thing, today is kind of a first look under the hood. I'll take more tomorrow.

Edited March 28, 2010 by Adam4t
More info. (see edit history)

[unimogjohn]

Adam, here is a manual for not much money. Lots more on ebay. Just do a search on your year, make, model.

CHEVROLET TRUCK CAR SHOP MANUAL 1958 GMC : eBay Motors (item 190383212020 end time Mar-30-10 12:36:35 PDT)

[Guest Adam4t]

I'll be sure to order one soon. Thanks for the help.

[Ben Bruce aka First Born]

Hang in there, Adam. And don't be afraid to ask questions. A lot of the cab parts for your truck may be the same as the pickups from those years. And that body style was made for several years.

Good luck

Ben

[Guest Adam4t]

Yeah but a lot of the extra stuff has got to be connected to the boom somehow. I'll take pictures later, but it's hard to know because the gauges are dirty and rusted.

Oh, and how do I check the metal gage? Because in order to fix the rusted holes I need sheet metal with the right gage.

[TexRiv_63]

Adam,

I love the picture of the engine bay, looks like you could stand on either side inside the bay and not touch the engine! Plenty of room to work, ahh the good old days...

[Guest Adam4t]

Adam,

I love the picture of the engine bay, looks like you could stand on either side inside the bay and not touch the engine! Plenty of room to work, ahh the good old days...

Yeah that's what I was doing yesterday I was standing on the chassis and sitting on the top of the fender. :] Lots of workspace.

I NEED OPINIONS! For repairing rust holes, should I go with the puddy-type stuff, or should I get a sheet of metal and cut into it as I need? The one part I know for sure the puddy won't fix is the hangover piece on the top of the cab. Although then, I need to get a micrometer or whatsitcalled to check the metal gage, and then order probably a 10x10 sheet, but I'm still not so sure how much the puddy costs. Any tips on what I should do?

.. I didn't do anything today, too windy weather.

EDIT: Also, should I just order the Generator? Or should I get a manual first?

Edited March 30, 2010 by Adam4t (see edit history)

[unimogjohn]

Adam, I would get the manual first, and also see if you can find a parts manual also. You should be able to get the generator locally at your favorite auto parts store. Call around and see what you find. An older place rather than a chain store usually knows where to get the older stuff.

If it was me, I would concentrate on getting here all cleaned up before I decided to do anything. This is so I can figure out in total what needs to be done, and to get familiar with the car/truck.

I use JB weld and puddy type bars for small holes, like the size of a pencil, anything other than that I weld in a plug. I also paint all my floor board and anything else that will rust with Eastwood rust encapsulator paint. This stops all further rust and provides a hard coating to the metal. Not cheap, about 17 to 23 dollars a pint. Others use POR15 paint.

[Guest Adam4t]

Well, I can't really afford paint like that. I'll order a parts manual today. For the generator, you think I can find it anywhere? I didn't know it was one of the everyday parts.

[unimogjohn]

Adam, before you buy anything online just drop by your local autoparts shop, and ask them about parts for your truck. For fun you can also look at RockAuto Auto Parts to see what they have. They are usually very competitive in price and carry many of the parts you may need. But, they do not have a generator listed.

Also LMC may have some parts also. LMC Truck Parts - Page 1

[Guest Adam4t]

Thank you for the links, John. When I know exactly what I need I'll be sure to check them out. As long as the parts would be the same for any other Chevrolet truck of the same year, I think I'll be able to find everything I need.

I'm going to look around our auto shops, as soon as I have a way to get there being I can't drive. A family friend owns an auto body shop so I think he can be a good help.

I didn't do anything today, it's even windier than yesterday. I did go out there, and sorry I didn't take any pictures of inside the cab. A lot of the wires aren't connected, an example would be for the low-lights. The wire feeding down to the light is just hanging there.... and for the horn, I didn't see it connected to the cab. I'll take pictures hopefully tomorrow or if not for sure during Spring Break, it's supposed to be raining and windy tomorrow and Thursday so I'm not in much a suitable environment to work during this weather. There's one bolt that I cannot get out. A piece of the fender is like peeling so I couldn't get the ratchet around it, and when I tried with a crescent wrench it bent the wrench.... and I like soaked the thing in ChemTool. I think I'll just try smashing the peeling part in just so I can get the ratchet head around it. If neither works I'll have to like cut it out I guess, which I really wouldn't want to do. Again, I promise I'll take pictures soon.

Also, again for the parts, we have an antique automobile shop too. The typically work on older cars and trucks so maybe I can go there to ask for parts... Again, there are a lot of places where I can also just salvage through trucks for what I need. To be honest I'm not quite sure where the generator connects to. From the picture on the E-Bay auction, I didn't see any wires or slots... hmm. But I did see where it bolts onto the bracket in the engine bay. Now as I keep going, I realize taking anything off is a bad idea... I should just focus on all engine stuff, know what electrical wires will need to be replaced or added, then I can take off the fenders and doors so I can get the wires ran through and what-not.

Thanks for all the help again.

Edited April 2, 2010 by Adam4t (see edit history)

[Guest Adam4t]

Well I asked my dad about the truck--just out of curiousity. He said it's a split transmission so, I'm not sure which one, of the levers is the high-low and kicks it from 1-4 to 4-8. I thought that was interesting. I have more pictures! I'm waiting for them to upload, I'll use the above post and this one to put 'em all in here.

[Guest Adam4t]

Uhmm service engine lights come on a lot, so much that people totally ignore them with a piece of duct tape.... Uhmm he may have altered with the wires when installing the headlights but I honestly couldn't tell you.

...

I havn't had time to work yet, just got home last night from Easter with family, and all today I was doing FFA stuff and tomorrow we're gong to the foothills.... I really hope Thursday or Friday for sure I'll be working, I need to weld teeth back on the right hood hinge which is put off until we have more Co2 for the MIG welder.

Edited April 14, 2010 by Adam4t (see edit history)

[Guest Adam4t]

Would it even be worth it to buy a generator, or should I just make new brakets and buy an alternator for it? Because just from what I've heard, the generators overcharge the battery and then they just barely put out so I don't want to waste the $50+ on the generator if it's not going to last.

Oh, and the deal on top of the dash is like a parking break for when operating the winch. Well, the brakes never worked so I guess it WOULD be for that. The little throttle-type deal by the steering wheel is for the winch also, it's just to make it roll up or unwind faster, sort of like putting a forklift in neutral and accelerating.

Edited April 14, 2010 by Adam4t
added more. (see edit history)

[rocketraider]

Would it even be worth it to buy a generator, or should I just make new brakets and buy an alternator for it? Because just from what I've heard, the generators overcharge the battery and then they just barely put out so I don't want to waste the $50+ on the generator if it's not going to last.

Oh, and the deal on top of the dash is like a parking break for when operating the winch. Well, the brakes never worked so I guess it WOULD be for that. The little throttle-type deal by the steering wheel is for the winch also, it's just to make it roll up or unwind faster, sort of like putting a forklift in neutral and accelerating.

Adam, a properly functioning generator and voltage regulator will keep your battery charged just fine. The biggest advantage to alternator over generator is that an alternator DOES charge at idle, whereas most generators put out very little at idle speed. I expect your truck had a 35 amp generator factory installed. Out there in farm country with older tractors still running there'll be someone who understands generator charging systems and can rebuild them.

You shouldn't have to make any brackets if you change over to alternator. Find a similar engine from a 1963 or later truck and it will have alternator brackets.

If the hydraulic system is in good condition, that truck should have had good brakes. The Mico Brake was a safety device for when the truck was parked and working. I think they're still made; there's reference to them in our corporate safety manual for line and service trucks.

[Guest Adam4t]

Well I'm sure my dad can show me about generator because I know next to nothing about them compared to alternators. I guess the generator would work because I don't really plan on setting in idle unless it hadn't been started in a while to let it warm up, and I don't want the battery to blow up on me. I just don,t want to spend the money on a generator thats not going to last a while. I want to try operating the winch since my grandpa said it's probably the only thing that works on that truck. I need to get a generator first thing then a battery for precautions. Well I'll see this weekend hopefully if I don't go to a dairy show in Merced I'll get the fenders off if I still have time.. otherwise everythings going to wait for another week or two. I mostly just need the money to get what I need right now. It'll all be done in good time, hopefully.

[Guest Adam4t]

I guess I wasn't the only one with this particular model truck that had brake problems? After looking a bit.

Re: 1958 Chevrolet Viking C60

And by the looks of it, this guy did a great job, whoever he may be! Even though his is a 40 series rather than 60 series.

Brian Egan's 1958 Chevy Viking 4100 with a 1956 Manley Wrecker -- To the frame old truck restoration

I'm rather jealous haha. Especially since I don't have the equipment to completely dismantle this thing down to the chassis.

[Guest Adam4t]

Well, I posted this in the Big Bolts section of Stovebolt, so far I've gotten one response. I'll post a link and quote what he said.

1958 Chevrolet Viking 60 Series. - The Stovebolt Forums

Welcome to the Big Bolt Group!

I don't see that anyone decoded your vin number for you so I will...

6B59O104699

6B = 6400 Series (156.5" wheelbase)

59 = 1959

O = Oakland Assembly Plant

104699 = Unit number from Oakland Plant starting with 100001

Looks like your 1958 is really a 1959...

Your truck should have the 261 cu. in, 6 cyl motor with the SM-420 transmission.

If you have 20" tires, DO NOT PUT AIR IN THEM until you have identified what type of rim you have. If they are two-piece with the center lock band they are dangerous. If they are 3-piece they can be services, put find someone that has experience with truck tires check them first. Many people have been killed by the old rusty rims flying apart when they are aired up. Just be safe.

Mike B

So.... It's a 59. Boy do I feel stupid haha.

[rocketraider]

Ha, Adam- making any progress? Hopefully you're putting that parts book to good use...

[Guest Adam4t]

Sorry for the very late reply I've been really busy with work since summer started.

I am putting it to the best work possible until I have some money. I have everything I will most likely need marked and have a list as well just incase. I will be replacing both fenders because the reason the doors open into them is because the bottoms of each are rusted away so they stick out and its a difficult fix. And I will probably be replacing the cab depending how difficult it will be to fix the hang-over... which may not be that hard so long as I can bend the metal correctly.

-Adam

[Guest rickgravell]

I have the whole front clip for a "60" if your interested. I live in central Texas.

[bhclark]

How about an update Adam?

[Guest CO_Viking]

Hi everybody. Check out this awesome Viking on eBay...it's a very well preserved truck that needs a new owner!

Chevrolet : Other Pickups - eBay (item 270726755653 end time Apr-03-11 17:00:00 PDT)