60 Buick - Advice on fixing tranny leak

[JoelsBuicks]

<!-- google_ad_section_start -->I've reached a point where I really need to get the transmission leak fixed on my 60 Electra. I removed the inspection plate and it's coming from the front of the transmission, just behind the torque converter - most likely a main seal. A couple years ago I replaced the rear torque ball seal and it has held up very well. I'm really not wanting to get back into this rear part.

Has anyone out there opted to just remove the engine to access the tranny as opposed to pulling the rear end out, etc.? If I do go ahead and pull the rear end, can I leave the torque ball joint intact and just pull everything out at once? Maybe the folks at transmission shops have a way to do this relatively painlessly and I should just bite the bullet and let them do it?

Advice or comments on the right approach? I know of no compelling reason to have the engine out other than accessing the transmission.

Thanks,<!-- google_ad_section_end -->

[Guest martylum]

Hi-Before you pull out that tranny, check the 1 or 2 torque converter drain plugs for leakage. If you are real lucky , tightening one or both will stop the leak.

I'm going to remove the tranny from a 53 Roadmaster sometime in the next few months and read in the shop manual to just jack up the whole car on stands and pull the rear axle back to remove the tranny probably because there are a whole lot of things in the engine compartment to disconnect to remove both engine and tranny. Now if you could just work in a need to rebuild the engine, pulling the engine would make perfect sense.

In my case the engine needs a rebuild so the 2 will come out together.

Hope your fix will be simple and quick.

Martin Lum

[Pete Phillips]

Joel,

Yes, you can remove the rear end and transmission while leaving the torque ball joint intact, provided you remove the cross member that supports the rear of the transmission. I'm not sure I would want to try to line up the repaired transmission (with entire rear end and torque tube assembly attached to the trans.) with the back of the engine, though. Could be a bit difficult to manage, though some might think pulling and lining up the engine with the front of the transmission is just as difficult (not me). I presume you don't need to paint or detail your 401 or your inner fenders/firewall, which would give another excuse to pull the engine?

P.S.: Where in Texas are you--near enough to join the North Texas Chapter??????? Would love to see some of that fleet you have.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Sherman, Texas

1948 Roadmaster sedan

1949 Super Estate Wagon

1950 Roadmaster 2-dr. ht.

1959 Electra 2-dr. ht.

1962 Electra 225 4-dr. ht.

1963 Wildcat conv. 4-spd.

Sherman,Texas

[JoelsBuicks]

When I had my inspection plate off, I did put a wrench on those plugs on the front of the torque converter. I just wasn't that lucky. The car is leaking about 1/4 pint or more after every run.

Come to think of it, my car's engine and its compartment could use a paint job. At one time I was really thrilled about this car's great originality and low miles but its daily use is beginning to take its toll - i had to put in seatbelts, a side view mirror, good radial tires, and that old carpet now has a big hole worn through. On top of that, I find myself really admiring a good clean engine compartment. Seems like everyone that sees this car wants to see what's under the hood and this is certainly not her best side. As far as the engine itself, it is still strong with 70K miles on it and it uses very little oil.

Other than having to wrestle with that hood, I'm not too afraid to pull the engine and it would keep me out from under the car. I wonder what motor mounts look like at 50 years old?

Pete, I'm located in Katy, Tx and just moved here from northern OK. With the exception of this 60 Electra, my "fleet" is still back in Ok. This move was not exactly what I was wanting, but the alternatives weren't good either. About half of my cars are running and driveable and the others are complete but not running. The '35, 37-40, 38-40, and 39 will each require much effort. I recently added a sidemounted 38-40 that is complete but not running. To me, these old Buicks are some of the most beautiful cars ever built and one of these days, I'll get back on the right side of that river and finish them.

Thanks,

[Guest 70 Electra]

Come to think of it, my car's engine and its compartment could use a paint job. At one time I was really thrilled about this car's great originality and low miles...On top of that, I find myself really admiring a good clean engine compartment. Seems like everyone that sees this car wants to see what's under the hood and this is certainly not her best side.

Joel,

Just a suggestion, but consider the irreversiblity of painting and detailing the engine compartment. There's nothing wrong with an 'honest patina' in the engine compartment, and it gives credibility to what you described as the car's "great originality". As they say, it's only original once.

Perhaps a gentle cleaning and degreasing will improve the appearance, while retaining the nice 'character' of originality.

[Aaron65]

Joel, in addition to tightening the drain plugs, have you tried torquing all of the front pump cover nuts to 25 ft./lbs? You access them through the flexplate inspection shield area. If there are any loose, you'll lose a lot of fluid. I had a loose one that left a huge puddle every time I parked the car. After tightening them, it only left a dribble or two, like most Buicks!

[old-tank]

P.S.: Where in Texas are you--near enough to join the North Texas Chapter??????? Would love to see some of that fleet you have.

Since you live in Katy, TX check out the Lone Star Chapter HERE.

Also the three chapters in Texas (and others) will getting together to play in the street at the BUICKS AND BLUEBONNETS TOUR.

Willie

[JoelsBuicks]

Just a quick followup on my original post. I decided to fix the dynaflow leak the conventional way - drop the rear end and remove the transmission instead of accessing via removal of the engine. The leak was coming from the torque converter cover and when I opened it up I found the large diameter o-ring to be cracked and lifeless. I've got several miles on her now and have yet to see a fresh drop of oil on the garage floor. I also fixed the fuel tank sending unit, got the back bumperettes straightened and rechromed, and replaced a leaking rear wheel grease seal.

I know that hindsight is 20/20 but in retrospect, I believe that the engine removal approach would compete very well with what I did. In fact, if I have to go through this again, I'll find myself trying it!