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1938 lz motor


Guest hannibalhann

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Guest hannibalhann

hi y'all, well the 38 lz motor is ready to go to the shop to get bored 30 over, tanked, magaflux, new cam bearings, plained the surfaces,grind the valves,,new studs, the cam and crank, heads, manifold are ready they will resurface the flywheel too :):):rolleyes:

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Edited by hannibalhann (see edit history)
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When you have the block magnafluxed, be sure they also check for cracks in the waterjacket around the valves -- this area is often overlooked. As a safeguard, you might also think about having a sealant put in the engine. My understanding is that some car manufacturers do this with new blocks nowadays. Other opinions, for or against?

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Guest hannibalhann

hi boz i'll talk to the guys at the shop about the the new coatings also the cracks between the water jackets any other hints would be helpful:)

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Guest hannibalhann

thanks peacher,, the heads are 40"s i have only one 38 right side at this time,,,, looking for the left:rolleyes:

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Guest hannibalhann

hi preacher,, yes the block is a 1938 the two heads are 40's i only have 1 head thats a 38's ,,,NEED 1 DRIVER SIDE 38"s to make the engine complete for my car,:rolleyes: larry ps the engine that i took out was a 46 to 48

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Edited by hannibalhann (see edit history)
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If the crankshaft out of the '46-'48 engine is useable you might consider using it in your '38. It has larger, drilled oil passages with no sludge traps or welch plugs at the rod journals. There are a couple of things you would need to do: If you want to use the '38 style ( solid) flywheel, the "hub" that houses the pilot bearing would have to be machined off and the '46-'48 connecting rods would need to be used as they have larger bearings.

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Guest hannibalhann

thanks preacher for the info... Earle told me about the crank and rods.. i'll look at the flywheel tomorrow to see which one i have.:) larry

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