Roger Zimmermann

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

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May 07, 2009
THIS IS THE DAY!


YES! Today I painted the body. This time with unrelated surprise : the dog gave back his breakfast. As the incident was on a carpet, I did the cleaning between the color coat and clear coat. It was ideal to avoid rushing to spray the clear coat!  

You will certainly appreciate the spray boot, in fact the kitchen which has not yet been cleaned.

Due to the shape of the car, I had to spray the paint up, on sides and from under. I found the solution to this problem by looking in a forum a modeler painting his model on a construction allowing the various spray directions. I copied the idea by using the base I had while building the Toronado and welding a tube. A steel sheet attached to the body and a bolt, welded to the sheet metal is allowing the model to be turned on the tube.

I’m satisfied at 95% ; there are small issues and dust. A sanding and polishing will be done after the paint is completely dry.

The same day, I pick-up the third batch from chromed parts.
 

154 Painted body.JPG

155 Painted body.JPG

156 Painted body.JPG

157 Painted body without masking.JPG

158 Painted body without masking.JPG

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May 08, 2009
Not the last batch of chrome

The last one will be the one with the wheelcovers and two small moldings I forgot to add to the tree. Those moldings can be installed anytime; therefore this not a problem.


There is another small tree: the molding for the rear window and the basket with the separate letters. I opened this morning; the result is half good : some letters are stuck somewhere; I will have to be careful by totally opening that cage otherwise I could cut one or more hidden letters.

159 Chrome 3ème série.JPG

160 Entourage vitre ar..JPG

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May17, 2009
One of my side occupations is overhauling 1956 to 1963 Hydramatic transmissions. For the moment, I have 2: one from 1959 and another one from 1956. In between, I did sand and polish the Avanti body. I’m sanding with 1200 paper just to cut the orange look from the clear coat. That sanding paper is not very aggressive but anyway is removing material. My fear while doing that is to go past the clear coat which would be real bad. A spot repair is very impractical and both paint cans I have are almost empty. Yesterday I painted the body sill reinforcements using both cans: one has a slight tone difference. Therefore, minor differences are always possible with spray cans.

The buffing from the body is then done with the various products I have for real cars. I have also added some chromed parts.

 

June 08, 2009
The headliner

The headliner from the real Avanti is not quite conventional with a structure. For weeks I was searching a solution for that, knowing that I would not be able to reproduce it exactly. One night, I got the idea to use blotting paper. It’s about the same color and has some structure built in, of course not identical.
 

The brass hooks at the joint will be used to attach the safety bar at the roof.

 

161 first chrome.JPG

162 first chromes.JPG

163 Headliner.JPG

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Roger, what type of clear coat do you use on your models?  Thanks, John

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I used the one from Dupli-color for this model; then I had a clear coat made by the French company which prepared the blue metallic for the Mark II. I'm almost sure that you can take any clear coat.

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Roger.

We just got a 54 Hydromatic Jetaway from a Olds NintyEight for a rebuild. Its only the 3rd one we have ever seen. Is there any info on them available. I seems to remember they have a Torque converter and also a fluid coupling inside the front of the transmission.

 

Any info would be welcome

Gerry

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Gerry, something is not quite right: 1954 was still the first generation Hydramatic, but not the Jetaway which came for 1956. Have a look at the identification plate.

Jetaway don't have a torque converter but a fluid coupling and, effectively, a second fluid coupling for 2 and 4th speed. There were specific shop manuals for those transmissions issued by Olds and Pontiac. On Cadillac, this was included in the regular shop manual.

Have a look at what I did on a '57 Cadillac transmission: http://forums.cadillaclasalleclub.org/index.php?topic=150731.0

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Great learning to see your model coming out so nice,particularly the gap between the gates and the frame.The logo of Studebaker and Avanti is a masterpiece. Hats off to your skills Roger

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Roger, I want to thank you for what you have done with with your 1:12  work and for taking the time to document everything. I only found your post last month and I have been spending the last few weeks reading and looking at all of the wonderful information and photos you have shared. I have been sharing them with anyone I could get to look. I just reached page 88 and the completion of the Continental and wanted to post a note before I go on and see the work on the Toronado and Avanti. Your abilities, persistence and patience are absolutely amazing. My neck must be at least an inch larger in circumference with all the work outs it has endured shaking my head from side to side (as others have mentioned). The Continental is truly a work of art! The education you have provided us all on the techniques and tools, the insight into your thought processes and problem solving along with the dedication to stick to a project show what can be accomplished if we really try is much appreciated and respected. As many others have said (and I am sure so many more who have read but haven't posted have thought) thank you for all you have done!

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Thanks Detroit_Electric!

 

July 30, 2009
For me, the summer season is not ideal for modeling. As this afternoon was overcast, I decided to finish the ceiling with all associated parts.


On a French forum, there was a concern that the blotting paper could turn yellow. As you can see, it’s not the case, but it could get black if I continue to hold the body by putting my fingers on the ceiling!

The quarter trim panel is not yet installed; this is the reason of the excess leather at the window opening.

The small white lever just under the dash is the hood opening lever.

 

August 07, 2009
Carpet installation

Prior to that, I had to install the console definitively.

Then, the 5-pieces carpet was glued on the floor. It’s a difficult material: black velvet which is far from having some stability where it’s cut.

Seat and dash are only there for the fun because the dash cannot be installed before the windshield: windshield wipers are attached with a nut from inside the model. (4th picture)

The seats will be installed only when the body is definitively attached to the frame.

The door’s sills are still missing: they will be done later.
 

August 18, 2009
The windows

As it’s a task I don’t like, I postponed and postponed the installation of the windshield. However, as long it’s not put in place, I cannot finish the dash as the wipers are screwed from inside.

I’m not a fan from silicone, but it’s the best way to glue windows. Once it was done, I had to glue the side and upper garnish moldings. I had some difficulties because the lower molding, glued with instant cement, was not correctly positioned; there was a gap between the molding and the body.

What to do ? The wipers did hide the problem partly, I was not happy. With a cutter, I could separate the molding from the window. This required some cleaning and a new procedure to glue the moldings.

First gluing with silicone the molding at the RH A pillar and the upper one. Those elements are held with tape during the time of curing. Then, I glued the lower molding with the instant glue and finally the LH A pillar molding was installed with silicone.
As 24 hours are needed for the silicone to set, the model will stay that way overnight.


 

164 Interior.JPG

165 headliner.JPG

166 Interior.JPG

167 Interior.JPG

168 collage cadre.JPG

169 collage cadre.JPG

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Roger, I love the interior panels, and switches. visors! wonderful work! Thanks for all of your posing . John

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September 03, 2009
Another great day!


It went however not without pain: today, the body was attached to the frame. Almost everything was at the right place, the screws at the frame torqued. I did know that the cooling fan could not be installed on the engine because the shroud was in the way. I believed that I could slip the fan between the pulley and the radiator; to my dismay, I realized that it was not possible. The correct process it to place the fan into the shroud, taking care that it stays there, then lower the body on the frame, looking that the emergency brake’s cable stay in place too and, finally, the screw the fan into the pulley with its central stud.

I could not resist doing some pictures.

If the engine compartment is not yet ready at 100%, the dash is now in place definitively. The steering wheel will be installed later.
 

170 Body 3-9-09.JPG

171 Body on frame.JPG

172 Dashboard.JPG

173 behind.JPG

174 from behind.JPG

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September 05, 2009
Bumpers installation and other details

 

Once the body is on the frame, it’s time to install elements which could not be installed before this important step.

The rear bumper was not an issue. 4 screws and it was done. The original car had more bolts, but not practical to install on the model.

Once the back bumper is secured, it’s time to have a look at the front one. 6 bolts and it will be done, a small job. Well, it went not so easy : when I tried to attach the front bumper, it was without the radiator and other minor parts. Without too many difficulties, I could install 2 bolts. The 2 other ones securing the main supports to the frame are near the radiator and the nut must go between the radiator and the frame. On the right side, I had the impression to have more space which was true once the horn was removed. I did a special wrench to maintain the nut for a short time. Fortunately, the nut did bite immediately. For the other side, I had to remove the battery and use a thinner wrench. After a while, the nut was willing to bite.

Both screws attaching the bumper ends to the front fenders could be screwed but the torque was not very important because the radiator was in the way, therefore the screwdriver was not square at the screw heads. Time needed for that bumper: about 3 hours!

The LH door is just installed for the pictures. I have first to finish the installation of the side windows.

It’s now obvious that the wheelcovers are far from mint!

 

Since the previous post, I installed the master cylinder and booster.

183 with rear bumper.JPG

182 with front bumper.JPG

181 front bumper.JPG

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Posted (edited)

October 19, 2009


No, I did not sleep the whole month. Quite the contrary: the assembly from the model is near complete. Obviously some are still not there like the rear window, emblems and headlamp doors.

And, of course, the heavy job is still ahead: new wheels, tires and wheelcovers. Here are some latest pictures, the second one with closed side window and the next one with open window.
 

190 Profil.JPG

192 Vitre fermée.JPG

193 Vitre ouverte.JPG

189 Tout ouvert.JPG

185 Capot ouvert.JPG

Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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October 28, 2009
As I’m waiting small bulbs for my 57 Brougham (scale 1:1), I decided it was a good opportunity to glue the back window. I used instant glue to attach the window to the body; the molding is glued with transparent silicone. As the setting process is rather long, some tape was used to maintain the molding.

 

When set, I will be able to remove the excess silicone; then I will be ready to glue the side emblems and the name plate at the trunk lid. The end is near !
 

191 Back window instal..JPG

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November 10, 2009
Something entirely different…


...but still for the same model: THE WHEELS! Not long ago, I bought some brass to do the rims; unfortunately, there was no tube available at that time, I took a plain stock. That bit of brass is heavy : 1 kg ! The beginning is to reduce the outside diameter from 40mm to 35mm. Due to the nature of the lathe, I cannot take more than 0.5mm each pass. If I’m taking more, there are too many unwanted vibrations.

Once the outside diameter done, I will saw 5 slices a bit more than 13mm thick. They will be about 110 grams each. Once each rim will be ready, their weight will be just some grams, but I will have a mountain of metal chips!


 

194 Heavy stock.JPG

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November 11, 2009
 

We are continuing with the rim work: I’m now turning the inside diameter. There are bits of brass everywhere !

The machining of the rim is coming well along. On those parts, angles are never at 90°. The small tool is perfect to machine such surfaces at odd angles. They must be recorded to facilitate the work at the other remaining parts.

The first rim is completed ; the weight is just 21 grams. For the 5 rims, I began with a 1 kg tube! Yes, there is a lot of waste.
 

196 Jante en travail.JPG

195 Working the rim.JPG

197 Completed rim.JPG

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That's true. It's not ecologic nor efficient, but I cannot do differently. You will see again later when I will relate the construction from the fame and engine from the Cadillac V-16!

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November 23, 2009
 

After almost swimming into metal chips, I finished the 5 rims and began to do the wheel’s centers.

 

November 27, 2009

 

There is a lot of hand held tool work, especially at the rear of the wheel’s centers. I have to be careful with the fingers and with the tool. There are vibrations and, if the tool is not held correctly, it can get stuck into the part to be machined. The secret with this kind of work is to take away a maximum of metal but leaving enough to have a stabile part.
 

198 Rims.JPG

199 Flasque.JPG

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November 30, 2009
Not yet finished…

...and already something to repair?
The hub from the front brake rotor is 0.1mm too large for the hole at the wheel center. It can happen when there is not enough precision! I had to remove the caliper to modify the rotor.

For practical reasons, I could not enlarge the wheel’s center hole. Now, I have to do the same at the other side!  

 

December 01, 2009


The first wheel is ready. I had to modify the inside diameter because there was an interference with the caliper.

I just have to finish the 4 other wheels, fabricate the wheelcovers and the tires!
 

200 Roue démontée.JPG

201 First wheel.JPG

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Is your jackstand appropriately positioned and of good quality? I'd think twice about working under that car.

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