Roger Zimmermann

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

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15 minutes ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

Well Paulie, somebody (me?) should give you a medal to have read that thread 3 times!

 

Roger

I know Paulie, I turned him on to this thread. The next time I see him I will give him that medal (Quarter dollar) for you. I’m looking forward to your v16 project.

Alex D.

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52 minutes ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

Well Paulie, somebody (me?) should give you a medal to have read that thread 3 times!

Detroit_Electric: thanks to spend your spare time to look at this thread. It seems that you need some more spare time. If you have a question about something you saw, put it here. Sometimes I remember how I did this or that, but not always.

I was already rewarded by following the build (I think that is a pretty good job of sucking up LOL 😉 )

 

35 minutes ago, Alex D. said:

 

Roger

I know Paulie, I turned him on to this thread. The next time I see him I will give him that medal (Quarter dollar) for you. I’m looking forward to your v16 project.

Alex D.

Alex I will accept the quarter with pride LOL

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Roger, I was very interested to see the parts for chroming, these were a work of art, even before chroming. In the past I have done some nickel plating in the workshop and found it rather annoying that the areas where the copper wire connected to the part,to be plated did not get coated in the nickel, do you get over this problem by carefully choosing an area to fix the wire where it does not matter?

 

Another plating question. I always assumed the plating was polished after the plating process and that the dull plating was where the chrome was not polished. It appears that I am incorrect in my assumption?

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Recently, I wrote that the tree idea came from the plastic kits. No matter how good the kit is, "chromed" parts are held to the tree at a place which can be seen after the part is cut from the tree. This is why I'm always attaching the parts to the copper wire at a place it cannot be seen when the part is installed. Usually, I have to mill the soft solder at the back; it belongs to the process. If you are good looking the trees I published, you can see where the parts are attached. Of course, the difficulty for you is to know what will be seen and what not!

 

I cannot answer your second question. All the chromed parts are shiny but it may happen that the end of a molding or whatever is dull. Of course, it would be foolish to try to polish that dull section.

It could be that large parts (for cars scale 1:1) there is a polishing process after the plating, but I'm not sure; I never asked. 

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Posted (edited)

November  30, 2008


What you are seeing is a front shock absorber (last picture). Inside, there is a product (HYVIS) I got from PB years ago when I was searching a solution for the Brougham rear levelling valves. I have two viscosities from that product: the front shock absorbers got the thick material and therefore are too hard; the rear ones were filled with the low viscosity and, with the time, the product leaked. Some weeks ago, I had to do 2 new parts again, they were empty!

I still have some paint on the nail. The irregular shape is a collateral damage: by grabbing the parts with the nails to file them, sometimes the file bits the nail!

 

December 08, 2008
After the paint on the frame, the turn is now to the engine. This is requiring a compete removal from the parts to improve the surface and then the painting process. The pictures are showing what I did that afternoon December 8.

In the background, a wood block with the small drills and taps.

Some parts are already in the work process. The 8 holes into the block are just done to be nice; there was indeed no reason to do them.

The exhaust manifolds are still attached to the heads; there is no reason to remove all at once; there are enough parts to be treated.

 

The big question now is about the engine color. R1 & R2 Studebaker engines are black. Not especially nice, it was the Studebaker’s problem. However, on a scale model, a black engine will create a black spot in the engine compartment and I don’t like that. I not respect the authenticity and paint the engine dark red or dark blue.

R3 engines are orange; this paint does not please me because the top R3 engine is very different from the R1 version (the one I’m doing). Further, the fan on Avanti models is already orange; I want another color to have some life!


 

28 Moteur brut LH.JPG

27 Moteur brut front.JPG

29 Moteur brut RH.JPG

117 pièces de moteur.JPG

116 Amortisseur AV.JPG

Edited by Roger Zimmermann
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I have been absent for a while. Sure is nice to be back and see this is still as consuming as it has ever been. The work, from concept , planning and construction is astounding and beautiful to see. But, even more is the patient photography, posting explanations (with humor), and then fielding our questions and comments. Roger, you are a genuine example of a true gentleman, as well as a rare craftsman. Thanks pal. Pat

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December 12, 2008
When I did this report in 2008, nobody did an objection about the engine color. As nobody argued about this very important topic, I had to decide myself: the engine will be metallic red. At first, I wanted a solid color, because the metallic paints are needed a clear coat, rendering the work a bit more complicated. But metallic paints are so much better looking ! I tried first the water pump. After a while, I wanted to spray the clear coat. Bad luck, my old can is too old and probably the gaz is gone.

Back to the town to get a new can. As the water pump is good looking, tall the other parts are getting their red paint.

On the first picture, the oil pan is at the LH top corner; the flywheel on the top right corner, the block is at the left, plus other smaller parts.
 

December 15, 2008
Hard week-end !

It was devoted to the assembly of the block and the transmission. Cylinder heads and intake manifold will be installed when the engine is on the frame, because, as I’m alone for the job, the weight of the engine without accessories is what I’m able to carry. Oh sorry, its’ a wrong explanation : we are not dealing about a 1:1 engine, but a scale model! The reason is another one : If the heads would be installed I could not screw the nuts at the front engine supports.

Maybe some of you will notice that there is a mix with screws with hex heads and other with cylindrical heads which are far from usual on engines. The reason is easy: I discovered last year a store in Germany which is selling small hex bolts and nuts, when most was already done for screws with cylindrical heads. Many of them are 0.7mm; dimension which does not exist with hex heads. I should go to the smaller diameter, requiring plugging the already done holes. I’m a fool, but there are limits!

118 Pièces moteur peintes.JPG

119 Painted engine, front.JPG

120 Painted engine, LH.JPG

121 Painted engine, RH.JPG

122 Painted engine, above.JPG

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December 17, 2008
I’m lucky : the crane to place the engine on the frame did not collapse !

As I wrote earlier, cylinder heads and accessories will be installed later. In fact, the cylinder heads will be assembled on the engine with the exhaust manifolds and the fist exhaust tube; this is the only way to assemble the elements with the appropriate nuts.

There will be no gasket between the block and the heads. 

Imagine the engine in black! With the black frame, there would be a gob of black paint.  


On those pictures, don’t you have an impression that something is not right ? I don’t speak about what’s laying around the frame but AT THE FRAME. No, nothing?

Well, I’m disturbed by something: the wheels. If the tires are just acceptable, the wheels are now totally inadequate with the frame. I took the decision: when the model will be ready, I will do other wheels and maybe other tires. On my small lathe, it will be a lot of work; ideal when there is snow outside!

 

December 21, 2008
According to what I wrote 11 years ago, it was snowing this day. It’s a real pleasure for me not to have to go outside! The assembly could continue without regret.

The assembly from a scale model is almost like the same duty for a car scale 1:1 like: Oh! I forgot that or: s.it, I have no more the things for this or that; I must quickly do 2 or 3, and so on.  

The following pictures will be the last for the year 2008.

The air cleaner and other parts for the ignition system are not yet installed because they are not yet chromed. The fan belt is a funny one ; who saw just once a blue belt ?

The exhaust attachment at the rear is not yet done; I forgot it while I was doing the frame. As I cannot make holes at the proper place, I will have to improvise.

The carb is also not very detailed; in fact, it’s just a piece of brass on which the air cleaner will be attached.

I will do spark plugs because, depending the angle one is looking at the engine, there is just a hole. A shame!

 

123 Engine on frame, LH.JPG

124 Engine on frame, RH.JPG

125 Engine and frame.JPG

126 Engine and frame, from under.JPG

127 Engine and frame, front.JPG

128 Engine and frame, LH.JPG

129 Engine and frame, RH.JPG

130 Engine, almost complete.JPG

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Did you remember to fit the crankshaft and pistons before fitting the cylinder heads? :)

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7 hours ago, Mike Macartney said:

Did you remember to fit the crankshaft and pistons before fitting the cylinder heads? :)

Fortunately, it's only a push mobile!

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Roger, where do you draw your inspiration from. I build models, and you certainly inspire me. Thanks, John

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My inspiration? First of all, I'm an automotive engineer. Which does no means that I cannot have two left hand. But, from youth, I had the ability to do something with my hands. Further, before I went to the engineer school, I worked for two years in a body shop. When I left that shop, I did not think a lot about it. But, in the long term, it was a fantastic schooling.

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Not having the pistons, rods, crank, gaskets, etc. is a good enough reason to have a carburetor that isn't working. No need, is there? Certainly not going to use the optional supercharger either. haha, of course. That engine- and your other ones as well look so real that they could very well be running examples. Man, you are good, Roger.

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Don't remember where I wrote that the model  indeed never produced in this configuration: R1 engine (the supercharger was the R2), 3-speed transmission, no power steering and no A/C. I wanted to be just basic. Later, I saw how it's easy to be lost into the details like I did on the Mark II.

Pat, my goal was always to fool people if I wanted to let them think it's the real thing!

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18 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

. . . . my goal was always to fool people if I wanted to let them think it's the real thing!

 

Well Roger, you have fooled me on numerous occasions. :)

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I have heard that some high dollar show cars have no internal parts in them.  They push them onto the show field.  This must be one of them.😁😁😁😉

Looking good Roger!

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December 30, 2008
Some days ago, I tried to put the body on the frame to trace down eventual issues. It was a good idea: I noticed that I could not install the brake module: the booster is making an interference with a screw from the rocker cover! The sole solution is to do another booster support to raise it for about 1.5mm. Not more because another other interference with the hood is programmed! This situation is happening when some parts are done too early.

I hope that I will get no other bad surprise…

 

January 18, 2009
As the frame is almost complete, I had to remove all the elements installed in or on the body to finish it. I did some corrections: the floor under the rear seat was too far away from the reality; the trunk lid was bulging too much; it should be practically flat. I could not correct that much, but now it’s better. Before the correction, it was looking almost like a dog doing its business!

Small imperfections from the polyester are corrected with filler. It’s easy to apply but takes a long time to get dry, especially to fill pores: it’s dry at the surface, but not through. If the body is sanded too early, the solvents will continue to evaporate and the surface will have a small depression.

What can I do during the waiting time? Parts to be chromed! There are still many to do. The bright work was rather restrained on the Avanti, nevertheless there are many plated parts. Anyway, not quite like a ’58 Buick Limited!

Here is the second batch to be plated. You can recognize the air cleaner, the wipers, the side window frames, the front bumper ends and many more. The tree will go to the plating company soon because the roads are beginning to be cleaner after the snow and very cold weather.

 

January 19, 2009
Once the parts are ready, I can continue with the body. I sanded the single stage filler and finished the underbody. People who know Avanti models well will recognize the « hog trough »; those parts are the reinforcement parts at the sills. On the original cars, they have the tendency to rust from inside out. Like Corvette cars, there are some structural parts made with steel.
 

132 Chromage, 2ème série.JPG

133 Soubassement.JPG

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January 25, 2009
Drying time

It’s always frustrating. Even if the filler can be sanded after 24 hours, I prefer to wait longer. Anyway, I’m not without work: I could begin to finish the front seats. It takes a long time and stressing: the bit of leather to be glued must be positioned with precision and done rather quickly as the glue is getting dry rather quickly. One of both seats is almost finished; the other one is far from ready.


In between, I do continue with the body shell. The other day, I had a shock : the flange between windshield and hood is too low on the left side by about 1mm. I saw it only when the primer was sprayed on the surface. What can I do ? As I’m far away from the final paint, it’s still possible to correct it witch is requiring modifications to the hood, body and left door. The needed modification is done with a 2 components filler which is almost yellow on the picture.

January 30, 2009
The second serie of the shiny chromed parts is back.

Chromed parts are always difficult to photography, especially if the chrome is well done which was not the case at the first serie.

The fourth picture is showing the parts which I was not happy with: they had a lot of tiny pits; at first I was thinking that I would let them that way, but the more I looked at them the more I was unhappy.

They will be back to the plating company as the third batch, together with the rear bumper, the center bar from the front bumper and other parts.

 

January 31, 2009
The parts from this second batch are very well done. I believe that plating parts is a difficult art and the results are not always predictable.

Yesterday, I assembled the door’s locks. they are made with 4 main tiny parts which can be as slippery as a soap! Fortunately, nothing was lost and the locks are functioning as intended.

After that, the last chromed parts for the engine were assembled.

On both engine’s picture, you can see a spark plug!
The blue belt is still a problem; I’m sure a solution will come one day.

135 Front seats.JPG

136 Body repair.JPG

131 Chrome serie2.JPG

134 Bad chrome.JPG

137 Mot. et chromes RH.JPG

139 Moteur et chromes.JPG

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January 31, 2009


This is a critical job: sanding the body. Usually, there are 3 steps forwards and 2 ½ backwards. It’s incredible how many imperfections and errors I’m discovering, even not so minor. Then, after the shape is satisfying, I have to sand with a 1000 sandpaper to have some gloss which allows seeing unwanted waves at the light. This is at this moment when unwelcomed surprises are seen.  
The kitchen is the perfect boot to sand, without dust as the water is near!

Second picture: one of the various corrections.
 

March 11, 2009
There is almost nothing to show lately, unless you like to see the sanding water! I’m getting slowly satisfied with the general shape, but I still have a couple of corrections to do. While the various products are drying, I’m doing something else. For example, the script “Studebaker”  which is on the trunk lid. I did a new one for 18 months but I had the impression I could do better. The first script is the one I did 40 years ago, still glued on the lid as you can see the excess glue.  

The new ones: the one I did 18 months ago is on top; the new one is in the middle and the last one is indeed the support to do the real one: I soldered a thin bit of brass on a thicker one, allowing the required actions without destroying the part. Once satisfied, I separated both parts.

 

140 Evier.JPG

141 Ponçage.JPG

11 vieux Stude.JPG

142 name plates.JPG

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March 30, 2009
New batch


This batch has the rear bumper on the right, the front central bumper bar almost in the middle, the name plates, etc. With that batch, the parts which were not well chromed are included. I had to polish them again and attach them to the tree. The second batch was perfect; I hope this one will be good too.

I expect that this will be the last batch of parts to be chromed. However, 4 parts will have to be chromed, but much later: the ones responsible for all that work: the new wheelcovers. They will be done when the model will be practically finished.

 

March 30, 2009
What is the purpose of this strange thing? Yes, it’s related with the model.


During the effective construction, I asked the people to offer suggestions. There were some who responded; one even found the solution.


Since years, I had the letters O L D S M O B I L E ready, but I had no idea how to let chrome them. They were too small to be attached with a wire ; while I was at the plating company I asked how the screws from the watch industry were plated. He said that they are put into a basket ; if some are getting lost, it’s not a problem, there are enough. As I did not do more letters as necessary, I did a closed basket. The letters will have a nickel plating which is not too disturbing.
Will the result be good ? The answer will come soon ! 

143 Chromage, 3ème série.JPG

144 Pour nickelage.JPG

145 Nickelage.JPG

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April 20, 2009
Paint!

It’s only the beginning : painting the engine compartment. It will be done alone because with its complicated shape, the model must be held in different positions to be sure that all surfaces are getting some paint.

When the body will be painted, the hood will be installed and closed and masking paper will be used at the underside to avoid that paint dust will go into the engine compartment.

The whole model is covered with newspaper. After 13 grams of paint plus clear coat and a sag (will not be seen, the engine will hide it) the engine compartment is ready.

Once the masking paper is gone, it’s not bad looking. The rods at the left in the compartment are for the battery.
 

April 25, 2009
For a long time, I was undecided about the paint job itself : paint the body without doors and trunk lid or paint the jambs and gutter, assemble the doors and paint all in once ?

Finally, I opted for the second solution as metallic paint may have variations if elements are painted separately. Therefore, I had to continue with the preparation. The body is masked, there will be less surface to sand.

 

146 ready for the engine comp..JPG

147 Engine comp..JPG

148 Engine comp. painted.JPG

149 Engine com. without masking paper.JPG

150 Engine comp. other view.JPG

152 Doors and trunk apertures.JPG

153 Door aperture.JPG

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