Roger Zimmermann

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

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Indeed. It is interesting to see the different modelling techniques when using fibreglass.

 

Nice work and good write-ups. We are all looking forward to the next one!

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On the pictures, it seems that the details were finely reproduced. If I'm remembering well, there was a lot of rework: the plaster buck was too approximately done and a lot of bubbles were distributed through the polyester/fiberglass. This material is not kind at all with files and dentist mills!

Once the LH door was ready, I put it on the car and began to solder the previously separated wires. A test was done when each pair of wires was soldered. It was a good move: for an unknown reason, some buttons let the window down when up was desired. At the end, they all work the way they should; I’m wondering what for a gremlin I introduced!

The wires were next covered with the cover filler and the kick panel was installed. The next problem came when I wanted to install the light switch to the dash frame: the wiring coming from the front end has an insufficient slack to allow pulling the switch towards the back. The sole possibility was to remove the front end panel, motor and end travel switch. Before I’m installing the whole parts, I will test if the electrical circuit is still OK.

55 hidden wires.JPG

58 Dash.JPG

56 front end.JPG

57 front end.JPG

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Roger,

 

Perhaps it is not one of the 'GREMLINS'? It maybe one of these 'SNAGS' that you find when working on old cars!

1291846600_snagsmall.jpg.b3171347fcbdd508559a241a2f78c1c6.jpg

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Maybe, but on my project I have to take a magnifying glass to see it! Anyway it does not make any difference working on a 1:1 car or scale model!

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Yes, they can make themselves very difficult to find. Here's hoping you will have no more Gremlins or Snags on your projects.

 

I am still finding your work fascinating and amazing.

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Fortunately, I found the wiring diagram I did in 1980 for the motor actuating the headlamp/ headlamps and tail lamps.  I intended at that time to let run the motor for the headlamps with 2V and the lamps (in serie) with 6V! Why do simple when you can do complicated?  

Indeed, I will do 2 separate circuits: one for the engine with 6V with its distinct connector at the fuel tank (like I did for the Mark II) and a connector hidden into the trunk for 3V. This will power everything except the traction motor. Of course, I have now to modify the way each separate bulb is fed; they will all get 1.5V; therefore there will always be a group of 2 fed in serie: 3 groups in the trunk for the tail lamps, 1 group each for the headlamps and one group for the parking lamps.

There is a reason why I’m separating completely the circuits for the traction motor and the other electrical devices: if all would be connected with 6V with the corresponding voltage reducer for the window motors, the traction motor would be absorbing current without turning. To let it run, I have to “give gas” by pushing the accelerator; then, when the accelerator pedal is released, the engine is idling (but it does not start in this position) and I could demonstrate that the windows are going up and down (maybe!). However this situation does not please me.

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Like we say, there's more than one way to skin a cat. Sometimes. But, I sure enjoy reading of the thought process you use to decide what way to do that skinning. And, Roger, we are all pretty certain that you will adopt the most useful one in the end. The sheer amount of problem solving you have undertaken in the construction of your models is astounding. I boggles my mind to think that  you restored full size autos and held a job, along with conducting your life as well. Quite the fellow, we think. Thanks for allowing me, and the rest, to tag along with you. Pat

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Thanks for your comments, Pat! However, as you can read below, I'm not sure if I choose always the better solution! Anyway, as you stated, i was busy most of my life!

 

What was I thinking when I began this model in the sixties? I found notes about brake light and I remember doing a functional directional signal lever. The fact is that I installed tiny bulbs at the back together with larger ones. I did also a strange electrical circuit with a 6V wire connected to a derivation box and from that box, a wire going into the trunk. For what purpose? Brake lights? It could be. Anyway, there is no brake switch at the brake pedal and I have no intention to do one. I removed that wire and the black wires which were connected to the large bulbs are now cut because I have no idea where they are ending towards the front of the model. And, of course, there is no documentation.

I rewired the small tail bulbs as I explained previously and did a functional test. 2 bulbs were hardly lit when current was applied. If all bulbs would be connected in parallel, there would hardly be a difference. But with 2 bulbs in serie, if the internal resistance is not near the same, the brightness of each bulb is considerably different. I had to match at least two bulbs to have an acceptable result. If I remember well, some bulbs have a resistance of 8 Ohm and other near 10 Ohms.

Now, the back is ready, I can go to the front and find how the system should be functioning.

As you can see, the end panel was made with brass, like the gutter for the trunk. The license plate is of course installed on hinges.

59 Back end.JPG

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Indeed, the electrical system for the retracting headlamp is OK. Again, I had to search a bit; I had current to the motor but only if I added a ground. Then, I remembered that there is a ground wire at the inside switch. As I was not sure if I had to remove again the dash surround, I put only one screw; the nut was embedded in the polyester, therefore, I could not have a ground! Once the proper screw was torqued, the motor for the headlamps turned in the desired direction depending to the position of the headlamp switch. As the motor is now fed with 3V, it may too much voltage for this application. At first, I tried with 2 30 Ohm resistors in serie, but the motor could hardly open the doors. With just one, it’s better but I had to “massage2 the actuating rod to have the proper tension (either open or closes) at the LH headlamp door. As the rod actuating it is double the length from the RH side, it’s no wonder that it’s a bit tricky.

The pictures are showing the actuating rod, the bell crank and finally the actuating motor and the hidden resistor.

 

 

60 Headlamp system.JPG

61 Headlamp system.JPG

62 Motor and resistance.JPG

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It's starting to look like you are doing a "disassembly" thread on the Toronado hahahaha. I love seeing the guts and what you did to make certain items, even without telling us how you did it. It is as amazing as the Continental. Thank you so much for sharing your work.

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Well, it was not my intention! As you can see, it's like a real car: this unsolved detail is leading to another and another, and so on! here, of course, is not to relate how I did this or that (if I can remember, which is not always the case) but just to show the actual adventure. I'm on the good way now, as you will see with my next report later today or tomorrow.

Thanks for watching!

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Before I soldered the headlamp wires to the main lead, I tested several times the headlamp system. It’s functioning well now that I solved the problem created by the LH headlamp door going too far inside the front panel and jamming.

The light provided by the 4 headlamps is not very bright; the purpose was not a great illumination but a functioning one.

The orange/white wire is for the parking lamps located in the front bumper.

Now, most problems are solved, it’s time to install the parts lying around and do a new carpet.

68 Headlamps off.JPG

69 Healdlamps on.JPG

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Do they actually use Amber lamps for headlights it France? Never been, and don't want to if they like driving in the near dark. Anyhow, the progress on the Olds is good to see- the fact that it even has operating feature is still amazing to me- all my models ever did was sit still and collect dust until my mom made me toss 'em. 

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Fortunately, my mother never interfered with that!

The yellow headlamps from France is a thing of the past. They now have white headlamps like the rest of the world! Anyway, it was maybe possible to tint the round headlamps without too much costs, but now, with the integrated headlamps it's another matter. I'm glad they went away with that.

They may have now good light to drive at night, but they still are undisciplined.

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2 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said:

they still are undisciplined.

Just like NZ drivers given half a chance!

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Hey, Roger....maybe I should send you my Continental Mark II so you can get my lights working....

Picture 26554.jpg

Picture 26557.jpg

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On ‎3‎/‎31‎/‎2019 at 6:02 PM, Roger Zimmermann said:

The yellow headlamps from France is a thing of the past. They now have white headlamps like the rest of the world!

As I thought, I must be living in the past! I haven't been to France for quite a few years and did not realise that they had stopped having the tinted yellow headlamps.

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Posted (edited)

There are small parts I never did for an unknown reason. For example, when the headlamps are closed, a shield is protecting them against dirt. On my past pictures from the front end, it’s obvious that the shields are missing. They are now added. After that, I installed the RH front fender. Another part was never done: the small braces securing the lower front end from the fenders to the radiator cradle. One is now added, I will paint it when the other one is done.

 

Some days ago, I had to remove the RH front fender: the upper pin for the door hinge was protruding too much and was pushing against the fender, creating a bulge in the polyester. Retrospectively, it explain why I had difficulties to have the lower part of the fender aligned with the door.

After one hour, everything was back in place and after a while, the bulge disappeared.

There is another part which I always wanted to do, but delayed and delayed: the front air dam. I had not too much documentation about that; I found in Google 2 decent pictures how the dam should look like. There are still more parts I will not do: left and right from the main dam, there are 2 smaller dams which are following the inner side of the frame.

As I have no more 0.2 or 0.3mm brass, I took 0.1mm material. This thin brass is giving about the same flexibility than the real one which is made with plastic!

 

 

 

70 Added parts.JPG

71 added air damm.JPG

Edited by Roger Zimmermann
comments added (see edit history)
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Roger, someone has probably already posted this video from YouTube on this lengthy thread, but I'm going to put it up anyway because it is so striking to see a full-size version of your model in the same color scheme.

 

 

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A few vacation days in France plus some maintenance work on my 1:1 cars delayed the work on the Toronado. As I’m waiting parts for my ’57 Eldorado Brougham, I had time to finish the second front fender’s brace.

After installing the LH front fender, I checked the alignment with the pumper. Surprise! The first brace was touching the brace tying the bumper end to the main bumper. What to do? Modify the brace? No! I adapted it to the other side without too much hassle and I did another one for the RH fender.

The installation of the front bumper will not be easy: there is little distance between the bumper and the frame; unfortunately, I don’t have captive nuts inside the frame but a plate in two parts with threaded studs. How did I install the bumper years ago?

Another element is now getting my attention: the gas tank. I will do like with the Mark II: the current for the main motor will be by inserting a “fuel hose” into the tank neck.

72 added braces.JPG

73 Fuel tank.JPG

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