Roger Zimmermann

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

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Indeed, I wanted to install the door’s wiring. It went not so well, therefore I had to take it out again. I “managed” to break 2 wires; putting in question if, with the door installed, I can install the wiring where it belongs.

Before I went up, I had the idea to remove the LH fender; it would help greatly with the wiring matter. Surprisingly, it took about 10 minutes to remove the fender, very easy, compared to the recent model I did, the Mark II.

First the rocker panel molding must be removed; I remembered that both small moldings at the front fender and rear quarter, above the rocker molding, are just inserted into a slot because I could not attach them with clips. 4 screws later, the rocker panel is gone. Instead to remove the fender with the wheel house, I removed the 5 screws attaching both parts and 5 more and the front fender is gone. It was then easy to take both pins from the hinges out and the door is removed. Now, I can install the wiring through the door, and assemble it.

The RH door has too much play at the above hinge; as the fenders are so easy to remove, the RH one will be removed too at a later date. Anyway, if I have to remove the panel in front of the hood to improve the headlamp system, the fenders have to be removed because there is one screw on each side of the panel with is attached at the radiator cradle.

The vacuum motor to activate the headlamp door is of course a fake one. It’s here just for the show and out of view when the fender is installed.

29 removing rocker.JPG

30 attaching screw.JPG

31 removed front fender.JPG

32 removed front fender.JPG

33 door removed too.JPG

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i was wondering if you ever made hose clamp(s) or they did nt come with any .... ?

 

besides that the attention to detail is truly amazing ... 😃

 

keep those foto(s) and update(s) coming .... keep up the most excellent remarkable work i have ever seen as of yet 

2050934692_12engineview.JPG.99d85e4a142bae06ff8dc5d73cc0a7c9.JPG

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Roger, I admire your talent. You can't tell the difference from the real car. John

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Roger is the most talented man I have ever seen and nothing would surprise me.

There is nothing less than magic in his head and fingers.

The BEST.

Nelson

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12 hours ago, jfreakofkorn said:

i was wondering if you ever made hose clamp(s) or they did nt come with any .... ?

Some one asked already about this detail. Effectively, I neglected to do them many years ago. The hose clamps are on the improvement list!

 

Thanks also to John and Nelson!

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The door’s wiring was installed yesterday and the electrical continuity tested. As I cannot do a conduit with rubber like the real car, I wrapped the wires with an strange electrical tape: it can be lengthened getting thinner and narrower. The benefit of it: it is self-adhesive and is extremely difficult to unwrap, in contrary to the regular electrical tape. Don’t ask me its name, I don’t have it and don’t remember where I bought it. Then I installed the trim to the door’s shell.

Today, I refreshed the seats (logical, with so many driven miles!) by using a leather paint I have since ages. It’s very thin, is hardly covering, but gives uniformity because the leather was not perfectly tinted when I bought it. When the paint was dry (it takes a few minutes to dry), I rubbed the leather with a leather conditioner I’m using indeed for my real cars.

34 cleaned seats.JPG

35 door is ready.JPG

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Murphy’s Law? While removing the RH trim panels to check the window switch, I noticed that the string actuating the quarter window was no more in its lower guide. This guide is attached to the body with 2 screws inserted from the wheelhouse. Easy to remove, but it was another matter to reinstall it. How did I do that many years ago? Sure, front and rear windows were not yet installed, I had no glasses and the body was not yet installed on the frame. With some tricks that guide was in place after about 2 hours. I tested the switch just to see that the string went out at the upper guide! It stayed there very brave when the string had the wrong position at the lower guide; Did I that different path years ago to avoid problems at the upper guide? I don’t know. I will remove the channel and modify the upper guide. It seems that I will be busy for some time!

To unscrew the lower guide, I had to remove the wheel. It was a good opportunity to put a drop of watch oil into both ball bearings. Have a look too at the brake drum; I don’t remember exactly how I did them; I just remember that the drum itself is brass and the fins are made with polyester. I see now the importance of documentation, even for a scale model.

As you probably know, Toronado cars had a monolame leaf spring at the rear. Unfortunately, I could not duplicate that single leaf and had to make a conventional system. The parking brake from the model is the sole to function without problem because the actuating pedal is at the right location to be pushed with a finger.

39 quarter window.JPG

38 finned drum.JPG

36 small bearing.JPG

37 larger bearing.JPG

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No!!!!!!!!!!     This is truly astonishing ! I mean, the detail of the brakes is literally mind boggling ! As I have said before, mere words fall short in their effort to somehow capture and compliment the genius of your work, Roger. So many of us are stunned, mute before the revelations of "The Master". Please pardon my feeble attempt to pay respect to your creativity. You are absolutely second to none.    -     Carl 

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1 hour ago, C Carl said:

No!!!!!!!!!!     This is truly astonishing ! I mean, the detail of the brakes is literally mind boggling ! As I have said before, mere words fall short in their effort to somehow capture and compliment the genius of your work, Roger. So many of us are stunned, mute before the revelations of "The Master". Please pardon my feeble attempt to pay respect to your creativity. You are absolutely second to none.    -     Carl 

 

I was going to say the same thing, but Carl has it covered.

 

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Thanks, Luv2Wrench ! I am marshalling up what's left of my Grey matter to try to say something worthwhile about Roger's rescue and resurrection of the '56 Eldo' Bi'z. It is not an exaggeration to say Roger has more capability in his pinkie finger than I can put my all to. Another great big WOW  !!!!!!!!!       -    CC 

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Well Carl, you don't write very often, but when you do, I'm getting red in my face! Thanks anyway for your exaggerated comments.

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Yesterday way a really bad day for the model: after removing the window’s guide, I did a guard at the upper guide, and reassemble the whole. There are only 3 screws; I had the whole afternoon for the story. Then, I tried the quarter window. Strange, it goes very slowly, like a dead battery. But the string stayed in place until it was a tiny “crac” and the string broke. I will have of course to replace the string and, inside the model I will have to do 2 knots when I have difficulties to enter just one hand. The question is coming again, how did I do that for 30 years?

For the moment, everything is out: the motor, the window and the guides. I’m putting the model on the side for a couple of days until I’m getting the energy to solve that problem or to let that quarter window fixed in the up or down position.

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To rescue that quarter window, I supposed that removing the RH door could not harm; there is anyway something wrong with the window from that door. Indeed, the string here is broken too! As it will be easier to repair the door when it’s out of the car, it’s like one stone and two flies.

It was an easy task to remove the front fender, pins from the door and disconnect the single switch. Fortunately, the wiring is staying into the car, easier than on the LH side.

There is too much play at the hinges; I noticed that I tried to solve the problem long ago with some soft soldering on the pins. I will have to increase the hinges holes and use larger pins.

While I was at removing parts, it took the back window out. It was glued with contact cement which does not age well.

40 strip-tease.JPG

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Many thanks to search for solutions! It could be that the age has an influence: I tried to tear the remaining string: I could to it easily. On the contrary, I tried the same with the string I have since years (therefore it has the same age): I cannot tear it. I could not tear the remaining string from the rear window either. It could be that the string went weak for an unknown reason. I'm sure I could find a similar product locally. Anyway, the string diameter is important and the fact that it has to be "bent" on rathe small radii.

The string I have has a diameter of .45mm  (0.018") and the small pulleys have a diameter of 2.8mm(0.11").

Anyway, something to think about!

By the way, what about the string's health of the other side? As the LH door is not yet installed, it's not too late to have a good look at that string. I've not yet searched for that Kevlar string; it's making its way into my old brain!

I'm glad that the windows from the Mark II are purely mechanical, actuated by the electric motors.

Edited by Roger Zimmermann
Comments added (see edit history)
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Mike, the string broke most probably because of the stress. Have a look at the attached picture I did right now. When the window is going down, there is extreme stress on the string just after the pulley on the extreme left, because the window is coming to its stop. It the same on the extreme right. The string on the left near the motor has no tension now, but it will have a lot when the window is up. There is a pulley and a spring on the right behind that broad piece of brass, but  the device is not well done and inefficient. As you can see that the string at the left of the motor is frayed, after about 10 times up and down. It's also a candidate spot for weakness.

I did a search at that magic Kevlar reinforced thread; unfortunately, the diameter and other properties are not described in all the sites I had a look. If the properties and diameter are available for my needs, it will be the solution because I will not be able to avoir the stress at some places.

Are you confused with my tentative of explanation? Me too!

41 window system.JPG

Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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Since that window lift design was developed in the seventies, there was a problem with the string tension: either too much or there was slop. The tensioner I did then was not very helpful; time to do something more efficient: it’s a pulley on an arm, as well as a spring giving something similar with an engine’s belt tensioner. Indeed, there must be 2 tensioners but the tests I did are quite satisfactory with only one.

By reaching my glasses this morning, the electrical wires were catch in the glasses and the door fell on the floor. The lower corner at the right is showing that misshapen; fortunately, the molding will hide it at the outside. I have no paint anymore; I will try to mix some to hide the inside damage.

I’m now searching for a Kevlar string to avoid future breaks of the cotton string;  a good idea indeed, thanks Mike!

42 new tensioner.JPG

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Roger, If you can find the manufacturer of the Kevlar string you could try asking for a sample? They may send you enough to last you a long time.

 

I hope the accident repair to the door will not be as complicated as Jeff (love2wrench) has found with the door from his daughters car!

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Up to now, I found resellers only. By one, who is selling per meter, I asked details like flexibility and diameter. Let see if I'm getting an answer!

Fortunately, the accident at the door is marginal as the door is made with polyester resin and fiberglass. It will not be a repair like Jeff had to do! I suppose if that door would have been in metal, the damage would be more consequent.

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If you don’t find what you are looking for, ask the wife! And, indeed, Christine came with a string her mother had since ages. I did a resistance test by rubbing about 100 times the string over a sharp piece. Its looks not very nice now, but I still cannot break it! The sting I used before was submitted to the same test: after 10 times, I had 2 pieces.

A string with Kevlar may be stronger, but what I will be using now is good enough. Anyway, thanks a lot Mike for the suggestion! Without you, I would have used my cotton based string, without thinking further.

43 new string.JPG

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