Roger Zimmermann

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

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If the wires soldering went rather well, the result was not what I expected: during the function test, I noticed that when lowering the RH door window from the master switch, the RH quarter window went up! What was wrong? Wiring problem, a short somewhere? When I noticed that by pulling the switch without much force, the quarter window was not moving. Conclusion: something was not quite good in the master switch.

I don’t like to open again doors, but I had no choice. Fortunately, my construction is rather service friendly, the switch can be separated without too much hassle. I just had to unbend a contact, bend a bit more another one and voilà, all windows are going up and down as intended!

 

1035 door wiring.JPG

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Roger

With all the bumps in the road you come through the winner. That is half of what makes me come back. Steering or wiring nothing can be half way it has to be right, you one amazing craftsman. 

Thanks for the ride along.

Nelson 

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Once the wiring was ready, it was time to hide it under the carpet. I don’t have large hands, but working into the model is not especially easy. I had to shorten the LH kick panel at the bottom. Once in place the question was if I could attach it to the body with the 2 foreseen screws? The slot on those screws is not very deep and the position of the screwdriver is very impractical. First, I searched with a tiny drill bit if the foreseen holes would correspond with the attaching brackets at the body. I did not believe it, but they did! Usually, a couple of seconds is needed to tighten those screws if the setting is right; here I had maybe one hour. For 2 screws!

 

The next step was the seat installation. It was already in the model, I saw no difficulties and it would be done rather quickly. Unfortunately, the reality was very different: I had 3 afternoons to install it! The seat is attached with 4 bolts inserted from under the body. They have to go through the carpet into the nuts from the seat rails. When the seat is into the car, the sight is just zero. So, I prepared 4 studs long enough to go through the carpet and the floor; the studs were screwed into the seat tracks. When one was emerging at the underbody, I secured it with a nut, pushing then on the seat to let the remaining go through the holes. Then, I undid the studs one after the other to use the foreseen bolts. I managed to break one bolt, requiring the removal of the seat to remove the broken bit. After a second similar adventure, I realized that the carpet was the culprit because the attaching points are offset, putting too much stress on the bolts. What to do? The removal of the carpet under the track was out of question; I should have removed the whole carpet but the door scuff plates were glued on the body and the carpet in sandwiched between the scuff plates and body. I did 4 spacers and began again the installation. I just saw that with the spacers the studs were now too short. OK, 4 new longer studs are quickly made. With longer studs the pre-installation of the seat should be easier because I could more or less see the holes on the floor, but it was not! One stud had no envy to go where I wanted, even with some persuasion and chosen words. Finally I was stronger and I could install the bolts. Success! Well, not exactly: the seat was lower on one side. Nevertheless, I tried to install the seat motor. It is attached to the floor with 4 nuts. 2 went well, but 2 could not be screwed in most probably because too much paint was on the thread.

The seat had to come out once again. This time, I checked the distance between the attaching points; it was about 1 mm too narrow, maybe the frame was deformed when I tried to insert the studs. I did the correction which was easy as all was soft soldered. At the same time, I cleaned the threads for the motor.

New tentative: the studs can now be inserted with ease and the motor is now correctly attached. I had the pleasure to see that the seat was functioning; the seat was at the same “altitude” on both sides, but it was crooked! The seat came out again, but the motor stayed in place. I corrected the tracks to have them square and installed the seat again. Once the connecting rod from the motor was definitively attached to the seat, I could close that chapter!

Finally, I put the decal representing the patent plate (Fomoco designation).

 

Practically, the main body is ready with the exception of the windshield and back window, plus the associated chromed parts. The next step will be the inserting of the door strap links, if I can do that. It will be similar to catch a fly with closed eyes: the hole for the shaft is barely visible; see the arrow at the last picture. Maybe I will have to plan a long installation time!

1036 Front carpet.JPG

1037 Rear seat installed.JPG

1038 With front seat.JPG

1039 Front seat.JPG

1040 Patent plate.JPG

1041 Tight space.JPG

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Amazing. I may have missed this, but where are the batteries located for the power parts?

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Previously, I told that the curent will be supplied by external batteries through the filler pipe from the tank. This is how I can test the electrical part. As that device is rather crude for the moment, I did not show it. Later, when it will look better than now!

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Roger

You are the best and I can almost see the light at the end of the tunnel. Your build has just about come to a close and it has all been exciting seeing you overcome one obstacle after another. Nothing stopped you even time and we were ably to enjoy it all. I am kind of regretting the completion but for you one more masterpiece down. Most beautiful works.

Nelson 

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I am what I am, not the best! You are right, the end of the tunnel is near. Yesterday, I had the first try to insert the pin at one of both drag links. It just disappear behind the "A" pillar!

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Frankly, I was not very optimistic about the strap links. To maximise the chance of success, I did a cone at the pin to facilitate the insertion, assuming that the hole from the link would more or less align with the ones from the pillar. I also silver soldered a strap at the other end of the pin for the same purpose. After a while, the pin & strap disappeared into the pillar! It will stay here: to rescue it, I should remove the dash, which is out of question.

I did a new pin and strap, this time longer as to be able to guide it with the hand. On the RH side, I could see the link when I illuminating the place with a torch. After a while and many tentatives, the pin went into the catch! I cut the excess from the strap and glued the remaining to the body. It was time to go to the other side. Even if I tried to construct the body the same way both sides, I saw nothing at the LH hole. After some hours, suddenly the pin went into the link! Again, some glue secured the strap. The LH is less effective than the RH; anyway, now I can have open doors without holding them. And, as intended, the doors are held at two distinct positions as you can see on the pictures.

Now, I can “play” with the front clip.

1042 max opening.JPG

1043 medium opening.JPG

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Well...I put the car upside down and shuttled it. Nothing came out, but it's not the first time. Usually there are nuts or screws which disappear! It's like a real car: usually, the owner or mechanics find later strange things!

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Without the front clip, the model is looking far away from completion. To change this look dramatically, I just had to add the hood and both front fenders. To add some stability, the lower air deflector was installed. I did know that it was a tight fit around the radiator cradle and frame; this time I had to use some persuasion to get it in place. Later I understood why: on the sides, it must go under the fender construction; I managed to put it on top of that lip! I saw that when I wanted to install the screws at the flange: they were not at all aligned. Fortunately, with some more persuasion, the air deflector came out. Once correctly guided, it went in place without problem; I just had to repair the black paint which was damaged during the wrong installation process.

The exhaust tubes are also installed; could I now install the grille and front bumper? No, I must first do the missing hoses for the air conditioning system. The fresh air tube for the air cleaner was done since a long time; unfortunately, it’s too short! It will not takes weeks or months to do another one; I just don’t understand why I did not it longer than necessary and cut the excess…

 

 

1044 Assembly.JPG

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I wonder whether the only way someone will appreciate the detail in your work is if this beautiful model is displayed in a cabinet in a "broken down" situation, perhaps raised on the jack with the bonnet/hood raised, one hub cap loose and a wheel removed as though there was a puncture.

I was looking at the wheel centres and the mounting studs, thinking that nobody will ever see what's behind the hub caps...

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That's the problem with a "modern" vehicle, compared to one till the thirties where most mechanical aspects/features were not covered by the body. Indeed, here, with just the body and seats inside, it would do the same effect with much less hours (or years) spent. As somebody once wrote, nobody will know each detail except the one who build it.

Most scale model builders do cars from the twenties or thirties, probably because the work can be seen.

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Roger

I had to grab some of your words from your last response.

Quote: "As somebody once wrote, nobody will know each detail except the one who build it."

Not exactly true look at the installation of the air deflector. That part was made some time ago and reassembling it is easy to put things on in wrong order or position.

Please do not take my reply wrong, we are all human. Your Continental has had my adoration for years. A superb job done well. I'll be sad to see it sitting in a showcase but for you a journey almost complete.

Thank you for sharing all your procedures and how one man can be so gifted.

Nelson   

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Well, Nelson, my words were probably not reflecting my thinking: I know what is under this or that, but I have to study and look at older pictures how exactly this or that element is installed. One point I have often trouble: which screws are used? 0.5 or 0.6mm? Or maybe 0.7? If I was wise enough to write it down at my sketches, it's easy. Unfortunately, I too often forget that small detail (or I did a change during the construction). Something I had problems too: which is the correct assembly order? For example: I wanted to install the A/C condenser on the radiator cradle before the air deflector because I could insert the A/C lines with ease. Not good: there are 3 screws which must be installed before the condenser can be installed. And so on... 

Anyway, thanks for the kind words!

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A nasty cold let me down for 10 days; fortunately, as I’m almost finished with the model, I did not care too much. When I got better, I could begin the last few hoses for the A/C. 2 are done, one still has to go. To install the one going from the compressor to the condenser, I had to remove the panel holding the hood lock. The first picture from this serie is showing the condenser before panel and grille will hide it. I imagined that the installation of this panel and grille would go in 5 minutes. Oh naïve I’m! Something was jamming: the “horns” from the lower grille molding were preventing the grill to go high enough. When the grille and panel were attached with a few bolts, the assembly pushed the front clip on one side, the hood was not closing properly…I had to remove the lower molding from the grille and see what happens: all good! When presenting the molding to the installed grille, I saw that some holes were no more aligned. I suppose that the several coats of paint are thick enough to upset the original fitting.

To elongate the holes was not a big deal, that place is unseen. Once the grille and upper panel were definitively assembled with 10 bolts, I could attach the modified molding with 10 more screws. This time, the support I did long ago was very helpful: the model is not moving during the assembly and the paint well protected.

With the car upside-down, it was the opportunity to install the front bumper. Fortunately, I prepared long before a tool to tighten the nuts; it was also used for the rear bumper.

A last task had to be done before the car is back on its wheels: connect the parking lamps with the headlamps. As the frame and bumper supports had a good coat of paint, I was not sure it the circuit for the parking lamps would be closed; fortunately, it was! OK, the illumination is rather weak; it’s just for the show.

The last picture is showing how the model is getting the current: through the filler tube…Not very spectacular, but again, it’s just for the show.

 

 

1045 last view.JPG

1046 finishing the grille.JPG

1047 Front bumper installed.JPG

1048 Light.JPG

1049 getting the juice.JPG

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