Roger Zimmermann

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

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In one forum I got the constructive critic that the cover for the spare wheel was too shiny. It was that way because I wanted to spare the associated work by spraying the paint with the airbrush and applied the paint with …a brush. The paint was thicker and, therefore shiny. As there were other unpleasant issues with that cover, I did a new one, using thicker leather. The result is more pleasant and the shine more realistic.

1016 new spare wheel cover.JPG

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Would never has thought it would be such a dramatic difference and certainly never noticed anything at all wrong with the first one.  With the two posts close together, however, the difference is clear.  The really great craftsman and artists are the ones that can see their work through other eyes and take something that is already great and make it even better.  More fantastic work Roger!

 

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Roger,

Great looking spare cover.  One question.  Are you going to make the jack and handle and label for the inside of the trunk lid?

 

I was wondering (on the 1:1 Continental) where they had the jack and handle strapped inside the trunk?  Was in in the fender pocket on the side or up on the back shelf?

Anyway, I am sure that you have been thinking about that issue.  The model has so many features, I did not know if the jack and handle were on your "radar".  Also, where was the trunk light mounted?  On the trunk lid or on the side? Or did they have one?  

 

Randy

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Thanks Jeff! Honestly, without that comment from a scale model forum, I would have let it that way. I do appreciate critics when justified and I don't regret to have done a second one (the fist one is free for somebody wanted to make a Mark II scale model!). I was lucky too, because it's not unusual that the second part is worse than the first one. the thicker leather was most certainly beneficial.

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3 minutes ago, Randiego said:

Roger,

Great looking spare cover.  One question.  Are you going to make the jack and handle and label for the inside of the trunk lid?

 

I was wondering (on the 1:1 Continental) where they had the jack and handle strapped inside the trunk?  Was in in the fender pocket on the side or up on the back shelf?

Anyway, I am sure that you have been thinking about that issue.  The model has so many features, I did not know if the jack and handle were on your "radar".  Also, where was the trunk light mounted?  On the trunk lid or on the side? Or did they have one?  

 

Randy

Thanks Randy! Yes, when all is done, I will do that terrific jack. I did not event thought about the label; I have to search in my pictures if I see one. As I gave recently an order for decals, it may be too late as I will be away for some time.

The bumper jack was installed on the side of the RH rear fender and also just behind the spare wheel, flat on the floor. I don't remember right now which version was the first one. Mine will be place behind the spare wheel. There is a hook at wich the jack is attached; I skipped the hook for practical reason and I will find a method to secure the jack.

There is a lamp inside the trunk; it is installed on the cover allowing access to the lid lock. As I will certainly redo the exterior emblem at the trunk lid, this cover is not yet installed. Of course, my lamp is a dummy one.

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Since a very long time, the LH front fender had a bad paint, because when I sanded to clear coat to eliminate some imperfections, I went too far and sanded the color coat.  Later, I wanted to paint that fender, but I got various steps like I had the first time I painted the body; this was awful. I sanded the whole surface and put it on side. As I’m waiting for the decals from the dash, I reluctantly attempted to paint that fender. If the color coat went well, as usual, I sprayed too much clear coat and got runs. Fortunately, when completely dry, the runs can be sanded and polished. I noticed also that the various steps did not appear again; I assume that after the paint can dry for several weeks/months, the fresh paint has no more influence on the base.

The day before, I attempted to install the dashboard to check if it still can be installed. I had one unforeseen problem: the glove box could not be closed! Why? One screw attaching the box for the relays at the firewall prevented the closing of the glove box! The protruding screw was grinded, excess paint at the back of the glove box was removed; a further attempt to install the dashboard was positive.

To have some braking effect with the emergency brake, I shortened by 3mm the wire emerging from the firewall. When the brake handle is pulled completely, I have some braking at both rear wheels. As I still don’t know if that handle will be reachable once the steering wheel and door are installed, this correction was done uniquely to be able to say “yes, the emergency brake is functioning!”

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Some time ago, I ordered the last decals for the instrument cluster. When the decals are available, I can finish the dash assembly and install it into the car.  I realized that the wiring for the RH door must be finished first because, once the dash is installed, the wiring for that door will be hidden behind the RH kick panel which is integrated into the dash. The question was what is the best routing to choose for the wiring which must be connected with the master window switch from the LH door? At first, I wanted to route it on the floor; finally, I choose the solution to route it right under the dash. This solution prevents a mess on the floor and tunnel with 5 more wires but the door must be pre-installed on the car before I’m assembling the dash! The door will lie near the body, the wiring inserted at the right place and the dash installed. Why can I not install the door first? Because I need the room to attach the various screws. The wires for the lamps must also be routed at the same time.

It was also obvious that the carpet on the RH side and on the tunnel at the front must be installed before the dash. As the LH kick panel is installed separately, I will have the access to the LH wires once the dash is in the car. Once the wiring is finished, the carpet on the LH side will be continued. Are you confused? Me too!

As you can see, this last step is complex; I hope I can connect all the wires properly.

 

I took also a decision: the chrome plates on the “B” pillar will not be used. They are not very nice and they do interfere with the door as I remarked during a test.

1017 carpet installation.JPG

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This is a really great view of the car with the motors for the rear windows just visible where the rear seats will be.  It does put the effort required to work in 1:12 into a wonderful spotlight... all of the amazing detail that looks so natural is made even more unbelievable when you see the size of the motors!!!  I mean those little motors are tiny and the look HUGE sitting in the car.   That gives you a much better perspective of the work required to do the ash tray on the arm rest that looks perfectly normal until you see it is just a *fraction* of the size of the otherwise tiny motor.   The solder joint is bigger than the ash tray!!!  The door latches are smaller as well.   Just amazing work.

 

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Thanks Jeff! You resumed the situation perfectly with just one small error: what you see on the quarter arm rest is not an ash tray but the bezel for the window switch! The ash tray for the rear passenger is located at the end of both door's arm rests

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Roger, your work is only surpassed by the patience you exhibit. Seeing a difficulty  with the right side door's wire routing now (as if I'd ever have got to here), would have me swearing, packing it all up in a 'forget me' box for the top shelf in the closet. Then, more swearing and banging stuff around for the rest of the day.haha. You, sir are a wonderful reminder for us to keep our eye on the goal. Now, where did I put that rear main bearing shell? I know I saw it last week....................

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Thanks SiliconS and Pat! About searching for parts: you are not alone; sometimes I'm spending a lot of time to search parts I remember I did it (or them)! It was also the case when I restored my cars scale 1:1: some of those parts just disappear like that!

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 Roger, I just don't what to say! The work you do is just amazing! I'm like so many others, I look forward to your updates, and especially the pictures you post.

 Keith

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Thanks Keith!

Recently, I took a decision: I will redo the trunk lid ornament. Those unequal fields are disturbing more and more. Have a look at the picture: the upper distance from horizontal bar to the circle is 3.5mm, the distance under is 4mm! Why did I not see it wile going the part? Some blindness I suppose...

I don't even remember how I did that part, especially the odd shape by the lock ; I only remember that it was difficult to do. Fortunately, I can save the head hiding the lock.

DSC00602.JPG

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I know that feeling all to well. I have re done many projects just because of something that doesn't look or come out the way I wanted it to.  You will over come it and will be able sleep better once it's fixed.  Outstanding work as always Roger.

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No, no, SiliconS, it the picture from my own emblem! As usual, I'm forgetting to put a coin!

 

The memory is a strange thing: before I began the new ornament, I could not remember how the first emblem was done. While “playing” with the second one, the “click” came: I just took 3 pieces of brass large and thick enough to have enough material to file away to get the desired shape. This time I did differently: I prepared the horizontal bar and gave its definitive shape. Then it was the turn to the vertical one. Finally, I did grooves into both parts to have an as perfect as possible fit. As I’m using that fantastic silver solder paste, if a void is too large, the result will be compromised. Joining both parts went well, no rework at the joints were necessary; however, the cross is not yet ready: a tiny part, the one behind the helmet, had to be done separately for practical reasons. More grooves and fitting were performed until I was satisfied. The soldering paste came once more in action; the attached picture is showing the cross without any rework after the soldering; a good polishing will be needed to remove the residues and discoloration on the brass.

Compared to the old cross, the emerging vertical bars have the same length when measured from the horizontal bar’s edges.

The next steps are more grooves to have the décor support fitted, plus another four grooves for the circle.

 

 

1018 new emblem.JPG

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Roger

It has been too long since I visited and you have made some great accomplishments. You are one of the masters, if I did not see it growing before my eyes over the 8 plus years I would not believe. That car is almost ready to take for a ride. Now all we need to do is figure how to shrink ourselves down to scale. That is impossible but it sure is looking good. Very, very very nice, you just finish that one of a kind because people like me will drool over it and how wonderfully it was made in miniature. My hat is off to you. March 2010 just seems like yesterday but my body knows different. 

Best wishes on the completion.

Nelson

 

one fine looking ride 

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