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Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12


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It has Pertronix.

That's the right answer!

More seriously, the cap is not removable as the latches are soft welded at the bottom of the main body. It was the last operation; I was glad that it went without metting the other tiny elements which are soft soldered too. It will complicate the paint process as the cap and body have a different color, but I will survive!

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As I was tired from tiny bits of brass soldered on another part itself already soft soldered on another bit, I decided the time was coming to do something really simple: hubs and drums.

I began with the front hubs and spindles. As some dimensions are still missing, I can not finish the spindles yet, the flanges are still untouched.

Over the years, I noticed that brass on brass movement was not very reliable; too much play is the result. As the model will not be motorized but just be a push mobile from time to time (for example by the 3-year kid of the neighbour assisted by his 2-years old sister?), miniature ball bearings were not an option like I have on the Toronado model. Therefore, I did some mild steel bearings forced into the hubs.

Then, I began the rear drums. There is a lot of machine work, but for once there is a simple form, not like the rear Studebaker drums with transverse fins.

The last picture is showing the front drums, more exactly, the huge piece of brass needed!

The holes for the studs are not yet done, they will be bored when all related parts are finished, also the flanges for the rear axles. It should happens this week-end.

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All four are now ready, with the corresponding hub. The real rear hubs are forged with the axle shaft; for the model, a short shaft will be soft soldered to the hub when it will be the turn of the rear axle.

I simulated a silencer spring on one rear drum with an O-ring. I will have to choose O-rings with a taller section.

Now, I will begin a simplified carburator; it will more or less look like a Holley, but not in all details as it will be mostly unseen.

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ok so ive been watching your incredible build, and i have to ask what is probably a stupid question but how are you making the non round parts such as the engine and distributor? are you casting them with a mold? :confused:

There is no stupid question, maybe a stupid answer! Casting? It would be nice , but I don't have the equipment. Some parts would look more "real" with casting.

If you go a little back in this thread, you will see how I did the engine, with flat brass, brazed together. The ground shape of the distributor is easy, it's round! For the cap, I bored 8 holes into the cap's general shape and inserted 8 machined parts figuring the plots. On the side of the distributor there is a provision for the mechanical tachometer. There were 3 rather small parts which have to be held on a round shaft; it was not the simplest task. (no, the model will have no functionning tachometer!)

Each complicated part has to be decomposed in rather easy elements brazed or soft welded together. Of course, with a computer controlled milling machine, no problem, you just have to write a program and let's go! Fortunately, I have no such machine!

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wow, thats simple amazing. you my friend are a god. you should do a '50s flat fender power wagon someday too i would love to follow that build as well.

Me a god? I don't believe...Have a look below, gods are not so looking!

I don't know exactly what a '50s flat fender power wagon is; we could discuss about it in 9 or 10 years, the time for me to finish the Mark II!

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This is to illustrate my comments about how difficult parts are done. I'm begining the carburator; Holleys are really complex. Impossible to do with one piece of brass; I'm trying to find the simple elements. 2 are obvious: the carb base and the air cleaner base. By looking at pictures, I saw the "in between" can be done as cylinders, with some rework.

The first picture is showing the separate parts and the second one when all is brazed together. The holes on the air cleaner's base are for small screws to hold the cylinders prior to brazing. Another one was temporary added at the carb base. After brazing, the screws are removed.

Now, some details will be added, either brazed or soft soldered.

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The progress to the carb went quicker as anticipated. The throttle body is finished; I have to do now the accessories like throttle levers, choke and the secondary diaphragm housing.

The dashpot is done and, while doing the bores for the idle screws, I broke one .5 mm drill (.02"); I spend some time to extract the remainings of the drill...

The cylinder above the throttle body is just here to held the air cleaner. As this part is not to be seen, it will remain that way.

The nuts on the dashpot are almost out of proportion; maybe I will do them thinner.

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Roger,

Do you work with just your eyes or do you use brain surgeon eyepieces?

Just my eyes and a little help from a magnifying glass like on the picture below!

I admit that a more fancy equipement would help from time to time, but I'm accustomed to work that way.

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But it will not be the nicest part of the model. Oddly shape, too many details in a small volume and lack of motivation as most will be unseen. During the construction, that thing looked more like an hedgehog than a carb...Fortunately, the external accessories are improving the look. A little paint would be good too, but it's too early.

With the number of hours spent for that assembly, I could have done the half of the frame...

Now, I can finish the front of the air cleaner. There is also a recession at the back for the giraffe (the official name is: Automatic transmission control linkage); as the giraffe is not yet born, this will be done later.

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After the nightmare with the carb, I did easy things: the front of the air cleaner was finished and after that, I began the fan. As most '56 Mak II with A/C have nice nostrils on the rear quarters, my model will have A/C; therefore I had to choose the correct fan. Cars without A/C have a 5-blade fan; cars with A/C have 6 blades. The shape of the blades is also different, as well as the outside diameter of the fan.

The blades of "my" fan are also held by rivets, like the original fans. No glue, no solder, just four .5 mm (.02") rivets in copper per blade. The whole trick is to determine the proper length of the copper wire; for my application 1.5 mm (.06") was ideal. Once a "rivet" is inserted in the hole, a hammer blow on a prepared piece of brass with a very small hammer is sufficient to secure the assembly as copper is very soft. I would not let run this fan at 10'000 RPM, but for my application the joint is strong enough. I forgot probably to mention that all pulleys will be rotating (that my child's side) and a weak blast of air let turn the fan.

The inserted pictures are showing the engine as is now (without the oil pan); do you see something from the carb?

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Roger,

That is just amazing work. I've had several scale die cast models and still have one and I thought that when I lifted the hood it looked amazing. There is no comparison what so ever to what you have done here and I would be that much more proud if it had an engine that was detailed any where near this. Great work. Scott...

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Roger,

That is just amazing work. I've had several scale die cast models and still have one and I thought that when I lifted the hood it looked amazing. There is no comparison what so ever to what you have done here and I would be that much more proud if it had an engine that was detailed any where near this. Great work. Scott...

Thank you Scott!

Are you not yet in bed or already up? You are right: there is no comparaison between a die cast model and that; the time spent is not exactly the same either! I have a Mark II model from Franklin Mint; one exhaust manifold is not cemented properly and the details in general are modest. The scale is different: 1:24 for the Franklin Mint, 1:12 for mine. In the scale 1:24, I could not show so many details; the end result would be probably be above the models from the stores, but not much.

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It looks that way on the first attached picture! This is just the beginning of the exhaust manifold. The LH completed one can be seen on the second picture.

Are those exhaust manifolds easy to do? At first glance yes, but with my basic measures I had, there were more questions than answers. If the manifolds are too high or too wide does not matter much because there is enough space around the engine.

The sole detail which is really important is the location of the outlet flange! As the pipes are going through the inner front fenders, this location is rather critical. I hope to be within 1/32" (which in reality is translated by 3/8") of the real dimension; I suppose that I will have anyway to play a little bit with the shape on the inner fender to suit my requirements...

Another difficulty with the manifold's construction is the rear: the outlet is at 90° and the form is going from square to round...

At fist, I intended to do the manifolds from a large piece of brass; at the end, I'm doing them with flat brass for 2 reasons:

- weight: if I don't want the model to be 10 pounds heavy, I have to reduce the weight where I can

- form: as I was in the blue, I can do what I know and progress until the final shape is almost there; much more difficult with a large piece of brass

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....because the RH manifold is ready. Now, I can continue with the air duct assembly. As this part is a tight fit over the LH exhaust manifold, I had to wait until the manifold was done.

The air duct is a simple sheet metal part with an elbow. I will have to do a form either in brass or wood to shape the part.

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As somebody from the Mark II forum would like to see in detail how I'm doing that duct, I will publish on this forum the same steps.

First I had to choose a piece of wood, without to make the deforestation problem worse. I can say that this danger is discarded: by looking at the wood's duct, I could hardly heat the whole house next winter when the form will not be needed any more.

As only one part will be done, a soft wood is acceptable; for a small batch, only hard wood would be acceptable.

The wood's form is more or less like the duct I would like to have; the dimensions are reduced to take in account the thickness of the brass. Next to the form is a piece of brass, ready to be hammered on the wood; this will be the upper part of the duct. The quarter dollar will not be hammered; it's just here for the size. As you can see, that part is not large. Why am I not doing it full in brass? Two reasons, at least: the weight. Even if it's a tiny part, the accumulation of too many grams can be a problem for the tires. Then, the duct must be installed on the short piece soldered to the air cleaner. If the duct is solid, I should hollow that part, which is not an easy task. There is a third reason: on the real duct, both halves are welded at a flange; with the solution I choose, the flange will be easy to form.

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Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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With some well placed hammer blows, the first half could be formed. I had to cut at the inside corner; with a strong pattern, this step could be avoid. I will add a small bit of brass and silver solder to the main part. The other side will have the same treatment.

On the second picture, the part is more or less ready; it must be trimmed and the dimensions adjusted. I now can do the other half, probably tomorrow as today I'm opening the season of hard work: I will open a defective '59 Hydramatic for overhauling. This work is not done at home but in my storage room at 10 miles from home.

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The first half has been trimmed; the flange has been silver soldered to it and a small round piece done on the lathe added. This small round piece will help to align the other half with more precision.

The original duct has ears near the air cleaner; by screwing in both screws the duct can be assembled tightly to the air cleaner. Obviously, my construction does not allow that; I had to search for another method: a long screw will go into the air cleaner at the opening and the duct will be tightly assembled with a nut. I'm glad the air cleaner has a separate lid to install the nut!

The picture is showing both halves and the long screw. Once both halves are soft soldered, I will have to do the shroud which is slipped over the exhaust manifold. I don't have to forget to add a stud as a support for the duct like the original part.

3 days ago, I disassembled a 1959 Hydramatic transmission. I have never seen so much sludge in the pan; the oil screen was full of it; no wonder that the car did not move, the oil pump could not get enough oil! Otherwise, the transmission was not bad. Probably the oil has never been changed; it was stinking like an old engine! The car was recently imported from the USA; the maintenance is not taken seriously in that country as I could also see on other freshly imported cars...

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Only the small lever on the side is missing, it will be added later.

As my explanations how I will attach the duct to the air cleaner were probably not very understandable, the first picture is showing it. It's not very nice looking inside the air cleaner, but who cares once it's assembled?

The other pictures are showing the installed assembly.

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  • 2 weeks later...

After the air cleaner duct, it was the turn of the power steering pump. I did first the easy part: the pulley...then, the reservoir and cover, easy parts. The difficulties began with the first support, the one which is attached to the water pump. 3 holes are given, but where to place the other 2? Thanks to the great number of pictures I have, the completed part is looking right.

The second support was another matter: few infos and the drawing in the shop manual is obviously incorrect. As I was totally in the blue, I continued with the next element: the pump body. The shop manual is giving a rather good breakdown of the part and fortunately, last year I had measured the diameter of the reservoir cover.

When the pump body was done, I could come back to the second support, doing it at first in cardboard...Once done in brass, the great moment came: will the pulley of the pump align with the one from the crankshaft? You bet, it did not. I had to modify the thickness of both supports (which was only estimated) until the alignment was correct. The motor will not be functional, but the idea to have misaligned pulleys is against my nature!

Once this detail solved, I could finish the pump. Still missing is the star nut to close the cover; for the moment there is just a too long screw which is just here to avoid loosing the cover.

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After the power steering pump, it would be logical to continue with the A/C compressor. However, this is a tight fit at the front of the engine; this explains why the road draft tube has some indentations. Therefore, I had to do the oil filler and draft tube first.

I will certainly have to add more indentation on the tube when I'm "installing" the compressor but I'm not yet so far. To tell the truth, I have enough for the moment with the myriad of small parts to be added to the basic engine: today, I ordered a large piece of brass to begin the frame; at least something large and easy (maybe) to do!

This will force me to finish the frame drawing I began long ago.

When I was at the draft tube, I did also the tube for the dip stick; this part is different for cars with A/C.

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I was just trying to show my wife a model of a Duesenberg in the photo gallery. She said that ever since I showed her this post, she has been spoiled and nothing else can compare to your work. I totally agree with her!

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I was just trying to show my wife a model of a Duesenberg in the photo gallery. She said that ever since I showed her this post, she has been spoiled and nothing else can compare to your work. I totally agree with her!

You are too kind! I suppose yu were trying to show your wife the 1:6 Duesenberg model with running engine. It's not the same art of work; his creation is nevertheless fantastic.

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The first task I intended to do was the side members. However, I have to do a form in brass to hammer the sheet metal on it. This will be done probably tomorrow; this form will not be done home as I have to bend it; the small hammer I'm using home will not be enough; therefore I will form it where my cars are stored.

I began easy parts: the crossmember (it is in 2 parts) which is on most '56 models and deleted on some '57 ones.

Each half crossmember is dome with 2 pieces of brass .4 mm thick. Some small holes missing; they will be done later.

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What? the picture below is showing the side rails from the frame?

Not exactly: these ugly parts are the form on which the messing will be formed. These parts must first be trimmed before the forming can begin. This will require probably more work that to bend the sheet metal...

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  • 3 weeks later...

After 10 days holiday, I'm back to business, the model and other tasks. Today, I could finish the LH side rail's form.

Why don't use it as is? Again, the weight problem. Then, I may have difficulties to silver solder the cross members as the heat source I have is rather limited. The final aspect is also important: the side members are done as double "U" elements welded together. There is a step between the outer element and the inner one; the part in full could not show it.

Another aspect I still have to confirm: I have the impression that double "U" form is less flexible than a part in full. I will have confirmation when I'm that far as the form will still be available.

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Today, I finished the second frame's form, as well as the die necessary to reproduce the indentation on the side of the frame.

On the picture, a small sample of the side has been done as a test.

Now, the fun will begin, however not at home: I need a larger vice to bend the sheet metal around the forms.

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Do you think that is there for strength or clearance for the exhaust?

It add certainly some flexion strength, but, if you look at the drawings you supplied to me, it's mainly a clearance for the exhaust tubes. Without that, the tubes would just touch the outside surface of the frame. No good for noise and rattles!

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Now that the forms are completed, it's time to continue with the real parts. The indentation on the side was easy to do thanks to a careful preparation; the remaining was bending and bending again...

You will notice on the picture that the side members are not in one piece: my brass sheet was too short! Even with enough length, I had certainly done the side members in 2 pieces for ease of handling.

The rear part of the side members is not yet formed as you can see.

On the top of the picture, there is the cross member on which the rear shock absorbers are fitted. Just below, it's the easier part I have for the frame: the rear cross member just after the tank: it's a straight tube! Of course, there will be 2 bracket silver solder on it to fix the trunk's floor; this will be done when all is installed.

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Last week, I formed the rear parts of the side members and attached them to the front parts. The trick is to silver solder both elements while keeping the general shape. So far, so good.

The inner rail is thicker as the outside one: .5 mm versus .3 mm. If I should do the frame again, I would choose .4 mm for the outside rail: once heated, the thinner one is soft like cheese; this fact is responsible for bad surprises.

The body will be attached to the frame with screws; at the factory, nuts were welded to the inner rail. I cannot do that because of my primitive setting. To overcome the difficulty, I silver soldered a long strip at the upper inner rail. This operation can be seen on one picture.

Then I had to adjust the inner rail to the outside one; when this was done, I inserted small pins to avoid a displacement during the heating process. All went well so far.

To bend .5 mm brass required much more efforts than the .3 mm; therefore I decided to do the inner rail in 3 parts. The straight line are not a problem, the curves are!

Halas, the small "in between" part was not fixed properly and shifted during the soldering process. The shape from above was out of line, I had to correct it, creating some damages to the outer surface (it's the bad surprise). To hide it, I had to solder a piece of brass over the damaged section...I just hope that I can avoid that with the second rail.

The last picture is showing the first finished rail and the second one has the first inner part installed.

Before the cross members will be soldered, a good cleaning and finishing will be required.

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