Roger Zimmermann

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12

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16 hours ago, Frank Tate said:

Roger, have you thought about flocking it?  I don't know how thick the adhesive and the flocking fibers are, but I don't think it is that thick.  A quick search found me this site:  https://www.craftflocking.com/Buy_Flocking.php

Well, Frank, this is another possibility I never thought about. Thanks for the idea! From what I saw, rather easy to apply; it requires however that the shell must have a nice finish which is not the case right now.

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Benefits of AACA Membership.

Thanks Randy for this other solution. Sound promising! I had no Internet connexion yesterday evening (local time), I did not see your email. You'll get an answer today.

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I expected to have difficulties with the hood emblem: no deception here, I had some! First, I did a major mistake: I took 2 bits of brass, did a groove in the middle, and silver soldered them to have the star basis. All went well until I began with the outer square. If I silver soldered them, the whole star could come apart as the soldering was not 100%. I decided to soft solder it, knowing that the joint is very weak, especially with such small dimensions. I did a wider square, did slots until I could solder the assembly to the star. The principle is shown on the first and second picture (but this is the second emblem); then, the excess metal has to be eliminated until the appropriate thickness is obtained. All went well until one part went away because the joint was effectively too weak. I tried to solder it and, during that process, 2 other parts said good bye! At that moment, I knew that I can do another star, this time with solid material. A new square was then silver soldered and the same process of eliminating the excess brass was performed like the first try. This time all went well; I could then soft solder the base of the emblem.

As you can see on the last picture, the finished emblem on the right is at 90% OK: during the soft soldering, I missed the opportunity to maybe correct a little bit the outside square shape. Fortunately, when put on the hood, this misshapen is barely visible. Doing a third emblem is no guarantee that it will be better, therefore, I let it that way. The part on the left will stay that way as I had too many hours into it to throw it away.

 

 

860 hood emblem.JPG

861 hood emblem.JPG

862 hood emblem.JPG

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AAAmazing!!!!!!  Looking good Roger!

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Some days ago, I bought some cloth. Not satin, but cotton. This afternoon, I experimented with that cloth with the adhesive can I found. Unfortunately, the can is too old; what came out is liquid and lump (if this is the correct word). Anyway, the first attempt is not too bad; I have to improve the lines and buy a new can. The cloth is not snow white; it should be ok with either white/blue trim or white/red trim.

I still hesitate between a blue metallic or anthracite outside color. Years ago, our stores had hundreds of spray cans; now maybe 20 or 30 generic paint are exposed. It will be a problem to find the right (for me) color.

863 tentative.JPG

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Always exciting to see the progress, I even started at the beginning again the other week and gave my self a refresher. As I read through, I see all of the things you've made and I think to my self about the things that amaze me the most, before I know it I've picked everything.

 

Great work as always Roger

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Roger,

The hood ornament looks very good.  Only your eyes will see a flaw.  Once you get the part filed and final sanding and plated, the emblem will look like a million on the hood.

 

The headliner really looks authentic  Like you say, will anybody really be looking up at the headliner once the roof is attached?  I cannot wait to see the car with the exterior painted and peering into the engine bay, looking at  all the detailing.  Very heady stuff Roger.  Excellent ! !

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Thanks for the comments, Paulie and Randy, I appreciate them!

I'm getting nearer to the outside finish: one ce shell from the headliner is ready, I will solder the roof to the body. Then, the fun will begin!

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Another point of no return: after finishing the shell for the headliner, I decided that it was time to solder the roof to the body. I hope that I will not find the hard way that it was too early, but now the door is open to think at the body finishing.

 

 

864 Soldered roof.JPG

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Mount that body to the rotisserie and begin the final bodywork on that Continental!  Are you sure that is not a real body there?

 

 

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3 hours ago, dalef62 said:

 Are you sure that is not a real body there?

 

 

Yes, I'm sure! Have you ever see a body on a desk?

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Roger,

WOW !   I hope that you can get all the interior parts in without too much difficulty.  It sure is easier when you have full access.  But you know what you are doing.  It baffles the mind to know that this car is only 1:12.  From the pictures, if the car was sitting on jack stands and posed in a garage with proper perspective, now way would anyone be the wiser to the actual size of the car due to the intricate detail.  Simply amazing.

How did the headliner come out.  The last pic of the headliner looked pretty good.  Is that the final?  Guess so as the roof is now attached to the body.  My nightmare would be getting over spray on the inside of the headliner.  :-(

I am quite sure that you are very careful with the painting.

 

You say that you are using "rattle can" paint?  No air brush?  (just kidding).   At our local automotive paint store, they can put your special color mix in an aerosol can.  That was not available too long ago.  Now for small jobs, I can get the paint in an aerosol can as it is a pain to clean up my spray gun.  I have to take it all apart and clean it thoroughly or the next time I use it......................  :-(    Nothing like hard encrusted paint to clog a small orifice and stop the function of an expensive  gun.

 

Roger, I am going to attempt to do the body and paint on my 36 Plymouth fenders.  The body shops here are sooooo damn expensive.  I decided to bite the bullet and attempt to do my fenders.  The body of the car is fine.  I just need to do the fenders and the bullet headlight shells.  There is no rust on them but I have to strip off two bad paint jobs.  The last guy didn't do that and the finish is all crazed and unsightly.  Plus he didn't put the welting between the fender and the body.  The headlight "bullet" shells have scratches from previous owners or mechanics that were not deft in proper opening and closing of the hoods on both sides and have scratched and dented (one shell) the shells.  I think that I can do them in place with just removing the lense one the one that I have to knock out the dent and then finish sand and prep them for paint.  They would be a pain to remove from the fender mounts. Those and the fenders.  Probably will take me as much time to do as you have invested in the Continental.   :-)    Kidding.  I just have a few bumps to knock out and the alignment is fine.  I have a brand new high end spray gun that I bought just for this.  Have you ever done any body and paint on your cars?  Wish me luck

 

Randy 

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Randy, I hope too that all the inside parts can be installed without trouble! I tried to make the installation easy keeping in mind that once the roof will be there. I will see...

The picture of the headliner was a trial. the cloth is now gone and I improved the shape at the rear to have a surface less flat between two bows. At due time, the cloth will be glued on the shell as a module, with the inside lamp and A/C vents. Then, it will be definitively attached to the roof, once the model is painted as it will be impossible, if attached now, not to damage the cloth with wet sanding and overspray.

I have an airbrush which is used for the industrial surfacer (the read paint on the body). Obviously, I'm lacking experience with that spray medium as my results are so, so. With a rattle can, I have pretty decent painted surfaces, the mix with thinner is always the right one and no painful cleaning after usage!

When I was working for 2 years in a bodyshop between apprenticeship and technical school, the paint manager let me spray a Citroën 2CV. Well, the car was painted, but I could not say I was very proud!

When I restored my cars scale 1:1, I did the paint of all inner metal parts, engine and trunk compartment as well as the firewall. I would say they are not bad done, without dust inclusion (I was working in a barn) but I let paint the outside by a body shop. Expensive, but I don't regret that expense. If the outside surface is perfect, you will get good results on your '36 Plymouth fenders. You probably know that the paint will not hide surface imperfections , like for chrome plating!

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I am just amazrd by everything that you do. This model looks like the real thing! Excellent work!

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Roger,

 

I would love to see you installing the interior components once the car is painted.   Please post pictures of the step by step of the re installation of the interior parts so we can get an idea as to how you re assemble the car. Man o man, that will be one intricate process with all the little screws holding the parts together.  You MUST have a "shrinking" machine where you step in and step out 1:12 scale to do that job.  :-)   I realize that the windows and doors are not installed but still.............what a job to put all the parts in the car with the roof on.  AND not to scratch the exterior finish while doing so.  This we have got to see.............

 

Randy

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This may have been asked, but have you decided on the final body color?

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To Randy:

Right now, I began the process of finishing the body by correcting the small misshapen not affected by adjacent panels. The body shell should get a new coat of primer soon.

If my planning is not completely erroneous, the installation of the interior should go without major problems, even with the roof. Fortunately, I don't have big hands! I was able to do the same for the Toronado and Avanti (but they are less complex) , I should succeed again, even if I'm getting older!

 

To keiser31:

Last week, I bought a spray can of a blue metallic and dark gray metallic. I will spry the hood with one paint and trunk lid with the other one and make my choice.

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As we enjoy a nice weather since a few days, I decided that it was time to give a new coat of primer on the body as well as on some parts from the dash board. To get at this, I did some panel corrections and I had a bright idea: to wash to body into the dishwasher. I choose the shortest program with the lowest temperature. The result was brilliant: the previous primer coat peeled! Not everywhere, just on exposed elements like the sills and the top of rear fenders. Why? I don't know. I suppose it was the combined action of heat, washer and washer's impact. Heat alone can be discarded: I soft soldered many items on the body by just removing a stripe of primer; even the heat of the soldering iron had no effect at the primer. I will never again use the dishwasher to clean scale model parts!

I sanded the damaged primer and sprayed yesterday a good coat of primer on the body, doors, hood (which fall on the floor during the process), trunk lid and other parts. I came to the conclusion that spray cans are much more convenient to use that an airbrush with 2-k paint!

 

On the pictures, the body is again on the frame: it just more convenient to have it here until the paint is totally cured.

 

 

 

865 painted roof.JPG

866 painted roof.JPG

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Roger, it looks really good.  Will you post your two color choices on pieces of scrap for us to see?  

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Thanks John!

Yes, I will do: the hood and trunk lid will get one color each. To have a correct result, I must first have a decent surface finish from both parts.

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The last few days, I prepared the hood and trunk lid for that paint test. As I can judge, the hood will need very little improvement to be almost perfect; the trunk lid will require more work.

Unfortunately, the paint cans I bought have both rather coarse metallic particles. The colors themselves are not bad, but I will have to search for a finer metallic effect.

Which color do you prefer? Here are my remarks about the colors:

 

Blue: the same paint could be used for the console and glove box, with a satin coat over the blue. Inconvenient: I will have to let prepare paint for the blue leather trim in the same hue.

Dark gray: with that paint, I could use some red leather inside, but I will have to let prepare paint for the console and glove box in the same hue as the leather.

One picture was done with the flash, the other one without it.

 

 

867 hood and trunk.JPG

868 hood and trunk.JPG

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The continental will be beautiful with whichever color you choose. For my personal taste, I would go with the gray and red leather.

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