Jump to content

Construction of a Continental Mark II model, scale 1:12


Recommended Posts

16 hours ago, Spinneyhill said:

Love the colour and I like your choice of newspaper!

Thanks Spinneyhill! You probavly remember that the color's choice was not so easy. It seems I was lucky: most people like it and me too!

The newspaper I used is the sole weekly automotive paper from Switzerland, edited in French and German. As a French speaking guy, I'm getting the thinner (compared to the German issue) French version...but I have enough to mask the kitchen!

Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, countrytravler said:

Did they make a convertible?

 

Officially no. If you read the text from Barry Wolk under the ad, you will understand that Ford let rework two damaged cars as convertibles. Over the time, some body shops converted coupes into convertibles. In short: there were no production convertibles.

Link to post
Share on other sites

The paint drying time is a good opportunity to finish some details, for example the bumpers for the rear axle. I did not do them when I was busy with the frame because the exact location was unknown. Over time, the rear axle U bolts did a marking at the primer; I had therefore the exact location! I wanted to have rubber bumpers; the question was how to let stick the silicone rubber on the mounting plates? I expected that some hooks soldered to the plates would help the rubber to stay in place. Then I did two negative forms (in front of the frame on the picture) and tried to mix a product I have since 40 years: the Stylgard from Dow Corning; which I used to do the Toronado tires. Would it still be good? To my surprise, yes! To facilitate the curing, I heated the mold, rubber and mounting plate to about 100°C for 5 minutes and I got both bumpers.

 

933 axle bumoers.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/19/2018 at 8:14 PM, Reg Bruce said:

Just lobbed in to the page where the firewall etc. have been painted. This is an amazing venture!

Where do I go to get the "back story" on the creation/building of this model?

Thank you.

RB

Go back to page 1 a from March 2010 and start reading. Rodger has a talent of a real craftsman and spot on.

Nelson

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger,

 

Just got out of the Surgery Center here in La Jolla CA yesterday.  I had my right shoulder "overhauled"  He removed a large bone spur and re attached torn ligaments to the rotator cuff.  It should be a painful recovery but ......I am pain free !   My surgeon pioneered (at a much younger age) the arthroscopic surgery procedure back in the late 80's.  He, like you and me, is grey haired and "seasoned" That is why they call it a "Medical Practice"  Always practicing.  :-)  24 hours later, I am typing.  I have a shoulder brace on but my hands are free for typing and use. 

I won't be lifting my arm for a while but when I recover, I will have my arm back as good as new.  Modern Medicine.  Voila.  

 

The rear axle bumpers look great!  Roger, you don't miss any detail.  The steady progress that you are making on the Continental is something that I look forward to every time I log on to AACA.  

 

Randy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Randy, glad you could save your shoulder!

It goes further with details. I’m now at the brake and fuel lines. Those details are time consuming, will be unseen unless the model is on the roof. I noticed that I need both frame and body to check for the clearance; it’s better to do those details now, before the body is painted. The A(C lines will also be added, otherwise the dryer attached to the frame will be a non-sense.

I will also add the large vacuum hoses; the small ones will be skipped.

 

The “large” long black hose emerging from the frame will be shortened in due time; it’s the hose connecting the booster/master cylinder to the outlet fitting. The line in the background in the first picture is a failed tentative.

 

934 brake main line.JPG

935 Brake line.JPG

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep Randy, mos will be unseen, but I have the feeling I have to add them.

After the fuel line, I’m adding some A/C lines. For that, I had to temporary attach the front fender to the frame as well as the radiator, condenser and receiver/drier. I can continue the small line going from the other end of the receiver to the rear of the body; I will have to go next week in town to buy larger diameter rods for the A/C (I hate to go in town!).

The lines I’m doing are similar to the real ones; their shape can differ a bit because I have to do them to fit the model.

 

936 More lines.JPG

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

As the weather was not too bad, I went in the town to buy some brass, rubber cords and Coltogum (a black rubber-like product to make the various belts). I could finish the A/C lines; I’m glad I did that before painting the frame: I had to drill holes to attach the lines (brake, fuel and A/C) and manipulate the frame a number of times to have the lines right; the body was also involved to check the clearance.

One brake line is still missing: the one at the rear axle. This is the next job; after that, I probably be ready to paint the rear suspension/axle.

After the picture was done, all lines got into a chemical bath; they are now covered with a thin coat of tin.

937 AC lines.JPG

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 1/21/2018 at 4:25 AM, Roger Zimmermann said:

Officially no. If you read the text from Barry Wolk under the ad, you will understand that Ford let rework two damaged cars as convertibles. Over the time, some body shops converted coupes into convertibles. In short: there were no production convertibles.

i understand that there was one factory built as a convertible for the personal use of henry ford ll.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger,

Interesting that tin can be applied at home.  Is it an electrostatic application or is it just a "bath" that applies tin via immersion?  Are you using "clips" to hold the lines to the frame?  If so, are they like the factory clips?  

 

Randy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Indeed, it's just a bath. The parts must be immersed for 1 minute and they are getting that coating. It's like magic!

The lines are held with clips pushed into holes in the frame. I don't know how the factory clips are looking; anyway, I had to think practically v/s correctness: some lines are soft soldered to my clips for simplification and good routing.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Another sub-assembly is ready: the rear axle. Before painting, the brake lines have been fabricated as well as the emergency brake cable. Due to a wrong interpretation from a picture, I had already done since years the cable, but in 2 pieces. I realized my error as the cable is not attached to the equalizer, but is going from one wheel to the other through that equalizer.

Now, everything is grease and assembled; the emergency brake is functioning. It is not sure it will be operable from inside the car because the cable is doing a sharp curve over a pulley at the firewall; the cable is probably too stiff.

I began also to paint all the small pieces which are ready like the booster/master cylinder, battery tray with the battery, and so on. Tedious, but rewarding.

 

938 rear axle.JPG

  • Like 5
Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger

I have been following your build for few years now and I am always amazed at your talent and extreme attention to detail. Have you ever considered building a rotisserie for your project? With your chassis and or body mounted on a rotisserie and photographed  in front of a garage or auto shop no one would be able to tell that this is a 1/12 scale Continental .

Alex D.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Alex, thanks for your kind comments! I'm in fact using an art support for some work (See the picture), but we are far away from a rotisserie. Indeed, I never thought at that possibility; even if such a construction would not take too much time, it's not my goal.

735 Support.JPG

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
42 minutes ago, keiser31 said:

HOLY MOLY! There is absolutely nothing on that model that would lead me to doubt that it is a real, full scale car except for the table it is on.

How do we really know it's just a table top. Haven't seen that quarter in awhile. 

The amazing things that Roger does, he could be fooling us all and it's really a full size car. ;)

  • Haha 3
Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger,

 

Your rear end assembly is just like the  "real deal".  Right down to the emergency brake cable.  Making it a "functioning" cable which can be (if the wire isn't too stiff) just goes over the edge !  I am imagining stepping on the E brake pedal and the cable is pulled.  Just toooooooooooo much! 

 

Amazing.  Everything on this model is just like the 1:1 car, only in miniature, with all of the detail.   Some day, this car,  the Avanit and the Toronado  need to go into a museum where all can see these masterpieces.  Unless an individual were following this thread, there would be no comprehension of how this model came to be.  SO MUCH DETAIL and effort to produce the parts.  Body men at paint and body shops have a hard enough time doing 1:1 cars, forming and shaping fenders, hoods, rocker and quarter panels and other parts,  but doing it in 1:12 is absolutely an amazement that really is  a loftier work of art. 

 

Roger, what planet are you on loan from?  Because this work is truly "out of this world".     

 

Randy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger,

 

Look into SURGICAL Cable that is used by Orthopedic Surgeons.  My father, an orthopedic surgeon,  did operations that required very small cable.  I later used it on some of my model making.  It is strong but very pliant.  I am sure that you have a lot of sources for materials and you may have researched this type of cable.  As a matter of fact, if I recall, it was made in Switzerland. Now it may be made in many different countries.  It  came on a spool in different MM thicknesses.  If you know a surgeon in your area, I am sure that he (or she) can shed some light on the type of cable I am talking about. Just a thought.

 

Randy

Link to post
Share on other sites

Wow! So many comments because of a little bit paint! Sorry about the quarter: I just forget to place it because now, most of the parts or elements I'm picturing are already here unpainted. For the next picture, I had the feeling it was necessary, especially for Randy: as you can see on that picture, the cable coming from the firewall is making a turn of about 90° to go down to a lever. The pulley at the end if that assembly has a diameter of 3.5 mm (0.137") and the cable is not quite willing to follow that small radius. I ignore if that surgical cable would be more compliant; further is must be soft soldered at the end of the chromed handle. If the e-brake would be absolutely necessary, I may think twice about that.

all three models have an e-brake; as the handle is near the center console on the Avanti, it cannot be used. On the Toronado, the brake is actuated by a pedal, like the original. And this system is working without problem since years. On that model, it was necessary: as the idea was to motorize the car with an electric motor, I put ball bearings at all wheels. If a table is not perfectly horizontal, the model is moving...That e-brake is released like the right car with a lever. As pedal and lever are on the left side near the kick panel, their utilisation is quite easy.

I'm also adding a small picture from the Toronado model to show e-brake pedal (hardly visible) and the release lever.

Hand brake lever.JPG

Tableau de bord.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

For 2 weeks, on February first, I got a laser treatment to my right eye, to remove the effect of a secondary cataract. Since some time, I had a bad eye sight, especially during driving. By closing the left eye, I had the impression that there was a very heavy fog and I had the feeling that the left eye had the normal vision. After the intervention, it was almost like night and day! Now, I realize that the left eye has not a so good vision than the right one and I may treat that eye too in a not so distant future.

Usually, I don’t relate here my little health problems, but this one had an influence on the model: before the intervention, I prepared the body as well as I could. Now, I’m seeing several flaws which need a correction…Another reason for the issues was probably not enough time to let dry the various products I’m using. Now, I’m back to the body preparation…

Edited by Roger Zimmermann
spelling (see edit history)
  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for the wishes! This kind of intervention is giving results almost immediately and is painless. On the other side, cataract surgery (by replacing the aged lenses which I had 4 years ago) is more risky; one of 1000 may get bad.

Dileep, unfortunately you will not see more models: I decided this one is the last one.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Roger,

 

That shot of the Toronado.......Unless you look closely at the upholstery, there is NO Clue that this is a 1:12 model.  The dash, steering wheel, console is so realistic.  I can just imagine how the Continental will look when finished.  Glad that you got your eye tended to.  It is great to see clearly.  We take that for granted until we don't have that ability any longer.  My mom got her cataracts removed  when she was 75.  THREW HER GLASSES AWAY ! !  Modern Medicine.

 

Randy 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Dileep for your comments. I don't know Pere Terrago; there are many builders I ignore that they exist!

Yep Randy: the upholstery is usually never quite right: the leather's grain is too coarse, this is evident especially on pictures.

 

The body work is an on/off job, waiting that the surfacer is drying. I got a lot of issues; I don’t know they are the result of my eyesight or not enough time to let dry the products. During the drying time, I’m doing small jobs, like the belts for the engine. The Mark II with A/C has 3 belts; I did a mold for them by turning some wax. The end result is not what I expected; the Coltogum is too elastic to pretend to be a belt. I could find O rings with the proper length, but then they have a too large section.

Then I did the antenna. In my opinion, the Mark II antenna is a bad design: when the antenna is fully retracted, the tip is still at 18” from the base. I choose to replicate the antenna when retracted; for that I took a pin and reduce the tip to be better, but not perfect, in scale. The “mast” is screwed into the base; it will be installed as a last item.

You remember probably that the second tentative to have the letters “Continental” went bad. Now, I soft soldered each letter on a strip of brass with a minimum of solder; I hope that this tentative will be the last one. The letter “N” at the end of each word is a spare letter. The antenna base will get chromed too.

 

 

939 Belts.JPG

940 Antenna.JPG

941 Last batch.JPG

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Still working on the body. During the curing time, I’m searching things to do. I decided to make the rubber bumps at the front A-arms. The massive rectangular ones are rubber; the small round one is brass and small enough the rubber bumpers will contact the frame first. While at that, I painted the front suspension elements. They are now pre-assembled to the frame when it will be painted.

Tried also to glue the cloth to the headliner structure. The result is not too bad. The excess cloth will be trimmed in due time.

 

 

942 A arm.JPG

943 Headliner.JPG

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like the real roof and A arm! Unbelievable! If I had not seen this thread for myself, I couldn't imagine the detail this car has. Thank you, Roger for sharing your skillful work!

Link to post
Share on other sites

And now that your naked eye is corrected, I am  sure that the caster, camber and toe in will be.........................EXACT.   (as is the rest of the model).  

  • Haha 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...