Roger Zimmermann Posted December 10, 2015 Author Share Posted December 10, 2015 For about 2 weeks, I had hopes that the LH lower bumper element would be an easy part; it was not. I had the dimensions from the other part, but I could not get the right shape. Finally, I had to cut the inner side of the bumper end and begin again. This time, the hammer blows were right and I could terminate the lower part. I did also holes and apertures and the lamp for the license plate and the outlet tubes for the exhaust. On the real car, the outlet tubes are the same for both sides; I had to adapt mines to the existing situation and they are not interchangeable.On many pictures from real cars, the rear bumper’s sides are not horizontal, giving an ungainly appearance (or maybe it must be that way). In fact, as the bumper’s supports are welded to the lower bar, it must be very difficult to have the right stance plus an acceptable gap between body and bumper.There is a “U” welded to each bumper support; at first I thought that it was some repair but I saw the same detail on other cars. Suddenly, the light came: this welded rod is acting as a pocket for the bumper jack. It can be seen on the model on the last picture.Just for the fun, I installed the RH tail lamp; the tail lens must be red of course; it will be done later. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Byrd Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Sill amazing sir.... And beautiful ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Thanks John! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 Amazing and stunning!It would look nice as a convertible. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Amazing and stunning!It would look nice as a convertible.Thanks Bleach! I agree with you regarding the convertible look, but the roof is done and will be soldered in due time... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted December 11, 2015 Share Posted December 11, 2015 You could make it with a removable top or if it's not too late, maybe consider a retractable design as was once considered by the original designers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 11, 2015 Author Share Posted December 11, 2015 Sorry, no. As the car was not born as a convertible (OK, some are existing, hello Barry!), I stay with the closed coupe. For the retractable, I don't even think about it! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 12, 2015 Author Share Posted December 12, 2015 Each time I had to work at the underside, like installing the bumpers, I had the model upside down on my legs. Not very wise, especially when a nut is falling on the floor! To correct the situation, I did this afternoon a support with 3 pieces of wood and thick felt. I will be usable too when the model will be painted to assemble the tank, bumpers and all the small details which will be done during the final assembly.Yes, the roof is on the model, on a temporary basis as I had to check for the clearance. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted December 13, 2015 Share Posted December 13, 2015 Roger, at what point will you start the painting process? Do you use an airbrush or very narrow paint brushes? Finally, what will you use for paint? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 13, 2015 Author Share Posted December 13, 2015 John, the paint process is coming when all parts are done and temporarily installed, with some exceptions like reproduction of hoses or similar elements which will be done when the final assembly begins.I still don't know which color the model will be; I have an airbrush; however, my 2 previous models were painted with aerosol paint, base and clear. I very seldom use brushes... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 15, 2015 Author Share Posted December 15, 2015 1956 Continentals with A/C had fresh air apertures on the rear fenders, known as nostrils. As I have reproduced the A/C compressor, the nostrils have been added. I was not pleased to drill the rear fenders, but I had to… 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 23, 2015 Author Share Posted December 23, 2015 As the body work is slowly coming to an end, it’s time now to go to the details, for example the lower body moldings. They are easy to do: just a curved piece of brass; the attachment to the body was more complicated. At first, I wanted to use one stud at each end of the long molding with like a clip in the middle to have some stability. This complex solution was discarded when I saw that I could also use studs and nuts. To simplify the installation of the nuts, I removed the thread at the end of each stud. With that, I just have to push the nut on the stud and then turn it. The next step? I don’t know yet. I’m coming slowly to the upper part of the body as the lower one is practically finished. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S. Posted December 23, 2015 Share Posted December 23, 2015 Just incredible work! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 25, 2015 Author Share Posted December 25, 2015 Thanks John S for the comment and ScarredKnightfan for your many "likes this"! I’m now searching easy parts until I’m taking a decision with what to continue. The door locks on doors were missing; now they are done. No, they are not functional and the cover over the lock doesn’t move. Merry Christmas to all! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScarredKnightfan Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Thanks John S for the comment and ScarredKnightfan for your many "likes this"! LOL ... you're welcome, Roger! I don't always know what to say since I'm usually in awe of your work, but I want to be sure you know I've seen your updates! MERRY CHRISTMAS! Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.compigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)"It's the right time to rock the night away" __ Bobby Helms __ 'Jingle Bell Rock' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 Thanks ScarredKnightfan!Just for you: 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted December 28, 2015 Share Posted December 28, 2015 Roger, You do amazing work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 28, 2015 Author Share Posted December 28, 2015 Thanks Larry! Did you see? you have done 3000 posts! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScarredKnightfan Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thanks ScarredKnightfan!Just for you: NICE!!!!!! Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.compigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)"Have a happy holiday" __ Brenda Lee __ 'Rockin' Around The Christmas Tree' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Larry Schramm Posted December 31, 2015 Share Posted December 31, 2015 Thanks Larry! Did you see? you have done 3000 posts! Roger,Saw that. Thanks for noting. My wife would say that I spend too much time on the computer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 11, 2016 Author Share Posted January 11, 2016 Ordered today electric motors for the windows. For those who know the company Conrad, I ordered 5 motors with reduction, type G298-12V for the side windows and for the front seat. These units are 10/12mm for a length of 25mm without the shaft. For the vent windows, I ordered 2 motors with reduction by the same company, type G700. Those motors have a diameter of 6 mm for a length of 30 mm.Most certainly, I will do the guides for the side windows (front and rear) more or less like the original design; the motors will move the door’s windows with a string, like I did on both previous models. I still don’t know how the quarter windows will be activated by the motor; I have a vague design in my head for the vent windows. Obviously, the construction of the window systems can only go when I have the motors on my desk.Last year, I added a second leaf to the rear suspension with the same material I used for the main leaf. Result: the rear suspension is way too stiff, like a truck and with only 2 leaves! If I would add the remaining 6 leaves, the rear would have no deflection at all… Therefore, I ordered by a spring company something less thick. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted January 12, 2016 Share Posted January 12, 2016 Roger, I have been missing for a while. I want to say that coming back to the forum and seeing the progress on the Continental has really "fleshed" out the model. The front grille, front and rear bumper were just amazing. To get the "egg crate" grille to look that good in miniature was mind boggling. To hand file and dress each and every square of the grille........ For the people who just came onto the site and are for the first time seeing this model come to life, it will amaze them. If they follow the time lines, it will show how long that it has been since the start of the Continental. We faithful have been coming back each time seeking to see what else that you have tackled at the next juncture and how you accomplished the task. Explaining the problem and how you have overcome the hurdle accompanied by the pictures makes for a truly great story. Your "paint brush" is on par with Michelangelo and Da Vinci. Even better as your eye and work has to be exact or the Mark II will resemble a Yugo or ? Leave it to a Swiss engineer to pull off such perfection. We await your next installment, Roger. Belated Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year. Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted January 14, 2016 Share Posted January 14, 2016 Roger, are you saying that the windows are going to be operable too? How will they be operated? (switches in the doors like the original car, remotely by switches and wire???) I still can't believe the workmanship and detail. Just amazing!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 Yes Martin, the window will have an electric lift. It's not new to me, I did that already on the Toronado model. The switches will be on the doors and quarter panels like the original car; they will not be remote controlled.Thanks also to Randy for the comments. Michelangelo and De Vinci are in another league; I doubt that I will be rememered in 200 or more year! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 14, 2016 Author Share Posted January 14, 2016 It’s hardly a surprise that I’m dealing now with the side windows and roof. I did frames for the door’s windows, the drip moldings on both sides and at the front, the “roof drip rail lower side finish molding” as it’s called on the Mark II factory drawing and the side channel for the weatherstrip. The drip molding and the finishing molding are in my case soldered together as I cannot attach the drip molding on the roof like such parts are attached on real cars.The weatherstrip channel is attached to the roof by screws and blocked at the same time the assembly drip molding. Of course, I had to simplify the weatherstrip channel; I have my limitations.The window you see is a temporary one; the right one will be done with 0.5 mm Plexiglas. That side window is just held to the body with tape; the window was needed to see if the alignment is more or less OK. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 Today I got the electric motors. I hoped that those motors would be up to the task; I have to say my expectations are surpassed! The small motor for the went window has more or less the “speed” to operate directly the vent window without further reduction with just 1.5 volts And what for a torque!Same for the larger motor: with just a 1.5 V battery, the torque is really great; probably the motor can be directly connected to the lifting lever (not yet constructed) for the quarter windows. For the door windows, I will probably have to use a greater voltage as the velocity at 1.5 V is really low. But what for a torque! 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 20, 2016 Author Share Posted January 20, 2016 Before I did a real search for the electric motors, the vent windows were a large problem. At the end, this is the movable window which is the simplest to do! The dimensions from the electrical unit are such that it can be placed directly under the vent window, in continuation of the axle. The main question, due to the rather high torque for such a small motor, was: how to limit the torque when fully closed or open to avoid damages to the nylon shaft from the motor or his reduction? A mechanical stop is putting too much stress; I had to find a better solution. A clutch? A friction one? Well, not a super idea. Clutch, clutch…This word was turning around in the head and suddenly, click! The super idea: a visco-clutch. I have the product, used in my shock absorbers: the product from BP, HYVIS. It was just the matter to turn 2 pieces, one shaped like a cup not to lose the product, install them and it works! The movement is rather quick, a tad above 1 sec. to open or close. With less voltage, using a resistance, the movement will be a bit slower.This visco-clutch has a small negative aspect: the vent window can be opened or closed without motor. I believe it’s not a problem for the model. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 20, 2016 Share Posted January 20, 2016 Still completely awestruck and amazed by your work!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Thanks keiser31 for your comments and fidelity! Are you not tired to follow this thread which is now more than 5 years old since its begin? 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Thanks keiser31 for your comments and fidelity! Are you not tired to follow this thread which is now more than 5 years old since its begin?Never tired of your wonderful work. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted January 21, 2016 Share Posted January 21, 2016 Roger; I too am so amazed by your creative engineering. Keith 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 21, 2016 Author Share Posted January 21, 2016 Thanks Keith! Most of the time, the necessity is pushing some people out of the comfort zone...I'm among those! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 28, 2016 Author Share Posted January 28, 2016 Before I could continue with the side windows, I had to complete the flange at the rear of the door. The planned module will be attached to that flange. I then did the arms for the window lift; at each end there is no roller but a knob sliding in the guides. Then I did the plate on which the window lift is attached. Some modifications had to be performed to manually raise or lower the side window without too much effort (binding) or interference. Now, I just have to adapt the motor to that system…I have an idea how to do it, but I’m not sure if it will work as intended. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Spinneyhill Posted January 28, 2016 Share Posted January 28, 2016 Amazing! And look at the huge screwdriver you are using. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 1, 2016 Author Share Posted February 1, 2016 Fortunately, setbacks do not happen too frequently. However, I have to report a major one: my complex design for the side window is a failure. As long as the module is outside the door, the movement is perfect; the window go up and down rather quickly. Once installed inside the door, the friction of the window is such that the poor motor does not turn. The reason is simple: to perform the whole window’s travel, the motor is just turning 60°. I will go back to the old method: a string will assure the movement, like I did for the 2 other models I constructed. Fortunately, I did not both sides in parallel! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 The solution I have now is less elegant than the previous one, but at least, the window is going up and down! Very slowly (about 15 sec. for one way); with increase voltage, the motor would turn faster, but the torque would increase too. With the present situation, I have already too much torque: there is a lot of tension at the string when the window is at the end of its travel. Indeed, I have a 1:12 reduction compared to the all mechanical set-up. It makes a huge difference.I intend to refine the set-up, but basically the design will stay the same. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie9fingers Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Roger I was directed to this build project by a friend on The HAMB and I have to say I am beyond impressed, you are quite the artist and craftsman. I just binge read the entire build and I am at a loss for words, what you have done is simply incredible, I'm in awe. I signed up just to be able to comment and continue to follow your project. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bleach Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 (edited) Roger, your car will be far better than this toy copy that was made in Japan. Any chance it was an inspiration? Edited February 2, 2016 by Bleach (see edit history) 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 2, 2016 Author Share Posted February 2, 2016 Paulie, thank fo reading all those pages! As always, I'm appreciating comments and questions. The question Bleach asked: you are not too far away. My first scale model kit was a...Mark II from Revell, long, long ago. I can't remember if I choose that kit because I saw a real car (most probably not) or just by looking at the pictures in the newspaper. Anyway, next to some Studebaker models, this car was always present in my head. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted February 2, 2016 Share Posted February 2, 2016 Roger, Thanks again for blessing us with your talents. It has been a wonderful journey and one that continues to amaze. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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