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Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models


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For about 2 weeks, I had hopes that the LH lower bumper element would be an easy part; it was not. I had the dimensions from the other part, but I could not get the right shape. Finally, I had to cut the inner side of the bumper end and begin again. This time, the hammer blows were right and I could terminate the lower part. I did also holes and apertures and the lamp for the license plate and the outlet tubes for the exhaust. On the real car, the outlet tubes are the same for both sides; I had to adapt mines to the existing situation and they are not interchangeable.

On many pictures from real cars, the rear bumper’s sides are not horizontal, giving an ungainly appearance (or maybe it must be that way). In fact, as the bumper’s supports are welded to the lower bar, it must be very difficult to have the right stance plus an acceptable gap between body and bumper.

There is a “U” welded to each bumper support; at first I thought that it was some repair but I saw the same detail on other cars. Suddenly, the light came: this welded rod is acting as a pocket for the bumper jack. It can be seen on the model on the last picture.

Just for the fun, I installed the RH tail lamp; the tail lens must be red of course; it will be done later.

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Each time I had to work at the underside, like installing the bumpers, I had the model upside down on my legs. Not very wise, especially when a nut is falling on the floor! To correct the situation, I did this afternoon a support with 3 pieces of wood and thick felt. I will be usable too when the model will be painted to assemble the tank, bumpers and all the small details which will be done during the final assembly.

Yes, the roof is on the model, on a temporary basis as I had to check for the clearance.

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John, the paint process is coming when all parts are done and temporarily installed, with some exceptions like reproduction of hoses or similar elements which will be done when the final assembly begins.

I still don't know which color the model will be; I have an airbrush; however, my 2 previous models were painted with  aerosol paint, base and clear. I very seldom use brushes...

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  • 2 weeks later...

As the body work is slowly coming to an end, it’s time now to go to the details, for example the lower body moldings. They are easy to do: just a curved piece of brass; the attachment to the body was more complicated. At first, I wanted to use one stud at each end of the long molding with like a clip in the middle to have some stability. This complex solution was discarded when I saw that I could also use studs and nuts. To simplify the installation of the nuts, I removed the thread at the end of each stud. With that, I just have to push the nut on the stud and then turn it.

The next step? I don’t know yet. I’m coming slowly to the upper part of the body as the lower one is practically finished.

 

 

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Thanks John S for the comment and ScarredKnightfan for your many "likes this"!

 

I’m now searching easy parts until I’m taking a decision with what to continue. The door locks on doors were missing; now they are done. No, they are not functional and the cover over the lock doesn’t move.

 

Merry Christmas to all!

 

 

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Thanks John S for the comment and ScarredKnightfan for your many "likes this"!

 

LOL ... you're welcome, Roger!  I don't always know what to say since I'm usually in awe of your work, but I want to be sure you know I've seen your updates!

 

 

MERRY CHRISTMAS!

 

 

Cort :) www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic  (awaiting new owner)
"It's the right time to rock the night away" __ Bobby Helms __ 'Jingle Bell Rock'
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  • 2 weeks later...

Ordered today electric motors for the windows. For those who know the company Conrad, I ordered 5 motors with reduction, type G298-12V for the side windows and for the front seat. These units are 10/12mm for a length of 25mm without the shaft. For the vent windows, I ordered 2 motors with reduction by the same company, type G700. Those motors have a diameter of 6 mm for a length of 30 mm.

Most certainly, I will do the guides for the side windows (front and rear) more or less like the original design; the motors will move the door’s windows with a string, like I did on both previous models. I still don’t know how the quarter windows will be activated by the motor; I have a vague design in my head for the vent windows. Obviously, the construction of the window systems can only go when I have the motors on my desk.

Last year, I added a second leaf to the rear suspension with the same material I used for the main leaf. Result: the rear suspension is way too stiff, like a truck and with only 2 leaves! If I would add the remaining 6 leaves, the rear would have no deflection at all… Therefore, I ordered by a spring company something less thick.

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Roger,

 

I have been missing for a while.  I want to say that coming back to the forum and seeing the progress on the Continental has really "fleshed" out the model.  The front grille, front and rear bumper were just amazing.  To get the "egg crate" grille to look that good in miniature was mind boggling.  To hand file and dress each and every square of the grille........   For the people who just came onto the site and are for the first time seeing this model come to life, it will amaze them.  If they follow the time lines, it will show how long that it has been since the start of the Continental.  

 

We faithful have been coming back each time seeking to see what else that you have tackled at the next juncture and how you accomplished the task. Explaining the problem and how you have overcome the hurdle accompanied by the pictures makes for a truly great story.  

 

Your "paint brush" is on par with Michelangelo  and Da Vinci. Even better as your eye and work has to be exact or the Mark II will resemble a Yugo or ?  

 

Leave it to a Swiss engineer to pull off such perfection.  

 

We await your next installment, Roger.

 

Belated Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.  

 

Randy 

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Yes Martin, the window will have an electric lift. It's not new to me, I did that already on the Toronado model. The switches will be on the doors and quarter panels like the original car; they will not be remote controlled.

Thanks also to Randy for the comments. Michelangelo and De Vinci are in another league; I doubt that I will be rememered in 200 or more year!

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It’s hardly a surprise that I’m dealing now with the side windows and roof. I did frames for the door’s windows, the drip moldings on both sides and at the front, the “roof drip rail lower side finish molding” as it’s called on the Mark II factory drawing and the side channel for the weatherstrip. The drip molding and the finishing molding are in my case soldered together as I cannot attach the drip molding on the roof like such parts are attached on real cars.

The weatherstrip channel is attached to the roof by screws and blocked at the same time the assembly drip molding. Of course, I had to simplify the weatherstrip channel; I have my limitations.

The window you see is a temporary one; the right one will be done with 0.5 mm Plexiglas. That side window is just held to the body with tape; the window was needed to see if the alignment is more or less OK.

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Today I got the electric motors. I hoped that those motors would be up to the task; I have to say my expectations are surpassed! The small motor for the went window has more or less the “speed” to operate directly the vent window without further reduction with just 1.5 volts And what for a torque!

Same for the larger motor: with just a 1.5 V battery, the torque is really great; probably the motor can be directly connected to the lifting lever (not yet constructed) for the quarter windows. For the door windows, I will probably have to use a greater voltage as the velocity at 1.5 V is really low. But what for a torque!

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Before I did a real search for the electric motors, the vent windows were a large problem. At the end, this is the movable window which is the simplest to do! The dimensions from the electrical unit are such that it can be placed directly under the vent window, in continuation of the axle. The main question, due to the rather high torque for such a small motor, was: how to limit the torque when fully closed or open to avoid damages to the nylon shaft from the motor or his reduction? A mechanical stop is putting too much stress; I had to find a better solution. A clutch? A friction one? Well, not a super idea. Clutch, clutch…This word was turning around in the head and suddenly, click! The super idea: a visco-clutch. I have the product, used in my shock absorbers: the product from BP, HYVIS. It was just the matter to turn 2 pieces, one shaped like a cup not to lose the product, install them and it works! The movement is rather quick, a tad above 1 sec. to open or close. With less voltage, using a resistance, the movement will be a bit slower.

This visco-clutch has a small negative aspect: the vent window can be opened or closed without motor. I believe it’s not a problem for the model.

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Before I could continue with the side windows, I had to complete the flange at the rear of the door. The planned module will be attached to that flange. I then did the arms for the window lift; at each end there is no roller but a knob sliding in the guides.

Then I did the plate on which the window lift is attached. Some modifications had to be performed to manually raise or lower the side window without too much effort (binding) or interference. Now, I just have to adapt the motor to that system…I have an idea how to do it, but I’m not sure if it will work as intended.

 

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Fortunately, setbacks do not happen too frequently. However, I have to report a major one: my complex design for the side window is a failure. As long as the module is outside the door, the movement is perfect; the window go up and down rather quickly. Once installed inside the door, the friction of the window is such that the poor motor does not turn. The reason is simple: to perform the whole window’s travel, the motor is just turning 60°. I will go back to the old method: a string will assure the movement, like I did for the 2 other models I constructed.

Fortunately, I did not both sides in parallel!

 

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The solution I have now is less elegant than the previous one, but at least, the window is going up and down! Very slowly (about 15 sec. for one way); with increase voltage, the motor would turn faster, but the torque would increase too. With the present situation, I have already too much torque: there is a lot of tension at the string when the window is at the end of its travel. Indeed, I have a 1:12 reduction compared to the all mechanical set-up. It makes a huge difference.

I intend to refine the set-up, but basically the design will stay the same.

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Roger I was directed to this build project by a friend on The HAMB and I have to say I am beyond impressed, you are quite the artist and craftsman. I just binge read the entire build and I am at a loss for words, what you have done is simply incredible, I'm in awe.

 

I signed up just to be able to comment and continue to follow your project.

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Paulie, thank fo reading all those pages! As always, I'm appreciating comments and questions. The question Bleach asked: you are not too far away. My first scale model kit was a...Mark II from Revell, long, long ago. I can't remember if I choose that kit because I saw a real car (most probably not) or just by looking at the pictures in the newspaper. Anyway, next to some Studebaker models, this car was always present in my head.

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