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Roger's handcrafted 1:12 scale models


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I know you have to do it, but just cannot believe that you will take it all apart again for final detailing and painting. I would be just to scared to do it.

Me too! Unfortunately, there is no other way.

Oh, the z's are the symbol for sleeping where we live.

Same thing in this country; that's almost universal!

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After the weaker springs were installed, I continued with the hood's front lip which could not be done directly; this added one or two grams to the panel; the springs are slowly saying that they cannot do it anymore!

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Then it was the turn of the hood lock pin which is attached to the hood. Easy part made with mild steel. I choose that material because the pin is rather long and thin; a brass part could be easily bent.

The other part of the equation was more complicated. In fact, the hood lock is much simpler than the trunk or door lock, at least at first glance. The realisation was another matter. There are 2 catch levers; one for the safety catch, the other to keep the hood closed. Both are actuated at the same time with the opening lever, which I feel it's illogical. Here is a picture from a real one:

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The first idea was to make the levers with stainless steel: very rigid and no plating necessary. Unfortunately, the dark side is that the material is difficult to work with files. During testing the first prototype, it fell into the engine compartment; even with the model upside down, that piece is still there! I will find it when I will remove all the parts for painting...

I changed my mind and went to thinner brass. The other problem was with the lever's spring: the springs themselves were not a problem but how to push then into the levers, place the levers into the body and then insert a small shaft? One or the other springs went in the air and are still unfound. At the end, I did a special tool maintaining the springs while inserting the levers and shaft. The inconvenient: the springs must be very long to be inserted into the tool. The excess material will be cut at the last moment because, if I have to remove a lever (for plating as example, I will have to do another long spring...

You see the wires which should be cut. During assembly, the unprotected wires had a bad habit to stitch the fingers...

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Yesterday I assembled the lock to the body; fortunately, it works as expected. The opening lever will be trimmed when the grille is done; it should not be visible when the hood is closed.

On the real lock, there is a strong spring which pushes the hood up to the safety catch when it's unlocked; I did not do that as I feel it's superfluous on a model.

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With the addition of the character line in the middle of the hood, the metal work on that part is over.

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To solder that line, all the front end parts were removed again to allow the removal of the hood. The next step is to shape the inner structure with polyester.

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Pertinent question, Geoff, that solution would be the more elegant one. My answer: maybe yes, maybe not...In fact, when the hood was more or less done, the copper was rather hard. Probably with a perfect die it could be possible to do that line. With my available tools and experience (or lack of it), I did not even consider this solution.

Same for the lip in front of the hood: at first I intended to have it formed together with the hood. I soon realized that it was an illusion to hope for an acceptable shape; in consequence, I modified the wood buck to eliminate the lip.

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To complete the hood, I still have to do the inner structure. As it would be too complicated to make it with brass, I long ago decided to do it with polyester. I began to make a rough form with Plastilin; yesterday, I poured some silicone rubber, the same material I used for the tires, but without black tint.

Now, I can continue with the strong smelling polyester and fiberglass.

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The last picture showed the hood with the mold to make the inner structure. That part was done when the weather was nice as I'm doing that work outside to avoid the bad smelling in house. If the wind is coming from North, the place I'm doing that has no wind; unfortunately, the day I did that the wind came from South! For those who have some experience with polyester and fiberglass, they know how the fibers are going everywhere with a little bit of wind...And the fiber pieces have to be cut before the polyster is mixed with the hardener. Well, it was almost fun!

Anyway, I could do what I had in mind. After taking the piece out of the mold when the polyester was cured, it had to be trimmed and adjusted to the inner shape. It was then glued to the hood with bondo.

The next step was to do the same with the trunk lid. First the outer contour of the structure, then Plastiline and, when I was satisfied with the rough shape, polyester and fiberglass as due to the shape of the trunk, I could not make the form with liquid rubber like for the hood. And, guess what? It was windy again...

 

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As you see on the picture, the hood on the left is ready for finishing work; the trunk lid with still most of the Plastiline on it and the molded part which must be trimmed and the shape improved. Then I will do the definitive part, expecting for North wind.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

With the hood and trunk lid inner structure, the body is basically finished. Well, not quite as the roof is still not attached to it. This will be done when most of the parts from the passenger compartment are done.

 

Now, I can go with the details, like this stange part. By the way, what it is?

 

The answer is on the second picture. This is the support for the swinging away tail lamp. Thanks to the cars I can measure and take pictures, this small part but labor intensive could be done more or less like the original. I "just" have to do the remaining parts: the back from the tail lamp and the levers which enable the assembly to go on side. Will I succeed? Stay tuned...

 

 

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Two days ago, I put a coat of red primer on the hood, front fenders and trunk lid. this time the paint is better applied because I replaced the pressure regulator from the air brush compressor, he was cracked and lost a lot of air.

When the paint is cured, I will assemble the parts on the body.

 

Since the forum has been changed, I did loose almost all my supporters. I hope they will come back!

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Roger,

 

Don't be alarmed. I don't "follow" any topics on the forum. I do, however check for new posts and read every new post in this discussion at least daily.

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Roger, I saw early on that one option ensuring that I would be notified of updates was to click on the follow this topic at the top of the thread page. That is what I did to a lot of threads I had not replied to just after the forum upgrade. It works well as I was notified of the updates to the thread. But just the same there are a number of threads that I pretty much follow but have not or had no reason as yet to reply to follow. Just and FYI.  Looking forward to the photo update next. Scott...

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This damn lamp mechanism is making me dreaming during the night, a first! Anyway, I have the impression that I' working like a mole. I have so many unsolved small problems that the progress is really slow.

I could claim a first success: the mechanism is reacting as I expected. I "just" have to attach a lamp body, do the chrome bezel and both lenses!

The first picture is showing the mechanism the way it will be when the lamp is in place; on the second picture the lamp is on side to fill the tank. I still have also to make these levers thinner as the space available is not generous.

 

 

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I think I have it. Today, I silver soldered a lamp body back to the corresponding lever. Of course, this back is not looking like the one from the real car; I have to adapt. Now, I can do the chrome bezel and find a way to attach it to the back, taking in account the lenses.

Probably you noticed that the trunk lid has a coat of primer; front fenders and hood got the same treatment. 

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Edited by Roger Zimmermann (see edit history)
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Martin, right now the model has a weight of 2.4 kg which represents at the scale 1:1 4'147 kg or 9'100 pounds! Quite logic to explain: for the body, I'm using brass and cooper which are .4 mm thick (0.016"). At scale 1:1, this would be 4.8 mm thick (0.19"). In fact, this is about the thickness from an armoured vehicle!

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Roger,  

 

You have not heard from me for a while.  I have been busy with my Italian Iron. (or lack of it due to the rust through in the floor panels :-(    I picked up my short block from the machine shop Thursday and can now start on the re-assembly !

I have finally found time to sit down and go to the AACA site to see the progress on your Continental.  As always, truly amazing.  That rear tail light/gas fill looked as complicated as the hood latch mechanism/release.  And the primer coat on the body really gave the car a whole new prospective as how amazing and realistic your talents have emerged in this venture.  Bravo, Bravo, Bravo !  Have you made the windshield, rear window and side glass for the car yet?  And what will be the material that you select for them?  That is probably a final step in the completion of the model but I did not know about the Avanti till Geoff clued me in to your site.  I do not know if you covered that step in the Avanti build, but not to put the cart before the horse, if you have not covered that step yet, I will be patient and await that portion of the model build.  I can only imagine......................   

 

Randy

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Thanks ScarredKnightfan! To be honest, I'm not surprised to have some reactions from the viewers as the model is now more looking like a car...

 

Yep, that surely might be part of it!  You are welcome. :)

 

 

Cort :) www.oldcarsstronghearts.com

1979 & 1989 Caprice Classics | pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve
"Life is like a circle slowly turning on itself" __ Clay Davidson __ 'Unconditional'
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Roger,  

 

You have not heard from me for a while.  I have been busy with my Italian Iron. (or lack of it due to the rust through in the floor panels :-(    I picked up my short block from the machine shop Thursday and can now start on the re-assembly !

 

As I restored 3 cars, I know how it is! Next to the financial aspect, the space and sometimes the dependance to other people dictate the progress (or lack of it) of such a project.

To your questions: no the Windows are not yet done. I'm even far away from it. Windshield and back window can only be done when the roof is attached definitively to the body; most certainly the side Windows will be done before, during the time I will be dealing with their frames and regulators. When? next year or the year after next year? There are still so many parts to fabricate I'm unable to give a schedule.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...
Guest PaulSigmund

Wow! More than 200'000 views! Thanks to your faithfulness!

Thank you for the hours of entertainment and dedication to quality and detail that I could never attain.

My children are amazed at the detail and craftsmanship.

Edited by PaulSigmund (see edit history)
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You are welcome Paul! About details: I'm doing now the tail lamp bezels. If the one from the RH side will be "easy", it's not the case on the LH side. How to attach it to the movable part?

Again, I choose an unconventional method: the bezel will be attached with 2 screws from the back-up lamp aperture. If the red lens can be held by the bezel once attach to the "frame", the back-up lens will be pushed through the aperture. Maybe a daub of transparent silicone will avoid losing it.

The original lamp is held closed by a long spring; I can do springs, but this time I will imagine a different locking system because I see problems with that spring and my construction.

The LH bezel is not finished but I continuing with the other one. Thanks the saw from Randiego and some blades later, I'm ready to discard the unnecessary metal.

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