Barry Wolk Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Ken, I'm surprised you've never seen Roger's work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Ken, thank you for looking at my thread.My activities at GM were mostly in Switzerland, with some "adventures" in other European countries and GM training - train the trainer- for some weeks in the US. I'm afraid that I don't even know Ray Koenig, sorry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest karmakvisser Posted February 17, 2015 Share Posted February 17, 2015 Its easy to forget that for many years, GM was the largest corporation in the world. It was a long shot. I will filter back into the digital darkness and continue to be in awe of your creation.Many thanks for spending the time to share this passion with the group.regardsken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 18, 2015 Author Share Posted February 18, 2015 Lately, I did the light switch which is located on the small pod. That switch may be overkilled, but I hope it will be reliable because, if it fails when the car is finished, I will have to remove the windshield to take the whole dashboard out.I also did the radio (no, it will not play); to insert it, I had to modify the central support for the console. Yes, it was a bad planning! Just for the fun, I assembled the knobs to the dash; they are attached with a 1 mm nut. The radio is held by the radio knobs; due to the light weight, no other bracket is needed!The decor is installed at the small pod; I still have to do the one for the larger pod. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted February 19, 2015 Share Posted February 19, 2015 Roger, Ces Magnifique ! Have you thought about what color scheme that you have picked out for the interior and exterior? From the Continental pasteles of the 50's, these Continentals were just that........Continental. Pulling up to the country club in this dazzling car, the lady exiting in the latest Oleg Cassini fashion and he resplendent in his fine tailored suit. This car takes me back to when the world was right. Korean war was over and the world was getting back to work with living without strife.....for a while. GM, Ford, Chrysler, Mercedes, Citron, and the rest were designing automobiles for the times. Where were you in the early to mid fifties, Roger? What was the mood like in Switzerland back then? Had you started modeling with any kits back in the fifties? Somewhere, that spark must have struck, like it did with all us young guys. And we here at the forum are so glad that it did ! We eagerly await the next development of the "Masterpiece"Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
X-Frame Posted February 22, 2015 Share Posted February 22, 2015 @ Scott (Scott_DG8) This forum is in fact dedicaced to real cars; the audience is totally different here that a scale model forum. As I wrote to John, what I'm doing is entertainment and it seems that it works! I understand also that it's not possible to make a comment after each update; it's not the goal.And don't feel inferior: look at what I did many, many years ago:[ATTACH=CONFIG]278719[/ATTACH]This represents the first frame for the Avanti model; in was in...1963. my skills improved somewhat since that time.Roger, everyone starts somewhere and even though it was an early (first?) attempt with the Avanti chassis, it shows skill even then in forming the frame! It looks right in concept which is more than I can say for some of the diecast model makers who have completely botch the chassis, sometimes getting it completely wrong.We know (with my help) that the 1955 Futura Show Car has a prototype Continental Mk II chassis that was designed for a retractable top version that was never developed but still has the same Y-backbone frame layout as placed in production. There is a version that came out two years ago in 1:18 scale resin by Minichamps selling for $295 and believe have already been discontinued? The body look great but there were no external openings and the chassis was a joke. It was no where close to being what is/was under the real car that ended up being Batmobile #1. They stuck a 1930's Ford chassis plate under it that even has transverse springs and a solid front axle. Such a shame but the bottom line is... I appreciate accuracy and chassis details tells me if the rest of the car is true. Eric Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 It looks right in concept which is more than I can say for some of the diecast model makers who have completely botch the chassis, sometimes getting it completely wrong.EricMost people who buy such models have not much interest for the underside; even some owners have no clue about frame, suspension and so on! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 24, 2015 Author Share Posted February 24, 2015 Have you thought about what color scheme that you have picked out for the interior and exterior? Randy, it's not yet decided. I just know it will be a metalic color as I like that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest exbcmc Posted February 25, 2015 Share Posted February 25, 2015 Your skills are beyond my comprehension....amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 exbcmc, dont' try to understand: I fell on my head when I was 15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 26, 2015 Author Share Posted February 26, 2015 It's not the first hand brake module I'm doing, but certainly the one which gave me the most headaches! I did one almost 50 years ago for the Avanti model. Crude, but it was OK. This part, like many others, was no more used when I restored this model. Unfortunately, I throw away all those unused parts some time ago, so I could not "copy". The second brake module was for the Toronado which is activated by the foot (with a finger on the model) and this one is working perfectly: each time I'm taking the Toronado out of his stored place, I have to use the emergency brake because, as the wheels are on ball bearings, it rolls very easily.The third hand brake was for the reconstructed Avanti; worked perfectly before installation; never used since because I should do a tool to catch the lever which is located at the right of the steering wheel. Even by looking at it, I could not see how I did the spring or pawl. I tried several possibilities, all failed. That emergency brake will maybe never be used once installed, but at least I want to say "it could work"!Finally, I did a device more complicated as intended, but reliable.The lower tube is held with 4 screws at the firewall; on the model, 2 screws will be fake as the space is too tight to install them...A picture from the original module:My interpretation of it:I cannot install the cable at the end of the rod because it is to be soldered to the handle and the whole will get chrome plated first. Once this is done, the cable will be installed. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 5, 2015 Author Share Posted March 5, 2015 For a long time, I had no clue how I would attach the glove box to the dash assembly and how I could install the lid check arms. The attachment point for the console was a concern too...While doing other details it was slowly clear that I had to assemble it to the dash prior the installation into the car. In fact, I don't understand why I had to study such a long time to find an easy solution.Open:More or less side view:In an unusual way for me, all the parts constituting the glove box door are soft soldered, with the exception of the "catch" which could be more refined as it is now. I did not build a real lock...Too small!The attachment point for the lower console/glove box are also provided with 2 studs soft welded to the floor. The chromed lock for the door will be done at a later point when I have dimensions and location. The next step: install the dash to the car, install again doors and front fender. The work at the dash is not complete, but I have enough for the moment: I will begin with the hood. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Byrd Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Mr. Z, if you don't hear from your vast audience after something like your last post showing the dash, it's because some of us haven't quit sitting there with our mouths open, staring in amazement. This is all SO very interesting ! And to think, I am worrying about welding three, 1/4 inch studs on a piece of new metal.... much admiration to you sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted March 5, 2015 Share Posted March 5, 2015 Mr. Z, if you don't hear from your vast audience after something like your last post showing the dash, it's because some of us haven't quit sitting there with our mouths open, staring in amazement. This is all SO very interesting ! And to think, I am worrying about welding three, 1/4 inch studs on a piece of new metal.... much admiration to you sir.I agree wholeheartedly and the details of your work/fun are astounding! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobravii Posted March 6, 2015 Share Posted March 6, 2015 I continue to be truly amazed at your skills! Amazing work. Any way you can compile the pics in one album? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Thanks John Byrd and keiser31!cobravii: one of my "fan" or better said, on of the viewer from this thread is preparing something similar. Initially, he wanded to do 2 books, one for him and one for me. Maybe he may do more than 2 and sell the other ones. Randiego (who is coming from time to time here) may decide about that. Who knows, he may become a publisher! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 Yesterday, while I was doing the front fenders assembly, I wanted to shift them on side and, unfortunately I pushed on a front wheel during that correction. I heard "tick" and the steering was loose!The screw I used to locate the Pitman arm to the steering gear shaft (I cannot do splines) broke. Result: I cannot take the broken screw out of the shaft; I'm doing a new shaft... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted March 8, 2015 Share Posted March 8, 2015 Roger, The pit falls of the model building process! I am trying to fathom how your hand brake will work. Will it actuate the rear brake shoes to engage in the drums? If so, WOW! Pulling on the hand lever to set the brakes in 1:12 scale...........you boggle the mind with the minutia involved to accomplish such a feat. But you have boggled many a mind here with your building skills. After this, the hood should be a simple project. Are you carving a buck to form the metal on? I cannot wait to see the progression of the hood. Excellent work. We are all awaiting your next post. Randiego Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 The plan is that the hand brake will actuate the rear shoes. However, the system on this car is difficult to scale down; not to fabricate the parts, but to install them. The hood may not be that easy (this is the reason why I began the dash to push away the difficulty!); it will be formed on the wook buck like the other body parts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cobravii Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 LOL.... I was thinking more along the lines of a digital album on this thread to compile al the pics in one spot.Thanks John Byrd and keiser31!cobravii: one of my "fan" or better said, on of the viewer from this thread is preparing something similar. Initially, he wanded to do 2 books, one for him and one for me. Maybe he may do more than 2 and sell the other ones. Randiego (who is coming from time to time here) may decide about that. Who knows, he may become a publisher! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fyreline Posted March 9, 2015 Share Posted March 9, 2015 Roger - Every time I come back to this thread, I am once again humbled by your craftsmanship & artistry. I am reminded of Gerald Wingrove, Michel Conti, Manuel Olive Sans, and others who were able to create not just a model, but an automobile in miniature. The fact that the 1956-57 Continental Mark II is one of my eight favorite cars of all time doesn't hurt, either. It's a joy to watch your progress. For all of us who are living vicariously through your efforts - Thank you.Dave Reeves Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 11, 2015 Author Share Posted March 11, 2015 Thanks Dave & Bowlers!Yesterday was full of doubts. When I cut the large piece of copper, I really wondered if I could obtain a decent hood:Some hours later, the doubts are still present, even if the shape is at mid-way from what I expected:At the end of a long day, the relief:Sure, there are still some pits and irregularities but from that, I can go further with trimming and doing the side reinforcements as well as the front panel for the lock. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 19, 2015 Author Share Posted March 19, 2015 The exterior shape was quickly done; the inner side is more time consuming. Fortunately, front fenders and radiator cradle are ready and I can check for interferences when doing the inner front end.I should continue with the sides; they are important because the hinges are attached at them. As it's easier to adapt the sides to the hinges than the contrary, I'm continuing now with the hinges for the hood. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 As the hood will be heavy (about .1 kg), the hinges must be able to bear that weight. After doing a sample with cardboard, I began with the easy parts: the links and upper support. I did larger rivets than for the trunk lid and a trick during the construction is eliminating most side play. The rivets are not riveted to the upper support but silver soldered. The trick is to have the links still free to move. Up to now, I succeeded.Now, the lower support is to be done. As the spring will be rather strong, I'm doing the lower support in stainless steel. The heat to silver solder the rivets is annealing the brass rendering it too soft for this application. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 Astounding work.'42 Lincoln Zephyr Club Coupe next? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 25, 2015 Author Share Posted March 25, 2015 Thanks Barry! Let me finish this one; I doubt that in 5 years I will have the courage to begin another one... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buicknutty Posted March 25, 2015 Share Posted March 25, 2015 (edited) Roger; I have followed this thread for a few years, and I'm now going to add to the chorus of acclaim that the others have already posted. Your work truly astounds me. I find it hard enough to do the details on a full size car, never mind a model. I have a fond spot for this make and model as an uncle of mind had one for many years, my aunt got it new, in fact, and then he kept it for a long time after her passing, and finally sold it as he was getting to old to bother with a vintage car. So keep up the great work, and thank you for sharing! Keith Edited March 26, 2015 by Buicknutty grammar (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest my3buicks Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 every time I look at this thread I always say - incredible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 Roger, I cannot imagine that the hood would be that heavy but in scale, it is a lot of stress for such a small part. But we all have faith in your ability to tackle and overcome any obstacles that will be in your way for a functioning hood with springs and alignment.Now, is there going to be a light under the hood when it opens? :-) I am not aware of the Continental's under hood "trouble light". Many cars had a light on a cord to "pull out" for placement at the point where one was looking for light assistance.Did the Continental have such a light?On another note; When my brother and I were in Junior/Senior High in Winfield Kansas, one of the town doctors had this car. It was in the pastel light green with white interior. It was such an elegant car. He would drive around the city and we all knew him as he was the only one in our small city who had a Continental. Later when I was on the golf team at the local country club, he and his wife would show up for functions out there. Even though the car was older, it still was the most elegant car to pull up to the front of the Country Club. And now you are creating this masterpiece, in miniature. We are all awaiting your next part and development. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted March 26, 2015 Share Posted March 26, 2015 The '56 had a full under hood blanket and 2 mercury tilt lights and the '57 had one light with a partial blanket. A retractable light would have been nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted March 26, 2015 Author Share Posted March 26, 2015 (edited) Thanks Keith, my3buicks and Randiego for your comments!'56 Continentals had 2 underhood lamps; '57 models only one (they did spare already!). I will probably do the lamps, but not functionnal. Only healamps and taillamps will illuminate. The other lamps could be done, but for me it makes no sense.I hope that the hood will not be heavier than 3.5 ounces. Not because of the tires but simply because to keep it open the springs will be critical. I would not be happy if I need a rod (a miniature dirty broomstick?) to keep the hood open!A detail about the weight: it must be compared to the same part on a real car. A hood weighting 100 gr will be in real life: 100 x 12 x 12 x 12 = 172'800 gramms or 172 kg (380 pounds). Now you may understand the problem with the springs for the hinges... Edited March 27, 2015 by Roger Zimmermann explanation added (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ScarredKnightfan Posted March 29, 2015 Share Posted March 29, 2015 Holy cow, Roger ... fascinating & awesome work ... loving the progress on this!Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com1979 & 1989 Caprice Classics | pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve"All it needs is just a little time" __ Jeff Carson __ 'The Car' Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted April 18, 2015 Author Share Posted April 18, 2015 Every time I'm away from home for 2 or 3 weeks, I have a lot to do when I'm back...but I don't complain!After doing the most urgent tasks, I could continue the model with the hinges installation on the body. When it was done, I noticed that my plan to have the hood almost vertical to assemble it on the hinges was an illusion: past a certain angle, the back corners will interfere with the front fenders. I will have only one choice: install the hood on the hinges, then the assembly to the body and then the front fenders. Will that be without incident? The future will tell.As you can see, the springs are not yet done. Due to the fact that the hood will stay at about 45° when open, I'm wondering if my planed springs will be strong enough...Before I'm doing the pedestals for the hinges, I did the base for the hood reinforcement. To avoid an exaggerate weight, the reinforcement will be made with polyester. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted April 21, 2015 Author Share Posted April 21, 2015 This is a success! First I did the pedestals for the hinges, soldered them to the hood; did some adjustments to the assembly and, last task, did some springs. I'm using a .5 mm (0.02") diameter wire, "rolled" it on a 2 mm rod and I got a spring which has almost the same diameter than the original. When the second one was done, I assembled the hood to the body and was very surprised that the ajustment at the firewall did not change and that the hood is staying open! I will be probably have to build in a stop for the hinges (I neglected to do it because I wanted to have the largest angle of aperture as possible) to avoid that the corners are hitting the front fenders.I even have the impression that my springs are too strong: past an aperture from about 20 degrees, the hood opens itself. Before I'm doing weaker springs I have to finish the hood as some details are still missing.It was wise to make rivets larger than the ones for the trunk; the effort on the hinges is considerable. They will have to be lubricated! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted April 23, 2015 Share Posted April 23, 2015 Looking good Roger! Your moving faster than I am on my real car. Do you have to take it all apart to do all the final painting of the parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted April 23, 2015 Author Share Posted April 23, 2015 Thanks Martin!Don't forget, I'm retired...Yes, everything will be taken apart for the paint. I just have to remember how I assembled some elements and hope also that I will not forget the sequence to reassemble them! As you can see on the pictures, the primer is damaged at many places with so many R & R. This is the reason why the parts which are ready are not getting the final paint. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Yesterday, I tried another set of springs, with a wire diameter just 0.1mm smaller (0.4 instead of 0.5 mm). The hood still stay open, but it will probably not when the hood is complete. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted April 24, 2015 Share Posted April 24, 2015 Roger,It truly doesn't seem like it has been over 5 years since you started this amazing journey for us, I guess time flies when you're having fun. I think I speak for most when I say we are very fortunate that you've taken the extra time to let us follow along. I'm still just as excited to see what the future holds as I was back when I watched the tires being formed. Thanks again for sharing your talent. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted April 24, 2015 Author Share Posted April 24, 2015 Thanks, Jeff!You should get a medal to still have a look at this thread, as well as the other people who still in silence are continuing to follow this adventure! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
unimogjohn Posted April 25, 2015 Share Posted April 25, 2015 Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz, no we are not sleeping, just continue to ponder how the heck you do just fine and precise work. I know you have to do it, but just cannot believe that you will take it all apart again for final detailing and painting. I would be just to scared to do itOh, the z's are the symbol for sleeping where we live. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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