Roger Zimmermann Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Roger,I continue to be speechless on your skill level and detail. It is so beyond my abilities that all I can say is you are a true artist.Also, Merry Christmas.Thank you for your comments Larry. There are activities from people in this forum which are beyond my abilities too; to each his own skill or talent!Merry Chritmas to you and to all from this forum! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steve283 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 I have been enjoying this greatly.Working in factories for more than 40 years has added to the enjoyment of your build.And the time spent in posting is to be commended.I did wonder that you sent out your chrome work as they do make small "bucket" chrome systems that are cheap and fast,(it really is all about the prep in chrome anyway.)But to each his own.After watching this build I feel making some of my own parts are not outside my possibilities.Thank you,Steve. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steve283 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 oh,here is one of the bucket chrome places. Caswell Inc. - Copy Chrome™I am in no way connected to them.just a research option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 Thank you for comments and the link Steve. I know that Eastwood is (or was) selling a kit to "chrome" parts; I'm always a little bit sceptical about the results and durability. A test would be fine, but spend more than $ 200.00 to find that the end result is not acceptable is questionable! The next hurdle is that we have 220 volts, USA 110 and the system is certainly not available for 220 volts.Anyway, I'm years away to chrome other parts for this model; I will keep your suggestion; who knows, maybe something similar is available in Europe.By the way, the plater I'm giving my chrome parts is giving a coat of copper for better adhesion and quality of the chrome . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 Roger,When you get to that point...If you can't find a hobbyist chrome kit locally, you could use the Caswell System (or something similar) with a relatively inexpensive transformer designed for use by travelers who wish to use their US made electrical items while traveling overseas.Here is one example that I found with a simple online search:European Travel Transformer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 24, 2011 Author Share Posted December 24, 2011 (edited) It seems that there is a conspiration that I have to do my plating myself! Thank you Matthew for this info about the transformer! Edited December 25, 2011 by Roger Zimmermann spelling (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steve283 Posted December 24, 2011 Share Posted December 24, 2011 I think what we really mean is the work is so awesome that if we could we would help any way we could.I don't think any of us would presume to tell you how to do anything,Just suggesting. Submitting for your perusal.sorry to interrupt,Please continue..I am learning much. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 25, 2011 Author Share Posted December 25, 2011 In fact Steve, I appreciate the inputs. They show me different ways to do things as one alone cannot know everything. Your suggestion about plating is tempting; it's always a risk to have parts outside, they can be lost or whatever can happens when no more under our own control.This forum has so many people from different horizons; the various knowledges are shared to the benefit of all! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 28, 2011 Author Share Posted December 28, 2011 The drive shaft required a lot of machining to do the universal joints. As you can see on the pictures below, there is a central bearing. At first I did it solid, the shaft turning into a large brass part. Then I realized that the shaft is not parallel with the frame, but the outer shell of that support is squarely attached to the frame. The only solution was a rubber insulator which allows the drive shaft to be at an angle.If the drive shaft would transmit some power, I would need another manufacturing method, as the shaft now is not quite turning true! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted December 31, 2011 Author Share Posted December 31, 2011 It's not a fancy one: I managed to do 2 pieces: the A/C pulley and the compressor's cylinder head. Next year will see the birth of the compressor's case.Happy New Year to all! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PONTIAC1953 Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 happy new years roger, i always look forward to finding and reading your progress. excellent detail. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest longman Posted December 31, 2011 Share Posted December 31, 2011 Happy new year Roger, I look forward to more photos of your giant coin collection!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 2, 2012 Author Share Posted January 2, 2012 Thank you pontiac1953 and longman for your wishes; I hope that you will have an excellent year 2012! (the other readers too!) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sweepspear Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 Roger,These models must have some weight to them when finished. What does say the Avanti or Toronado models you created weigh?Looking forward to your next update! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 7, 2012 Author Share Posted January 7, 2012 Roger,These models must have some weight to them when finished. What does say the Avanti or Toronado models you created weigh?Looking forward to your next update!Dale, the Toronado has a weight of 2.45 kg (5.4 pounds) and the Avanti is 2 kg (4.4 pounds) heavy. It's hard to tell why the Avanti is that much lighter. OK, the Toronado is a little bit larger; one factor for the weight is the electric motor for the traction and the 6 electric motors for the windows, front seat and hide-away front lamps; the Avanti has nothing electrical. The Mark II will have also electric windows (even the vent windows) as electric windows were standard on the real car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Amphicar BUYER Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Maybe its too soon to ask (I am sure it is!) What's next? How about something simple and close to my heart, (drum roll please...) An Amphicar! I am beyond impressed with your art. This is not work nor is it a hobby. Your efforts are truly an art form. If I were wearing a hat, it would be taken off for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 Maybe its too soon to ask (I am sure it is!) What's next? How about something simple and close to my heart, (drum roll please...) An Amphicar! I am beyond impressed with your art. This is not work nor is it a hobby. Your efforts are truly an art form. If I were wearing a hat, it would be taken off for you.Thank you John for the compliment.The next one? When this one will be ready, I will be about 75 year old...If I still can work then or/and for how long is just a guess!A Skyliner like you have would be a challenge to have the roof working as intended by the manufacturer. Or a convertible...Sorry to disappoint you, an Amphicar is a cute little car/boat with you certainly have a lot of fun, but it's a no go for me as a model... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dalef62 Posted January 9, 2012 Share Posted January 9, 2012 Why don't you make the Mark II a retractable as was intended years ago by Ford? The plans were to make the Mark II a retactable but is wasn't cost effective.Awesome work!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 10, 2012 Author Share Posted January 10, 2012 Why don't you make the Mark II a retractable as was intended years ago by Ford? The plans were to make the Mark II a retactable but is wasn't cost effective.Awesome work!!!!!!!People are full of good ideas! As far as I know, the rear body of the Mark II retractable was not identical to the one of the standard cars. There are some pictures or drawings available, would be that sufficient to create such a model? I already gave up the idea to do a Mark II convertible (wich are existing, hello Barry!) as I prefer to stick with the regular production model. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Maine Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Have you ever posted pictures of the other cars you have done? I would love to see them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barry Wolk Posted January 12, 2012 Share Posted January 12, 2012 Page 2. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John_Maine Posted January 13, 2012 Share Posted January 13, 2012 Thanks. I've been following this thread from the beginning, not sure how I missed the pictures. Your patience is amazing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 14, 2012 Author Share Posted January 14, 2012 Thanks. I've been following this thread from the beginning, not sure how I missed the pictures. Your patience is amazing.John and other viewers, you are patient too! Thank you to Barry to direct you to the page where other pictures are shown. I don't remember if I ever gave that link: Model Makers—Roger Zimmermann other pictures and some background are to be seen.Sorry if I was slow to respond: a cold kept me to bed this week; construction will resume gradually next week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 18, 2012 Author Share Posted January 18, 2012 The construction resumed this week, as I expected. After more or less finishing the case, I did yesterday the upper bracket. That thing had to be physically positioned on the engine in a way I can continue. The upper bracket is probably not very accurate; I had to adapt it in relation to the items around it. Anyway, it allows seeing the relationship with the engine block at the lower case where the lower bracket/oil pan for the compressor is located (not yet done).That lower bracket/oil pan has provisions for the generator; I will have to do the generator first...As you can imagine, the space is very tight; I was afraid that the compressor would interfere with the frame. In fact, I have 1 mm (.039") clearance between the A/C case and upper suspension lever. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 21, 2012 Author Share Posted January 21, 2012 As mentioned previously, I had to do the generator to continue the lower bracket of the A/C compressor. A generator is usually a large cylinder with two flanges to attach it somewhere and a pulley. Quite easy...The pulley /fan is a casting part, I did it also in one piece, machined and not cast; I'm pleased with the result. The flange behind the pulley is easy to do; however, I managed to do it wrong: I forgot to add the ear for its adjustment! That wrong piece is on the top of the first picture; the other parts, including the capacitor, are ready to be assembled. The rear flange is a cast aluminum part with some recesses. Even if this part can hardly be seen, I did the recesses by milling. A nice small exercise!The completed generator is on the second picture. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kozaka Posted January 22, 2012 Share Posted January 22, 2012 you do such sweet work I would love to see you do a 1971 Buick Riviera the first boat tail that came out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 you do such sweet work I would love to see you do a 1971 Buick Riviera the first boat tail that came out.Thank you for the suggestion, but please wait until this one is ready! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 25, 2012 Author Share Posted January 25, 2012 The lower bracket/casting for the A/C compressor was an interesting and difficult part to do: this is the part which is responsible for the correct location of the compressor on the engine. Too much forward/rearward the pulley doesn't align any more with the ones from the engine, etc., etc. I began with the oil pan by milling a thick piece of metal, including the provision for the small side bracket (not yet done). Then I soldered another piece which will be screwed to the engine block. All went rather well but slowly; unfortunately, the holes for the screws were not exactly at the right place and I had to elongate them. The "tongues" for the generator were also tricky to solder; I began with the rear one, adjusting his thickness to have the right pulley's location and did the hole for the screw. I went then to the one in front; while brazing it, the rear one moved a bit...could however correct it. Then I found that the generator was too low according to the many pictures I have. Did another hole at the rear tongue, then I could do the one in front. Of course, it was not at the right location so I had to elongate the hole in the front flange of the generator.I'm satisfied with the whole assembly, but something is not quite right: the bracket to adjust the generator will interfere with the generator's body; the ear of the front flange is probably at the wrong angle or it's hole too near from the body. If this assembly would be highly visible, I would redo a third generator front flange. However, this time I will cheat a little bit! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kozaka Posted January 25, 2012 Share Posted January 25, 2012 really nice work Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1940_Dodge Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 This is simply beautiful, you must have the hands of a neurosurgeon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 .... you must have the hands of a neurosurgeon.Thank you! Jayson: I could begin that as next hobby, are you candidate? Oh, by the way: I don't especially like the sight of blood.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest steve283 Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 hehehe,I know I would have a hard time with those screws.I drop the big ones enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 Steve283: do you think that I never let drop those screws? When they are made of steel, I can catch them with a magnet. The ones made of brass are not attracted by the magnet, I have to search them on a carpet which is light brown in color! Yesterday I finished the A/C compressor; all brackets are done as well as both fittings at each side of the compressor. On the real car, the bowl on the crankcase draft tube has an indentation to avoid an interference with the square tube of the fitting near the water pump. Did I a better design that the Ford people? Anyway, I had not to do the indentation, there is no contact between both parts. Either is the compressor lower that the real one or the ventilation tube is not located at the right place or...On the previous post, I related a possible difficulty with a generator's bracket. I solve the problem by doing an installation error. I'm wondering if you can find it! (Lincoln or Mark II owners are not allowed to answer...) 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MCHinson Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 I would guess that on the real car the bracket is angled up instead of down, but I don't think anybody is going to give you any problem over it. Your work is still very impressive to all of us who follow the discussion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 29, 2012 Author Share Posted January 29, 2012 I would guess that on the real car the bracket is angled up instead of down, but I don't think anybody is going to give you any problem over it. Your work is still very impressive to all of us who follow the discussion.The bracket is angled down on the real car. At first, I wanted to make that bracket with a curve to clear the body of the generator, but at the end I opted for a more simple solution. You have another chance to guess what I did!I know that is not at all important; unless they go under their cars, the owners of Lincolns /Mark II will probably not discover my trick right away! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kozaka Posted January 29, 2012 Share Posted January 29, 2012 u do real real good work i cant wait for u to do the body:D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 3, 2012 Author Share Posted February 3, 2012 Well...my quiz did not generate much enthusiasm! The answer is simple: on the real car, the adjusting bracket is attached at the second bold from under. I installed it at the third bolt...To kosaka: be patient! There are still some parts do be done at the frame or assemblies attached to it; then, during this year, I will begin with the floor. I still don't know if I will do it with polyester or with brass. As I'm waiting some pictures of the brake shields, I began last week the mufflers and resonators. The mufflers are done with thin brass (.2 mm or .008"); the resonators were machined. All is very light: the 4 pieces have a weight of 17 grams; one muffler is 5 grams. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 5, 2012 Author Share Posted February 5, 2012 The front stabilizer was not yet done; this shortcut is now corrected. At first glance it was an easy addition; there are some issues to take in consideration: as the stabilizer supports are about at the same "altitude" than the lower levers, an indentation is done to clear the lever when the suspension is bottoming. The front tires must not contact the stabilizer in a very tight curve like parking.<O:p</O:pThe rubber parts for the stabilizer were done with a Dow Corning product I have since about 30 years! OK, the curing takes much longer than when the product was new; by heating it, the curing is rather fast, allowing to do several parts one by one with one small quantity of mixed silicone rubber. <O:p</O:p 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keiser31 Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 Fantastically, mind boggling!!!!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest kozaka Posted February 5, 2012 Share Posted February 5, 2012 u said it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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