Paulie9fingers Posted January 17, 2022 Share Posted January 17, 2022 I think they turned out very nice, the detail you create for such small pieces always amazes me. 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 19, 2022 Author Share Posted January 19, 2022 When the band for the generator was installed and the gen again on the engine, I realized that it was time to do the air intake duct. Therefore the generator was removed again, which requires the removal of the intake/exhaust manifolds and the water pump. As I still don't have water in the engine, there is no mess with the cooling fluid. The original set up has provision to remove the water pump actuating shaft; my reproduction shaft does not have it. That rather small part was not easy to do because nothing is flat to squeeze it in a vice; the fingers acted like a vice; some are still sore! The screen at the air intake is too coarse; I'm not sure if a finer mesh is available, I doubt it. To really finish the generator and accessories, I milled the exhaust tube to shape the hexagon at the small end. 9 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Laughing Coyote Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 Just amazing as always!! 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie9fingers Posted January 19, 2022 Share Posted January 19, 2022 The cooling fluid can make things very slippery, it's a good thing you hadn't installed the fluids yet. I think the air intake looks amazing, the screen doesn't look too coarse to me. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 10 hours ago, Paulie9fingers said: I think the air intake looks amazing, the screen doesn't look too coarse to me. Because you don't have a picture from the original screen! I'm adding one, you will see the difference. 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted January 20, 2022 Share Posted January 20, 2022 If I guess that the real screen is about 3 inch diameter with screen wires about 1/16 inch apart, that would scale to about a 200 mesh screen at 1:12; that is, 200 wires per inch in each direction, each wire about 0.002 inch diameter. Screens are made in stainless steel woven wire at 200 mesh and even much finer, e.g. 500-675 mesh. When I Googled for "200 mesh screen", Ebay and Amazon show many sellers of pieces of screens with fine mesh, including single pieces about 12 in x 12 in. See https://www.ebay.com/itm/163619363323 There must be similar suppliers in Europe, if you really want finer screen. If not, I can buy a piece here, put it in an envelope, and mail it to you. A scaled-down screen at 3"/12 = 1/4 inch diameter might even get lost in the envelope! You could cut about two thousand pieces from a 12 in x 12 in piece. 😁 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 20, 2022 Author Share Posted January 20, 2022 Gary, you are really strong with your estimate: the inside diameter I did for the screen is 6.5mm which is giving more or less 3" in real life! The link you gave is suggesting a 200/inch (if I'm right) 12" x12". I'm sure it is what you are writing about. Unfortunately, that company does not export to Switzerland. By searching with google, I'm getting a bunch of Chinese offerings; buying there is not an option. There is another supplier (could be from the US) but I'm lost with his classification: the smaller the number, the finer the mesh: it is below and I could maybe order a sample from the desired mesh. That could be an alternative. Stainless Steel Mesh Screen (5, 15, 43, 74, 100, 149, 177, 300, 400, 500, 600, 800, 1000 Micron, 1/8", 1/4" Mesh) - Utah Biodiesel Supply From that site, I could order a sample 6" x 6" from the 74 Micron. If I'm right, that should be the equivalent of a 200 mesh screen. Could you please have a look and tell me if I'm right? Thanks, Gary! There are some companies in Europe which would gladly sell a complete roll...I could then stamp millions of screens! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gary_Ash Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 The 74 mesh screen on the Utah Biodiesel website is actually a "Dutch mesh" pattern with wires at 50/inch x 250/inch, won't look like the original screen. The ~74 micron size is about right, you just need to find it in 200 x 200 mesh. Image of "Dutch weave" mesh. As I wrote earlier, you can buy a small piece from a U.S. supplier and have them send it to me, or I can buy it. I'll put it in an envelope and mail it to you, I will pay the $1.30 postage to Switzerland (= much less than value of entertainment of your thread here 🙂). Here is a listing on Ebay for a 12 inch x 12 inch piece of a "straight weave" 200 mesh (75 micron) screen for $8.49, ships from California. https://www.ebay.com/itm/163619363323 Image of straight weave mesh. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John S. Posted January 21, 2022 Share Posted January 21, 2022 Roger, I love the detail you put into your work. This engine is a work of art. John 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 22, 2022 Author Share Posted January 22, 2022 16 hours ago, Gary_Ash said: As I wrote earlier, you can buy a small piece from a U.S. supplier and have them send it to me, or I can buy it. I'll put it in an envelope and mail it to you, I will pay the $1.30 postage to Switzerland (= much less than value of entertainment of your thread here 🙂). Here is a listing on Ebay for a 12 inch x 12 inch piece of a "straight weave" 200 mesh (75 micron) screen for $8.49, ships from California. https://www.ebay.com/itm/163619363323 Hi Gary It seems that I was well inspired to ask first and not buy directly! I was not aware of the difference...The link from your post is the one I found too; they do not deliver to Switzerland for whatever reason. If you agree, please order it and ship it to me. I'll gladly reimburse your costs; as I sold my '57 Brougham, I have some pocket change! I'm sure the postage will be more than $ 1.30; even if it's $ 20.00, the costs involved to build such a model are so negligible compared to the restoration's costs of a real car... I restored three, I know the difference! Anyway, thanks a lot for your involvement. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Barney Eaton Posted January 26, 2022 Share Posted January 26, 2022 Just happened upon your project.......... I am more than impressed. How many elves do you have as helpers? 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 26, 2022 Author Share Posted January 26, 2022 Thanks, Barney! First I had to look in a dictionary for "elves"! Well...there are some which are kind and others which are nasty! I cannot count them, they move all the time! 1 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 26, 2022 Author Share Posted January 26, 2022 The coarse screen issue will be solved thanks to Gary. There are still element to be done to the engine. This time, I did the vacuum pump and the fitting for the oil lines. One is going to the oil filter and the other line to the oil pressure indicator. The fake screws to the vacuum pump will be "installed" during the final assembly. The pump will be black, the crews will be painted silver. Indeed they should be chromed; I'm sure silver paint will be OK. The studs at the fitting have not the same length on the picture. This will also be corrected during the final assembly. Next step: the oil filter. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alex D. Posted January 26, 2022 Share Posted January 26, 2022 5 hours ago, Roger Zimmermann said: The fake screws to the vacuum pump will be "installed" during the final assembly. The pump will be black, the crews will be painted silver. Indeed they should be chromed; I'm sure silver paint will be OK. Roger, have you considered nickel plating some of these parts? It's a fairly easy process with white vinegar and salt solution, a nickel anode and a low volt DC power source. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 27, 2022 Author Share Posted January 27, 2022 Yes and no. I don't remember what I saw, but there are a number of chemical products I'm not comfortable with. In fact, I don't remember for what kind of plating I was searching. Due to the number of acorn nuts and bolts used on this engine, a nickel plating would be more realistic than paint. The difference between nickel and chrome plating is real, but on small parts it's negligible. The grille from the Mark II was nickel plated as it seems that its very difficult to let chrome a grille; a specific anode is needed. The front bumper and other elements for the grille were chrome plated; it's hard to see a difference. Anyway, thanks for your input. I may revise my opinion about that kind of plating and will search how and were it's available. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted January 30, 2022 Author Share Posted January 30, 2022 As stated in my previous post, I intended to do the oil filter. Fine, but it is attached at the intermediate engine support! Due to the tight space between the calculated diameter of the filter and the frame, I have to do the engine supports first. As usual, it's a casting element and not in line with the hole into the frame... 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted February 3, 2022 Share Posted February 3, 2022 Roger, As always, excellent work. I also want to comment on your camera work. From pasts threads, you have advanced leaps and bounds with the detail shots of the component that you are working on. The pics are sharp, detailed and clear. It really highlights your work when we can see, in minute detail, the part up close and really clear. A long way from the early days of the Mark II and your older camera. Plus, you have the lighting really "dialed in" and that is a major factor in shooting such minute parts such as the components that go into this engine. We all await your next installment. P.S. An update regarding the RR P2 Chassis. I am planning on getting to L A later this month to shoot that incredible chassis. I think you and the followers of this thread will appreciate a RR in the "raw". The guys at the Nethercutt really did a great job restoring that chassis and it, like your chassis, Roger, is a work of art. Something lost in todays automobile design and fabrication. When gas mileage was not an issue and they could put enough metal into the parts so they could give long life. Todays parts are "R & R". Remove and replace. No fixing the new components today. Just toss them into the garbage and hope that the replacement will last. Alas, I am getting old remembering the days of my youth rebuilding my Delco starter. installing new bushings , sanding and polishing the commutator, and installing new brushes. As long as the windings were intact, that was pretty much all there was to it. Ditto for the generator. We even had kits to rebuild the fuel pumps with new diaphrams and related parts. Nothing like that today in this throw away society. Randy 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 Randy, thanks for your comments! Do you know what's funny? The camera! I still have the same, an (now) old Sony pocket camera! Some years ago, I bought a Canon reflex camera which was a bad decision: the pictures I did on the model were way not so good than with a small camera, no matter which setting I used. You are complaining that modern vehicles cannot be repaired like the much older ones. This is right, but what would cost a vehicle made like it was done 40 or more years ago? A fortune! After all, it would maybe not be so bad, there would be less cars on the road... 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 3, 2022 Author Share Posted February 3, 2022 The rear engine supports are made with three element: the supports at the crankcase, another supports attached to the frame and a rubber bushing. I'm not sure why those engines (V8, V12 and V16) needed 3 sets of supports: at the front, at the rear of the engine and at the transmission's end. I see three possible reasons: - the middle supports help reducing the torsion of the frame (on the V-16, the distance between the first cross member and the second one is huge) - the second set avoid stress at the drivetrain by supporting it almost in the middle - it was maybe a precious help when the transmission had to be removed for repair, the engine had not to be supported In my case, I could do without that middle support set! There were some difficulties to fabricate those tiny supports: from design, the hole in the frame is not aligned with the engine flange; I had to be creative to find the correct location of the support's end towards the frame. While doing that, I noticed that the RH support has more offset than the LH one. Why? Obviously, my simple equipment does not allow a great precision... I don't know exactly how this intermediate supports are installed in real life. Most probably, the ones attached to the frame are installed; then the other support is going through the hole from the support to be attached finally to the engine. To complete the set-up, the bushing is pushed from the outside and is secured with a large nut. In my case, I have to attach the parts differently: the middle supports are screwed to the engine (because I cannot torque the screws when the engine is on the frame); the external supports are pushed on the internal one like shown on one picture; then the engine is installed on the frame with some rotating movements. When the engine is secured at the front crossmember and the rear, the external middle supports can be attached to the frame and the rubber bushing pushed in place. I will have to remember this curious method, the sole which is practical! For practical reasons both heads were removed for this task. Now I really can begin the oil filter. The holes for its support can be seen on the last picture. 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
prewarnut Posted February 5, 2022 Share Posted February 5, 2022 On 1/26/2022 at 6:16 PM, Alex D. said: Roger, have you considered nickel plating some of these parts? It's a fairly easy process with white vinegar and salt solution, a nickel anode and a low volt DC power source. I already made this plea but he didn't want to....I would again suggest it but after this comment I won't keep badgering. My source is: https://www.goldplating.com/ out of Layton, UT. One doesn't have to buy their whole kits but if savy can just buy the containers and parts needed for one operation. They have videos and used to have material data sheets on-line for view (they may still have but I had a hard time finding just now). If worried about fumes this can be done outside or in an open garage. With eye protection and gloves there really isn't any reason a person would have trouble doing this safely. Jewelers do this all the time and trust me it's really the Rhodium plating that's a bear.....I've done cyanide-based gold plating without problems as well. BTW nickel plating can change the dimension of materials by a few hundredths of a mm depending on how thick a coating is used so one needs to keep that in consideration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 5, 2022 Author Share Posted February 5, 2022 Thanks for your comments. I did not search about that because I'm so far away! I will have to search locally for a solution, because importing something like that is not practical: US is still "enjoying" 110V when whole Europe has 220V. Liquids cannot be sent by regular shipping methods. Some chemical products cannot be bought in Switzerland by individuals like me, we have a very restrictive regulation. I know that some kits are available in France; I have the possibility to buy there, like I did for a tin solution. First I still have to build about 1000 components... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 The original oil filter holder is made with sheet metal and its shape is too complicated for my taste, therefore I simplified a bit and soft welded the braces and the bolts to the supports. The oil canister was a rather simple job. Yesterday, I had a funny adventure: a bit of brass was silver soldered to the holder's base. Usually, to clean the flux resulting from silver soldering, I'm putting for 1/2 hour the fresh soldered part into a glass jar containing vinegar. When finished, I'm purring the vinegar back into a bottle. Then, water is coming into the jar. After that, the water is dumped into the kitchen's sink taking care that the part(s) is staying into the jar. Yesterday, I had the impression that the tiny part went away with the water through my fingers. I saw nothing into the vinegar's bottle, nothing into the small glass jar. Where went that part? Most probably into the siphon trap...So, Christine and me began to remove the tubes under the sink, which is never easy. Next to the bad odor and accumulated dirt, we found nothing. Well, we thought, it was probably taken away with the water; it's time to do another part. When I wanted to store away the glass jar, I saw that damned part, not at the bottom, but near the top! All that trouble for almost nothing, except clean tubes in the kitchen! 8 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted February 7, 2022 Share Posted February 7, 2022 Those parts are so small I'm not surprised that they can defy gravity!! There are few tasks around the house I dread more than the tasks under the sink. Lovely work as always Roger. 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 7, 2022 Author Share Posted February 7, 2022 It's what I discovered yesterday... 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 Roger, Look at it this way. Now Christine does not have to deal with any odors that may decide to "rise" up when she (or you) are at the kitchen sink. I clean my traps regularly as food and small bits of what ever I am cleaning in the sink seem to always "stick" at the P trap. The P trap below the sink comes off easily. It is PVC pipe and the sections have a compression fitting that easily unscrews. In the old days (before PVC) the brass and or chromed plated steel piping material seemed to always corrode and I had a dandy of a time getting the damn pipes/trap disconnected and even breaking. In San Diego area, our water is from the Colorado river and full of alkalai. No friend of metal plumbing parts. Now, with the PVC pipes and P Trap, it is a snap. You would be amazed how much "gunk" and debris gets trapped there due to cooking oil residue and such that coats the pipes leaving an attractant for all the food waste that is drained out of the sink. In six months time, it would amaze you to see how much build up you get. Keeping the P trap cleaned out eliminates odors and makes for a freer flowing drain. Just saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 13, 2022 Author Share Posted February 13, 2022 After 10 years of use, the accumulated dirt was acceptable...As the elements are made with PVC. As you noted, easy to unscrew. The number of accessories to this kind of engines is incredible... After the oil filter, it was time to do the construction holding the bracketry for the starter motor and the activation of the chokes. They are activated be a lever at each side of a long shaft supported by a tube. As drilling a hole of 1 mm in diameter into a piece about 30mm (1.2") long is not possible with my tools, I ordered a tube 1.5 OD/1.1 ID which will arrive next week. In between, the activating system for the starter motor kept me busy for some time. Thanks for the various pictures I have, I could evaluate the dimensions of all elements. Probably most of you don't know that the starter motor is activated by a pedal pushed by the driver; the pedal is located almost in the middle of the car. This pedal is not yet done; dimension wise, it's also a guess as I forgot to clearly photography it. As you can see on the first picture, the actuating lever is away from the motor's switch; on the second picture, it's pushing the round button. A spring will be added to hold back the actuating lever. 12 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Hollingsworth Posted February 13, 2022 Share Posted February 13, 2022 It is odd to begin thinking of the day that this will all come apart and be painted (or plated as may be), but it will surely arrive. We may be surprised at the amount of black paint that will not allow as much contrast as the shadows and light have been providing. Authenticity is important, but sometimes a childlike pallet of color is a nice thing. I'll still support the 'real' version. Wonderful education about the V-16 Cadillac and a superb display of modeling talent. Thank you, Roger, as always. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 14, 2022 Author Share Posted February 14, 2022 Thanks Pat! Fortunately, there will be not much black paint: the engine crankcase and pan are staying aluminum color; many accessories, levers, and lines will be either nickel or chrome plated. I agree that the black paint on the main parts is hiding most details. This is why I painted the Avanti engine red metallic and not black as original engines are. 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Luv2Wrench Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 Such a work of art. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JamesR Posted February 14, 2022 Share Posted February 14, 2022 Roger: Do you consider this model (up to this point, at least) the best work you've done in your life so far? It seems that way to me, but I don't know enough about your other models (though the Continental Mark II is pretty well documented.) It would be interesting to know what criteria you use to evaluate your own work. Or if you even bother evaluating your own work. Sorry if this question has been asked before. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 15, 2022 Author Share Posted February 15, 2022 Anyway, James, thanks for asking! This is a difficult question. My actual project is an assembly of many casting parts; cars from the fifties or sixties had similar parts which were just stamped sheet metal, therefore less spectacular. Those cars had also much less lines, rods and other external details. The time factor is also decisive about the part's quality: many ears ago, I had the propension to cut corners because it would require too much time to do it right. Now, I don't care. I'm building what I can, how long I can without having a deadline. If I have to redo something, I'll do it without too much regret... 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 We continue with the engine's accessories. One which is not in plain view is a tube or conduit for the spark plug wires. This conduit has 2 studs on top of it to attach the long cover hiding most of the ignition system. Two ignition wires are emerging at each oval holes; the four last wires are exiting at the rear of the tube. 7 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paulie9fingers Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 Roger the engine and accessories are looking great. As I have done a few times I went back in time and reviewed the entire build to be able to keep everything in perspective, reviewing the build makes it all that much more incredible. This time I selected a page a little far back in time so I got to enjoy a dozen or so pages of the Studebaker again. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 17, 2022 Author Share Posted February 17, 2022 Thank you for looking at the previous pages on a regular basis! Doing it that way, the build of the model is getting quicker... 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Hollingsworth Posted February 17, 2022 Share Posted February 17, 2022 I, too, return for a review of past installments of your work. Some visits are prompted by a faded memory, others from something spotted anew in the photos of the newest works. And, Roger, sometimes I do it just for FUN! I really enjoy seeing this stuff. 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 18, 2022 Author Share Posted February 18, 2022 Thanks to you also for coming back at the old pages! 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Hollingsworth Posted February 18, 2022 Share Posted February 18, 2022 Roger, the reason that Paul, myself, and I bet, many others go back for another look is because we are enjoying what you so delightfully offer to us. Many a day your posts have brightened a dull stretch, and even in a good run you can bring a nicer glow to the day. Thanks, from all. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Randiego Posted February 20, 2022 Share Posted February 20, 2022 Roger, I just hope that the threads are available for some time. As long as you are building the Cadillac, the previous threads are available. I just hope that they are archived in the AACA Forums permanently. Does anyone know how long the threads are kept? Randy 4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Zimmermann Posted February 23, 2022 Author Share Posted February 23, 2022 The logical continuation was to do the valley's cover. This part is indeed just a styling element with the benefit to protect the spark plus and wiring from the dust or debris. Anyway, this part is a nice complement to the valve covers. The original part is stamped, a process I cannot do. The various elements are soft soldered on the main plate. The curious shape at the rear was probably necessary for the first V-16 generation, but not for this one. With so few cars sold with that engine, some cost cutting was a necessity! 10 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pat Hollingsworth Posted February 23, 2022 Share Posted February 23, 2022 Ha! Look at the pattern they used for the stiffening ribs on the metal plate. Even the Lincoln designers couldn't resist the fine appearance of the shape- so they took it for the emblem still in use to this day! Yep, those Caddy guys were building a product of the sort that appeals even to the competition. Seriously, that piece of work is flawless. The even fit along the cylinder heads is really nice work- take a bow, Roger. 4 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now