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Adam4t

1965 Buick Wildcat Help?

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I have a couple other problems with it I suppose aren't bad but to be honest I don't know much about cars.

It torches over just idolling.

It's also missing the chrome on the left side from the back of the door to half way over the tire because when my great grandma used to drive it she got in a wreck and lost the chrome.

Also the sealing on the doors, windows, etc... is all dried up and rotted....

Another problem is I cannot get the trunk open. I'm sure if I turned hard enough it would open but I don't want to break the key off in there.

Also, I want to get hinges that would old the hood open. Any ideas about that also?

Let's see if we can knock these out:

1. "Torches over idling" Do you mean it floods and then stalls? Sounds like you need a carb kit or a new carb, depending on the condition of your current carb. The 401s came with a Rochester 4GC or Carter AFB, depending on the plant and build date. I have had both on mine, and I can tell you the Carter is a better carb. If you have the Carter unit and it is in good shape, I recommend rebuilding it or taking it to a well-known, well-recommended carb shop.

BEFORE you do that, I urge you take a Dremel and scribe a unique number on the body of the carb, such as your drivers license number or your name. I've heard reports of shops swapping out a good, unmolested carb with one that has been rebuilt so many times, it barely works. Make sure the shop knows that number or your name is on the body of the carb and you expect to get THAT carb back; you are not doing an exchange.

2. Missing chrome trim is going to be a Sherlock Holmes adventure. Best bet is the Buick-specific junkyards out West, or ebay. You will pay for that piece of trim becuase it is unique to your year and model, but that is the most likely way you will find it.

3. Door weatherstrip: Steele and a couple of other companies are making replacement kits for Buicks that share those pieces with other GM cars such as the much more common Impala or when the pieces are used on several GM cars. Try the Steele Web site or call them and order some catalogues.

4. Trunk lock: Do NOT force the key. On the Wildcat, the lock assembly is attached to a flat metal piece that turns the lock a few inches in from the edge of the trunk. That piece may have come off of the lock cylinder. If you have a trunk opener in the glove box that doesn't work, it is vacuum-operated and may have a broken or worn (swollen) vacuum line from the engine. If you have a hand-operated vacuum pump, you can disconnect the vacuum line from the back of the switch in the glove box, pump the vacuum down and see if the trunk opens.

I would recommend you inspect it closely to see if all the pieces are intact and attached. If not, reassemble them (you might have to fabricate some clips out of strong steel wire) and keep working the assembly with the key until it opens WITHOUT closing the trunk.

If you don't think you can fix it yourself, I would recommend taking it to an OLD established locksmith (the newer ones have never seen a lock like yours) and get his recommendation. Also, while at the locksmith, have him clean out the lock cylinder, replace any worn pins and make at least one extra trunk key.

Hope this helps.

Joe

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In my 55 Special I had the Radio repaired by a local man who also had the speaker recored (rebuilt) and it sounds pretty good. I also added a ready-rad that is advertised in the Bugle and now can hook CD players, MP3 players and FM radios directlty to the original radio and listen to what I like. It sound really good with the ready-rad hooked up and everything is hidden. I ran the connector wire into the glove box and I can put my cd player in there and pug it in and no one can see it while it is working.

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Joe, all that information sounds great! This weekend I'm going to clean the carb and I'll remove the rear seat to try to get in the trunk to open it... The vacuum line I honestlly have never heard of but I'll take a check.

As for the chrome, I know it'll cost me an arm and a leg just looking for the right original piece, but if it really takes that long I can take the car into a body shop and have the chrome from the right side fitted and have a new piece made.

As for weatherstripping, luckily my vava, bless her heart, kept everything. I have a piece of paper from when the buick was new from when she had the trunk weatherstripped so I'll take a second look at that.

And going back to the trunk, I don't know of any old locksmiths in town but I can take it to an antique body shop.

But thanks again for all the help!

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I pulled out the back seat, and I can't get into the trunk. The spare tires in the way, and even if it wasn't, I wouldn't be able to fit without taking out the seat support frame... Not quite sure how I'm going to get the trunk open, I couldn't find a vacuum line. I'm going to have to pick the lock somehow, because I really don't want to spend $120 to have a locksmith pick it for me...

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Adam,

Do you have a remote trunk switch in the glove compartment? If so, the vacuum line connects to the back of the switch where an electrical connector would be on a modern switch. One line is the vacuum source from the engine, and the other line goes to the trunk.

Joe

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Take the lock off the glove compartment door and take that to a locksmith.

They can make you a new key from that and it should fit the trunk.

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I have a key that fits in both the glove compartment and the trunk, because I've opened the trunk before and locked the glove compartment before. I just can't turn the key, and I can't remember what I had to do to get the trunk open before.... I pretty much hosed it down with WD40 but it just wouldn't budge... Like I said, I pulled the back seat out but I can't fit to get through the trunk, the spare tires there and the seat support bracket is too small for me to even fit.

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This is where child labour comes in handy :D

It was probably earlier in the thread, but is there a means to pop it from inside, or do you need to get there to dismantle? If the former, you may be able to fashion a "tool on a pole" to pop it.

The other suggestion I would make would be to get away from WD-40. PB Blaster and other penetrating fluids may do a better job. I would even consider 3-in-1 / sewing machine / tool oil if the lock is believed to be frozen by a bit of corrosion. Of course, if some foreign material got in there, or something broke, it isn't likely to work regardless.

Worst case, you should be able to find another lock to replace this one after you bust it open with a screwdriver or similar.

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Well, I could try the "tool on a pole" haha but I don't think I'll be able to see very well, the spare tires right in the middle so I'd have to go from the sides so it'd probably have to be somewhat flexible. I really don't want to break the lock either, I just want it opened so I can change the pins, because that's all I can think of why it won't open. I mean, I opened it no longer than a year ago, so I don't see how a year of not much rain could have corroded it.

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Adam,

If you know you have a good key and can't get into the trunk, try GENTLY moving the key up and down, in and out, in very, very small incriments while you try to turn the lock. It sounds like you have a worn notch on the key, or a piece of debris has gotten into the lock. Moving it around while trying to get it to open may be your best bet without damaging the lock.

Also, call your locksmith and see if he thinks he can get it to open.

Joe

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23 hours ago....I wonder if Adam's still wiggling that key?

Either that or it worked and he's still unloading his treasure. :)

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Haha I wish I got it opened. I tried wiggling it, wouldn't budge. I guess I'll HAVE to call a locksmith... :[

.. and I wish there was a treasure under there, from what I remember it's a spare tire and enough rust to... well, it's all rusted. :o

That's it. :P

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