Guest Adam4t Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 (edited) ResolvedBasically what I want is an FM Radio in my '65 Wildcat. But I want it to be classic looking not all electronical and what-not. So if anyone could help me it'd be appreciated.I looked on jcwhitney and I couldn't really find anything. So I'm guessing I'd need a stock radio from a Buick of similar year? Like 64-68? It would be VERY appreciated if I could get some help.I have a couple other problems with it I suppose aren't bad but to be honest I don't know much about cars. It torches over just idolling. It's also missing the chrome on the left side from the back of the door to half way over the tire because when my great grandma used to drive it she got in a wreck and lost the chrome. Also the sealing on the doors, windows, etc... is all dried up and rotted so I need to buy replacements but I'm not sure exactly what I'm supposed to be looking for or if anything would work because again like I said I don't know much and don't really have help with it. Another problem is I cannot get the trunk open. I'm sure if I turned hard enough it would open but I don't want to break the key off in there. I sprayed it with WD40 and I figited the lock with the key to try to get it to shift itself but I couldn't get it to work.Also, I want to get hinges that would old the hood open. Any ideas about that also? Edited February 17, 2010 by Adam4t Added more questions. (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest WEB 38 Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 If you have a stock am radio all you need is an fm converter, all you do is set your am radio to a set station on your dial and dial in your fm stations on the converter it is small and can be hidden under the dash, They have been around for a long time and can be found on Ebay or at swap meets. Hope this helps Bill WEB 38 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest windjamer Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 My Classic Car had a co. on about two weeks ago that sells radios for what your looking for. maby you could check the station for the name of the co. exact replacas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gungeey Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 Basically what I want is an FM Radio in my '65 Wildcat. But I want it to be classic looking not all electronical and what-not. So if anyone could help me it'd be appreciated.I looked on jcwhitney and I couldn't really find anything. So I'm guessing I'd need a stock radio from a Buick of similar year? Like 64-68? It would be VERY appreciated if I could get some help.Just get an AM FM factory radio from that era. Plugs right into the harness and bolts right into the dash. It says B U I C K on the five preset buttons... doesn't get any more classic than that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted February 15, 2010 Share Posted February 15, 2010 So as regular AM/FM Radio's go, I could use this?: 1965 Buick Electra AM/FM Radio : eBay Motors (item 320480705381 end time Feb-26-10 16:39:36 PST)I mean I don't want to spend $260 on a Rdio but I guess if that's all I could do.. And I'll probably end up buying an Antenna Booster, would that help with the converter too?And an FM converter would be like this?: VINTAGE FM RADIO CONVERTER : eBay Motors (item 370332885918 end time Feb-15-10 19:19:12 PST) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnD1956 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Consider this. the 65 full size is an oddball radio because of the location in the dash. The radio has that odd concave face which impacts the radio dial. 66 and 67 Skylark radios are also oddballs, due to the angle the radio sits in the dash. If you can find a factory AM/FM for the 65, you're pretty much at the sellers mercy. But don't expect that radio to sound good. Don't expect the stock AM radio with an FM converter to sound good either. They just were not designed to compete with todays amplifiers and speakers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wildcat465 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 If I had a '65 Cat, I would be jumping on that radio smokin' fast! Older radios usually do not cost that much to repair if it needs it. That would give you classic looks, perfect dash fit and the tunes you want to hear! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I found a Buick AM/FM Delco radio at a swap meet many years ago, supposed to have been out of a '65 or '66 LeSabre and it fit my '68 LeSabre just fine.To me, if the eBay seller's radio has a multiplex plug in the back, it can easily be worth what he wants for it, "as is, where is", but that's still too much money with no performance guarantee. Of course, if he had the multiplex box to go with it, the price would be very justified!The multiplex plug (think "stereo", but a different way of getting it) is about the size of a dime and is held in with a retainer screw. Under it is an RCA 8-pin plug (or thereabouts) that connects to the multiplex box that divides the output into 2 channels, which then uses the add-on external fader to get front/rear channels and "stereo" (before GM really had 4-speaker stereo in '67, in many vehicles).Many GM radios back then used "internal ground" speakers. Using a more modern speaker is no problem, although the earlier speakers were 10-ohm and all replacement speakers are 4 ohm rated. The factory wiring harness is color coded and such, with dedicated plug terminals. To use the later speakers, which usually have different width lug terminals for correct phasing, just make a jumper wire for the same-width terminals and jumper it to one of the speaker's mounting screws to "ground" it electrically. You might be surprised how good the factory radio will sound with just a change of speakers! NO earth-thumping bass, but good, balanced sound from top to bottom at moderate listening levels.The factory repro look-alike radios on My Classic Car and also in a recent Chevy magazine I found look accurate and great, but have modern electronics in amp and tuning, unlike some of the retro-ized radios that look like pure aftermarket radios. I somewhat doubt they have any for Buicks, yet. So that leaves finding a decent factory radio as the only real option you might have.Finding an aftermarket radio that will fit the dash, at this time, is pretty much impossible. THAT's what JCWhitney and others would have--aftermarket not OEM. The shaft spacing on Delco radios was unique to radios from other makers, back then, or even later model radios from Delco. That, plus the contours of the faceplate to match the instrument panel contours mean you'll need to know what you're looking at when you might look at a radio somebody's trying to sell you. Somewhere, there is a Delco Radio book which lists all of the Delco radios and what they fit, by the tag numbers . . . but I haven't seen one of those in years.Just some thoughts,NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick840 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 If I had a '65 Cat, I would be jumping on that radio smokin' fast! Older radios usually do not cost that much to repair if it needs it. That would give you classic looks, perfect dash fit and the tunes you want to hear!Dito!If that radio is as clean as described with no pitting I think I would grab it.It's always nice to go original and my 65 Wildcat with the original AM/FM has a very nice sound. OK ........it's not going to blast you out of the car like a modern verson but it will still sound decent and look great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest my3buicks Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 (edited) I have to somewhat disagree about the sound of the older radios. The AM/FM, and the 8 track player in my 67, and the one that was in my 69 Electra have really excellent sound. The 67 has the optional rear speaker and the sound is full, rich and clear. Same with the 69. The 72 has a fantastic radio, but it has the top of the line am/fm Stereo with the front and rear dual speakers.If the unit is working properly, and the speakers are in good condition, sound will be good.Reception has never been an issue for me either.Nothing beats the true sound of the radio/stereo of your cars eraI loved turning on the tube radio in my 53, listening to the hum as it warmed up, and the rich, full tone of an oldies station playing as I cruised down the highway.Wow, got lost in a daydream there : ) Edited February 16, 2010 by my3buicks (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest wildcat465 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Dito!If that radio is as clean as described with no pitting I think I would grab it.It's always nice to go original and my 65 Wildcat with the original AM/FM has a very nice sound. OK ........it's not going to blast you out of the car like a modern verson but it will still sound decent and look great.Yes Brian, that radio in your 65 does sound good. I wish I would have thought to take a picture of the dash on the way to Iola when Bob had an 8 track to cassette adapter in the 8 track with a cassette to CD adapter in that!I hope you enjoy driving that sweet ride as much as Bob did. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Glassesguy Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 That concave dial is unique to 1965. I was fortunate to acquire an AM FM from a 65 Electra to fit my 65 Lesabre and it's a perfect fit. My car came with an AM radio and I used an underdash FM converter for a while. It worked great. Removed it and returned it to a friend only after I acquired the AM FM. Price on this one seems a little steep, but it's your call. i agree with Keith on the sound of the older radios. I'm looking forward to installing the reverb unit I picked up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Well, I really really think the price is steep for a radio and being only 14 and nobody that would loan me for just a radio whereas family would lend me a couple grand to buy a classic truck or car. I think I'll just start out with a Antenna Booster and see how much that helps... I mean really AM Radio wouldn't be a problem but there aren't Country stations that I can find. Mostly hispanics and debating. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buick840 Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 Yes Brian, that radio in your 65 does sound good. I wish I would have thought to take a picture of the dash on the way to Iola when Bob had an 8 track to cassette adapter in the 8 track with a cassette to CD adapter in that!I hope you enjoy driving that sweet ride as much as Bob did.Hi Paul,Yep I sure am enjoying driving the Wildcat:DI bought some 8 tracks from the 60's and play them regularly. With the front and rear speakers it really sounds great. Did you take any photos of the trip with the car and at the Nationals........I'd love to have some to keep with the car. I've tracked it history back to the original owneers and spoke to them. Theysent me some photos of the car from back in the 70's.....I'll see if I can post them in another new post ( I had better stop hijacking this post ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TxBuicks Posted February 16, 2010 Share Posted February 16, 2010 I agree with my3buicks. To me, that's part of the enjoyment of driving an old Buick. My 1961 Electra has the original AM radio with one speaker. It takes about 20 seconds to warm up. That's a novelty today. Listening to it is part of taking the journey back to 1961. It would not be the same with a modern sounding radio. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Well, I really really think the price is steep for a radio and being only 14 and nobody that would loan me for just a radio whereas family would lend me a couple grand to buy a classic truck or car. I think I'll just start out with a Antenna Booster and see how much that helps... I mean really AM Radio wouldn't be a problem but there aren't Country stations that I can find. Mostly hispanics and debating.Not having country stations isn't a bad thing At your age, once you start driving the car, I would recommend you not worry about a radio for a while. Listen to the car and pay attention to what it is telling you. You can learn a lot from hearing the car and it can help you when things go wrong, possibly even prevent damage.Another, less expensive option, if you want FM / CD / MP3 is to get a smallish portable player. It can fill your itch for tunes and you can either take it with you or lock it in the trunk when not in use. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted February 17, 2010 Share Posted February 17, 2010 Not having country stations isn't a bad thing At your age, once you start driving the car, I would recommend you not worry about a radio for a while. Listen to the car and pay attention to what it is telling you. You can learn a lot from hearing the car and it can help you when things go wrong, possibly even prevent damage.Another, less expensive option, if you want FM / CD / MP3 is to get a smallish portable player. It can fill your itch for tunes and you can either take it with you or lock it in the trunk when not in use.Yup that's what I figured I'd do now that I thought about it. I have a couple other problems with it I suppose aren't bad but to be honest I don't know much about cars. It torches over just idolling. It's also missing the chrome on the left side from the back of the door to half way over the tire because when my great grandma used to drive it she got in a wreck and lost the chrome. Also the sealing on the doors, windows, etc... is all dried up and rotted so I need to buy replacements but I'm not sure exactly what I'm supposed to be looking for or if anything would work because again like I said I don't know much and don't really have help with it. Another problem is I cannot get the trunk open. I'm sure if I turned hard enough it would open but I don't want to break the key off in there. I sprayed it with WD40 and I figited the lock with the key to try to get it to shift itself but I couldn't get it to work.Also, I want to get hinges that would old the hood open. Any ideas about that also? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 It's not the hinges, but the SPRINGS on the hinges that hold it open. Usually, if a salvage yard will sell you the springs, they will also sell you the hinges they are attached to, so you get a complete assembly for each side. When the car was much newer, you if you ordered hinges, they'd be just hinges with no springs, as the springs were sold separately. Just the difference in how the manufacturers sell parts and how the salvage yards do it.Usually, though, the hinges and springs were designed to be something of "over center" in action. In other words, if you opened the hood less than 1/2 way, it would use spring tension to close the hood, but if you opened it farther, it would go ahead and open farther and stay open, usually. So, you might lube the hinge pivot points and see if that might help it stay open when it should be open . . . of course, it'll make it easier to close too.Is the deck lid lock working OR is the deck lid weatherstrip holding the deck lid closed? To see if the latch and key cylinder are working, you can remove the rear seat (bottom first and then the "lean back") and crawl through the rear body diagonal braces, over the spar tire, and then get inside the trunk. Usually, there is a slot on the inside of the latch which can be activated with a flat screwdriver to activate the latch from the inside, key or no key on the outside. Of course . . . leave a suitable exit via the inside of the car, just in case!!!!You can check the Steele Rubber website for their online rubber weatherstripping catalog. That should yield the weatherstrips you might want to replace AND be correct for the car. You might also pickup a Super Chevy magazine to get an idea of places to look for some of the more popular things, then check the websites for Buick items.Good luck on your activities!NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted February 19, 2010 Share Posted February 19, 2010 I honestly didn't know I could remove the rear seat. I will try that and see where it gets me. I'll probably go on JC Whitney again and look for springs. So the Steele Rubber Website I can get the weatherstrippings. Do you know about the chrome? Would I need to check e-bay? Also, my friend said to put a steel motor mount in it to put the torch into the rear tires. I don't really care about speed but it's a little disturbing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NTX5467 Posted February 20, 2010 Share Posted February 20, 2010 Solid motor mounts have NOTHING to do with "layin' rubber"--period! Replace the existing motor mounts, if needed, with STOCK ones ONLY--period!I've seen some "racers" that thought they needed solid side motor mounts, replacing the existing and deteriorated rubber mounts. All they accomplished was cracking the side of the engine block where the mounts attached to the block, no more. Kind of an expensive mistake . . . especially considering the limited availability of Buick engines compared to dime-a-dozen Chevy engines in the salvage yards. The ONLY real way to get away from side motor mounts is to use front mounts, which attach to the front of the engine (ala '55-'57 Chevrolet and many GM medium or heavy-duty trucks from that same era) so the engine's reaction torque will be transferred by more substantial areas of the engine block than the side of the block casting (i.e., front and rear). I don't think you would want to go to the trouble and expense to fabricate flat steel "elephant ear" mounts for the front and rear of the engine.If you want an upgrade, you might consider the mounts with polyurethane in place of rubber, if they are available for Buicks, BUT anything you use other than the normal rubber will result in greater transmission of engine vibration into the frame of the car and the resulting feel of "smoooothness" that used to be there.Just replace the existing mounts with new ones and be done with it. IF you might desire a "fail safe" situation, that can be fabricated separately with some tabs and a short length of heavy wire cable (ala '67 Chevy "field fix kit" from that era, before interlocking motor mounts were used on those cars).JCWhitney has a whole lot of "stuff" in the catalog, but probably not hood springs or hinges as they probably are NOT available in the aftermarket. It can be a good place to shop and dream, although they have many good things, but probably not a whole lot of stuff specific to middle-'60s Buicks. You might have better luck with RockAuto Auto Parts, at least to see what might be available from non-OEM or non-restoration industry sources. I have seen some things in there, specific to certain vehicles, which have better prices than I've found other places for the same parts, so it can be good to use several shopping sources.Factory production "bright trim" will have to be sourced from salvage yards or online auctions (of which eBay is ONE). There are a couple of salvage yards which specialize in Buicks, some advertise in THE BUGLE, where such trim might be obtained--used.If you might really want to "torch the tires", you can pour some transmission fluid over the rear tires prior to attempting a "giant smokey burnout", but be careful as such amounts of "smoke" can attract local fire department operatives to see what's going on. Also, be cognizant than in such situations, the "rocks" in asphalt can become shrapnel behind the car, as "popping" concrete can, also, as the heat of the spinning tires heats up the road surface enough to separate them from the base road surface . . . it might look good, but there are some "concerns" which some might not be aware of.Enjoy!NTX5467 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 I'm not interested in using this as a "racing car" haha. I'm probably going to just leave it as-is for now. See where it takes me. Thank you very much for the website link, I think I can find my fancy there, much more precise than JC Whitney. I needed new wipers too and that website has everything and then some. Your help is very much appreciated! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted February 21, 2010 Share Posted February 21, 2010 I have a '66 with the 401. While it isn't a race car, there is plenty of torque to get the two tons of Buick moving. There is a seat of the pants experience already without mucking with a good thing.If you do opt for performance goodies down the road, there are many here who have varying levels of experience and have made modifications from minor to pretty much full blown race engines. The only thing I would suggest is that you may want to consider posting those specific thoughts in the "Performance / Modified" forum.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted February 23, 2010 Share Posted February 23, 2010 How about some pictures of that '65 Cat? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted February 24, 2010 Share Posted February 24, 2010 How about some pictures of that '65 Cat?I sure can I'll post some later of the interior, but the interior is sun-rotted because for pretty much 20 years it had just been sitting there. :'[I'll post them in a couple hours. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Timothy26 Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 Do anybody know where you can get a catalog for a 65 buick lesabre for parts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted March 16, 2010 Share Posted March 16, 2010 ResolvedI have a couple other problems with it I suppose aren't bad but to be honest I don't know much about cars. It torches over just idolling. It's also missing the chrome on the left side from the back of the door to half way over the tire because when my great grandma used to drive it she got in a wreck and lost the chrome. Also the sealing on the doors, windows, etc... is all dried up and rotted.... Another problem is I cannot get the trunk open. I'm sure if I turned hard enough it would open but I don't want to break the key off in there. Also, I want to get hinges that would old the hood open. Any ideas about that also?Let's see if we can knock these out:1. "Torches over idling" Do you mean it floods and then stalls? Sounds like you need a carb kit or a new carb, depending on the condition of your current carb. The 401s came with a Rochester 4GC or Carter AFB, depending on the plant and build date. I have had both on mine, and I can tell you the Carter is a better carb. If you have the Carter unit and it is in good shape, I recommend rebuilding it or taking it to a well-known, well-recommended carb shop. BEFORE you do that, I urge you take a Dremel and scribe a unique number on the body of the carb, such as your drivers license number or your name. I've heard reports of shops swapping out a good, unmolested carb with one that has been rebuilt so many times, it barely works. Make sure the shop knows that number or your name is on the body of the carb and you expect to get THAT carb back; you are not doing an exchange. 2. Missing chrome trim is going to be a Sherlock Holmes adventure. Best bet is the Buick-specific junkyards out West, or ebay. You will pay for that piece of trim becuase it is unique to your year and model, but that is the most likely way you will find it. 3. Door weatherstrip: Steele and a couple of other companies are making replacement kits for Buicks that share those pieces with other GM cars such as the much more common Impala or when the pieces are used on several GM cars. Try the Steele Web site or call them and order some catalogues. 4. Trunk lock: Do NOT force the key. On the Wildcat, the lock assembly is attached to a flat metal piece that turns the lock a few inches in from the edge of the trunk. That piece may have come off of the lock cylinder. If you have a trunk opener in the glove box that doesn't work, it is vacuum-operated and may have a broken or worn (swollen) vacuum line from the engine. If you have a hand-operated vacuum pump, you can disconnect the vacuum line from the back of the switch in the glove box, pump the vacuum down and see if the trunk opens. I would recommend you inspect it closely to see if all the pieces are intact and attached. If not, reassemble them (you might have to fabricate some clips out of strong steel wire) and keep working the assembly with the key until it opens WITHOUT closing the trunk. If you don't think you can fix it yourself, I would recommend taking it to an OLD established locksmith (the newer ones have never seen a lock like yours) and get his recommendation. Also, while at the locksmith, have him clean out the lock cylinder, replace any worn pins and make at least one extra trunk key. Hope this helps. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest sintid58 Posted March 20, 2010 Share Posted March 20, 2010 In my 55 Special I had the Radio repaired by a local man who also had the speaker recored (rebuilt) and it sounds pretty good. I also added a ready-rad that is advertised in the Bugle and now can hook CD players, MP3 players and FM radios directlty to the original radio and listen to what I like. It sound really good with the ready-rad hooked up and everything is hidden. I ran the connector wire into the glove box and I can put my cd player in there and pug it in and no one can see it while it is working. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted March 23, 2010 Share Posted March 23, 2010 Joe, all that information sounds great! This weekend I'm going to clean the carb and I'll remove the rear seat to try to get in the trunk to open it... The vacuum line I honestlly have never heard of but I'll take a check. As for the chrome, I know it'll cost me an arm and a leg just looking for the right original piece, but if it really takes that long I can take the car into a body shop and have the chrome from the right side fitted and have a new piece made.As for weatherstripping, luckily my vava, bless her heart, kept everything. I have a piece of paper from when the buick was new from when she had the trunk weatherstripped so I'll take a second look at that.And going back to the trunk, I don't know of any old locksmiths in town but I can take it to an antique body shop.But thanks again for all the help! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 I pulled out the back seat, and I can't get into the trunk. The spare tires in the way, and even if it wasn't, I wouldn't be able to fit without taking out the seat support frame... Not quite sure how I'm going to get the trunk open, I couldn't find a vacuum line. I'm going to have to pick the lock somehow, because I really don't want to spend $120 to have a locksmith pick it for me... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Adam, Do you have a remote trunk switch in the glove compartment? If so, the vacuum line connects to the back of the switch where an electrical connector would be on a modern switch. One line is the vacuum source from the engine, and the other line goes to the trunk. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted March 24, 2010 Share Posted March 24, 2010 Take the lock off the glove compartment door and take that to a locksmith.They can make you a new key from that and it should fit the trunk. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 It doesn't have a remote trunk switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted March 25, 2010 Share Posted March 25, 2010 Adam, Brian is right! It should be the same key. Thanks, Brian. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 I have a key that fits in both the glove compartment and the trunk, because I've opened the trunk before and locked the glove compartment before. I just can't turn the key, and I can't remember what I had to do to get the trunk open before.... I pretty much hosed it down with WD40 but it just wouldn't budge... Like I said, I pulled the back seat out but I can't fit to get through the trunk, the spare tires there and the seat support bracket is too small for me to even fit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thriller Posted March 27, 2010 Share Posted March 27, 2010 This is where child labour comes in handy It was probably earlier in the thread, but is there a means to pop it from inside, or do you need to get there to dismantle? If the former, you may be able to fashion a "tool on a pole" to pop it.The other suggestion I would make would be to get away from WD-40. PB Blaster and other penetrating fluids may do a better job. I would even consider 3-in-1 / sewing machine / tool oil if the lock is believed to be frozen by a bit of corrosion. Of course, if some foreign material got in there, or something broke, it isn't likely to work regardless. Worst case, you should be able to find another lock to replace this one after you bust it open with a screwdriver or similar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted March 28, 2010 Share Posted March 28, 2010 Well, I could try the "tool on a pole" haha but I don't think I'll be able to see very well, the spare tires right in the middle so I'd have to go from the sides so it'd probably have to be somewhat flexible. I really don't want to break the lock either, I just want it opened so I can change the pins, because that's all I can think of why it won't open. I mean, I opened it no longer than a year ago, so I don't see how a year of not much rain could have corroded it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Reatta Man Posted April 1, 2010 Share Posted April 1, 2010 Adam, If you know you have a good key and can't get into the trunk, try GENTLY moving the key up and down, in and out, in very, very small incriments while you try to turn the lock. It sounds like you have a worn notch on the key, or a piece of debris has gotten into the lock. Moving it around while trying to get it to open may be your best bet without damaging the lock. Also, call your locksmith and see if he thinks he can get it to open. Joe Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted April 2, 2010 Share Posted April 2, 2010 I think I'll go try that right now, actually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhclark Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 23 hours ago....I wonder if Adam's still wiggling that key?Either that or it worked and he's still unloading his treasure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Adam4t Posted April 3, 2010 Share Posted April 3, 2010 Haha I wish I got it opened. I tried wiggling it, wouldn't budge. I guess I'll HAVE to call a locksmith... :[.. and I wish there was a treasure under there, from what I remember it's a spare tire and enough rust to... well, it's all rusted. That's it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now