Jump to content

My Reatta almost stranded us, would not start...


Reattatude

Recommended Posts

Okay yesterday we took a little ride to French Lick, IN and after deciding to take a jaunt across the countryside wound up in Jasper (where they make the transmissions, right?

Anyway, car had been running okay until we left a store and upon starting it up it idled very rough and backing out there was hardly any power at all, I didnt get out of the parking lot before it quit and then just wouldnt start at all. Pushed it into a parking spot with help from a couple of nice people.

At this point I must confess this is not the first time it has acted up like this but this was the first time it would not start at all.

This bad idle/ loss of power only happens when the car has been out on the road a while, when its warmed up. In the morning on acold start there is no problem so I am thinking this may be heat-related.

Back to the parking lot, after about an hour sitting in a coffee shop I went out and it started up and we went back to French Lick, stopped at the winery, (killed the engine) it started up fine, we left there and I didnt kill the engine until we got home.

What does this sound like to you? I have been driving the Reatta a lot this winter, because it gets warm inside really fast!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest jcc3inc

Reattatude,

Your "sad" story reminds me of my experience with my '91. I went to the post ofc, and went in; when I came back, it ran VERY poorly. Called my wife to come get me. When she got there, I tried again and the car ran well all the way home. Just FYI, our '97 LeSabre had a similar problem and it was resolved by replacing the crank position sensor. So I did that on the '91 and it was fixed!

It seems these devices quit when they get hot, and resume operation after they cool.

Regards,

Jack C.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

replacing the crank position sensor. So I did that on the '91 and it was fixed! It seems these devices quit when they get hot, and resume operation after they cool.

Regards,

Jack C.

Crank Sensor? Is that a DIY'fer? Or better to take it in to my local greasemonkey? Sounds like you and I had the the same problem.

As for the Codes, gotta go look that up in the SM - and its COLD and SNOWING outside so... I guess it can wait until tomorrow.

Thanks all. I will update when I know exactly what the problem is.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Bobby Valines

Last summer my car would not start sometimes and sometimes it would after it got hot. After I changed the coil, icm, ox sensor, crank sensor, fuel pressure regulator with no change. I bought a fuel pressure gage at harbor freight for $10.00 and found the pressure was low. Had a new fuel pump put in and has run great ever sence. If I would have had that $10.00 tool I could have save a lot of time and money. Hope this helps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest jcc3inc

Reattadude,

I see your picture is of a '91, as mine is also. I had to remove the rt front wheel and some other stuff including fan belt. To remove the damper/pulley assembly I needed a wheel puller. Made one out of some 1/4 alum plate I had, put (3) holes in it, got some bolts and pulled it off. It was on fairly snug. Did not slide off easily.

On this model, the sensor is held in position by an adjustable clamping mechanism. On my first try I wrecked the pickup because I had accidentally moved the pickup after positioning it. It still ran, but made a grinding sound!!!!. Replaced the pickup and tightened the pickup clamp BEFORE starting it again, and now it runs well.

Probably about a 1 1/2 hour job if you had a puller to start.

Regards,

Jack C.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

MANY THanks Jack,

Sounds like I may be printing this post and handing it to my mechanic down the road. Even if its not that sensor its probably due for a change anyway.

Then will look at the fuel pump is necessary. My car is stuck in the garage today anyhow. Until I finish shoveling all the snowdrifts blocking it.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
Guest Bobby Valines

These fuel pumps seem to run weak when they get old they don't seem to die. Anyone with a older fuel pump should check it to insure proper performance.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Am doing quite a few fuwl pumps these days. Seems to be the time. Fortunately the same pump has multiple applications around here. 88 & Fiero uses an AC EP-240, other Reatta and TranSport use an EP-378 .

I only use AC fuel pumps.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason I ask this, I have to replace the rotten gas tank in a '93 Riv (similar to Reatta) with a nice tank from a Eldorado of the same period . The Riv pressure (engine off) at the fuel rail was 42#. The Eldo, which I jerry-rigged up a pressure gauge with the tank on the ground and a battery to the pins on the connector, read 60#.

A. I don't trust the gauge I used for the Eldo test (different from the Riv test)

B) If that gauge IS correct, will the regularor drop it to 42, and/or the computor reduce the injector pulse width to run stoch?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Mc_Reatta

Properly working fuel pressure regulator will drop pressure to 40 to 47 psi in engine off condition, 31 - 42 at idle.

Pump is supposed to be able to deliver 75 psi or better if you block the return line.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...