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Help needed for shifter cable 85 Riviera


Guest Riv

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I desperately need a shifter cable for my 85 Riv, column shift, 305 ci 5 litre, 0d trani new or used. It's seized and can't be freed without damage.

Any new or used cable would be fine!

Need some help guys - nothing available up in the great "White North".

Edited by Riv (see edit history)
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This is separate from the speedo. It is attached by a 2 ft. cable from the column shifter directly to the transmission shifter lever. We have taken it out and tried to free it. Apparently, it melts the casing to the metal cable if there is a bad electrical ground. I definitely need a new cable assembly for the shifter.

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I might be able to get it for you, but I need a picture of what it looks like and an idea of how to remove it and then of course a value for what it might be worth to you.

There is a pretty sizable u-pick yard near me with several Rivs of your vintage in it. Will it be the same '79 to '85?

The reason I ask for the above is I do not own a Riv. so I need your help...

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I am glad to help as long as I get good info. Also helping you guys helps me with what I call a "group buy." For example when I got those parts for Ed, I grouped a power antenna in with it.

And as my daughter needs two doors for her car[she was backed into, insurance claim] I will be buying some other things and grouping them into the pile. They always see and charge for the big things, little things I pretty much get for free...

So the stuff I buy for you means my stuff is little or no cost and the profit goes into labor charges on my car for repairs on that which I cannot do.

I also am in sales, and need an outlet. Some guys go fishing, golfing, or hunting. I go junking.

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)
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I went to the u-pick yard yesterday for the doors. There won't be any more runs this week as the weather is definatly going to be cold. High of 15 today and tomorrow,but with the wind chill it will be about 10 below.

No response from Riv yet so nothing to worry about...

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Still no reply.

Reminds me of a guy that wanted a red horn pad out of a '79 - '84 Riv. I found it, pulled it and waited and waited...

He never followed thru.

Not much invested but still.

Now I look at who is asking, how many posts and any affiliations. I think you know why...

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Hey Dave,

Sometime when you're out looking for parts, see if you can find me the shroud off the back of a T-type wheel. I bought a really nice wheel off ebay, but the picture didn't show the back of the wheel. The shroud that goes from the wheel itself to the steering column on the one I bought is more square than round and I need a round one. If you find one, and the horn button is good, I'd take that too. Color doesn't matter, I can fix that. For some reason, my horn button has failed and the horn honks everytime I turn the wheel. (The wires to the horns are pulled now.) I can attach a picture if it would help.

Thanks,

Ed

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Jayson, I'm thinking the foam that's inside the horn button and used as the "return spring" has deteriorated. Can it be replaced?

Ed

Sure can just get handy at your local hardware store using AC filters/foam type products. Everytime the temp here got below 50 my horn would go off untill I disconnected the battery. Replacing the foam fixed it!

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Jayson,

Have you tried some fiberglass and bondo on that cracked "shroud/collar/what ever you call it" to try and repair it?

Thanks for confirming what I suspected. I'll check out ACE hardware on the way home tonight. Did you cut the new foam back to OE dimensions or just put some pieces in strategic places. Was the original glued in? If so, on both sides? Again if so, what kind of glue did you use that didn't dissolve the foam? Heaven forbid that I try anything on my own when all answers are instantaneous now:eek: I also realize now that my visor repair doesn't work. Have you found a good fix yet?

Ed

Edited by RivNut
spell checked (see edit history)
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Ed- The foam was like a permant AC filter for a larger unit. Just use whatever glue you have around the house. Once you cut it to fit you can just lay it in between pieces. Makes no difference as long as you have foam in there that will push the contacts apart. The foam on mine originally was so deteriorated it was like just dust.

No my sunvisors (vanity mirrors) are not fixed. That was in the middle of the back problems and got buried under stuff in the garage but soon.... with new interiors coming this summer! But that doesn't mean I'll be able to figure out a fix, as I've not been able to for now, but I have ideas! :D But I will go out on a limb and say one thing about sunvisors and other hard to fix stuff like this on our cars. If owners don't make an effort to call around and at least ASK if there is a fix, replacement or kit to fix them then just like with level compressors, our cars will be left behind without any fix while most other cars will have aftermarket replacements or someone who's rebuilding them! Squeeky wheel gets the grease. I hope this thread takes off in a good discussion to maybe all bang our heads together for a fix or maybe start a new thread on it.

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Jayson,

I've got one more idea about coming up with a fix for the sunvisors that builds on what I have done already. I'll give you a call later this evening and tell you about it. I think some input from you would give me a clue as to which of two paths to follow.

Ed

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Hmmm, I'm still here wondering how to remove the colllar and also what car and year would still be a T- type wheel that you want. Also how to R & R the collar would be nice.

Also what is the issue with the visors? There are some out in the yard and I could look for a good one.

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Dave you can find the sport steering wheel shroud Ed wants on any Buick from 81 on into around 87 time frame. They will look just like the one I pictured but the center embalem and color maybe different. To take it off only the 3 and 9 o'clock screws come off to take the horn button off, that's the only trick to these as most people tried to unscrew the others and broke the faux ones off. Or they were over tightened then when back on and cracked the trim ring! After that you have to have a steering wheel puller. That part is pretty generic. (Ed this is right? It's been a while since I've taken one off)

The sunvisors for all Rivieras/Toronados/Eldorados and many other big Buicks with the lighted vanity mirrors won't stay up. There is a small black plastic sleeve that goes around a groove on the rod to keep the tension. The plasic sleeve gets loose or cracks and then your driving around with your sunvisors down all the time or hit a bump and here they come. I've taken a few apart before. I'll post picts for everyone to look at.

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post-48336-143138167477_thumb.jpg

post-48336-143138167481_thumb.jpg

Edited by sosuzguy (see edit history)
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Dave,

Here are some photos of the wheel I have and the collar that's currently on it. There are two pictures of the collar, the picture where the collar appears to be round is the side that butts up against the wheel. The pictures where the collar appears to be square is where it butts up to the steering column. I need a collar that's round on both ends. The other pictures show the whole wheel, the horn button removed with the 3:00 and 9:00 allen screws (3/16") removed, the back of the wheel with the collar in place; held on by three 7mm hex head screws. Then a picture of the wheel without the collar or the horn button.

I've found that you can remove a steering wheel without a wheel puller if you'll back the big nut off the shaft until the threads on the shaft are just below the suface of the nut. Get your knees behind the wheel, and put pressure on the back of the wheel. SMACK the nut with a large hammer and the wheel should pop off the tapered splines. It won't wind up in your teeth because the nut on the shaft will stop it. Then you can remove the nut and the wheel will slide the rest of the way off. All of the horn wires are internal so you don't need to unhook anything between the wheel and the column. The horn wire is held in place with a small plastic sleeve that has a couple of notches on it. If you press slightly and twist it counter clockwise, the sleeve will come out of the wheel.

Let me know what you find.

Ed

Edited by RivNut
correct size of allen wrench (see edit history)
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Why don't you guys figure out what cars that use that same shaft and replace either that or the whole unit? Here in Wi. most visors work good.

We got 2" snow yesterday so it will be a couple of days before I get out there.

Snow has to melt off the windshields...

BTW What are you paying for this service call?

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Dave,

The reason the visors fail is because a small pressed fit plastic bushing splits and no longer has a grip on the rod. Time and temperatur changes are what cause the bushing to split. You can see a split bushing in one of Jayson's pictures. I got a set of visors out of a Eldorado a couple of years ago. They were both down on the car in the yard and I didn't think anything about that until I got them home, wired them, installed them, and watched them sag the minute I turned loose of them.

We've scoured the internet looking for "fixes" and have found a couple. I tried one thinking I'd solved the problem. In the shop, I could hold the visor mount in my hand and put weight on the visor. As soon as I got it out in the warm air, it sagged. Right now with the temperature right around 30* the visors stay up; when the heater warms the interior, the visor sags. I know that I'm close, I just have some tweaking to do but I might as well wait until it's much warmer so I can tweak it when the temp. is hot enough to have immediate results.

If anyone else out there has had similar problems with other makes or models, please let us know what you did to resolve your problems.

Thanks,

PS Did my pictures help clarify how the steering wheel is put together?

Ed

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Sorry Ed no T type cars out there. as a matter of fact very few cars out there between '81 - '87.

I am interested in helping with visors though. I don't think that we use visors too much here in Wi. Why don't you tell me what color you want and I will send you them [at a cost] for you to see for yourself?

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Dave,

Different examples of what we refer to as the "T type" wheel were found on a lot of different models of Buicks. Skyhawks, Skylarks, Regals, LeSabres, Rivieras, etc. Some are leather, some are vinyl, elusive ones are walnut and leather, but most have brushed steel spokes and leather wrapped rims. The leather doesn't wrap up the spokes on some as far as it does on others. I've had two that were the T-type style, but were all leather, no exposed metal on the spokes. However, they all come off the same way. The all leather one had a snap on horn button though.

Whenever you're out, just keep an eye peeled for them. If they're complete, you can most often find a buyer for them. Parts are valuable too. Of the three that I have now, all three have a Buick emblem on the wheel, and I need Riviera emblems.

John,

It will probably be some time (weather) until I start messing with the visors again. Not because it's too cold to work on them; but when it's cold, they have a tendency to stay put. I need some warm weather to see if the fixes will work.

Ed

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  • 1 month later...

Dave have you seen any 79-85's with the light colored tan interior? It's either called saddlestone or sandstone? I am looking for a front drivers seat and inside door panels that are in better shape than the dirty and tore up ones in this car. Maybe a steering wheel that isn't cracked all over? Thanks

85 Riv Linda 022710 110 pictures from cars photos on webshots

85 Riv Linda 022710 114 pictures from cars photos on webshots

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Jason,I am looking at your car being black in color. Why don't you drive it up here and swap out the whole interior to the red leather? I'll bet you can get it for $300 or so.

That would be front back seats, dash, door panels, headiner, steering wheel everything. It even has working visors! I'll even help pull it. I've done it before for a guy that Ed gave my name to...

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