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RivNut

WTB - door molding for '79

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I'm looking for the stainless moldings that go on the top of the door for a '79 Riviera. These are the ones that hold the window sweep molding in place. They have to be from a '79; '80 - '85 won't do. The '79 moldings run the full length of the door whereas the others include the mirror as part of this molding. I want to put Regal style sport mirrors on my '85 and need these moldings to take place of the intergal mirrors on the '85.

Thanks

Ed

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Ed,

I think there is a 1979 out in the u-pick yard I use. How would I remove them and what is it worth to you?

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Dave,

How is it I can always count on you? To remove them, you would remove the upper and lower interior door panel, then you would need loosen the bottom stop for the window and move the window down to expose a bunch of small phillips head screws on the inside of the outer door skin. I've been able to move electric windows, etc. by taking the 18V battery from my cordless drill to the yard with me.

If the weather where you are is like it is where I am, this can wait awhile. I bought a pair of moldings off of a Toronado in a salvage yard here in the KC area and paid the guy $60.00 for them. They looked right on the car, but when I got them home, they had the wrong contour. I have new rubber sweep seals so the ones on the parts car aren't important.

If it is a '79, and the mirrors are in good shape, I'd take them as well if they have remote manual adjusters. If they're power mirrors, I can't use them.

Ed

Edited by RivNut
clarification (see edit history)

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Ed, I need a bit of an education. What do you use the drill for? Is it just to remove the little screws you referred to, or is it for something else?

Please enlighten me.

I know aproximatly where your vintage cars are, but we need some warmer, sunnier days to melt some of the snow off the cars for quick I.D.

I will get back to you on this.

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Dave,

I just take the battery, not the drill. An 18V lithium battery has enough power to operate most power accessories to make sure they work, or move seats and windows to access mounting screws, bolts, etc. Much easier than trying to transport a 12V car battery.

No really big hurry on the moldings. If possible, I'd like to have them by mid-April. That would give me time to get them on for the summer. Just keep me in mind and keep me posted. Was the $$ amount okay with you?

Thanks,

Ed

Edited by RivNut
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I just take out a portable power station, although the problem here may be no keys. I will get out there soon as the temp is to get to the mid 30's by the middle of the week.

$60.00 seems fair, hopefuly I can get them cheap enough to include the mirrors as well [if they are both manual and nice enough].

I will keep you posted...

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Ed, remember the interior I got for Larry? That was a '79 if I remember correctly. I think that car even had keys. How do I read the vin code to know for sure?

BTW, Did he ever say he liked the interior he got?

Sorry went back and looked at the post from October... it was an '82

Edited by DAVES89 (see edit history)

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Dave.

I guess that Larry got what he wanted; I've dropped off his radar and haven't heard from him.

I'm sending you a link to a VIN decoding site. When you open it, click on General Motors. On this page, the first example is the one for a 74- 80, the second one is for 81 - 84, and the 3rd one is for 85 -86.

Here's the link for decoding the whole enchilada:

http://www.mitchellsupport.com/ondemand5/VIN/VIN.pdf

There's one other thing you can do that will give you an accruate year model date for any car. The picture I sent isn't clear (I can't get the light to reflect right.) BUt on every tail light there is a "GUIDE" number. The guide number is the last two numbers in the model year. The picture I'm sending is from an '84 Riv tail light and you can barely make out the 84 on it but knowing that it's there you can see it.

THere's also a laminated sticker on the drivers door that will tell the build date. Late 78 or 79 would mean that the car is if fact a '79. However, these can peel of and it might not be there.

I've looked at a couple of pictures of other '79s and realize that unless the 79 in the salvage yard is an S-Type, the mirrors will be wrong for what I want. In other words, I don't need the mirrors. If it is an S-type, I want the mirrors and the amber turn signal lenses on the front if they're good.

I hope this works for you. I can finally see some concrete on my driveway.

Thanks again,

Ed

Edited by RivNut
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Ed those GUIDE numbers will only show "79" for 79 to 83 cars and "84" for 84/85 cars. This denotes the first year of those. The Guide numbers never changed for the numbers inbetween. From what I know the 79 Riviera mirrors should all be the same. All 79's had the round mirrors - is that wrong?

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Hey, Dave. If the '79 Riv in question is at Gibson's....it is NOT an "S" type. You clued me into that Riv last year, and I pulling the intake and carb. Take care...and enjoy the warm-up into the 30's. Best, John in Plover.

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Jayson,

Three weeks ago, I figured you'd come up with the answer. :) Thanks for not letting me down. It's sometimes Hinky how the answers show up when and where you'd least expect them.

I'll have to look at the tail lights on my 85 Riv to confirm that. I'll also check the lights on my 98 Cherokee - same lights 93 - 98, and the '97 XJi - same lights 96 - 99. When the snow is no longer piled up above the heigth of the tail lights, I'll check it out.

From what I've been able to gather, the 79 S-type had body colored "sport" mirrors, and the Luxury Riv had chrome mirrors that were sort of rectangular with rounded corners. Look at the "Evolution" aritcle on the ROA site for the '79. The pictures show chrome mirrors on the featured car, but the reprint of the S-Type flyer states it has "Streamlined sport mirrors.

Ed

Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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John, I was thinking that was the "79. It is a pretty clean car.

Ed, I am going with the last statement from you that you do NOT want the mirrors. Is that correct?

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Dave,

That is correct; "I do not want the mirrors."

Ed

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Ed, The weather was nice out here today so I went out to Gibson's and pulled the pieces you wanted. I checked the vin and the 6 th digit was a 9 which also is the car Johnny Jolly remembered as a '79.This car is starting to get picked over, as a matter of fact the igniition key was gone as well as both window switches. I took the int. door panels off as you suggested and removed all the bolts holding the window mechanism in place. I then toggled the windows around so I could get at the screws. I did break the drivers window [boy do they blow up when they break!].

Please mail me a check for $60.00 to;

Dave Lemke

240 Edgewater Drive

Menasha,Wi. 54952

Thanks,

Dave

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The mail has been picked up for today; I'll get a check out tomorrow. You've shipped to me before, but if you didn't save the address, it's:

Ed Raner

5013 Woodstock St.

Shawnee, KS 66218

Yes, I have "blown up" those window before; when they go, they really go.

Thanks so much for your extra effort.

Ed

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Ed package went today.

I have been requested to give a tutorial on the removal of the interior door panel.

I will do my best here/now. If anyone has a better way feel free to chime in.

The power door lock panel has a small screwdriver slot at the end towards the front of the car. Push in to release the spring tab. This frees up the window control panel. Unsnap the wire leads and set control aside. There are six phillips screws holding hplding the lower panel on. One on either end ofthe lower panel on the top side and two in the carpet lowe side. There are also the last two screws in the cavity of the window switch control. Now with a small pry bar feel around for the plastic panel fasteners, prying them off as you go around. Once you get them off the panel should be free. You will also have to unsnap the lower door light at this time.

The upper door is held in place by one screw behind the door open lever. There are also two long sheet metal screws under the trim piece that you would grab to close the door. There are two screws under each trim piece. I do not know how to remove the trim piece as they were off the car when I got to it.

I believe that is it for screws. Once again you go around with your little pry bar to remove the plastic panel fasteners. When you feel the door is free, you lift the door straight up to free it from the window channel area and you should be done.

Hope this helps, any others who want to chime in are welcome...

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Great information on the 1979-85 Riviera upper and lower door panel removal, Dave. Thank you for taking the time to post for all to use. Best, John in Wisconsin

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Dave,

The check went out today as well.

Your tutorial has it covered. The only thing that might make a difference is the remote control for the mirror. Electric mirrors you can unplug, but if the Riv was not delivered with the electric mirror option, you'll have to figure out how to release the cable remote on the standard mirrors. I've not done in on a Riv, but other GM products require that you use a small allen wrench to remove the adjuster sleeve from the escutheon (sp?.)

Thanks again,

Ed

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Ed that is correct on the allen wrench for manual mirrors. BTW that car had the rectangular manual mirrors.

Also your tracking #784282510107201

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Dave,

The moldings arrived today and they look great. Thanks again for your time and trouble.

For anyone else reading this - Dave has responded to my "want to buy" on previous occassions and he's never let me down. He won't sell you junky parts, shipment is quick, and he takes much care in his packaging. Always fair prices. Highly recommended

Ed

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