v-12 oil seal

[Guest B1rdman]

can anyone tell me how to replace the rear engine oil seal on a 1947 v-12 lincoln.

do i have to pull tranny off, the engine ???

thanks

gene

[peecher]

The V12's use what is called a "slinger seal", there is no "contact" to the crankshaft. Excess oil leakage at this point is usually due to worn rear main bearings. It is also possible that the drain tube on the rear main cap could be clogged up not allowing the the slinger seal to drain.

The 2 halves of the slinger seal are pressed into the cylinder block and the rear main bearing cap. The "slinger" on the crankshaft rides in the center groove of the seal with no contact.

Any repair in this area would require removing the oil pan and bearing cap, probably a lot easier with the engine out of the car.

[Guest B1rdman]

thanks i learned some thing, may keep pouring oil to it.

or i may try and fix.

again thanks

gene

[Guest B1rdman]

ps i have great oil pressure, so my main must not be worn to bad/

g

[peecher]

Gene, it's possible that your engine may have been retro-fitted to a "rope" seal? if this is the case you might be able to replace it but you would still have to remove the rear bearing cap.

[Mssr. Bwatoe]

Pull the pan..carefully bring it down and inspect the rear gasket seal...there is a large margin for error....the main gaskets are wide and flat..the front is a rope..the main bearing is a slinger..chk what he said ..then look carefully at the metal edge ...the back of the pan..this is the hardest part to seal..pan bent ..even a tad will make big mess..look the same as rear main...the updated rope seal is typical oil soaked rope, tucked around rear main...oem style is a "splash" barrier only...

[peecher]

Jeff's right. If the pan was either bent ( at the rear) or the pan did not make good contact with the cork seal over the rear main you could have a real gusher. the cork seal itself may be bad or out of place. What is the history on this? Has the pan been removed/ replaced prior to this leak?

[Guest B1rdman]

pan has not been replaced or removed, unless it was by the previous owners.

been thinking pan bolts might need a little tightning.

to remove pan what has to be done on that ??

many thanks

for the replys

gene

[peecher]

Basically to remove the oil pan you will need to disconnect the drag link from the pitman arm, remove the starter and cross over exhaust pipe. The 2 side mud pans might also be in the way. Disconnect the ball socket at the rear of the front axle wishbone and block /prop/ it down to allow room for the pan to be removed. Lift up and secure the oil level float gauge on the intake manifold. Remove the bolts from the pan including the (4)lower 3/8"bolts that bolt thru the clutch housing into the rear of the pan. Lower the pan carefully avoiding interference with the oil float. There is one pan bolt at the right rear which screws in from the top edge of the bell housing...all the other pan bolts screw in from the bottom. I have found that a transmission jack is very helpful when installing the pan as you can lift the pan evenly and align it as you go. The clutch housing on the transmission will be the fore and aft guide as the back edge of the pan bolts direct to it. When installing the pan, lower the oil level float into it's well when the pan is about an inch away from the the crankcase rail. Lots of fun.

[Guest V12Bill]

It also helps to have the #1 & #2 pistons as close to top as possible to avoid interference with pan and first rod journal on crankshaft.