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kdml

Throttle Linkage Picture Request

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When I picked up my '65 Riviera the original carb and linkage was in a box. I think I have it all back together except for one part. Can somone post a picture of what attaches the horizontal throttle rod to the vertcal linkage? I have attached a picture with the area circled I am talking about (please ignore the screw - I just wanted to hear it run)

If it makes a difference it is a 401 running a Rochester 4GC.

I also attached another pic showing all of the linkage - anything else missing?

Thanks

Doug

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the bended metallic tube on the middle right side of the first picture should run over the linkage ... not under it. the "bump" was meant for clearance of the throttle linkage. i did not see any missing item ... but i must note that i am in the office right now and can't be 100% sure.

regards,

dirk.

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Thanks for the responses

I will move the tube and look for a bracket for the spring on the firewall.

My big issue is where the 2 larger linkage parts meet (second picture circled area). I need to know what connects the 2 pieces. The screw I put there is only temporary. I am picturing some sort of pin with bushings on either side to keep the linkage from flopping around. Anyone have any ideas?

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Here's a picture of a friend of mine's '64. I took these pictures in order to put my '64 back to stock and get rid of the Edelbrock carb that was on it.

The connector of which you're speaking appears to be a pin with a hairpin clip going through a hole on one end. You can also see how the spring is mounted.

Ed

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Thanks Ed

That gives me a good shot at what I need to change. I can't make out whether there are any bushings in between the 2 sections of linkage. I assume there needs to be something to stabilize the throttle linkage inside the linkage coming off the firewall. I have attached a picture of where I am talking about. Anyone have a picture at this angle?

Thanks Doug

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Because of the way the car is parked in the garage, and the junk that's piled up next to it, I can't get the linkage on my '64 apart to take a picture for you, BUT the hood is open and I can see down between the hood and the cowl and I can at least tell you what I see.

I can see what looks like a rubber o-ring on each side of the carb linkage rod as it sits inside the pedal linkage braclet(where you have a bolt.) I would suspect that it's one piece and perhaps there's a bronze or steel bushing in there as well. If you cant get someone else to confirm or deny this, I can probably get to it this weekend and let you know for sure.

Ed

Edited by RivNut
spelling (see edit history)

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Thanks Ed

I think I am getting a mental picture. A clevis pin with a spring clip and 2 rubber bushings. If you can get a picture that would be awesome

Thanks again

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I've got one question and one comment that may shed some light on the subject.

Question - Are the clevis holes in the pedal linkage rod and the carb linkage rod the same size? If not, then the grommet/bushing are probably one piece. If so, then the rubber is probably just an insulator or something to make things snug so they won't rattle.

Comment - Your linkage is on a '65 and the transmission is the ST400 with the switch pitch feature. My '64 has the ST 400 but in '64 it didn't have the switch pitch feature. It looks like the micro-switch for the switch pitch converter is part of the pedal linkage assembly right at the pivot. If so, the pin et al from a '64 might not be exactly the same.

I'll try to get a picture taken and mailed sometime in the next few days.

Ed

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pls. see attached a section of the engine compartment of my '65 rivi. red circled are the spring, the "over-the-linkage" bend and the connecting bolt (which has shims). on the other issues i can't help, sorry.

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Here are some pictures of my throttle linkage - DISASSEMBLED!!!

I should have taken some measurements before I put it back together. I'm NOT taking it apart again. Too many thumbs today.:o Dropped a washer three times (there are only two of them,) one stayed on the bell housing, two hit the floor. The spring also hit the floor when I undid it realizing that trying to put the clevis back into the holes with pressure on the spring wasn't practical. Twice as much time was spent looking for the parts as it took to take it apart and put it back together. :D

Anyway, here's what a '64 had from the factory.

1 rubber grommet that fits inside the hole on the pedal linkage

2 shoulder washers that go on each side of the grommet

1 clevis pin

1 hair-pin clip

Sorry about the focus of the pictures of the linkage. I was just holding the camera and pointing and praying. But you'll get the idea that the one hole is much larger than the other.

Let us know if the '65 linkage is similar.

Ed

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Thanks Ed - sorry to ask you to go through so much trouble

After looking at your pictures I was able to sort through some boxes the prior owner gave me and found most of what I need.

Now I have 2 throttle linkages and the appropriate plastic inserts for each and a rubber grommet.

The plastic inserts on the throttle linkage which straddles the pedal linkage are too small for the grommet and the grommet is not wide enough to support the width or the linkage. So, I am guessing this is not the correct grommet for this setup. If you compare my pictures to Ed's you can see his linkage bends back in where it attaches where mine does not. In addition, the holes in his appear larger than mine.

The throttle linkage which attaches with a 90 degree bend appears to fit the rubber grommet best. I have never seen linkage like this on all of the pictures I have seen or in the service manual. I think this will work best for the parts I have. I am concerned with its ability to engage the micro switch for the transmission. I assume the linkage needs to hit the switch as the throttle opens - correct?

Muscelecarfan65 - if you can get a picture of where your linkage comes together that might help clear up my concerns for the micro switch. I can't make it out in the pictures you posted as the wire loom is in the way

Thanks again everyone

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Hi there, this rubber gommet and plastic bushing has a function other than just lookin' pretty! it has about 1/8th play in it that is needed to work the microswitch for the st400 on the '65 riv. So when the throttle is closed, no pressure on the accelerater, the microswitch clicks and the circuit for hi stall is active. A wee bit of pressure, there is like 1/8th inch movement of the bottom part of the linkage, and the microswitch clicks it off. On my cars I test the microswitch just but moving the linkage the amount allowed by the play in the grommet. :eek:

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Doug,

It was no trouble, I was just commenting on my clumsiness this morning.:)

Buick had two uses for the switch pitch. 1) To put the torque converter in a high stall position when engaging passing gear - that's accomplised with the rod that goes from the carb to the switch fastened to the intake manifold. The second function 2) is to put the converter in high stall at idle so the torque of the engine won't cause the car to creep at a stop light. (Little old ladies didn't like the pedal pressure it took to keep the car still at idle.) The microswitch on the pedal linkage is what controls this function. It should be adjusted so that when some pressure is put on the accelerator pedal, the micro switch is disengaged and the converter goes into low stall. I think that as long as it is adjusted properly, you shouldn't need any play in the linkage.

I like the looks of the linkage with the "hook" on the end. It looks like it would clear the micro switch, and with the nylong bushings, you'd alleviate any wear because of steel to steel rubbing.

I have chassis manuals for 63, 64, and 66 - and at one time or another at least one car to go with each manual. However, I've not had a '65 nor do I have a '65 manual. For some reason to me, that microswitch on the pedal linkage doesn't look right. I'm hoping that someone with a '65 (not an LX engine) can supply you with some good pictures.

Ed

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Thanks for the additional info

I do have a '65 service manual and I have been reading about the micro switch to see how it should be adjusted. Right now it won't touch any of the linkage setups I have. If I understand it correctly the switch is pressed (engaged) when at idle. I will loosen the screws and try to adjust.

When looking at the pictures in the service manual the switch is on the outside of the linkage in the fuel section and on the inside of the linakge in the transmission section. Not sure it matters as I think I can adjust it to engage on either side.

Thanks again

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If the switch pitch is working correctly you should be able to hear it engage/disengage when 12 volts is applied to the terminal on the sender on the driver's side of the transmission. The horizontal spade (the top of the T) is the spade for the switch pitch. The power comes from a wire that gets it's 12V from the wiper fuse.

Ed

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Thanks Ed

I will run a few tests when I get a chance. Winter is coming to VT so the car won't be going anywhere too soon. In addition, this spring I plan on fully restoring the car as it is currently a project car

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Here's a picture of a friend of mine's '64. I took these pictures in order to put my '64 back to stock and get rid of the Edelbrock carb that was on it.

The connector of which you're speaking appears to be a pin with a hairpin clip going through a hole on one end. You can also see how the spring is mounted.

Ed

Ed you still have these pics? Putting 4gc back on and something aint right with the linkages

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Sorry, I don't. Those pictures were on an old computer and when I transferred photos to my new computer; some didn't make it. Can you take pictures of what you have and post them? Perhaps your parts can be sorted out and we can tell you how they fit together.

Ed

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I did find one spring that I forgot to put on the throttle base. I need to take it all off to get it on. DAMN. I sprayed silicon lub on gaskets so hopefully I can reuse them since they are brand new.

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I remembered that some of my photos are on an external hard drive. Here are some pictures that hopefully will help you. First thing I noticed in your pictures is that your accelerator pump linkage isn't connected. Other than that, these pictures are for an AFB equipped car, but that shouldn't make any difference. I've switched AFB's for 4GC's without changing anything but the carbs.

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The small spring that sits next to the dash pot is not OE and is not necessary. It's now gone. I took the pictures before I realized it was there or I would have removed it. The throttle return spring in picture #6 is correct; it connects to the firewall.

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Edited by RivNut (see edit history)

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