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1930 Chrysler questions


Saulius

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I have recently purchased a 1930 Chrysler ‘’66’’ which I want to begin restoring. The car seems to be the Roadster body style with an original 6 cyl. engine.<O:p</O:p

Some parts are missing such as the winged radiator cap, wooden frame and left joints for convertible top,center bumper clamp, 18 wire wheels, under radiator apron (between springers).<O:p</O:p

I have a few questions:<O:p</O:p

1, what's been done? (photo),in addition to the control cable.<O:p</O:p

2, Dashboard trim, which in some areas remained undamaged finish (see photo) can you know whether you have any pictures as it was.Paint on a paper (see photo), or may be so?

3, What strength should be electrical systemfuse?<O:p</O:p

<O:p</O:p

Sorry for bad English<O:p</O:p

Thanks

<O:p</O:p

<O:p</O:p

Saulius<O:p</O:p

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I don't know the Chrysler specific answers to your questions but I can offer an opinion based on an equivalent year Plymouth:

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The larger hole appears to be for an aftermarket exhaust type heater.

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The original coil mounted through the firewall. Depending on year, there was a key switch on the back of the coil or an armored wire going to a dash mounted switch. Since you coil is not on the dash, I'd assume the latter. It looks like someone has added a later coil.

I almost thought that the aftermarket coil was bolted onto the old coil mounting screw then I remembered that the original coil has three mounting screws and they go into nuts welded to the inside of the firewall. So the thing the newer coil is mounted onto is the inside of the item in the other picture. I still think that is the remains of an aftermarket heater.

The equivalent Plymouths of that era would have one fuse for the whole system, mounted on the back of the ammeter, and rated at 20 amps.

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Hi all

<O:p</O:p

<O:p</O:p

Thanks for the response.<O:p</O:p

Will be better if I remove the heater, as You think?<O:p</O:p

So this is one fuse for the whole system, thank yuo very much helped me.

<O:p</O:p

<O:p</O:p

Saulius<O:p</O:p

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I agree with ply33 that your hole by the manifold is a exhaust type heater hole.

I don't think a 30 Chrysler product would have the coil mounted through the firewall. I had several 1929 DeSotos made from late 28 to late 29. The early ones had the coil in the firewall and the distributor and coil was Delco. The later 29's had a coil mounted on the back of the ignition switch, and was made by NorthEast. If that coil went bad, most people would mount a normal coil on the firewall just like your car.

If it had a coil through the firewall, there would be a embossed hole with 3 threaded mounting nuts, and would be located higher on the firewall, and more towards the center.

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f&j you could be right, viewed from the inside there is no place for the switch mechanism.

What intrigues me is the inside is sealed off, so where does the heat get in ??

Hchris, I think the big hole is a heater also, aftermarket. My '29 DB DA has a similar manifold heater. If you follow the path of the armored cable in the "hole" pic then look at the coil pic, I think it shows the coil is inside the car. Looks like the top of the floormat at the bottom. You are looking at the inside of the firewall, and the heater hole would be off screen.

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I'm trying to remember details from my 1930 De Soto Eight.... didn't Chrysler products of that era have the ignition switch mounted in the base of the coil, and attached to the dash so that the lock-cylinder & bezel fit through an opening in the dash ?

This is what they look like...some Chryslers have a round face, some Plymouths have an oval-like face. The one shown is 1931 Dodge. They attach to the back of the instrument panel.

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Hi all

<O:p</O:p

<O:p</O:p

Indeed, the switch and the lock has been changed.<O:p</O:p

Remove the heating tube, the inside was closed spice tins, sorry for taking the time.

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And as the exterior design panel? Maybe had something to see, as was the original.

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<O:p</O:p

Saulius.<O:p</O:p

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...
  • 9 months later...

Hi all<O:p</O:p

Carburetor repair - BB1D Carter, and can not be removed - Pump piston, rod plate and rod assembly. What can I use the force?

Another question, is what is shown connecting to the outlet?

Thanks in advance for your answers.

<O:p</O:p

Saulius

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  • 2 weeks later...
Saulius, I'm certainly no expert, but I believe that is just a drain hole and should not need anything hooked up to it. Maybe in some applications they had a drain line attached to it.

Dale

Correct...it is a drain hole for the excess fuel.

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  • 5 years later...

Hello,

I myself have made the roof frame left bracket (right original), and wooden frames that are not finished.

I want to ask about the roadster roof frame. What should the distance from the window frame, and at what angle should be on the rear frame = 90° or >90° or <90°.

 

With best regards

Saulius

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