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CV Half Shaft Install 3.8L FWD


Guest crazytrain2

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Guest crazytrain2

Forgive the intrusion but need some help on an issue I've run into while replacing passenger side CV Half Shaft on a 89 Buick 3.8L.

I noticed during the installation that the inner boot had collapsed. I pulled the shaft out of the hub and turned it (with car in neutral) while pushing firmly towards the transaxle. Have it all put back together now but the boot is still in a collapsed state. I would think that the knuckle wouldn't have seated on the ball joint bolt if the shafts inner joint had separated, but thought I would run it past you all for a sanity check.

Do you think I would be okay to use a small screwdriver to allow some air in at one of the boot clamps?

Thanks

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It's not air that you need. The joint has seperated and needs to be [i believe] pushed back into place. You try to line it up so the shaft is straight on to the part that is in the tranny. Give it a push and it should go back in place. Sounds simple to say but if it doesn't look right it isn't.

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I think Dave is right and the joint has seperated and the boot looks collapsed because it's being stretched lenghtwise. If your joint is like the one on my 88 the cast piece of the joint which goes into the tranny has 3 rectangular grooves running inside it's lenght. There are 3 corresponding "square" needle bearing assembly's which should slide in the afore mention grooves, it sounds as if the bearing assy's have came out of the grooves.

The needle bearing assembly's are apx 1.25"x1.25"x.75" with the needle bearings around the edges, imagine a small cereal box with needle bearings rolling around the top, sides and bottom.

With the boot still on and not being able to see, getting everything to line up can be difficult.

If that does't happen then you might consider removing the large boot band and pulling the boot back towards the axel shaft for better visibilty so you can see what goes where.

Besides buying a replacement band you might also need to get the correct band tool for that style band.

hope this helps

Edited by Mike_s (see edit history)
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After re-reading you post and noticing that the knuckle fits onto the ball joint bolt, does make it sound as if it did not separate. I guess the question is if the boot lenght or dia collapsed?

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The inner CV joint should look like the other sides boot exactly and slide an inch or so easily. For the band that has a spread-ed crimp can be reused; one tool for most clamps is an end nipper or also side cutters work fine just to crimp with don't cut it. To get it open insert a spike into it and work the crimp open. You will also want to burp it after assembling it so the air in it won't expand and well, burp the grease and possibly come loose.

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Quick question - did you compare the new and old axles to make sure you were given the correct one? Parts stores are notorious for either giving you the wrong part, or their computer listing the wrong part for the car, and a half inch difference may not be obvious to the eye.

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In the case of front wheel drive axles, I always recommend OEM. If a jobber (China) shaft is used, I have found that they are of poor quality, have a short life, and usually do not fit properly. Have had the boots crack in as little as 6 months.

After the price of the OEM units is swallowed and forgotten, you will be much happier!

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