Model 20 Fan

[1910Hupp]

Can anyone provide me with pictures of the optional fan that ran off the fly wheel on 1911 onwards Model 20s. I'm trying to make my 1910 more Christmas parade friendly and would like to install a fan to cope with a parade speed driving in the height of our southern hemisphere summer . I would prefer to avoid an electric fan and stick with something that looks a bit more original Thanks Karl

[Tom400CFI]

Since no one has replied, I can offer you something...but not what you're asking for, unfortunately.

To help w/low speed temp control on our '10 Hupp, my Dad fabricated a sheet steel fan/flywheel shroud under the bottom 1/2 of the flywheel. From the front of the car it almost looks like a belly pan, but it ends right after the flywheel. In "stock" form, the entire bottom 1/2 of the flywheel is below the radiator. The air it draws does little to nothing to cool the radiator. This fairing or shroud makes that part of the flywheel, useful for cooling.

Our car seems to do fine in parades, even in 90*+ temps. Where it still needs help is climbing long hills where first gear is required. Motor is reving/working hard, but there is little to no air flow through the radiator. I've considered fabb'ing another shroud for the top 1/2 of the flywheel that forces all drawn air through the radiator. Haven't made one yet though.

Two pics here:

Edited January 19, 2010 by Tom400CFI (see edit history)

[1910Hupp]

Thanks -It would appear that the accessory fan was a rare accessory.

Originally I think there was a plate that sat below the radiator and perhaps stopped some of the draw through underneath -I don't have that plate and was considering putting it on in case it helped What you have done would work a lot better and I may well do something simaler . The other thing to think of is engine pans . Certainly engine pans on my Model A's really cool the engine down as they direct air from the fan along the side of the motor rather than out the bottom . Davic Cocco is fabricating some Model 20 pans currently I believe

Thanks again for your post and a really nice car! -Karl

[Guest winton]

I hung an automobile electric fan on temarary wires behind the radiator on my 1909. I mounted a motorcycle battery under the seat and a toggle switch outside of the body under the seat where it is east to reach and does not show. The fan runs for at least an hour of so and works fine . If you show the car, it's easy to pull the fan out.-winton

[Tom400CFI]

I think that's a good idea.

I've pondered that too, but worried about poeple frowning on it. Kind of dumb to worry about, when your touring and the car is gettting hot on a hill....huh?

[Guest Edgar Bowen]

I tried all manner of ways without adding a fan to improve the cooling of my Hupp but ended up with a modern tube and fin core and no middle tank just an enlarged upper tank. Result -the engine never over heats on the hottest days or stiffest hill climbs, providing the car is moving forwards. It may not be original but it works, looks good and saves a lot of heartbreak.

[Tom400CFI]

Can you post some pics? I'm interested.

[Guest Edgar Bowen]

How do I send pictures of my radiator?

[Tom400CFI]

host them on photobucket.com, then past the link photobucket provides you, here. The pictures will show up here in the thread, like mine above. If you right click on my pic above and click on "Properties"l you'll see the photobucket link/address.

Or you could email them to storm861triple@hotmail.com, and I can put them up here.

-Tom

[trimacar]

I have an original radiator, in good condition, on my '10 Model 20. Car stays cool, has never overheated, even in the hottest part of the year in Virginia (90 plus degrees). If a car's getting hot, then either the engine or the radiator is blocked in some way, and not letting the thermosyphon do it's job. I'd surely make sure everything was clean of crud before spending big bucks on a new radiator. best- dc

[Guest Edgar Bowen]

I am interested to hear that the original radiator is satisfactory in hot conditions.

I just had another thought about overheating of Hupp 20 engines. Ignition timing and valve timing must be correct according to the driver's manual, but just as important are the valve clearances. Too often owners resort to the clearances common in later model cars which are altogether unsuitable for a Hupp 20.

Set the inlet valves with around 18 thou tappet clearance, and the exhaust valves around 20 thou clearance. It makes a big difference to engine performance.

[1910Hupp]

Set the inlet valves with around 18 thou tappet clearance, and the exhaust valves around 20 thou clearance. It makes a big difference to engine performance.

Edgar Thats interesting. According to the previous owner/restorer (and what he has engraved on on the exhaust manifold as a memory aid) of my car The valve clearances on my car are 5 thou on the inlet and 7 thou on the exhaust. However I'm sure that the valves are not original and therefore would the clearance be different ?? I know one of my friends who builds racebike engines gets very excited about thermal expansion rates affecting clearances ie modern valves expand at different rates to the old valves due to different compositoin ie the old clearences may not work for new valves ???

Was on the Goldcoast 2 weeks ago. Had a great time although the weather was little better than New Zealand

[Tom400CFI]

I set mine at .005" intake, .008" exhaust and it works great. 18 and 20 seems WAY out of whack to me. Loosing some meaningful lift with those settings, IMO.

Thermal expansion does occur...but it isn't THAT much, and remember that as teh valves get longer, the block is also getting taller at the same time.

[1910Hupp]

Tom That makes me feel better

If my clearence had been to tight I would expected the performance to be well off but it seems to go alright for a 100- year old car -Karl