Anyone out there?

[Guest PWN]

Greetings!

I hope all is well with everyone? Give a shout out if you are still around.

Whats up with the club and newsletter?

My Chandler engine rebuild should be completed in the next month or so and the body is ready to be removed from the frame for painting, etc.

Gearing up for another push. I am just dying to get the car together and running again!

Take care,

Peter

[Lozierman]

Peter,

I'm here in Washington State. Haven't done anything with my Chandler project this year, but then the year isn't over either!

Unfortunately, I won't be attending Hershey this year so I won't make the annual meeting. I look forward to hearing about all the fabulous Chandler finds.

I also wondered about the newsletter. When can we expect another issue? Anyone????

[Guest 1929Chandler]

Hi Youall'

I'm still here ,Down South Carolina. I'm almost threw with the add on on my garage. Can't wait to get back to working on my Chandler!!! At least I'll have room to do it.If I can just rember how?

I hope everyone has a good time in Hershey. Hope to be at it next year.

Roger.

[Guest mena]

Hello

I am new to the chandler world as I recently purchased one at a local auction. It was in a barn since 1937. Couldn't pass it up.

[keiser31]

Sounds like a great car....got any photos??

[Guest mena]

I do, but am on the road. when I get home I will post them

[29 Chandler]

I am still here. No progress on our Chandler either. And I too am waiting to see a new newsletter. I heard from another member this week that he just got his first one since I retired. Anxious to read my copy.

Mena sounds like a great find. Please keep us posted. We love to see pictures.

Chris

[Guest PWN]

Hello Folks,

Good to hear from you.

News from the folks working on my engine is that it will be ready in a month or so.

I have attached a list of items being attended to. Any thoughts or ideas? Just thought it would be interesting for you to see.

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Cylinder Repair: One cylinder is cracked. 3 or 4 pins and sealer.

Seal second cylinder assy.

Includes : Shot Blast, Acid Dip, Repair crack

pressure seal cyl. assy. 350.00 pr.

All Labor above Included in the $350.00

Valve Service : Install guide liners , Ex. seats ?? (2.5 hr.$187.50)

Replace 6 ex. Valves (Stem Damage)

Rust and Lack of Oil caused the damage, Mainly Rust. $75.00 hr.

The <st1:place w:st="on">Cam</st1:place> appears to be OK, It has very unusual lobes.

Broken bolts are No Problem. Repairs are $10 t0 $20 ea.

The Timing Chain is One of THREE chains. Judging by the gear wear

the chain should be in

Cylinder work : Hone 6 cylinders, Clean Parts (Valves, Springs

Lifters, Sheet metal covers (4) 2.0 hrs. $150.00)

2 Sheet metal covers are water jackets, Fiberglass

would be the easiest repair. (2.0 hrs. $150.00)

Pistons : Clean and Glass Bead (.5 hr.$37.50)

Overall, the pistons are in good condition, One piston has some taper at the

skirt end, .002. I might be able to put some "Knurl" on the piston. This piston

may have over heated, or been stuck (rusted) to the cylinder.

The pistons appear to be .010 over. The bore is @ 3.510 and the pistons are

@ 3.508. Depending on which piston is in which cylinder there is .002 to .003.

If you like I can check the whole rotating assembly for balance. @ $150.00

Piston Rings : 3.500 bore 3/16" rings(All)

Size wise the cylinders look pretty good, But honing will really tell the story.

There may be some vertical scratches in the cylinders.

Rods : ReBabbitt - 1) Direct babbitt (like a Model A Ford)

2) Fabricate Molds and Pour Solid Babbitt*

3) Fabricate Bearing Shells and Babbitt*

Direct Babbitt rods @ 100.00 ea. + Materials

I would direct babbitt the rods due to the lower cost!

I made the suggestion of direct babbitt because you do not have a full set

of bearing shells. You have 3 solid Babbitt and 3 brass backed. The solid

babbitt will melt to nothing. Only the brass backed can be reused. So new

shells would need to be fabricated, at the same cost as the mains. So direct Babbitt is half the cost. The Babbitt is bonded to the rod, this eliminates

the need to fabricate the shells and the complex fitting procedures.

Pin Bushings are good. Several rod nuts are bad, Get a Set.

If you have a source to get the rod nuts then you should get them.

Block Clean : Spray Cab and wire brush, R+R Cam Bearings.

Spray cab, is the type of machine used to clean your engine block.

We also have tanks for cast iron and steel.

External paint, you should get. The company will buy a lower quality.

The Internal paint, I have a case of red electrical coating. If you

have ever seen the inside of an engine painted "brick red". This is it.

Main Bearings : ReBabbitt

1) Fabricate Molds and Pour Solid Babbitt*

2) Fabricate Bearing Shells and Babbitt*

*Fabrication for Molds or Shells @ 200.00 ea. + Materials

I would prefer brass backed bearing shells, they are stronger. However,

finding the brass stock can be time consuming. This is usually brass pipe,

Large bushings, or solid stock from a reclaimer. (used or scrap)

Align bore @ 400.00

Bearing Total Cost is @ 1600.00

Gaskets : Fabricate unavailable gaskets. (Time Only.)

Lots of Small Parts Cleaning and Detail.

Water Pump Repairs : Drill/Tap for set Screw Repair Outlet Nipple.

Grind Crankshaft .010 / .010

You will have to contact Linda for a Total Cost, I have no control over pricing.

Keep in mind that there is no way to be exact about pricing, It will vary more or less due to the circumstances encountered. As well as changes that you might want.

Let me know if you need more info.