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brake bleed advice needed


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My 90 tc is in the shop for brakes etc. I had just bought the car and the brakes felt soft and spongy and the abs light would flicker for a second when comming to a slightly hard stop. Replaced rotors,pads and front axels(car is 3.0 with auto trans)Mechanic has had problem with rear right caliper sticking and cant seem to bleed rear brakes.his proceedure was same as those I found in this forum.I could be wrong but I thought the accumulator and master cyl. looked as if they had been replaced by previous owner?I have new calipers& flex lines for rear if needed but he suspects it could be something else.I need advise from those wiser and more experienced than me and this mechanic. My prior experience is with older bmw's so im at a loss....Thanks:(:confused:

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One of the things different with the TC is that there is an electronic pump. When bleeding the rear brakes, the ignition key needs to be turned to the "run" position to allow the pump to build up pressure. (It will stop running in a few seconds after turning on the key.) Once this is performed, attach a clear hose to the end of the bleeder screw then open the bleeder screw one full turn then apply pressure to the brake pedal until the fluid is clear of bubbles. Close the bleeder screw before releasing the pedal. Repeat the same procedure on the other rear wheel. If the pedal goes completely to the floor, the accumulator may no longer have any pressure in it. (Turn the key on to build up pressure again.)

For the front brakes, the procedure is the same except for pressurizing the system.

If your mechanic has a pressure bleeder, it makes bleeding the brakes easier.

I have a TC service manual and pulled the information from the manual.

Be sure to use DOT-3 brake fluid. The manual is specific about this.

I could make a copy of the procedure and e-mail it to you if desired.

I have a '91 with 3.0 engine with automatic trans.

Duane

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FIRST MOST IMPORTANT.. Brake system is pressurized, working pressure is about 2900 lbs. Whar we all refer to as a master cylinder is on the TC a switch with multiple valves, a motorized pump, & a reservoir

When opening system for filling or any other reason key must be off and pedal pumped until it is hard as a rock..(No pressure assist). Front wheels are just as any other car. Rears are completely different. Switch off.. Pump pedal as described.. Jack up car remove rear wheels, crack open bleeders then reclose.. fill brake fluid reservoir . close cap.. Turn on key.. use pedal depresser to hold down pedal.. Open right side bleeder.. close when fluid runs clear (no bubles).. Do the same on left side.. Turn off key install tires etc. pump down pedal, refill reservoir. all should be OK.

Good Luck, Lou

Edited by LouZ (see edit history)
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While I agree with the bleeding procedure that Lou has detailed, I disagree re: pumping the system down when refilling the master cylinder reservoir---it is not necessary. It is only necessary to pump it down if you are disconnecting a hydraulic component (hose, caliper, etc). Hope this helps.

Tim

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As far as pressure relief is concerned as in blowing the fluid all over the place. you are correct ~ But ~ The full arrow level on the resivour is for pressure relieved. If you notice when the system is pressurized the fluid will go down about 1/4" to 3/8" The system was designed to be filled unpressurized.. LZ

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I was off reading another thread, and something clicked. I think I remember that the calipers can be reversed. Right on left etc. If that is so, and it is possible to do that check on the bleeder. It must be on the top part of the caliper. if it was reversed it would be on the bottom and would not allow all the air to be bled off. Lou

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Ok, so rear brakes are bled and calipers appear to be working but still getting a flickering of the abs light so im told its a faulty abs switch to the tune of $500. so my question is ; is this an relativley easy part to replace(still waiting for chrysler repair manual)and is this one of those obscure parts to source?thanks again to all who have responded!

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You might want to check your wheel bearings. My wife's Buick had the flickering ABS light problem because of a worn hub bearing which made the ABS light go whacko. Replaced the hub/bearing unit...all is fine with the light now.

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OK, STOP ! STOP ! STOP !

Go to: Reatta Data Page Click on this

Read those 5 pages, print them off, Perform the tests. It will take less than 10 minutes. You will probably perform them twice (understanding and proof) Then let's see what you might need... These brakes are also computer controlled. The Brake Controller is behind the right kick panel.. They also sometimes do not instantly and totally correct themselves lick a strictly mechanical type system.. They even self compensate for pedal height... What kind of light flicker and when.. Fault Information needs to be text book exact and precise for us to give a diagnosis Don't sound like a $500.00 switch.. Lou

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Thanks for taking the time Lou.I will study this info and check all this weekend,I hope. I will post my results/concerns or more questions.Im happy to have found this site and all its helpful members as I am new to this car and plan to bring it back to excellent condition.

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If you need the 3 way pressure switch, it is very expensive from the dealer. The GM ones do NOT fit, as the electrical connections between the GM and TC systems have different connectors. You may want to consider a completely remanufactured system with warranty for basically the cost of the switch and a new accumulator the remanufactured system comes standard with.

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