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First engine pull...need advice


stealthbob

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Well days after my 54 Roadmaster arrived the engine quit...ceased actually.

The heads have been removed and no damage spotted yet but still no movement on the crank so out she comes for a full engine restoration. (something that was to happen anyway this winter)

Now my questions are this:

  1. I have to pull out with transmission attached so do I have to drop the rear axle and remove the torque tube first or can I just pull everything out forward?
  2. Where do I attach chains/straps considering that the heads are off and the transmission is coming out as well? Basically where is the best balance point to allow some angle drop to happen but not too much.

I have a 10' Gantry with 2 tonne chain fall from work and many clevises, chain and lifting straps. I will also have a bud over for this part...maybe two.

Best advice for this part of the job please...I want this to be safe and damage free ;)

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I assume you NEED to pull it with the trans because you can't rotate the crank. The rear does not have to be moved. Just disconnect at the torque tube. Your attach point will probably be at the rear head bolt holes. I usually just use the head or similar bolts to bolt a chain into the head bolt holes.

Help will save a lot of getting up and down but is not essential. What is essential is an acute awareness of not getting hurt. Do not take any safety short cuts. Use only sturdy body stands. watch your fingers. Do not get under the suspended engine/trans. etc. etc. etc. Pulling an engine is stone boat simple but the potential for injury is very real........Bob

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Great...you confirmed what I thought and was hoping.

I will use the holes you suggested...with the gantry it should make it allot safer. I will be able to lift higher than an engine hoist and then slide the engine over on the rail to the side of the car rather than try and roll the gantry around the front. I only have about two feet past the front of the car in my garage and was worried how an engine hoist would fit.

Thank you, I'm now set to do this on Saturday.

BTW...any estimate on the weight of the block (heads removed) and transmission?

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Great...you confirmed what I thought and was hoping.

I will use the holes you suggested...with the gantry it should make it allot safer. I will be able to lift higher than an engine hoist and then slide the engine over on the rail to the side of the car rather than try and roll the gantry around the front. I only have about two feet past the front of the car in my garage and was worried how an engine hoist would fit.

Thank you, I'm now set to do this on Saturday.

BTW...any estimate on the weight of the block (heads removed) and transmission?

It's ofttimes easier to move the car back out from under the engine than move the engine. I think you will be surprised at the length of the eng/trans assembly. Weight I would take a WAG (wild assed guess) of around

750 pounds. Take everything slow and expect to find something you forgot to disconnect when the engine is about half way up..................

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It's ofttimes easier to move the car back out from under the engine than move the engine. I think you will be surprised at the length of the eng/trans assembly. Weight I would take a WAG (wild assed guess) of around

750 pounds.

The car (18') is in a 20' long garage...not much room for manoeuvring as there is a deep lip to my gravel drive way right in front of the garage.

Take everything slow and expect to find something you forgot to disconnect when the engine is about half way up..................

Yea.. I'm guessing that's where having some extra eyes/hands is good while lifting.

I know this was about a simple question as it gets but I just wanted to make sure there was not something I was missing especially with the torque tube. I will have to drop the rear and move it back for reassembly though right?..... or will I be ok as long as someone is down there guiding it in?

My equipment is well rated for this lift and it should be fun to do.

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It's possible to line up the torque tube spline on installation but after all is said and done it's probably less hassle just pulling the rear back to get it out of the way first.

One last thing. Expect anti freeze coolant pools on the floor. Please be aware it is very sweet and tastes good to pets. Only a few ounces will mean kidney failure and slow death. Always clean it right up and NEVER leave an open bucket of it where pets can get at it. I know this from very bitter experiance........Bob

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Thank you for that coolant advice...I have no pets any more but have heard about some tragic mistakes involving just such a thing. You just can't remind folks enough about stuff like that.

I have to replace the rear springs anyway so I guess I will do that just after the engine replacement.

Thank you for all your help..

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Bob, Some great tips so far, Bhigdog has been there, done that, he won't lead you wrong. Don't forget the temperature gauge line and be careful not to break. And like Bhigdog said, be careful. Take lots of pictures for help in reassembly and please post some as you go.

Happy Wrenchin :)

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Ummm...I guess you missed that part, I made a blunder and broke the temp gauge. :o

I barely pulled on it, I slid the retention nut off and gently pulled and it just came out easy...with out the end. :(

It was really corroded and it's such a tiny tube that holds on...the bottom was completely corroded in place. Took some effort just to get that part out...

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Well it was a big day here in the Buick Garage...I completed my first ever pull out of an engine. It went off without a hitch and had fun doing it. The Gantry and electric chain hoist really made the job easy.

3935964830_94427b3613.jpg

My whole reason for pulling was that it was ceased and after loosening all the bearing caps that I could without out turning the crank it still would not move. To be honest I was worried because I had no idea how to get to the bolts that I couldn't reach.

I took a little break and beer to contemplate my next move and decided to loosen off the Harmonic Balancer nut as I was really tightening it.....POP it moved and now it goes back and forth with ease.

I will only turn it the required rotation to take the transmission off then I get to put it up on the stand and take the rest of the bottom end out. I have to say at this point everything looks great...all the bearings and journals are clean and free of any ridges or marks.

This has to be the best possible outcome from this ceasing...whew what a great day! :)

On another note...found a little sludge. :o

3935965384_604a9594a6.jpg

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Nice gantry set up. I'm not familiar with a "gantry" but I don't understand how you got the engine out without still having to pull the gantry out into the gravel driveway you spoke of. Can you show a picture of that. What size are the wheels on the gantry, do they make it easier to roll across rough surfaces. If so then that's what I need in my Shade Tree Garage.

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Yea that lip at the end of the garage was my main issue with this engine pull...

3938084182_45cb43d1d9.jpg

I use my ATV with plow during the winter and inevitably year by year my driveway ends up on the lawn... :(

I looked at the engine hoist at work and quickly decided it was too small. I then looked at a rental engine hoist and thought it would have the strength and hight but I still had to pull it straight out in front of the car. I then remembered about our old Gantry's at work They are not used any-more as we now have a nice Boomlift truck.

A Gantry is just a lifting device that has a beam and that the lift point can moved along the beam. Typically used to span larger openings and for us to pull pumps and motors from lift-stations. The wheels are 4" and I used an old carpet over the gravel. I transfered the load weight to the side in the garage and was easily able to roll the and around and back into the garage with a little lift. I also did have another bud over for help but I figure it could have been done on my own.

3938083470_7de8d2e559.jpg

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It's all made out of aluminium and can be assembled (attach boom to the two ends) by one person in about 5 minutes. The capacity on this one is 1100 lbs...close to my lift but certainly fine. Couple that with the electric chain hoist it made the whole process of pulling and separating the transmission quite simple and more importantly SAFE!

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