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Help on thermostat Pleeease


Roadster90

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We are working on / replacing the intake gaskets right now and since I have been having a/c and heat flow problems (especially since replaing the thermostat several years ago and may have installed it ot the gaskets wrong) can I get the correct way to reinstall or replace the thermostat please. I think I should use a 180* stat (not sure what kind) and the pointy end goes up....but what and wher do the O-righs and or gaskets go please?

Thanks,

Nic

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I always use a Stant Superstat 59848 (180F). Pointy end goes up. Everything is thoroughly cleaned. New cylendrical gasket with flat sides & lip into end of water neck. New O-ring on side of water neck lubricated with liquid soap. Slides right in by hand. Tighten to 7-10 lb-ft (1/4" stubby driver is good, bolt is just to hold in place, O-ring seals.

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I just replaced my T-stat with a 180F SuperStat, and only used a new O-ring on the neck (elbow). There was some weird existing gasket on the bottom of the elbow, but it was all distorted/melted, and didn't fit that good when installing the new T-stat, so I left it out. I don't see why it should require any other O-ring than the one that goes in the external groove of the neck, because when you tighten down the bolt, the neck seems to pinch down on the flange of the T-stat. I took some measurements with a caliper, and at least that's what the measurements show.

The weird thing, is that my car shows a stable 160-165F with air flow over radiator (more than 15 mph) with the new 180F SuperStat. I'm wondering if my coolant Temp sensor is off a little....

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The one O-ring is not really an o-ring. It has a groove in it that slips around the thermostat before placing it in the housing. If you don't use it, the thermostat will be able to move around a little in the housing and allows water to seep past it. It makes warm-up times longer, and mileage suffers if you live in a colder climate, to say nothing of shivering a bit longer. Ask your parts supplier and he can look it up for you. It is not usually included when you ask for a new thermostat. If you say "o-ring" he'll probably be looking at his pictures and give you the o-ring for the neck. Someone had pics of it on earlier posts.

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I don't see how the T-stat could move (at all), when the neck clamps down on the T-stat flange. I did a test-fit, first installing the neck without a T-stat, and noticed that the neck sits lower into the housing; then installed the neck with the T-stat and noticed a slight gap between neck and housing. My measurements on the housing and neck seemed to confirm that the T-stat flange gets pinched between the two. I also bought the "gasket" that slips onto the T-stat flange, and it seemed to cause much interference with the neck, and therefore I didn't use it. I can't imaging any more that a few drops getting by the T-stat, without this "gasket". Plus, why does the service manual (1989) not show this gasket? It only shows one o-ring. (along with an upside down T-stat).

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There has been much discussion (do a forum search) about how the thermostat seals and the type of gaskets and orings that are used. There has never been a consensus on the exact way the thermostat should seal. The water neck uses an oring to seal.

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There was a TSB on the second gasket but I have seen both of them - the one at the local FLAPS fits into the water neck but I just came across one of the other (below).
The thermostat and seal shown in your photo is the design that is in my '88 model. I have been trying to explain here before how the seal fits around the outside perimeter. Some have reported they can not get one like it to go into the intake, but I have no problems at all. Were the '88 models designed differently from other years?
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