Paul K. Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 How is everyone adjusting timing and dwell? I have an earlier Technicial Service Bulletin manual from 1938-1940, I also have access to a distributor machine and a friend that knows how to use it. What about in the car adjustments. Do I need the "special cap" to install on the distributor mentioned in technical service bulletin OPR.12127-M page 64. April 15, 1938? Would a 6 volt timing light suffice? Very different design on these cars. Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mssr. Bwatoe Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 You can measure the timing as illustrated ..1 hole vs another ..most motor manuals..the best way / only real way , is to mount it on a "sun" or heyer machine...You must synch the points like 2 engines on a boat....left and right sides of engine operate seperately..Call Jake Flemming in Tx. He can coach you...great friendly manI tried 2 timing lights, one on each side to experiment..if u are tinkering..with it running , carefully and slowley turn the inner screw, on the side of dist. Main plate and screw, advance the hole plate, both sets of pts for timings...inner screw advances one set vs the other..very impt..BE CAREFUL FAN WILL BITE YOU...The big screw with vac line is vac advance system ..adjusted for "ping" on acceleration "fine tuning" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest peter_smith Posted July 31, 2009 Share Posted July 31, 2009 PaulIf your friend has the proper timing jig, and knows how to use it, you shouldn't have any problems setting the distributor up. The jig sets the timing at 4deg advance on the crankshaft.Last year I found through experimenting, and having the distributor off many times that the engine runs much better and cooler on today's fuels if the timing is set to 6deg BTDC (3 deg on the jig). The fact that the engine runs cooler at this setting suggested to me that at the old setting of 4 deg the engine is actualy running retarded. I tried it at 7 deg, with not much improvement over the 6, so I am presently running at 6 1/2 deg, hope this is of some help.RegardsPeter Smith UK Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Paul K. Posted August 1, 2009 Author Share Posted August 1, 2009 Thanks, this is a great help. I'll discuss this with my friend and Jake too. Hope to be driving this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peecher Posted August 1, 2009 Share Posted August 1, 2009 (edited) Be aware that the '41 and newer distributors all have a higher maximum advance than the eariler '36 to '40 models. You may find that adjusting the vacuum brake will give you the advance you're looking for? You may want to discuss this with Jake. You can tell if you have this newer distributor by checking the number stamped on the drive key. The no. "16H xxxx" indicates it's the newer style. The range on the newer distributor is 2 to 25 deg's crankshaft. The earlier distributors were set at 4 deg's intial advance but had a little less range. Edited August 2, 2009 by peecher (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v12lincoln Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I have a distributor machine and doing it the way the manual says with some machinist rulers comes out as good or better. Also when you mount the distributor the dwell can change up to 15 degrees if you over tighten the dist.Once you get a dist. set up by someone with a machine recheck your dwell once its on and running to see if it changes. I spent 3 days dialing in 2 distributors for my car so I knew they would be perfect if I ever had to swap them out while on the road. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest friscozephyr Posted August 4, 2009 Share Posted August 4, 2009 I was thinking of bidding on a Sun distributor tester on Ebay. Does anyone have any experience using a Sun for timing a LZ V12 distributor ? Are they any particular models better suited for a LZ distributor (e.g., Sun MD1, 400 series, 500 series, etc.) ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
v12lincoln Posted August 11, 2009 Share Posted August 11, 2009 I havent used a Sun machine because someone made off with the adaptor but I do have an old Allen dist. machine that was made in 48 and still works good. I have found the best way is the way in the manual. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest friscozephyr Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 I plan on following the manual word for word. Your fortunate to have an Allen dist. machine. Another good piece of vintage equipment that is tough to find in good shape. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest friscozephyr Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 Speaking if old Allen Dist. machines check this one out from the San Diego Auto Museum. I must of not noticed it on my last trip to this museum. I was too fixated with the cars and motorcycles. Another amazing piece of automotive equipment to go with our LZs.Quite a different design from the Suns and Heyers. I love the two industrial lights above the turntable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peecher Posted August 12, 2009 Share Posted August 12, 2009 If you time and sync the points manually an ohm meter (across the points) will be very useful when determining the "just starting to open point". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest friscozephyr Posted August 20, 2009 Share Posted August 20, 2009 Could someone explain what the "special cap" does in regards to testing an LZ distributor stroboscope. This special cap keeps getting mentioned in the Service Bulletins but it is unclear what its function is. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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