1959 Skyliner A/C problem

[Guest Richard D]

The fan stopped working on my 1959 Skyliner. The motor is fine, it runs when supplied with 12 volts. Can someone tell me where the fuse is located? Compressor runs and evaperator gets cold. The fan just quit running. The A/C is original.

Thank's

Richard

[Guest Richard D]

Can someone who has 1959 Ford service manual that shows the wiring for the A/C just send me that page, or tell me where to look for the blower fuse? I don't think it has to be a Skyliner. I only drive the car about once a month but run it once a week and run the transmission through the gears.

Thank's to all,

Richard.

[Guest mercman86]

The fuse should be located with the others in the fuse block under the dash on the drivers side. I believe those have a resistor for the speeds. If the resistor is fried, that would cause the blower to stop working. Have you taken a light tester or voltmeter and checked to see if there is power at the switch? If you are, use the light tester to make sure the switch is working.

Hope this helps!

Alex

[Guest Richard D]

Hi Alex, Thank You for your help. There is no fuse in that fuse block marked blower or A/C and they all check good on my Fluke meter. The compressor clutch does engage, there is no power at the switch, the resistor bank is in the flow of air to keep it cool and the resistors check good and when put to hi speed it shows no resistance to the motor as it should. I am wondering if maybe there is a fusible link somewhere? The local Ford dealer laughed when I took it to the service dept. and asked if they had a diagram of the electrical. All they wanted was to see the top retract, of course I ran it down and back up. One mechanic said he might have the service manual on CD and will look. HELP, it was 91 degrees and 89% humidity yesterday.

Thank's to all,

Richard.

[Guest mercman86]

Thats good that the resistor checks out. Thats odd that there isn't a fuse on the fuse block, theres one on my Ranchero. I am not sure if there is a fusable link somewhere. Your best bet is to try and trace the positive lead to the switch back to its power source. If there isn't a fusable link in the line, chances are its just a broken or corroded connection. Or in my case when it came to the wipers, a little critter decided to make his nest out of my wiring! Just trace it, it should be somthing obvious like a chafed or broken wire. Those hard rubber/plastic connectors Ford used back then get funny with age and also could be causing a problem.

Good luck and let me know if you find anything!

Alex

[Guest Richard D]

I think you are correct, I will attempt to trace the blower power wire back to it's in-line fuse or fusible link or corroded connector. It is strange that the switch will start the compressor but not the fan. If I put power to the blower motor it runs fine. Plus I am not 20 years old anymore and my back does not bend like it used to. AARRGGGHHH!!!

[rick60]

I have a 1960 schematic that shows no fuse. There is a 20 amp circuit breaker. This provides 12v for the fan and compressor. The '60 schematic shows 12v provided to the fan switch at the brown wire. Red wire is low speed, blue wire is medium speed, orange is high speed. You know that the motor and ground are good because the motor works when 12v is applied. You know that the circuit breaker is good because the ac clutch is engaging. The next step is to see if 12v is available at the brown wire at the switch. If there is no 12v at the switch, check for an open circuit between the switch and breaker. If 12v is available use a fused jumper wire at the switch connecter to bypass the switch. Brown to orange should provide high speed fan operation. Brown to blue should provide medium speed fan operation. Brown to red should provide low speed fan operation. You can also check for input voltage at the resistor. Red will be 12v when low is selected. Blue will be 12v when medium is selected. Orange wire should vary depending what speed is selected. An ohmmeter is the best way to check wire continuity. Be sure there is no power in the circuit when checking continuity. If you bypass the switch and the blower works, the problem is the switch. If there is no varing voltage to the orange wire terminal of the resistor when 12v is provided to the appropriate input terminal, the problem is the resistor. If there is voltage available at the orange wire terminal of the resistor or fan speed switch your problem is an open circuit in the orange wire. I'm pretty sure that there is no difference in the '59 or '60 schematics. It will take you less time to do these checks than it did for me to type this reply. It is a very simple system. Good luck!

[Guest Richard D]

Hi Rick, Thank You very much. This is the info I needed. I will take out the Fluke multimeter tomorrow and start tracing. I have a feeling that the brown wire failed between the circuit breaker and fan switch because the compressor clutch engages.

THANK'S TO ALL WHO READ THIS THREAD.

Regards,

Richard

[Guest Richard D]

I checked the brown wire going to the fan speed switch and there was no power. I began tracing it back under the dash until I found a 20 amp fuse in a melted 10 amp in-line fuse holder. I don't know if it's factory but I installed a heavy duty 25 amp fuse holder with a 20 amp fuse and I have A/C again. Many Thank's to all who read the thread and those who had ideas.

CHEERS,

Richard

[Guest mercman86]

Im glad you were able to find the problem! I know how frustrating electrical problems are.

Take care!