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Hey Guys,

I need some advice, I am doing some maintenance on my old car hauler. A little background here the trailer is 15 yrs old, and has a wrinkle on the left fender where someone didn't look before backing up. I recently replaced the bed in the trailer, and now I am wanting to paint the trailer. Now as with most of you, the trailer has double duty, it carries the 22 Dodge around to local shows, but also spends an equal amount of time carrying the little John Deere around when I need to till or bushhog for my folks.

I started doing some research on paint, because I don't want to spend a $1,000 on a paint job for the trailer. I am considering painting it with POR 15 or a product similar to it. Do you guys have any suggestions?

Thanks in advance.

Chop

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Por 15 is a great choice for protection from rust. It is a very tough finish. You must keep it in mind though it has NO UV protection in it. This only means that it will eventually turn grey or not nice and black like new. It has been said a cure for this is a light dusting of another product on top of it a few hours after you apply the POR. This from our POR rep. Do not use the POR without gloves. It will not come off without removing skin. It is a great product in my opinion.

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Call your local automotive paint supply house and ask for Chassis Saver. As far as we can determine it is the same as POR 15 at much less cost. By the way, does anyone know where the POR 15 factory is?

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Restorer32</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Call your local automotive paint supply house and ask for Chassis Saver. As far as we can determine it is the same as POR 15 at much less cost. By the way, does anyone know where the POR 15 factory is?</div></div>

It says "Morristown, New Jersey" on their website.

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Are you planning on brushing or spraying? Depending how picky you are with the finished result you could brush it on and it would look a whole lot better than it does now.

I am contemplating painting my trailer as well. To do it right would mean sanding or having it blasted, then epoxy primer then a quality automotive paint and as you said, suddenly the cost goes up as much as half what the trailer is worth depending how much you can do yourself.

Either way if you brush or spray a good option is to use an Implement paint typically sold at tractor supply stores. These paints are very durable and can be sprayed or brushed with nice results.Just prime any bare metal first. I know you aren't supposed to but I have used implement paint right over rust and it has held up surprisingly well.

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When I re did my open car trailer (maybe 8 years ago) I scraped the loose paint off and brushed/rolled on RustOleum on the steel parts and used pressure treated 5/4 for the decking. It sits out in the Summer but is under cover in the Winter, the paint has faded some but has held up well.

Was interesting that it cost me more to redo the trailer that the material costs when my Dad built it in 1972.

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Hey Guys

Thanks for the suggestions, I am sorry it took so long to reply, I have been out of town.

The chassis saver or implement paint might be the best option for me if I can get it in a spray can. I would like something that looks decent, so I would prefer to spray it over brushing on the stuff, I have never painted anything with a brush that turned out looking good. Not knocking the style of application, just my abilities to do it well.

I know that some of those will allow you to paint over rust and not have to do a lot of prep work on the metal, which appeals to me.

If anyone has any other comments please send them on.

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I've been looking into implement paint at Tractor Supply. You can get a gallon for roughly $45, but I believe it is only meant to be sprayed. So far it seems to be the best way to go if you want to paint something without spending as much as if you were painting something auto related.

It's already been said, but just to reinforce the point...POR 15 isn't a good choice for something that is going to be exposed to any amount of sunlight as it does change in color (and I haven't had it happen to me, but have heard that it can become chalky as well). I've also heard of people spraying clear over it to add UV protection and make it last longer but I would question if it's really worth it when you can use implement paint instead.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: JZRIV</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Either way if you brush or spray a good option is to use an Implement paint typically sold at tractor supply stores. These paints are very durable and can be sprayed or brushed with nice results.Just prime any bare metal first. I know you aren't supposed to but I have used implement paint right over rust and it has held up surprisingly well. </div></div>

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We used to sandblast 40+ hours/week, antique car parts, boat trailers, lawn tractors, concrete mixers, whatever. By far the crappiest paint you can buy is Implement Paint. Primer is very important. Makes all the difference in the world. I would assume ease of sandblasting equates with paint quality.

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I took my boat trailer apart and had all the parts galvanized. It was $ .21 a pound to burn the paint off the parts I couldn't sandblast in my booth and $ .35 a pound to hot dip galvanized.

They actually burned the paint off in the molten zinc tank, kept at 850°. They then acid bathe the metal, returning it to raw steel before starting the galvanizing process.

I had every part of a 21-foot boat trailer done, including the axle and springs, for under $500. It'll patina to a dull gray but can easily be brightened with a wire wheel. It'll never rust again.

IMG_2636.jpg

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Don't forget about the old bottle sprayers that you use with your vacuum cleaner. I painted my car 23 years ago that way. I still looks fair and if I had done some sanding preparation rather than just washing down with solvent it would have come out a lot better. By the way the photo was taken two years ago.

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Barry...did you actually hoist that boat onto that trailer with a fork lift and a chain?

Yup, lifted the rear with an engine lift and the front with the hilo and slide the trailer back into place.

I'm about to start to galvanize two of my other trailers.

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