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1968 Barracuda gas tank removel


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My 68 Cuda keeps quiting after about 3 or 4 minutes of running. I think the gas tank has alot of crud in it. No I am not sure thats the problem. I figure it can't hurt to clean it out any way. Any advice as to the best way to remove the gas tank with out having it blow up? Also any one know where to find steel braided gas lines? I have to replace them and need a gas line that will not colapse when at the drag strip.

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Guest simplyconnected

Instead of using steel braided, why not use steel (or copper) tubing? Your connections can be short pieces of neoprene gas line hose. When done, it will not collapse.

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I did not know that you could use straight steel or copper lines. I like the idea of the steel lines. I am using a 3/8 inch gas line. Thanks.

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I keep wishing for ethanol gas in Illinois, so I keep buying racing fuel. Yes, it's more expensive, but the octane is required for all my cars. Yes all, I use my 68 Fury III as my daily driver. Yes call me crazy but I have not seen a car I like that I can afford. That is not 40 years old.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi Moparnut...

Last weekend I removed the fuel tank from my 1967 Plymouth Belvedere II, so I completely understand your woes. I had the same issue, except mine's been sitting for almost 6 years while I was in military service and too busy to fuss with her.

At any rate...BEFORE you mess with this project, check your prices on new hoses, new fuel lines (I'm getting stainless), a new sending unit (again, I'm getting stainless), a new tank (it may be more cost effective to buy new rather than have your tank dipped and prepped..esp if during the process they find holes, then you need new anyway).

There are other suppliers out there (and I recommend you check around), but I'll base this off Year One's prices (the most expensive I know). Hoses are looking about $150/set, a 19 gal fuel tank $230-something, SS fuel lines about $130, SS sending unit about $100. Plus, get new grommets, do yourself a favor and buy a new fuel tank strap and hardware while you're at it. They're cheap anyway. It's always nicer to work with new parts if you can afford it in this case.

Your fuel lines should be connected to the tank by a small piece of rubber hose, then hard line, then rubber hose to your fuel pump.

Once I dropped my tank, I realized I needed ALL OF THE ABOVE and now I'm dead in the water until I get all my parts.

So, to remove: I figured this out the hard way..you'll need something to pry with, a flat blade screwdriver for hose clamps, probably a box knife (I used one), socket and rachet set, eye protection, siphon equipment, floor jack, etc. Pretty basic.

#1 Siphon all the gas out that you can. Use it on your burn pile if allowed! Do not use this nasty gas in anything else. I put in 5 gallons of premium the other day (it was clear)...when it came out it was pinkish-brown. Gross. If your car is low, put her on jack stands so you have some clearance. Oh, and don't even think about smoking. We'll read about you as a ball o'fire.

#2 Wear safety glasses that provide really good coverage. I recommend you have a buddy around to help hand you tools and hold items. My 18 year old son worked perfect for this task. Remove your sending unit electrical connection. Mark it so you can find it again for reinstallation. It's dark and nasty under there! On my B-body tank, it was nearest the rear differential and at the top of the tank.

#3 If you open up your fuel line at the fuel pump, you can alleviate fuel line pressure so not as much will come out at the tank end upon removal. Remove your fuel line at same location. You may have to cut the now-hardened-over-the-years short rubber hose there. Watch out for gas. Keep your mouth closed!

#4 Remove the rubber filler neck 90 degree hose (from gas cap to hardline filler neck). Mine was rotted so I cut it (a $50 replacement, but required). Remove the hard line filler neck to gas tank grommet (mine was a gummy-bear consistancy) but pulling and prying off GENTLY.

#5 Remove the fuel tank vent line connection. This is a hard line with rubber on one end and a grommet on the other. It begins and terminates right next to the inlet filler. Some cars have TWO vent lines, mine did not. I cut this hose, it was very short and very hard.

#6 Now is a good time to ensure you removed ALL THE GAS POSSIBLE. Siphon again! You have a big opening now and can get that hose all the way in. The more you get out now, the less to slosh on you shortly.

#7 Brace the underside of the gas tank to keep it from falling and sloshing on you. I suggest a floor jack with wood to disperse pressure. Some tanks have additional bolts, besides the fuel tank strap(s). Check around the tank carefully with your hands. Manuals said mine had those extra bolts and it didn't.

#8 My Belvedere only has one fuel tank strap. Some models have two. In any case, on the passenger side is the side to loosen it on. It is held in there with a curved bolt. I want to say it is either 1/2" or 9/16", use a deep well socket and a long handled rachet; this thing was STUCK ON TIGHT.

#9 Now is the time to drop your tank, do it carefully and with those extra hands I mentioned before.

#10 Once done, take a flashlight and peek inside. You'll wonder how in the world your car ever ran. I did. You can easily remove your sending unit now too. It's held in with a ring similar to those used on metal 55 gal barrels. Use something (I misused a large hardened screwdriver, but I cannot publicly condone that) to push against it and it will rotate eventually. Mine was covered in years of dirt and goo.

#11 Your sending unit will come right out, again, mine looked like it came off the wreckage of the Titanic. Chunks were actually missing off of it.

I hope that helps. If not, hit me up and I'll do my best to answer your question. Good luck!


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