Jump to content

Another *&^%^&* Headlight Question


HRP

Recommended Posts

I installed the "Barney Cranks", and after several months, the left headlight will not open unless I just slightly loosen the knob on the headlight motor. Before I dismantle the whole assembly again, any "simple" suggestions for a fix??

Thanks.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest steveskyhawk

Order a Reatta headlight "Crankarm" repair kit from Kingsley Baker in California. Kingsley's hardware will outlast the rest of the car. His ads are on ebay or you can email him at hkbjr@yahoo.com

GM quit supporting the Reatta long ago which created a need for replacement bellcranks. Some temporary fixes evolved including the ones that have failed in your car. I have seen the old fixes and Kingsley's products. Believe me there is no comparison in quality and durability. Kingsley also makes a visor clip for your Reatta convertible. He and I did some destructive testing during the final phase of visor clip development. My comment to Kingsley after we broke a couple of visor clips was somthing like "short of doing chinups on the sun visor they seemed unbreakable."

Kingsley has tentative plans to reproduce many of the unavailable plastic Reatta parts that we currently search for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

When the headlight opens and closes, the rotation of the arm goes slightly past "center" of rotation which locks the headlight up or down. Unless something is mechanically catching, the motor should have enough torque to open or close.

I checked my sales records and cannot find a sale made in Greensboro NC for the last year. I wanted to see if you purchased the kit. If you did not install the plastic rollers in the motor, that might be your problem.

I see no reason that the bellcrank has anything to do with your problem.....the bellcrank solves problems. Spending good money to buy another bellcrank from anyone is a waste of time and money.

Should you find a "Barney Crank" to be defective, return it for a free replacement.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My experience with Fiero and a few Reatta motors is that this kind of problem is usually related to worn/stuck brushes and/or a dirty armature. The bellcrank has nothing to do with it other than if the rubber cushion is missing it may warp things slightly (the motor controller is load based and turns off when the torque increases as the crank hits the stop.

Offhand I cannot think of any way the bellcrank alone could cause that problem.

A quick fix might be to just remove the bellcrank, turn the axle 180 degrees, and reinstall. I'd try that first since the two screws that hold the motor to the gearbox often break when removing.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest steveskyhawk

Barney is correct. One of my cars had an inoperative headlight. Upon disassembly the original crankarm was fine but the nylon bushings came out looking like unrefined sugar. The original poster implied that the replacement crankarm had failed. I stand corrected.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I am assuming I need Barney cranks too as mine will not open without pressure on the outside lifting when the switch is turned on. ( I had to use a 55 degree sand wedge to open it the other night. That wedge has saved me more than once.) The crank wobbles all over even though the bolt is tight. Seems as though something is loose inside. I guess it might be worth a look at Pagett's suggestion, because a lot of his suggestions work.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That is what mine is doing. I have some nylon rollers. i am wondering if I should just go ahead and get the cranks and do it all at once.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any advice before pulling apart. I watched it last night and I can see the 10mm nut on the output shaft turning to raise the headlight. It is just turning inside the arm. Does that sound more like a stripped out crank arm? It looks as though it is a little work to remove it and get a good look at everything. I can get my finger in on the crank and get it to open manually.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest steveskyhawk

ekvh,

Sounds like the typical Reatta hedlight problem. Crank arm's double D hole is rounded out. All three of the available kits come complete with detailed instructions. You shoud have a replacement crank arm and the rollers prior to disassembly. It is possible that both are bad. I have seen headlights open even after the rollers had nearly turned to powder.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

There are two good articles on my website about the headlight motors.

Click here for gearbox repair instructions.

Click here for instructions on how to do a zero cost repair to the bellcrank.

I repaired my bellcranks 2 years ago and they still work perfectly.

You can buy bellcrank replacements. Kingsley and Barney both sell good aftermarket replacements.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thank-you Ronnie. i can now see what the problem is likely to be. Awesome! And to be able to fix it myself is even better.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ronnie, If the crank arm is rounded out and I drill it out, will the set screw method still work if clamped to flat part of the output shaft as it appears they are 90 degrees off from each other?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The reason you drill out the hole is so you can turn the bellcrank to where the set screws will be tightening down on the flats of the shaft 180 degrees apart.

If that is not clear in the instructions, maybe I need to change the tutorial to make it easier to understand. I will take a look at it and make changes if needed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ronnie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I repaired my bellcranks 2 years ago and they still work perfectly.

You can buy bellcrank replacements. Kingsley and Barney both sell good aftermarket replacements. </div></div>

Well..newbie here and if I may add my frustrations, my drivers side headlamp decided not to open last night. I am not a DYI person {oil changes I can do and maybe change a bulb. Otherwise... smile.gif }. My mechanic says the arm assembly needs to be replaced. Can someone lead me to the Kingsley and Barney link (couldn't find them on Google) or provide specific information on which item I need (i.e the correct terminology) or where to purchase the item at another place? I just want this fixed and not have to be concerned if a quasi repair is made that this will happen again.

If I seem ticked, I am (I'm also very tired). It's no fun taking side roads home at 2AM for 45 minutes driving like a pirate when a freeway trip with both eyes open would have taken 15 minutes. Also FWIW, the manual knob would not open the headlamp. frown.gif

Thanks for the help.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Barney can be contacted at: barney@texas.net

Click here for info about Kingsley's bellcrank kits.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just want this fixed and not have to be concerned if a quasi repair is made that this will happen again.</div></div> Before I retired, I was a journeyman machinist for over 25 years. I can assure you there is nothing wrong with repairing the bellcranks as described on my website if done properly. I expect the repair I did on mine to last longer than the rest of the car.

You will soon find that being ticked will not help with problems. Learning how to work on your car will.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Ronnie</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Barney can be contacted at: barney@texas.net

Click here for info about Kingsley's bellcrank kits.

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I just want this fixed and not have to be concerned if a quasi repair is made that this will happen again.</div></div> Before I retired, I was a journeyman machinist for over 25 years. I can assure you there is nothing wrong with repairing the bellcranks as described on my website if done properly. I expect the repair I did on mine to last longer than the rest of the car.

You will soon find that being ticked will not help with problems. Learning how to work on your car will. </div></div>

Thanks Ronnie. I spoke with Mr. Baker (great guy - we live about 20 minutes apart). He'll send me the items that I need.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Greg Ross

First time I repaired my arms I used good quality industrial epoxy (the kind that can be used to repair running surfaces in engines) Let it cure and then filed/ fitted them to the shaft. Worked for years.

Sorry Barney/ "ditto" Kingsley

After the repair I still had a sluggish cover on one side. dismantled it again, took the motor apart and found one of the field magnets in the case was loose and binding things up a bit. Cleaned it up and epoxied it back in place. No problem!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...