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Guest Richard D

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Guest Richard D

When I was looking at the Reatta before I bought it last week I checked the for rust under the doors, trunk lip, under the car, all the usual places. Today when I was replacing the hood supports I notice that the battery tray has some holes rusted through. It is hot and I did not feel like pulling the battery, is the tray welded in or bolted in? Are the trays hard to find?

Thank's Again to all,

Richard

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Tray is welded in. Jim Finn may have a good one but in the meantime you need to neutralize the rust which may have been caused by a leaking battery. Hopefully metal panel and the frame rail under the tray is in good shape.

I had the same issue on the white car and removed the old tray with a grinder, treated and painted the entire surface, and mounted a new plastic tray from FLAPS as a temporary measure. The plastic tray is about an inch closer to the engine to put more of the weight over the frame rail. I have a good tray removed from a different Reatta but it will need to be welded in.

Hot ? Just wait a month grin.gif

post-31022-143138066951_thumb.jpg

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Guest Richard D

The hold down side is still solid, no damage to frame rail, just battery tray. I do have some of that rust converter that I will put on after I wash the area with baking soda and water. I have a friend who is an amazing welder and I will ask him to put the "new" one in.

Thank's,

Richard.

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Guest spamseptictank

Sorry to go off topic. May the moderators forgive me.

Padgett, I noticed that you have a 3800 Series II coil set-up in the underhood photo of your Reatta. Could you please detail the parts and process you used to accomplish this and any improvements or problems you ran into? I have an 89 coupe.

I guess a new post would keep the mods happy.

Thanks.

Dave

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Guest Greg Ross

Have a look at Padgetts' Web home "www.6007.us", go to "Cars, musings and misc", them click on "Replacing the Magnavox Ignition with a Delco Unit" you'll find he has covered this alteration in depth.

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Really, the Delco ignition was used on all GM 3800s starting with the Reatta in 1991 and continuing through the end of the 3800 (the base plate changed in 1995 but the expensive bits stayed the same).

Watch out for the short-lived 3300 because it used a different system that looks identical but the ICM connector will not fit.

The 1992 TranSport (with 3800) aka "Dustbuster" became a baseline because that was my original donor (and still have it).

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I have never had a rust problem on a Reatta battery tray but have repaired other cars with fiberglass and resin.

If you do not have access to a welder, fiberglass is a good solution.

You must start with a clean battery tray and remove all the rust. mix a batch of resin and paint the entire tray with the clear resin, this helps seal the metal and give a good base for any fiberglass repair needed. With the resin still liquid, add any fiberglass mat that you need.

If you have a chunk of battery tray rusted away, make a patch piece..... with wax paper on a flat surface. lay down a piece(s) of glass mat the size of the repair.

coat it with resin and let it dry. Now you have a FLAT piece of fiberglass with which to repair the hole/damage.

with tin snips or a saw, you can cut the repair piece of fiberglass to fit the damaged area.

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When I was looking at the Reatta before I bought it last week I checked the for rust under the doors, trunk lip, under the car, all the usual places. Today when I was replacing the hood supports I notice that the battery tray has some holes rusted through.

.mines rusted into two pieces.the part with the clamp fell off

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