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1956 brake reservoir won't stop leaking


Pete Phillips

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Restoring a 1956 Roadmaster with power brakes. When I rubbed some steel wool across the bottom of the filler tube to clean the outside of it, brake fluid began to leak from the bottom of the tube where it meets the master cylinder/booster. I have now unbolted the filler tube from the rest of the assembly (two bolts hold it in place), cleaned it, and reassembled it, but it will not stop leaking at the joint. I have tried paper gaskets, cork gaskets (brake fluid ruins them after a few hours, I learned), blue silicon gasket maker out of a tube, and even no gasket at all--just metal to metal. It appears to be an aluminum tube and housing. NOTHING I do will stop the leak. Has anyone else ever encountered this problem? I've even tried another filler tube from a 1956 Roadmaster parts car, thinking one might be warped. No change. It still leaks brake fluid. I've cleaned both surfaces, so it is not dirt or some foreign particle. I'm at my wit's end. Suggestions?

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

Sherman, Texas

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Guest simplyconnected

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Pete Phillips</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I have tried ...blue silicon gasket maker out of a tube... </div></div>

OMG Pete, where do I start?

Silicone and DOT-3 DO NOT MIX. DOT-3 is glycol-based, which means, keep all petroleum products, silicone, and water FAR away.

I know you're trying everything you can, but you have to follow the rules. All those gasket materials you mentioned, have you ever seen them on a brake system? No. They use flare fittings on iron, aluminum, steel, brass, and neoprene & viton seals, and "O" rings.

Is that three "O" rings inside the flange?

56BrakeReservoirLeak.jpg

It looks like the whole thing is packed with snot. Get it ALL out.

If those are in fact "O" rings, use a pick to remove them. Check for splits in the old "O" rings.

Check the surface with a fine flat file. Go easy. If you have any obstructions, they will show up. Do both mating surfaces, then replace the "O" rings with new. Keep it wet with fresh DOT-3 and bolt back together. This is aluminum, so don't over-tighten or it will leak. The seal is not caused by tightness, but by the "O" ring seats. Your local auto parts store should have plenty of "O" rings. They're cheap.

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Pete, its not foolishness, its the forest through the trees thing. Been there done that, and still do it!! I think we all have.

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Guest simplyconnected

Pete,

I have noticed several members here, (VERY knowledgeable restorers who consistently give sound advice); when it comes to problems of THEIR OWN, somehow emotions take over and they can't see the forest for the trees. It's happened to me, too.

I am truly honored to help you, and I thank this forum for hosting this opportunity (for both of us).

I am so glad your problems were that simple and the 'fix' was inexpensive for you. BTW Pete, it was YOUR picture that showed the answer. Thanks for posting a good quality, clear picture.

- Dave

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> they can't see the forest for the trees. It's happened to me, too.

</div></div>

Yup! I spent ALL DAY yesterday trying to put the fuel filler door back on the Chrysler. The damn thing would not fit correctly no matter how I shimmed or jiggered this or that.

I even spent 2 hours round trip to a junk yard trying to get a clue.

Finally after THINKING about it I realized that one side of the hinge had gotted very slightly out of whack and the geometry of it opening multiplied the error.

A two minute adjustment fixed the problem.......Bob

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Quote:</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> but you aren't a Junkyard Dog</div></div>

One yard I visit doesn't have a dog he has sheep and goats. They do a fantastic job of keeping the grass and weeds trimmed but you gotta watch out for little do-do mines.

Rebuilding the master cylinder today. The top has a sheet metal baffle spot welded on its under side as part of the vent. The baffle needs to be removed to clean the blast beads blown under it.

2 Hours to get the baffle out, clean, re attatch and paint. No wonder it costs a fortune to have a car restored.......Bob

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