1929 Dodge DA6

[Bob Zetnick]

Here are the windwing photos you asked for...hope it helps.

[keiser31]

I have personally never seen the mohair used on the headliner of any DB. In my experience, the seats and door panels would be all mohair (or all broadcloth) with a lighter, but tough material on the headliner. I have only seen a monotone headliner color like tan or beige and never with a pattern (unless in very custom upscale cars). That does not mean they did not have variations, but I have seen an awful lot of these cars. Just thought I would add another 2 cents worth. John

[Bob Zetnick]

John, I don't know why mine would be different. Like I told Jason I have seen different variations on the seats and even the upper door panel trim for '29 Dodges. Maybe there is someone here that has another mohair headliner?

[Guest 1930]

It can be confusing, I have many pict. of what appear to be original DA interiors and there appears to also be the same mohair headliner you describe so I dont doubt what you say for an instant, just trying to find some definitives, thanks again Bob

[Guest 1930]

Hi Bob, just noticed you pict. of the manifold pieces, looks like you have alot of the parts, look on your manifold and you may find the cast piece, I will look thru my stuff tomm and see what I have

[Guest 1930]

Hi Bob, just noticed you pict. of the manifold pieces, looks like you have alot of the parts, look on your manifold and you may find the cast piece, I will look thru my stuff tomm and see what I have

Also you say ....The serial number on the floorboard plate is DA56166 and it looks like the delivery date was May 20, 1929 from what I can tell.....plate is somewhat rusty. The body number is 43088.

you give a delivery date and then you say plate is somewhat rusty, I did not know these plates had a delivery date written on them?? Also what do you mean exactely by Body #, where are you finding this?

One other thing, cant read clearly your head #, I see the 210100 but the first set of # is unclear, looks like you are doing a nice job of cleaning everything up though.

What is the # stamped into your exhaust manifold also, thanks

[Bob Zetnick]

Jason, I got that delivery date off of the plate on the slanted front floorboard.....it is rusty... I may be wrong, but that looks like what it says...? A poster, idrjoe-sandiego asked for the body number....there is a 'Budd' plate on the firewall that is unreadable to me....I was going to make a rubbing and then noticed a large number pressed in the upper firewall...I assume a body number....? Sorry, if I am incorrect in these things..a lot of this is new to me.

[Bob Zetnick]

Jason, yeah that other number on the head is hard to read; it reads 28028... I'll have to get the manifold # tomorrow

[idrjoe_sandiego]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob Zetnick</div><div class="ubbcode-body"> idrjoe-sandiego asked for the body number....there is a 'Budd' plate on the firewall that is unreadable to me....I was going to make a rubbing and then noticed a large number pressed in the upper firewall...I assume a body number....? Sorry, if I am incorrect in these things..a lot of this is new to me.</div></div>

Bob, yes this is the body # I was speaking of. Any chance you have the engine # (found on the right rear machined surface where the manifold bolts on-you have to look beneath the manifold at the very rear of the engine- # is stamped in about 1/2" tall. # should start with H xxx-xxx)

Also, looks like Jason may have your replacement bumper medallions.

Thanks, Joe

[Guest 1930]

Bob, dont know if you noticed it or not but I asked you to see if you have the other cast part that is prob. still in your manifold, if you let me know this than I can try and find some other pieces.

Joe this # that you are talking about being stamped in the firewall, I have another pict. of another DA with a # stamped directely in the firewall just to the left of Budd body tag and up a little bit if you were standing facing the firewall, do you think this is the same # that I started a thread of data plates from. Do you think these are the same # as the tags only stamped into firewall on earlier editions?

[Bob Zetnick]

Joe, my engine number is H130-995, hope that helps. I guess the photo I shot of the head is a part number?

As far as my bumpers go there is a homemade set at the rear which will work, but they don't have the convex shape on the face...just flat steel which was chrome-plated....so looking for a set of those.

On the front bumper the second owner of my car said that he had a front end collision with a 1970 Cadillac in 1970. He told me proudly that the accident totaled the Cadillac and only broke the front bumper bar on the Dodge.(don't know if true, but made for a good story) It was welded back in place and a bolt welded in the center. From previous blogs I've seen the part that actually holds the bumpers in place at the front(and not very well) is the medallion backing plate. I did not know that my car came with the medallions I've seen, but apparently it did have them at one time. I've got rework on those bumpers to do before the medallions; I have seen the entries in these discussion forums and have copied them along with the photos for my notebook. If you have any info about where to obtain rear bumpers /medallions or by chance have them I am greatly interested.

Jason, sorry, guess I missed your question; on the front manifold end there is a cast piece that is bolted to the manifold w/ 2 hex head nuts. At the center where it looks like the heat control pivoted there is another hex head bolt filling the hole. The photo I listed last week shows 4 pieces of stuff in my parts box....the one on the far right looked promising and maybe another piece...again, if you have correct parts for this I am interested.

Lastly, just want to thank all the posters here that are helping me. I am no mechanic or car restoration expert; I just like cars of this era and appreciate all the information in doing things correctly.

[keiser31]

The story about totaling the Cadillac is more than likely true. I was coming home from work one rainy night in my original 1931 Dodge coupe when I was rear-ended by a 1967 Chevrolet Impala. The force of the slam pushed my bumperettes akimbo and broke the spare tire rack (which took me years to finally remanufacture from original pieces that I finally found). The Chevy Impala had the headlamps and bumper caved in half of the way through his engine......totaled!!! I drove off with my broken spare tire rack and the Chevy went directly to the wrecking yard. I believe the story about the Cadillac.

[idrjoe_sandiego]

When you compare a Dodge to for instance a Ford of the same vintage, there is just so much more metal, it's no wonder the modern iron loses!

Bob, thanks. I'll add your data points to my (small) collection. It looks like from the #'s you gave me,it is unlikely that your car has the original engine (no big deal in my book anyway). Either that or the VIN on the toeplate has been swapped. You'll need to check the VIN stamped into the right side of the frame rail if you care. The VIN DA56166 is in about the middle of production and the Engine # H130-995 is near the end.

IMHO, there is always so much hoopla about #'s matching cars esp. muscle cars. When you can rent an original GM Engine ID# stamp for about $100, and restamp to whatever # you want,the matching # thing is BS. Buyer Beware!

What type of rear bumper are you seeking?

[Bob Zetnick]

I've always heard these old cars were tough! Sounds like you've had your car awhile.....great you've hung onto it.

[Bob Zetnick]

Interesting about the possible engine swap.....hmmm....yeah, I'd like to check the frame number.....just the history to me is interesting.

The rear bumpers I'm looking for are the bumperettes as the car has the spare tire in the rear.....don't know of any other info. than that. Thanks.

[keiser31]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob Zetnick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I've always heard these old cars were tough! Sounds like you've had your car awhile.....great you've hung onto it.</div></div>

Bob...My dad bought "my 1st" 1931 Dodge in 1959 when I was 7 years old. I got it from him when I was 15 years old. I had wanted it since I was 13. When I got it, there was a pair of front face bars for the bumper, but no "full length" bracket. It did have the "C" shaped bracket that goes behind the full length bracket, so I was good there. Luckily, I had the complete rear bumper setup. Your car has horizontal rear bumperettes with no "rise", right? Just 2, straight across, parallel slightly rounded face bars? Here is a 1930 DD6 rear shot. John

[Bob Zetnick]

John, yes those are the type / style of rear bumpers that were original to my car...I've seen the ones with "the rise" and mine are horizontal all the way across.

Wow, what a beautiful car you have! It's great you have family history with it too.

[keiser31]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bob Zetnick</div><div class="ubbcode-body">John, yes those are the type / style of rear bumpers that were original to my car...I've seen the ones with "the rise" and mine are horizontal all the way across.

Wow, what a beautiful car you have! It's great you have family history with it too.</div></div>

First let me clarify something. The car pictured above without the taillights is my friend, Roger's 1930 DD6 coupe. His car is immaculately restored to perfection.

My cars are 1931 DH6s and have the bumperettes as pictured below. The car below is one of my cars and it needs a complete restoration. It is a "driver" right now, but looks good in the rain at night.

[Bob Zetnick]

John, I don't know the difference between a DD6 and a DH6. Your car that "needs complete restoration" and is a "driver" looks very beautiful to me. My car isn't even a "driver" at this point and I'd be proud to have a car in as good condition as you show. BTW I'm not aiming at a 100 pt. car as I know my limitations and finances...I will do as well as I can, but I do want a car that's a "driver" without worrying about the inevitable nicks, scratches and wear......what's the point if you can't drive it?

[keiser31]

Bob....I agree...what's the point if you don't drive it and enjoy it fully. So...if your bumpers are like the ones on the car without taillights...straight across, I will ask a guy to see if he has any.

[Bob Zetnick]

Thanks, John....last time I saw the bumpers I need for sale was on Ebay 2 years ago and I lost the auction.

[idrjoe_sandiego]

John- very nice car--but what's up with the dual exhaust??

[Guest 1930]

John failed to mention that he has a 352 hemi with a custom built cross ram intake with dual demons on top under the hood. The exhaust Joe helps this sort of motor breath better. Cmon catch up with us

And I have driven my Dodge one day since I have owned but I guarantee that I enjoy it every bit as much as you guys that drive your cars, I enjoy holding it, caresssing it, felling its lines and contours and the warm feeling of its differential lube oozing between my fingers. HAH

[Bob Zetnick]

That brought a grin first thing Sunday morning!

[Bob Zetnick]

Joe, I tried looking for the VIN at the right frame rail and didn't see a number.....is it near the engine, rear end or under the floorboards? I was using a small flashlight....maybe I just missed it. Thanks.

[keiser31]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: idrjoe_sandiego</div><div class="ubbcode-body">John- very nice car--but what's up with the dual exhaust??</div></div>

More than one guy has followed me home to ask about my dual exhaust. A previous owner had a cobbled up, brazed on dual exhaust manifold system on the car when I got it. It finally fell apart at the brazing and I returned the system to original, but didn't want to cut off the "custom" extra pipe in case I run across a good split manifold that will fit my car. The car also had a downdraft carburetor setup on it and I returned that part of the system back to as original. I get more looks and questions with that extra pipe!! Then I show them the all original engine and they are amazed.

[Guest 1930]

Bob I looked into your parts today and just about had given up when I found these in the wrong bag, anyway from your picture above and relooking at everything you have you dont seem to need any of my parts as the only thing you are missing would be the spring and that can be had at Ace hardware, I have attached here my spare stuff but again you have all this. BTW the object dead center is part of the headlight switch if memeory serves me amd the upper left is one of the brackets that hold one of the linkage cables, I think it may hold the heat riser cable but without looking at my car I may be wrong.

You mentioned in another post that you had the part that goes into manifold, as you can see from my pict. of spare part this is the part I seem to find breaks easliy so carefull removing it, if you need better pict. of how it all goes together I can provide those.

[idrjoe_sandiego]

Bob, the Frame Rail VIN is just behind the "dogbone" on the right side of the vehicle. It is also on the top of the frame rail at the same location, but that is only seen with the body off the frame. The toeboard VIN and the frame rail VIN should match. See photos. You'll probably have to get a wire brush and scrub off some dirt/paint. Then get your flashlight, often the stampings are not very deep.

[1929Chrysler]

I'm a little late to the discussion, But I'll comment on Keiser31's point earlier when he pointed out that the light switch (clum switch)is hard to find.. I searched for YEARS for a clum switch on my '29 Chrysler. It was very difficult to find one, but FINALLY after years of searching I found one!! Don't you know it, less than a week after I found my new clum switch, i decided to take out the front seat. Under neath was a brand new NOS clum switch still in it's box!!What luck is that?!! Now I have a spare!!

Dan

[keiser31]

1930 is correct....the center part with the bent tab in the first photo of parts laid out fits at the base of the steering column with the tab pointing toward the clum light switch and below the center of the column. It keeps the switch from turning when you use the light controls.

[keiser31]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 1929Chrysler</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I'm a little late to the discussion, But I'll comment on Keiser31's point earlier when he pointed out that the light switch (clum switch)is hard to find.. I searched for YEARS for a clum switch on my '29 Chrysler. It was very difficult to find one, but FINALLY after years of searching I found one!! Don't you know it, less than a week after I found my new clum switch, i decided to take out the front seat. Under neath was a brand new NOS clum switch still in it's box!!What luck is that?!! Now I have a spare!!

Dan</div></div>

Dan...that is so awesome to find a new clum switch! They are famous for filling up with grease from the steering column and crapping out.

[Guest 1930]

Hello Bob, I am hoping you might find the time for further clarification on a couple of things, I would like if at all possible a picture of where it is that you see the build date of your car, you mention the tag is rusty, so I might not be able to see it in picture but if you could give me a picture of what tag and where on the tag you see this. Also if you dont mind can you give me the #s off your exhaust manifold, should be a 21043 then another # and an x. Also I could really use a pict. if at all possible of the door panel retainers, I know you have posted a drawing but I have never seen this type and I may have the wrong type in my car but a pict. would give me a better idea of what you are trying to describe. If at all possible a pict. of the body # on your firewall with its location would be great. I posted a response to your heat riser parts inquiry and maybe you have missed it, thanks....Jason

[RPZ]

Jason, I'm at work right now...I'll try tomorrow or Wed (today will be a long work day)when I have some time to get to the parts. See Joe's photo above of the tag / plate as it's in better shape than mine...it shows the "delivered" part just below the VIN #...mine also has the small tag below that Joe shows. If you are looking for the "build date" I looked at a site about a year ago (may have been the DB club, can't remember)where you looked at a list of VIN #'s and compared it to a list of dates; mine worked out to April, 1929.

I just saw your post on the heat regulator. Yeah, 2 of the parts I have look like yours. I don't have the little cable retainer that you show, but I may have a spare or could make one easily. I'm not sure that my manifold end plate looks like yours or that the assembly you show is in my manifold.....I'll check tomorrow along with your other requests when I get home from work.

thanks, have a good day.

[Guest 1930]

Yes I also have the serial # plate that Joe shows but did not know that there was any indication of a build date on their. I guess mine is less readable than yours, I will have to look at some spares I have been given. I have the info on how to match your serial # with corresponding data but just did not know that the actaul build date can be seen on the metal tag. Thanks

[RPZ]

Well, it's a 'delivery date' vs. a 'build date'. I have seen a reprodution plate at Myers Early Dodge you can view online and show you what it looks like....I am considering getting one of those, but keeping the old one beneath the front seat....the little 'Dodge Brothers Six' plate below the larger plate I haven't seen a repro of.

[Guest 1930]

I have a couple of these plates and see no # where it should be I guess, they stamped serial # and were evidently supposed to mark the other #s somehow but maybe it was not done sometimes or it just wears away. I also think its interesting that some of these plates I have collected (from people rodding their cars ) are black and some blue background. Mine is the blue background on both larger and smaller plate and it might again have something to do with when car was produced.

[Bob Zetnick]

Jason, had a little time here at the house. Here are a few shots of my manifold. I took an interior shot where the heat regulator should be, but isn't. The number on my manifold looks like '210403 6 X' ...the 3 and 6 were real rusty.....I'm 99% sure on the 3, but the 6 could be an 8....but in strong light that looks like the number. Almost afraid to mess with the end plate as I'm sure it's really rusty. Also, the interior is real rusty.....I had an oily rust in there and figured out that the head gasket was in bad shape, so water must have mixed with the oil to an extant. Anyway, got most of the rust out, but a few flakes fall out when I move it....do you think a round bristle / wire brush would take it all out?... only thing I could think of.

[Bob Zetnick]

Jason, Here is the body # photo on the upper center of the firewall to the left of the Budd body plate.

[Bob Zetnick]

Jason, here are photos of the door panel retainer clips on my car. Glad you asked for a photo as they are a little different than my sketch....they have a bronze sort of color, so they may be brass...hope this helps...I think Joe wanted a look at these as well.

[Bob Zetnick]

Thanks Joe for giving me the info. I looked at the car and I think my fender is covering it....haven't gotten to the point of taking the fenders off.....I am very curious though and when I get to that point I'll post what I find.