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F.S. 90 CHRYSLER TC, V6 AUTO


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Hello 29710;

Welcome to the form. There are a lot of folks who views these pages who have extensive knowledge about the TC. They have help me increase my knowledge on how to maintain and keep my TC on the road. Had it not been for their expertise and sound advice I am afraid I would have given up and sold my 89 TC.

Since it only 1652 hrs in AR I am sure members will start replying to your post.

Cheers,

Bob Steele

TC America

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Clayton;

How far do you live from Jacksonville, AR?

Reason for asking is that my neighbor, when I lived in Cabot, is a certified Chrysler technician who used to work on the TCs and other 1989-1998 Chrysler products. He now runs his own repair shop in Jacksonville AR.

If you would be interested in having your car worked on in Jacksonville please send me an email to majmx@aol.com

Cheers,

Bob Steele

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Bob, Jacksonville is only a few miles from Cabot. Since I talked with you last, I ran power direct to my brake motor, don't run, dosn't make sound. The guy I bought this car from told me he put on a brake booster, I'm not sure what he did. Chrysler dealer said they could not get parts for brakes, maybe they didn't want to work on them.

A new question for you, under bottom side of air breather, there are two large hoses, one goes to the valve cover, the other no where, is this true?

P.S., This car is really to nice for someone not to buy for about $3000 and fix, I could e-mail some pictures if anybody is interested.

Thanks for everybodys input so far, ClaytonC

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Hello Bob & Lou, I'm taking car to transmission shop monday to see whats wrong with transmission and Have it repaired, may need overhaul, but I'm going to do it.

Lou, do you have ABS fuse & relay housing & wiring cable in the car you are parting out?

Regards, ClaytonC

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Hello, Lou if you read this, I have transmission question for you or someone, my trans. was in "limp mode", took to shop, they could not get code at blue conn., they said it told them to go to the conn. by the battery box, which is the engine conn. I think, still no code. They convinced me my trans. needed repair, they pulled trans. said reverse was out, burned up, nothing but metal to metal left. My question is would my trans. been making some noise or slipping, but nothing before it went into "limp mode", it was shifting fine until went into "limp mode", I feel like I may be getting ripped off.

Regards'

Clayton

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Hi Clayton,

That's a tough question, The A 604 trans is an all electronic control trans. that's why it has it's own computer control box. It is also one of the most troublesome transmissions that were built in later years. Because the electronic control is programed to find your driving habits and adjust the trans. operation according to your driving habits. It can work eratically until you have driven it often enough in a short period of time to find and adjust to these habits. This is especially prone to happen after extended lay-up.. I do not know if your trans was, or is just in need of a good run, or if it really was worn out. If a Transmission specialty repair shop could not read the TCM (Transmission Control Module)at the transmission module reader plug I never would allow them to do any further work for me. They have to be experienced and familiar enough to know if you shut the car off you sometimes loose the code. When you have the problem you must plug in without turning off the key..

I have a '91 with 24,000 miles on it. over a 3 month period of time it went into Limp mode about 10 times. Each time it went into limp mode I pulled off the road to the shoulder, turned off the key waited 5 min. and restarted then drove away. most times it drove fine. sometimes it took more than one restart procedure before it ran correctly. I got tired of fooling around. Had my local Chrysler dealer put in a Chrysler replacement with a new TCM. It has all the upgrades and now has the new 41TE designation. Works fine. Has a 3 year Chrysler warranty. good all over the country. They gave me a special discount. it wound up costing $200.00 more than the local Transmission shop wanted. that would naturally been without the chrysler guarantee. The most I could get out of them was a 1 year guarantee

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Lou, thanks for your input, this car sat for about a year, then was driven about 90 miles across state, then I bought it about 3 weeks later and I've only driven it about 100 miles before it broke, transmission and brakes the very same day. It's a little late to change shops, they already have it tore down, I really do have a problem believing my reverse is burned out, I feel certain I've chosen wrong shop, it's a shame, because this is a very sharp car.

Thanks again,

Clayton Cleveland

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Clayton<

I suggest you join TC America and get the back issues of the newsletter. Quarterly there is a newsletter with mechanical repair tips etc. by Hemi Andersen the real Dr. TC and others that know more about these cars than I do.All those back issues for all those tears have written up more than once every problem that our TCs are famous for, or maybe infamous. The brakes are very different than almost any other US car. and diagnosis of problems can be very problematical for someone that is unfamiliar with them. There is also en electronic (computer) control for the brakes, and also a "reader" for them. When I say be careful I mean be careful. When they work correctly they are probably the best brakes you can have, and they do work correctly most of the time. They are just strange, and almost unrepairable to those that do not understand them. Good Luck, Lou

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H Clayton,

Here is a copy of a post I made on another TC Forum. It may give you more info.

Lets start wit a complete understanding of the control:

The Trans is completely electronic controlled thru a "Computer" TCM or

Transmission Control Module. Within the "program" is a system that reads your

driving habits and then adjusts the transmission operation accordingly. There is evem a written driving procedure that when followed sets this transmission to driver friendly action.. When we Lay-up our cars for any length of time it

screws up the auto adjust mode. If the incorrect transmission fluid is ever put

in the trans. will not act correctly. The car needs almost a 100 mile run before it will really act correctly. In fact it is hard for these transmissions to act correctly unless it is run as a daily driver. There is also the problem that develops in low voltage control units when not used. They loose contact or at least partial contact from dampness infiltration etc. when not used continiously. The best information on these A604 Transmissions is an Alpar Forum. Go To: http://www.allpar.com/fix/trans.html scan down the page to Transmission section and start reading. I think the second subject heading is the drive procedure for programing.

Good Luck, Lou

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  • 4 weeks later...

Hello Anybody:

Having trouble finding CV joint axle for my 90 TC, right side, we've tried several, none work. Probably because I don't know what I'm doing, nor the transmission shop. The cardone 60-3252 is way to long. My car is V6 auto, Chrysler says mine needs to be sent in be repaired, need help.

Thanks,

ClaytonC

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Hey Clayton,

Did you Google "Axle shaft", "1/2 Shaft", "CV Shaft". Drive Shaft. All for Chrysler TC or Chrysler Maserati.?????

AJUSA.com , DiscountAutoParts.com , AutoPartsWarehouse.com , InnerAuto.com . they all have them they are exact replacements with correct tone wheel. these are all the same as dodge daytona etc. the only difference is the tone wheel. I bought 6 of them in the last 2 years all were correct they vary in price from about $85.00 to 100.00 with no shipping and a core charge that is refunded in about 1 month. Good Luck, Lou

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Hello Lou,

This may be nothing new to guys who know what is going on, what was messing me up is that I found out my car has the Turbo axle set up in it. Thats why the normal listed axle was to long. With the Turbo set up, I've been told both right & left axles are the same length, this what my repair says also.

A friend of mine in Tulsa who has repaired cv axles for years told me the same thing. Said I could remove Turbo stub shaft and carrier bearing and use the longer axle that everybody says will fit my car if I wanted to.

Thanks for all of your input,

Clayton

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Hello Anybody:

I took the hard top off for the first time since I've had this car, the top and back glass look absolutely new. Every thing in the top storage area looks new, but the pull down motor does not make a sound. What is the best way to tell if motor will run without taking the unit out.

Thanks,

ClaytonC

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Use 3 light (14 or 16 ga.)jumpers. 1 from the negitive battery post. Connect that to the end of 1 of the 5 mounting studs. connect the 2nd one to the grounding lug that is riveted to the bracket in the middle on the bottom, to ground. Connect the 3rd one to the positive battery post. Disconnect the wire connector going to the pull down assembly, and jump it (Touch it to the wire connector). That will bypass all Car wiring and switches. Good Luck, Lou

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I'm sorry I did not see that answer you posted in reference to the CV 1/2 shaft, until just now. DON"T DO IT.. That short shaft is mounted using a carrier bearing mounted to tha engine.That design is referred to as a "Jack Shaft". Those type things are done to prevent vibration and premature wear-out of the CV joints. I have 1 each of the TC models. Very early '89, later '89 16v (IMproved suspension) '91 V6, I also had 2 '90 V6s. all had the "Jack Shaft" on the right side. That means they all had the equal length shafts. So no distinguishing difference between my Turbos and naturally aspirated

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