TexasJohn55 Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 (edited) uhhh... really???i suppose "ball bearing(s)" never fail due to out of round alignment issues?The ball bearing doesn't spin except after the rubber fails, then the outer member can rotate appx 1/4 turn until the stop tabs on the castings contact and drive the outer member mechanically to maintain belt drive for accessories. The mechanical drive after failure is what makes them knock. If the bearing fails the pulley will wobble which will not affect the sensor, haven't seen that. It has become obvious that you have never held one of these failed dampers in your hands to see how they are made, I have. Edited March 17, 2014 by TexasJohn55 (see edit history) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 the only pic i could find. it was worse 180 degrees in the front and much worse in the rear rubber.ok, i defer to your wisdom on the subject. the wobble, noise and bad sensor that "killed" the vehicle wasn't due to this causal factor? and the bearing made it not wobble?when other forum members later replaced their belt tensioner and then discovered it the crank balancer/sensor was the problem? like i said, you are probably right. i'm done here... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest landtortise Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Balancer seems very solid no noticeable cracks wear or wobble. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 Ronnie thanks for the link ran thru the tests last night and it appears that I need a crank sensor. I never did get the light to flash when rolling it over. I didn't have access to an led light like in the link so I used a 194 marker light socket and bulb and some aligator clips. I'll be changing the cranks sensor tomorrow and will let you know id it gets me back in business. Anyone have any secrets or tips on that job?You should get the proper LED described in the tutorial to do your testing. The signal from the crank sensor is such a short duration that I doubt the bulb has time to respond making your test invalid. Instructions for making the LED tester are on my website. The cost to make it is less than a good cup of coffee. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest landtortise Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 DUALLY NOTED RONNIE. THANKS. I'LL PICK ONE UP AT WORK TONIGHT. BASICALLY JUST AN LED IN DASH INDICATOR LIGHT CORRECT? SORRY FOR THE CAPS Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 17, 2014 Share Posted March 17, 2014 DUALLY NOTED RONNIE. THANKS. I'LL PICK ONE UP AT WORK TONIGHT. BASICALLY JUST AN LED IN DASH INDICATOR LIGHT CORRECT? SORRY FOR THE CAPS12 volt automotive type LED with built in resistor (Radio Shack part #276-0270) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest landtortise Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Well a little update checked my crank sensor gap again ran thru Ronnie's diagnostic again put everything back together and she fired up. Great had a plug wire crossed shut it off fixed that and fired it up again. Did that about 4 times shut it off after letting it run a bit and now nothing no spark again. What the hell. Any thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Mc_Reatta Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Could be a heat related failure of the ICM or CPS or a bad connection. Need to repeat the CPS test with the LED when it's not sparking, and depending on the outcome, replace the CPS, or try a different ICM after wiggling all the wires and connectors trying to sort out any issues with them first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest landtortise Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 i am going to ohm my wiring out tonight. I have a feeling I have a bad wire coming from that cps to the module it's the only one that seems to fail when i loose spark. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted March 19, 2014 Share Posted March 19, 2014 Some time ago I had an intermittent problem with my AC compressor. It would occasionally stop working. To get it working again all I had to do was tap the connector with a stick or other long object and the comp. would kick in again. I replaced the connector pigtail and the problem went away.John F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 Like this ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest landtortise Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 dang that balancer is messed up. Mine is in good shape. I came to a crossroad in the problem last night. I wiggled the wires at the crank sensor and bam she fired up. So now what my employee price at orielly's is still $35 for the connector and I hace to splice it in not a huge fan of hacking up wiring harnesses. or Is there a way to clean it and try it again. thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machiner 55 Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 LT,You could try contact cleaner on the male and female parts or go to a salvage yard and find a pigtail from a similar vintage 3800 and splice it in. Not sure what model years us that same connector.John F. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
padgett Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I recall from somewhere that 90-on used a short stub harness for the front of the engine (ICM, CPS, Cam Sensor, etc), might find one at a yard. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest landtortise Posted March 20, 2014 Share Posted March 20, 2014 I had a good mechanic friend of mine tell me the same thing any way to substantiate this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest landtortise Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 So a final update on my park ave. yes there is a stub harness that connect to the main behind the ps pump it contains the cam sensor CPS and ignition module connectors. This was my problem I pulled it out to repair the crank wire when I did I found bare wires and the whole works I would post pics of my harness if I could figure out how. Anyway replaced the harness and she runs great now drove it about 75 miles today. Thanks for all the help Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ronnie Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 So a final update on my park ave. yes there is a stub harness that connect to the main behind the ps pump it contains the cam sensor CPS and ignition module connectors. This was my problem I pulled it out to repair the crank wire when I did I found bare wires and the whole works I would post pics of my harness if I could figure out how. Anyway replaced the harness and she runs great now drove it about 75 miles today. Thanks for all the helpHow to post pictures here on the forum:Click the button in the editor menu that looks like a picture of a tree. A box will popup that says "Select Image". Click the button at the bottom of the box that says "Select Files". Another box will popup that allows you to find files on your computer. Navigate to your picture on your hard drive, click it once to select it, and click the "Open" button. Click the "Upload Files" button. In a few seconds the popup box will close and your photo will appear in your post. Hope this helps. Don't tell me you're on a damn phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Corvanti Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 thanks for the "outcome" update.:cool: it really helps folks with similar problems with something to check out without throwing unneeded parts at it!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest landtortise Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Yeah I'm on my phone . Lol I'll see if I can get some pics up on Monday while I'm at work. Yes I like to give a final update if I find my problem just for that reason. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-a-n-i-e-l Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 sorry I do not feel like reading all the posts and know that the members here have most likely covered the basics. So I did search for chain and timing. You see where this is going..... Have you looked at your timing chain? (no matter how unlikely) It is the only thing that may not have been mentions by the members here and would definitively cause a crank no start. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now