292 for a '59 Galaxie

[simplyconnected 0]

This engine was an "unknown" when I bought it. Now, I'm tearing it down. It has typical baked oil and crud, cylinder walls are smooth and shiny with a profound ridge that stops my nails. It looks like a major overhaul is in the offing, starting with .030" over.

Where's a good place to buy pistons, rings, bearings, oil pump rotors, a good ROLLER timing chain, and a master gasket set? I see lots of eBay stores, but am skeptical about their quality and prices.

Also, what's the best solvent for this, kerosene?:

I have my work cut out for me for the whole weekend, just cleaning and de-rusting everything in preparation for paint and plating. Any suggestions will be GREATLY appreciated.

Which works better, kerosene or mineral spirits? When I pull all those rocker arms off, I'd like to have all that crud softened, or gone. They look like, no oil could get through the small holes because they're blocked with crud. Thanks in advance.

Dave

[Bluesky636 0]

Try Egge Machine

http://www.parts123.com/parts123/yb.dll?parta~partsort

[simplyconnected 0]

Thanks Bill. I found a few "engine rebuild kits" and they have reasonable prices (like Kanter), but they never say what brands the parts are. From my experience, Clevite-77 bearings are well worth the extra money. Name brand rings and pistons are essential as are viton valve seals, unless I'm rebuilding to sell (which I'm not).

It looks like I will end up spending a few more bucks to get 'the good stuff'. One item I'm still looking for is, a 292 roller timing chain and some oil pump gears. - Dave

[Bluesky636 0]

You're welcome and good luck.

[simplyconnected 0]

<span style="font-size: 11pt">See those rocker arm shafts? Deep grooves appeared after disassembly. Dennis-Carpenter.com had new Ford-brand shafts for $17/ea.+ (a steal). The rocker arms have two tiny oil holes in each. All of the holes were so packed with dirt/varnish, I could hardly find them. It took four hours to clean all the rockers and assemble both shafts.

The block is in the machine shop being boiled and magnafluxed. It looks like they're boring/honing ~.040" off.</span>

<span style="font-size: 14pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">I would like some opinions</span>, if I should pop for new bronze valve guides for unleaded gas.</span> If I do, it's going to be expensive (I'll find out exactly how much). The original valves and guides are in very good shape. The roller timing set finally arrived.

My machine shop/engine rebuilder insists I replace the rod bolts. I'm good with that, but the best price I found for ARP bolts is $60+. I think that's too much at $3.75/ea. Who sells good con-rod bolts at a decent price? Melling?

I received the rebuild kit for the Cruise-o-matic transmission, so I'll be rebuilding that real soon as the weather is finally warming up here in Detroit.

[Bluesky636 0]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body"><span style="font-size: 11pt">See those rocker arm shafts? Deep grooves appeared after disassembly. Dennis-Carpenter.com had new Ford-brand shafts for $17/ea.+ (a steal). The rocker arms have two tiny oil holes in each. All of the holes were so packed with dirt/varnish, I could hardly find them. It took four hours to clean all the rockers and assemble both shafts.

The block is in the machine shop being boiled and magnafluxed. It looks like they're boring/honing ~.040" off.</span>

<span style="font-size: 14pt"><span style="font-weight: bold">I would like some opinions</span>, if I should pop for new bronze valve guides for unleaded gas.</span> If I do, it's going to be expensive (I'll find out exactly how much). The original valves and guides are in very good shape. The roller timing set finally arrived.

My machine shop/engine rebuilder insists I replace the rod bolts. I'm good with that, but the best price I found for ARP bolts is $60+. I think that's too much at $3.75/ea. Who sells good con-rod bolts at a decent price? Melling?

I received the rebuild kit for the Cruise-o-matic transmission, so I'll be rebuilding that real soon as the weather is finally warming up here in Detroit. </div></div>

How much are you going to be driving the car? If a lot, I would go with the bronze valve guides. If not, I think it has been shown that if an antique is used as it should be, unleaded gas is not a problem. Then again, as long as you are having work down, it would be cheaper to replace them now than to have a problem later and have to replace them.

You certainly can't go wrong with ARP. Again, it boils down to how you will use the car. If just a weekend cruiser, other rod bolts would be fine. If you are building a race engine, then ARP would be the way to go.

[simplyconnected 0]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Bill_Haegele</div><div class="ubbcode-body">

How much are you going to be driving the car? If a lot, I would go with the bronze valve guides. If not, I think it has been shown that if an antique is used as it should be, unleaded gas is not a problem. Then again, as long as you are having work done, it would be cheaper to replace them now than to have a problem later and have to replace them.

You certainly can't go wrong with ARP. Again, it boils down to how you will use the car. If just a weekend cruiser, other rod bolts would be fine. If you are building a race engine, then ARP would be the way to go.</div></div>

Thanks for your input, Bill. It would be futile to race this car. Y-blocks sound great, but I have two tons of weight (with a V-8 under 300 cubes):

My niece asked me to chauffer using this car for her wedding next October in Chicago. The trip is 300 miles each way from Det. I guess I'm talking myself into the bronze valve guides, but I still think ARP bolts cost too much.

I pulled the old pistons off the rods today. Cleaning, I noticed just one rod (and its cap) was plated in copper, but not under the bearing shells. In all my years... I've never seen a rod plated in anything before. This one went to #6 cylinder. All the full-floating wrist pins felt smooth and tight. All the rings had an end-gap of .100"-.200". One piston was just beginning to scuff, but they all looked clean. It was due for a major.

[Bluesky636 0]

Nice looking car.

Lots of Y-Block racers out there, but I was only going for the extreme reason to use ARP bolts. But you gotta admit, you won't ever have to worry about them breaking in your application! LOL

[DSpringer 3]

www.ford-y-block.com is a good resource for parts. I bought their aluminum valve covers for our boat engine and they don't leak oil, which the stamped steel ones did at the necessary uphill engine position.

We've run a '54 Y-block in the boat on unleaded regular with the original valve guides for 20 years without problems.

[simplyconnected 0]

WOW, is THAT SHARP!!! Is it a 312?

Thanks for the lead on parts, DSpringer.

[DSpringer 3]

No, we've been running a 272 from 59 until last year. Was looking for a 292 but had to settle for a '56 272. Next is to put on a 4 barrel.

Dave

[Bluesky636 0]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: DSpringer</div><div class="ubbcode-body">No, we've been running a 272 from 59 until last year. Was looking for a 292 but had to settle for a '56 272. Next is to put on a 4 barrel.

Dave </div></div>

It would be nice if you resized the photo. It is HUGE and cannot be seen in its entirety without scrolling around. I have a 22" monitor running at 1680x1050 pixels.

[simplyconnected 0]

Bill, it fits my screen perfectly. If you are in Internet Explorer, hold the control key down and tap the 'minus' key a couple times. To go back, hold 'control', and tap 'plus'. You may be zoomed-in too far. - Dave

[Bluesky636 0]

<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: simplyconnected</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Bill, it fits my screen perfectly. If you are in Internet Explorer, hold the control key down and tap the 'minus' key a couple times. To go back, hold 'control', and tap 'plus'. You may be zoomed-in too far. - Dave </div></div>

That won't work. I am at the native resolution for a 22" LCD monitor, 1680x1050. There is no zoom involved.

The picture itself is 2736x3648 pixels, and 1.8 Mbytes. Way too big. Just right click on the photo and select properties and you will see.

I have resized the photo to 720x960 pixels, 637 Kbytes.

[Bob Call 23]

I would go with Egge for a rebuild kit as they stock only quality parts and make their own pistons. They can rebuild your oil pump if it needs it. They have been in this business for nearly a century. I would be afraid that Kanter, or like vendors, would be selling Chinese made parts. If Egge doesn't stock them, Best brand gaskets are top quality but not cheap. Also www.rockauto.com stocks parts for older cars. Some parts are name brands.

Since kerosene is hard to find and usually very expensive I have switched to diesel fuel for a cleaning solvent. DO NOT USE GASOLINE FOR CLEANING.