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slow passenger side window.


Guest daveagain909

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Guest daveagain909

I posted this in the buy sell section by mistake earlier>>>

when using the passenger window it is very slow and then stops sometimes. after waiting a minute it starts working again. What do you think is wrong with it? does it need a new motor? or is it just a faulty switch? I opened door and greased the mechanism which improved it, but if I repeatedly go up and down it will stop and act as before(It acts like the circuit is overheating then resets). As for lubricating the window mechanism with door panel off, what exactly needs to be greased? just the mechanical arms and chanels or is there a channel that the window rides in itself?

have door still apart now and would appreciate any help asap?

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Taken from a tutorial on my website about changing the window motor:

"White lithium grease in a spray can lubes the metal parts; teeth, gears, etc. Avoid getting it on the glass if you can, it’s really tough to clean off. Had to use mineral spirits for cleanup. I used silicone lubricant on the channels."

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If it stops and does not go for a minute then if an original motor (rivets still in place) then the motor is probably aging and needs to be replaced.

If just binding then it may need lubricating as above and check to make sure the channels are unobstructed. There is one on the fixed window, one lateral channel, and a vertical channel at the rear

If lubing does not help then the channels may need adjustment but be very careful with this - if excess pressure is on the front channel the plastic may delaminate. The only cure then is to replace the window. OTOH too much slack will allow the glass to tilt and bind and possibly come out of the channel.

There are instructions on how to adjust sliding windows in the FSM andshould be reviewed first to get the sequence of adjustment right.

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Guest Mc_Reatta

Correct. There is a thermal cut out that protects the motor from being damaged by overheating if something causes the window to stick. Unfortunately, age takes its toll the motor gets too hot just trying to lift the window even if it isn't binding up anywhere. If lubrication doesn't help and the window is not obviously binding in the tracks, the only solution is to replace the motor with a new one. Ronnie's site has the instructions. Heed the safety warnings and take your time with your first one and you'll be OK. It's much easier the second time around. If neither motor has been replaced in the past, look for a 2 for special as I bet the other door won't be far behind. My driver's side went first, then a while later the passenger's side went.

Mike McDonald

Space Coast, FL

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Guest daveagain909

I really think the window is binding and it may be due to a the window track. I have greased it but still binds when it gets 3/4 of the say up, It may need to have the side window adjusted, but i think that is out of my pay scale or even my technical abilities. Mc Reatta give me a call. I am down in palm bay now and would really appreciate your advise.

I have sent you a PM with my phone number.

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Just about all of the adjustment can be made with the rear channel. One thing to check: is the gap between the black guide on the window and the channel in the fixed window the same when going up as when going down ? If considerably different, the glass is cocking in the channel. The fixed glass adjustment is more for the gap betwween the fixed glass frame and the A-pillar.

post-31022-143138044702_thumb.jpg

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If you have taken the door panel off, look at the front of the window near the bottom. There is a "T" shaped plastic molded into the front guide. This is supposed to be snapped into the guide channel. If it has popped out, then the window will bind.... it is also possible that the plastic "T" has broken and will no longer catch in the chanel, in that case you must replace the glass with one that has a good lower guide.

I would post a picture but it is almost impossible to get a good photo of the "T"

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Guest Greg Ross

I found when my widow action slows down the cure is to lube the front guide channel with "spray" White Lithium Grease and "spray" Silicone. Raise and lower the window and alternate between the two products, and then repeat several times.

Make sure none of the three rivets that secure the bottom glass support have sheared off(at bottom edge of glass) If one or more of those are gone binding will definitely happen as well.

Living in the North our electrical parts tend to last longer without the heat, I've never (knock on wood) replaced a window motor.

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