Jump to content

32 Nash 1063 convertible sedan


Recommended Posts

How about giving the outside of the frame rails a new coat of paint, cleaning up the engine the best you can and then a new coat of paint, and  focusing on the fenders for where you spend your time (aka there is a lot for doing everything "right", but then again do you really need to have it all "right" or will you have more fun just using the car and enjoying it on a more quick basis) - given all you have been through I would be looking for ways to not take the car apart any further than you need to ?  

 

Basically, I will tell you I never regretted doing every part of a car in restoration, but I certainly have not needed perfectly painted frames in my life - I can beat myself up in far more different ways. 

 

Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

I would be looking for ways to not take the car apart any further than you need to ?  

That's the plan at almost age 69.  Many people just want an old survivor these days, and something that can be run down a dirt road without worry....and have a blast doing that.   At this point right now today, it's a parts car in todays new world,...... so if it just gets to the "fixed-up  & registered" status, it's at least saved from the scrapyard.

 

Sunday I went after the right door fitting issues that appeared after the body was unbolted from the chassis.  100% my fault for sure, as I found random shims under some body bolts.  No idea why I did that a decade ago when trying to line up all the twisted body panels. 

 

The right door was too low at the B pillar as soon as I unlatch the door,...  Then the next issue was the  door gap was too tight at the top of B pillar.

 

I went for the A pillar first, ...I think when I did the finish welding at the bottom of the A pillar a few weeks ago, the heavy welds shrunk and pulled the pillar backwards.  I cut through as much of the A pillar above the welds I could get to, then used a bottle jack to push up on the dash bottom edge (which is very strong there).   The jack snapped the last bit of what I could not get to with the sawzall blade.  I could still close the door to check progress with the jack still there. It's now perfect.

DSCN3274.thumb.JPG.3625869bf342436fd1bb578fd656afbb.JPG

 

 

then I went for the back of the body to fix the tight gap at the door top. Same jack, but pushing on a 4x4 that is jambed against a super strong body sill crossmember.  Holy cow, it took 3 pushes to get that gap to move, and stay put due to spring-back.  I swear I spread that top gap to over a 1/2" on the last push, but it sprung back to a perfect gap.   The heavy duty main steel sills do not go very far back into the rear body tub, so I was not bending the sill (which still checks to be still dead straight).  I was tweaking the sheetmetal tub and it's much lighter duty rectangular tubing.

DSCN3273.thumb.JPG.726759d7531cfe08294f6cc73f8b9662.JPG

 

 

 

Today with good door gap, I could then make the right lower quarter panel patch, as the original was pin-holed rust.

DSCN3276.thumb.JPG.7b2f2e0cd1e5dcfbdad7784c932f783b.JPG

 

When I did the other side a month ago, I said this piece is complex because it's back side goes under, then upwards, to weld to the bottoms of the main sills.  I know I got the measurements correct to the only two sharp bends that can be done on the brake, but the rest is shaped on the press and in a fancy 1890s woodworkers vice, and some hand tool bending.

 

That is 18 gauge, the original is slightly thinner at 19, but after making these tightly compacted bends, it seems like working with boiler plate for such a small panel.   It was beyond miserable to do any fine tweaking to get it even sort of close.  I fought with it till late in the day, and no matter what I did, or how close it got a few times, it would then get worse again.

 

I finally got ticked off but good, and cut the top of the underside flange right off, ......and then the outside details were lining up pretty good in just minutes.  I will finish tomorrow rather than work tired and stressed from the battle. When the outer sides are welded/aligned perfectly, then I will weld the flange back onto the underside.

DSCN3277.thumb.JPG.17cf4796ada9b2531152957dc1542f9a.JPG

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, F&J said:

That's the plan at almost age 69.  Many people just want an old survivor these days, and something that can be run down a dirt road without worry....and have a blast doing that.   At this point right now today, it's a parts car in todays new world,...... so if it just gets to the "fixed-up  & registered" status, it's at least saved from the scrapyard

I am not sure everyone wants a survivor car - they tend to gravitate toward such for a number of reasons - cost of car, cost or restoration, non-driveability of so many restorations, other fish to fry, realize a lot of cars that never should be restored have been and often without thought to every piece of hardware being correct, and ...

 

I saw the neighbors out yesterday in their Model A Tudor that has a 50's repaint and a rebuilt engine - they were having a grand time and the other neighbors were out Sunday in their "survivor" Mustang (nicest one I have ever seen though) and they were having a great time too. 

 

Yes, until you get it further along it really is probably still at this point viewed as close to a parts car - unfortunate, but that is the way it works and a lot to be said for nice and usuable verses a long way to go (so you are on right path). 

 

69 is not that old !!!

 

Sidenote - I spent probably 80 hours adjusting body on the Auburn - I sympathize with you. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

My Olds running board/splash aprons were that heavy gauge sheet metal and had compound curves along with sharp 90d bends on the curve. It took creative thinking in places and finding things is the scrap bin to clamp then bend against to get the desired results. I feel your pain but know it will be perfect when your done.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

All these pics are taken today: Almost a month since last post...because it's been just sandblasting(I hate blasting) the hood parts, rad shell, hood doors, and lots of work on the main body not worth posting about.  

 

Then straightening, and welding a few cracks on these parts including heat shrinking on the right hood top where it must have been folded over lengthwise; I think when it was a junked car, stripped/shot up with BBs, etc,  somebody may have forced the entire right half of the hood all the way over towards the left fender and then jumped on it?   You can see lengthwise body filler that I had to do in one pic of the right hood top.

 

Not easy to fix a hood top fold. I had roughed it out years ago just enough to know if it could be saved, but never finished it.

DSCN3287.thumb.JPG.c5ea3f3974f20bcb30dfc97f19981810.JPG

 

DSCN3288.thumb.JPG.1072d6a5011663c3f4b7787e073adab6.JPG

DSCN3289.thumb.JPG.2730be8dbe9f4f49b8cd64cec13a9c00.JPG

I decided I had to do all this dreaded crap work before doing the final paint prep on the main body, as I want to paint all of these on one day to get color match.  If I stayed working the body tub to fully  "paint ready", I might have just painted it to finally see some dang color.  I would regret that if I had a mismatch in color.

 

While taking the last pic, UPS dropped off the last quart of PPG mixing toner.  Long story shorter, I bought 2 test quarts of both blues in SS urethane from TP Global 10 years ago to see if it matched the bits of old paint.  It was $44 a quart then.  I tried to order more, but they now sell a quart only with the hardener, and it's nearly 3x the price!  And it has reducer added, so you ain't gettin' a quart, it's watered down so you need even more quarts!  I have no extra money to play their games, but I do have tons of PPG supplies I got for free.

 

DSCN3290.thumb.JPG.eaef22fc4d962793dfd14c5b377e2c3e.JPG

 

I had enough blue toners (and black to make blues darker) in PPG acrylic enamel, but I wanted to use SS Urethane as it paints so much better/easier for me.  I just did not have quite enough urethane toners (because those gallons shown are not full, some have less than a quart), so I got some more on ebay cheap.  

 

Yes, I know most won't do a bench mix in case you need more after a crash or damage, but at my age...who cares...not me. Lol

 

I had the worst nights sleep and I'm really beat, but I wish I could try mixing the toners today.  I find it fun...and it's way better than more SANDING!

 

.

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Good to see an update Frank! I've seen you post on other threads, so figured you were working too hard to write up a post.  :)

 

Didn't know TCP Global paints come with the reducer already added..........doesn't reducer come in different 'temps' anymore - one for high temp, one for normal temps, one for cold temps? If so, already having the reducer already added takes away your ability to fine tune the paint mix to the ambient conditions, doesn't it?  

Edited by r1lark (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, r1lark said:

Didn't know TCP Global paints come with the reducer already added

Me neither until I ordered the quart of single stage urethane gloss black from them on ebay, shown at the far right in the last pic.  As soon as I took it out of the box I heard that watery slosh sound.  Then I looked at their ebay description: It says something like 2 to one, or 4 to whatever....If I was a daily painter, I would have known with only two numbers as "a mix", they mean that's for the hardener/activator.

 

.  In other words if it said a "three number mix" like 4-2-1 or similar, then that's proof that you have pure paint, as you are adding reducer and activator into what you receive.

 

I also got several cases of gallons of PPG urethane reducer and PPG (AE)acrylic enamel reducer with all the toners from a closed auto store.  The only ones that mention temps are the AE reducers.  I've used the urethane reducer in temps from 80s down to low 50s with same predictable results, that's another reason why I prefer SS urethane.

 

I just put away the parts that I reprimed today and looked them over closely, they look like they only now need a final 400 sanding.  That gave me a desperately needed kick in the stamina department, to get back on the main body final prep.  Cold is sneaking in and I will quit the project if it does not show some dang color by snow.  Even if I get the body tub, hood and grill shell in color, there is a ton of body parts/wheels left to blast and rehab/paint.  <<Trying to blank that out of my thoughts for now.  I don't think I can do any more big projects after this one. 

 

.....but I'm not going to get rid of the 34 LaS conv project until the Nash is done, and then only if after 6 more months of doing nothing and then decide I just know for sure that I am done with all this tedious work.  I have a buyer waiting, he was here this weekend picking up some spare LaS parts, and if something sudden happens to me, he will sort through the big building to help my son deal with my estate. (but I'd like to try the wood on it as I had it all planned out on how/where to start and bought nice oak wood before I went to the hospitals in 2017) <<<   see, it's hopeless to try to quit cold turkey 😵😕

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, r1lark said:

..........doesn't reducer come in different 'temps' anymore - one for high temp, one for normal temps, one for cold temps?

Well, I was thinking I'd better go look closer at the urethane PPG reducers I have been using.... as I get things wrong lately.  I was totally wrong in my last post, as these PPG AU reducers are listed as High Temperature, I think 685 is the number.  So yes, you are correct about temp differences in reducers of both AU and AE paints. 

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yesterday was a day that I knew I should have bought nice survivors in the last decade, instead of junkyard refugees.  I wanted to get the whole body,.. inside, outside and undersides in the first complete heavy coat of urethane black highbuild primer to see how bad it still is.

 

I can't use epoxy primers as they make me very ill, but this stuff affected me too.  I had to do a lot of prep work with a diegrinder with PPG 4" scotchbrite wheels all morning, so I was already beat up by the time I could paint.

 

Finished late in the day by painting the back sides of hood parts and grille shell outdoors, beating the rain, then had to lay under the body to do all the framework tubing and floor undersides which is very tough to do without a lift.  Simply S-work that made me wonder why I think this is a hobby?

 

 

Body exterior looked surprisingly straight while spraying each panel, but as it dried, issues appeared :(  I did lots of bodywork on both doors years ago as they were near junk, one had a metal rod rammed right through the center of the door skin by vandals when it was junked.

 

I'm taking a day off, ....or two.

DSCN3295.thumb.JPG.908a7d0119414d3406e80f920c621502.JPGDSCN3298.thumb.JPG.190c0b72c84c95251a6072cfd151b71d.JPG

 

I did get the PPG toners all mixed a few days ago, ....Not sure when it will be ready for color at this point. Guesses or deadlines don't seem to work out so far.

 

 

.

 

DSCN3296.JPG

DSCN3297.JPG

  • Like 10
Link to post
Share on other sites
31 minutes ago, GARY F said:

Looks good from here.

I finally went to the shop early afternoon to give it a close look, viewed each panel closely from every angle with shop lights off and sun coming in the garage doorway.   

 

Being that it will be such dark colors, I have a lot of small fussy work to do.  One panel that might be the only real tough challenge is the driver side cowl side panel.  I spent a bit of study time on how to go about it.   This car was sandblasted many decades ago with heavy coarse sand as the surfaces were like 60-80 grit sandpaper when I got it.  They might have taken it to a place that blasts dumpsters and dumptruck bodies.  I think they started on that panel first with too much air pressure and it's definitely warped from blasting. 

 

The bad thing is that the warped depression in the center of the cowl side panel is not oil-canning.  I tried pushing hard on the backside, and I am fairly certain that the center should not be shrunk, I think all around the depression is stretched?, so I need to think more first.  Both of the cowl sides are very hidden by the sidemount tires with their steel tire covers, but I can't use that as an excuse to leave it as is.

nashmine.jpg.4b2005b26c6a03ccf1ec9068c3d435e2.jpg

 

I'm off right now to the local dam with the other 32 to get my mind a restbreak by watching nature and sunset.  I already have that car outside as I went shopping earlier.  At least I have one dependable useable early car that I brought back from the junkpile. 

 

.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Frank I know sometimes shrinking with a torch can make the metal work hard,I know annealing it can be a hit and miss, have you thought about one of those stainless shrinking disks,they work pretty well just don’t get too close they are very unforgiving,the Nash seems to becoming right along,take time once in awhile too enjoy nature really clears your head,good luck will be watching your progress,    Dave

Link to post
Share on other sites

 

 

On ‎10‎/‎1‎/‎2020 at 1:22 PM, JustDave said:

I know sometimes shrinking with a torch

Dave, I did some heat shrinking with propane on the left cowl side, then also did just hand work to the right side.  These are odd panels where the straighter front vertical edge at the hood, then has to morph into a more curved vertical edge at the front of the door.  These panels often feel strange when feeling them on past cars I've had.  Time will tell if I got then close enough. I hope they look ok. I'm just not sure, but I did as much as I could stomach.LOL

 

 

Back in a different primer color.  I used the black 2 part urethane hi-build primer as a rust resistant base, then switched to my favorite which is lacquer hi-build which sands so much easier/faster. 

 

I also stopped buying the "professional" 2 part spot filler stuff as it sands awful IMO.... and it stinks bad and leaves a nasty taste when sanding it.  I found the old 3M acrylic spot filler on ebay and I'm glad I can still get it. 

DSCN3302.thumb.JPG.b3ba87f5ad639afb6fbdfb9137488e89.JPGDSCN3304.thumb.JPG.95ac6b90384164b798c288a4bb7ef39d.JPG

Check out the door gaps that I fought so hard to get.  When I got the car, the tops of the doors overlapped the quarters and would not even close! Look at the "as found" picture two posts earlier to see the door fit.  In these pics, I have removed the upper and lower rubber door bumpers and also the twin door alignment dovetails.  The doors fit pretty dang good by my eyes.  (And one member recently said he has never seen a steel framing retro on a wood bodied car that did not look like rat rod). ...( don't judge others sucesses  by your own lack of vision, skills, and determination). >> I am not skilled enough to have tried to do wood with no surviving patterns on this car.

 

Late in the day, I finished prepping the lower dash for gloss black SS urethane, I also got lazy and did not add flattening agent to that mix, when I later painted the firewall while the gun had paint left over.  I think most firewalls were semi gloss? but the Nash cars all used a black fiber insulated mat on the outside of the firewall, instead of on the inside.  So most of the firewall will be covered anyways. (which is good as the old water trapping mat that was missing, had left rot pinholes that I patched/welded and lots of deep pits.) 

 

DSCN3300.thumb.JPG.1a2e8e0ec844747736a47c870d7439ff.JPGDSCN3301.thumb.JPG.e4baf49f2a909352fa650a8d06258f73.JPG

 

Can't really see the dash very well, but I did end up with a few dust particles.  This is why I wish I could paint outdoors as I never have dust issues outdoors.  I refuse to color sand and buff,... I never do, as it just adds more S work and more room for errors.(and I'm sick of SANDING)

 

I have time to think this over, as the next two days are supposed to be too windy and the hood parts and grille shell simply have to be painted outdoors for indoor space limitations.  I thought maybe I could get the body on a small trailer so I could roll it out for paint. 

 

I will be really chafing at the bit to see some BLUE color SOON.  I have just a few small places to fussy-sand and that won't take more than a couple of hours at most.  I have not decided to paint the lighter navy blue main body color first, or start with the darker midnight blue beltlines and the entire windshield area.  It will depend on weather, and what I think will be easier. Maybe if I do the belts and windshield area first, in the shop...and if the dust issue is not too bad, then I may do the main color indoors the next day.

 

.

  • Like 8
Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks like your making some great progress!  We you see that color it'll go smoother from there.   I always find it interesting to look at a nicely painted area and think back over the hundreds of hours that might have gone into that one spot... it seems to make that time a little less painful. :)

 

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

Despite forecasted strong winds increasing during later morning... and showers late, I went for it.  Big mistake with light primer as it took more coats to get coverage. More coats means more dust each coat. 

 

More big winds Thursday and Saturday, so I hope to be prepped enough to do the Navy blue on Friday, or more likely Sunday.

 

Tops of both doors must look like I missed painting enough, but there is supposed to be Navy blue at the very top, above the triple beltline beads.  4th pic is one of the hood tops showing it's supposed to have dark blue on both long edges.

DSCN3309.thumb.JPG.b5a303f65e4975b201c8f38aac0fd6ca.JPG

Above pic looks like I forgot to paint the lower beads on the bottom of body, but it's not supposed to be the darker blue there...so I am doing it like it originally was.

 

 

DSCN3310.thumb.JPG.ef355dbb6ef2934830de1e1329dc4cff.JPGDSCN3314.thumb.JPG.b73abbbc9e16a41275593678e93dfc04.JPG

DSCN3307.thumb.JPG.dee8369e6009aa9bccf8e8f69be35266.JPG

 

 

Sides of grille shell will be the somewhat lighter Navy blue like it is supposed to be.

DSCN3305.thumb.JPG.42fde66af035108960d3e04051f31e27.JPGDSCN3306.thumb.JPG.9421c411ee3eb9c41920b1ce3fd0da7c.JPG

DSCN3311.thumb.JPG.180f61f40fe2fe95c99d248e4fc092bc.JPGDSCN3313.thumb.JPG.24ec92ee7f2536ae5e3d03f59ee5d46e.JPG

Blast of crazy hard wind came through the shop right after the last wet coat on body at 4 pm, and it left some more dust on cowl top. 

 

I really enjoy spraypainting a lot, but I'm really tired of working non stop every single day to beat the weather. Once the body gets out of the work bay, then I will have indoor room to do the other body parts during the winter, (when I feel like it).  :)    no more rushing then.

 

 

 

 

Edited by F&J (see edit history)
  • Like 7
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
21 minutes ago, Michigan Farmer said:

few others would have saved! ....Can't wait to see the finished product!

It's hard to think this thread was started in 2009...but my excuse is that more hopeless ones were being worked on in stages in between..

 

My son recently sent me this first pic from less than a year ago when he bought this 46 CJ2a in a junkyard up north to be only used for parts.  Well, less than 6 months later, he now uses it every day as a chore vehicle on his dream farm he bought a few months later.

 

He loves this thing and said he will never sell it and "will keep it forever". Less than grand invested total so far.

 

After he sold and removed the cab and snowplow, "he saw some vision in his head" and decided he just could not part it out after it somehow survived sitting in that junkyard for 38 years under pine trees. He used the money from those sales to buy a parts chassis for the engine that was missing.  The rest is history as they say...

 

the last picture was sent to me by a Jeep guy near Boston who went to that junkyard a few hours before we showed up to look it over, ...that guy said it was too far gone, but he cheered us on when I ran a fix-it-up thread on a Jeep Forum and was happy to see it coming alive again.  Another Jeep forum member saw the progress and donated the front seat frames we could not find.  It was all meant to be... It seems.  :)

1504856671_jeepinjunkyard.thumb.jpg.e92f41197f604b30ccac938127df4091.jpg

 

 

Below pic is him driving it from my place to his and it's new home...

jeep3.thumb.jpg.3378daef54e0590211c1c0acb6934235.jpg

DSCN3017.thumb.JPG.2f4f1cb1519561b4abe7c8cb2782ecae.JPG

1240899185_46jeep.thumb.jpg.aff5df358dbfe7fc1c24ba4da67e9fda.jpg

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites
On 10/6/2020 at 6:16 PM, F&J said:

 

but I did end up with a few dust particles. 

Very easy to pick things apart when looking at small areas and such - someone told me a long time ago though that you do not notice as much on a finished car and to not stand in my own way (it turned out to be good advice). 

Link to post
Share on other sites

That's sage advice. I can't tell you how many times I've made something that had a tiny flaw that really bothered me...two days later I had to look hard to find it. I think it's a curse all of us who do much of our own work suffer from...we want perfection and we know what perfection looks like so we see things no one else will see and, given time, don't even see ourselves.

  • Like 3
Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, John_Mereness said:

Very easy to pick things apart when looking at small areas and such

 

4 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

flaw that really bothered me...two days later I had to look hard to find it.

 

3 hours ago, alsancle said:

Perfection is the enemy of good enough.

 

2 hours ago, edinmass said:

I like the color.......👍👍👍

I had said "most likely Sunday" to paint, and forecast said today or wait out rain till mid week.  Felt like crap this morning again, but I stuck with filling little pits and divots until Noon. Started painting at 12:15 and then seeing the color on one panel, I  assumed it was not going to be enough contrast,.... but the darker color was all taped up/hidden, so I just went for it anyway.

 

Finished with just two coats by 1:30, because I redid all the primer in darker red oxide.

DSCN3315.thumb.JPG.9a7c36dff861d29d54f76c21538029ed.JPGDSCN3316.thumb.JPG.f9d24d0b73ca14f0f10bda1d91d4813e.JPG

Breeze was more than forecast said, but it subsided by the time I started painting...but lots of super fine dust that may be pollen in the parts I did outside. Both hood tops have the most specks...AND I sure missed waves in both tops. Dang it.  They really look awful if viewed from front or back, but look ok from the sides.  And they are on a low table, so maybe when on the car they won't look so bad?

 

On the 2nd coat on body indoors, I had to hold a droplight as I sprayed the outer panels.  The spraygun I used, a friend got it new as a door prize at a Cruise-in, and let me tell you...that thing is a freaking handful trying to keep ahead of how much paint it can lay out.  Better than my old Binks 7 that just won't put out enough paint and smaller fan pattern...  I ended up with two tiny sags; on driver side cowl and rear quarter an inch or two under the beltlines.  Let it set a few months and I can make them gone.

DSCN3317.thumb.JPG.76638c5580ee9394e46af32773252049.JPGDSCN3320.thumb.JPG.bbcc31e0dd29c3dc0ccf7c02f8a6f443.JPGDSCN3321.thumb.JPG.36494284dec65a1f5eabbefc3475e6a1.JPGDSCN3323.thumb.JPG.c669b360b8fe13967c51face21b90711.JPGDSCN3319.thumb.JPG.a6fa9c3f470d5061f0897073ef6ab878.JPG

 

Yes I'm a bit bummed from lack of contrast, and in shade or different viewing angles, the colors look the same.

 

......but my son and I did not like the factory colors that I test sprayed on the back body and fender years ago, as it was too much contrast.  ( I should have added more black to the beltline colors.).

 

But, as I'm always trying to think of a way to get out of another jamb......I had just emailed these pics to my son... and at the end of the email, I asked him how would it be if I added more black to that darker color when I do the 4 fenders and 2 sidemount covers?  I am starting to see that in my head, and I most likely will do that.  What do you guys think?  (It took way, way too long for me to tape the beltlines, so I don't really want to redo those).

 

The original fender color was very dark looking and it looked really classy.    I'm trying to imagine the car together with the blackwalls I have, and black top fabric I have.  ( meaning thinking of anything to keep me going at this point)

 

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm inclined to feel that a subtle difference is fine. It's tough to judge from photos on the internet because what we see is largely dependent on our individual computer monitors...they are never accurate unless you are working with sophisticated color correction software and then you are at the mercy of the camera that took the original picture. That said, I like it. and think a fine pinstripe in a contrasting color could really bring out the difference while keeping the elegant quality of a subtle difference

 

I've been giving some thought to the motorcycle restoration I'm going to fiddle with this winter in my cellar. I'm inclined to go with an absolute minimum of chrome - maybe just the exhaust pipes and a few fittings with a black frame and very dark green tank and covers...a two-wheeled version of a "two nearly the same" motif.

  • Like 2
Link to post
Share on other sites

I need some advice on transport..

 

I just got a email reply about a "rebuilt 30s Nash motor" I saw online. It was listed twice on the same day, first as a 30s 4 cyl then a second ad as a 30s 6 cyl.  After 2 weeks of thinking, I finally replied to the ad for one reason:  The seller is in far northern Cal, and said the engine "was rebuilt as a spare for a car that ran the Great Race".  Well, I must have mentioned the 32 Nash Great Race car from nearby Oregon some years ago, and it was modified with modern OD, hyd brakes, and a 1934 Nash overhead 6 engine to replace the lower power 32 flathead 6.

DSCN3326.thumb.JPG.eaa6b9db257f886f0deaa8ee2dc0860f.JPG

This is a reprint from the AACA library that a old friend bought for me when I first got my Nash.  The motor in the ad is definitely from this 32, as the seller was a good friend of the Nash owner and said it was for that car and gave me the numbers off the head and block.  That owner was well funded, and did everything on his car to the max as he drove it to and from the starting point each year for over a decade.  (Never trailered to the start, or from the finish).

 

The engine is truly dirt cheap, but in Norcal, and I'm in Connecticut...  Anybody have advice on where to start looking for a trustworthy hauler?  Not in a rush, but I don't want a fly by night shipper, and I am not looking for a low bidder.

 

Any leads?  Thanks

.

 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Strap it down to a pallet and send it via Fastenal? I've done this twice and was completely happy with the outcome. It has to travel between Fastenal locations though so, if there isn't one nearby, it won't work very well.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

I understand what you mean about not getting a fly by night shipper, however, I've found that if your careful you can get what you want with U Ship.  You put your job out there and shippers bid on it.  They have their shipping history with U Ship online for you to look at and you can decide if they're trusty worthy or not.  In today's world that's probably better than a "real" shipping company.  I've used U Ship twice now and both times have been outstanding.   I got a few bids that I didn't feel comfortable with but I waited a bit and managed to find just what I was looking for. 

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

It is going to have to be strapped to a pallet no matter what I would guess.  I sold a Packard straight eight to a guy 800 miles away a few years ago and I just went through my email to figure out how it was shipped.   He arranged everything on his side so I don't know what he used.   I had a buddy bolt it to a pallet and build a box around it to protect the accessories.   The crating was a couple hundred bucks but the engine at the carb, distributor, etc still on it.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, JV Puleo said:

Strap it down to a pallet and send it via Fastenal? I've done this twice and was completely happy with the outcome. It has to travel between Fastenal locations though so, if there isn't one nearby, it won't work very well.

I here Fastenal is a good service.  

 

I have also used Dayton Freight and they were willing to ship secured to a palate and gave me a better price for a fork lift truck on one end and even a better price for a palate jack on the other end (otherwise you have to pay to have them put a palate jack on the truck). 

Edited by John_Mereness (see edit history)
Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Steve_Mack_CT said:

Drying out here in CT, time to get back at it, hope to see some more updates! 

You are drying...I am crying.. 

 

Fastenal never even bothered to reply to the only way you can get a shipment started(by web). After waiting 2 days in vain; I called/emailed, and one phone rep gave me 3 more phone numbers of people to call.  None were available to talk to.   Then I sent an email to the woman I did talk with, begging her to forward my quote specs to the right person. 

 

Then late today, the final email:   "Thank you for the opportunity to quote.  We are not offering any shipments from the West coast into the Midwest or East coast"   I could assume it's the California hype nonsense, but IDK.

 

No idea what company to try now.  Bummed out

 

Ok, during the day, I did finally go to the shop for first time since Sunday painting.  Decided to at least remove running boards, side aprons, and rear aprons from the frame to be able to tow the chassis to where I could powerwash everything in preparation for the supposed engine replacement.  I was so cramped for space to do that in the spare bay loaded with Nash parts, but I got them off:

DSCN3330.thumb.JPG.85e8dbaff31c4ce872cbc1572c1e7e43.JPG

I don't know where this car was from originally, but look at the lack of pits or rot on the undersides.  That Rustoleum blue was put on many decades ago by the first guy to rescue the car.  I know road salt was not used back in WW2 era, but this underside metal is shockingly decent for any 32 car. 

 

Then late today waiting in vain for a call from Fastenal, I started to lower the Nash body carefully onto a small homebuilt garden tractor trailer that I built for my son decades ago.  I had to get something small with wheels to fit past the 4 jackstands, but it's still wide enough to be stable.  I have to weld some upright square tubing to it, so it can attach to the undersides of the body.  More work, but I will be moving the body alone with a garden tractor and don't want it to slide off or whatever.

 

All this so I could get the chassis into the workbay for the motor swap  :(   No rush now, it seems. 

 

.

  • Like 1
Link to post
Share on other sites

Some better news and some not, for today..

 

First the apparent good: I believe I have found the right person to get the rebuilt Nash engine from "coast to coast".  I won't say who as he normally does not haul parts with showcars, and prefers he doesn't get more requests for parts hauling. 

 

He just happened to be going to make his last NorthWest coast run before his annual holidays shutdown vacation, and in 9 days will be within 100 miles of where the engine is sitting.  Hot Dayum..  I told him up front that there is no rush on either end, and that's what helped the deal so far.  He is able to pick up/haul it then, but only back to his home base place for now, as he has no trips booked solid for the next East coast run until January at the earliest.  No problem for me and I said Spring 2021 would work fine for me.

 

In between constant running to the house laptop to do email replies to the seller, as well as his wife who is handling the online payment, and the hauler's questions, running to the bank too, .... I spent 2.5 hours this morning welding, modifying, stretching the old garden trailer.  I then had a trailer tire that kept leaking badly at the bead, so had to fix that to get the body outside in sun to see what is what.  But as soon as I fixed the tire, I got the email about paying for the engine, so had to run to the bank to add cash.

 

By the time I got back, the sun was low and had shady spots, so these pics will have to do for now.

DSCN3338.thumb.JPG.6d9f8113782fa28aceab86a0f0166efe.JPGDSCN3336.thumb.JPG.30d47b192fc606a32097af0ec1043ad3.JPGDSCN3334.thumb.JPG.681af9099471d9fb93aa0228e23a8eef.JPG

 

 

The not so good news is that I will repaint everything after the body goes on the frame.  I have to.  In the sun, I see primer peeking through on many places on the darker beltlines, and one glaring weak spot on the lower center of driver door.  I should have borrowed some work lights for my "cave". I just did not see them when painting indoors. 

 

But, now I can add more black for a better beltline and fender color.  So, I guess S--- happens for a reason.  Not really too bummed about that.  I just messed up... and I won't be happy until it's better.

 

Here are OLD pics of the 2 correct TPC Global colors from 2-3 years ago, but like said before, they don't photograph the same as in person.  I am 100% happy with the new main body color mix, so I will not change it, it is much better than the old color (in person only) You on a device, probably think the two different old vs new main body colors are the exact same, but they are not in person.

 

But, the rest needs to go more black, as the belts now show a dark violet hint in direct sun that I don't care for at all.  Adding black should mute that violet, and give more contrast, but not too much...if I don't screw up the re-mix.

nashtest1.jpg.66237f9ed5d55e7a2aa136d95c7c9aaa.jpgnashtest2.jpg.c018b06f3a7846a804ff7de5cd042c88.jpg

 

 

one more old pic shows faded/worn dark color inside the wheel rim that was covered by the rubber rim liner. It looks like a green hint that my son saw in the other new paint tests I did then.  The drum shown is original factory applied paint from new, and I sprayed 1/2 of another original painted drum 2-3 years ago, and that lighter blue was a perfect match to the unpainted half in sun or shade. For me, it's too light and too gaudy/distracting. 

nashtest3.jpg.c827f985c544af032d624a6702e0ca4a.jpg

I hope the engine haul contract goes through and does not get cancelled, but it looks pretty good so far.

 

.

 

  • Like 6
Link to post
Share on other sites
On ‎10‎/‎15‎/‎2020 at 7:03 PM, F&J said:

The not so good news is that I will repaint everything after the body goes on the frame.  I have to.  In the sun, I see primer peeking through

Update:  more good news. Sorry for a too LONG post!    I've been stressed out since I last posted due to lack of steady communication with the seller of the rebuilt motor on California.  I had to keep in contact with him, also the transporter who needed more detailed info, and the sellers wife who is handling the payment. 

 

Geez, I never owned a cell, never mind a smartphone, and she preferred for me to sign up with my bank and do a Zelle transfer instead of my Paypal.  I spent insane time over several days to get it to work, but assumed it was my outdated browser as that does not work well with the newest AACA upgrade.

 

Yesterday, I dared to install a new browser knowing that my laptop memory is already low.  Got that done, and nope, I still can't make Zelle work.  So biting my tongue as my patience was non-existent now,   I emailed her late yesterday again, pleading to find someone there to do Paypal.  Moments later she sent a Paypal money request (that I paid in less than a minute!  I had previously asked for PP to seller and wife several times, but never got a reply to that). 

 

Ok, so the transporter will be there on this Sunday....and all data sent to him to make it happen.  Thank goodness for this to be taken care of.

 

So today, I was spent mentally, & tired, but wanted to try an idea I had to fix the driver door where I could see primer barely showing through.  I did have bright sun, but could not see that spot until I moved the body 90* into the sun.  Then I mixed an over-thinned bit of the lower body color and dusted just that 2x2 foot spot with a touchup spraygun.   Then let that get almost dry, then dumped the color out, and went with slower drying PPG reducer with just whatever blue didn't pour out of the gun.  This time I ran the spray all the way to lower and rear edge of door, and almost up to the beltline. NOTHING was masked off as I am so sick of fussy taping.  I just opened the door !!

DSCN3340.thumb.JPG.93231e81c32e04a9bcc57684e56b06c9.JPGDSCN3342.thumb.JPG.b2fe6eed1d4883d9536c771c85356d53.JPG

 

Then as soon as the first color coat was sprayed...you guessed it, we went to fully grey overcast skies!  Well, at least I had sun to know I covered the weak area at first.

 

In the past experiences, I know I need to get as far away from the first coat, so I don't get tempted to do the flow coat too soon and ruin it.   So I walk up to house, make a coffee and sat on the back steps.  The sky looked bad.  A few minutes later, I hear rain drops on the upper rooftop deck I built when I was kinda off my nut a couple years back.  I'm thinking the paint will get rain spotted!   But I sat there waiting, and I hear something rustling above me.  One of the birds I feed bread crumbs to each day was taking a bath in a candle holder up there, and drips were hitting around me.  LOL

DSCN3343.thumb.JPG.54f887d59c9cfe7c7790532e991d2b74.JPG

Yes, a vintage spiral staircase and vintage railings, and decorations left over from buying out all the vintage stuff saved by the owner of the local scrap place that was tired of tripping over it all at his home.  I resold most for decent profit, so all this was free. Friends Grandchildren love the stairs as I told them they came from a lighthouse! (fake news) LOL

 

 

anyways,  the sun is gone, but I cannot see any color difference in the area I did repaint, so now I don't have to repaint anything.  I'm not even going darker on the belts as it's growing on me.  It just needs to be in daylight outside to get used to it.  This is only 2nd time outside.

 

wow...the sun just came back out !! so I can study it more.

  • Like 4
Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...