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32 Nash 1063 convertible sedan


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I just found this car at a local hotrod swap meet in Oct '08.

A brief history; It has had 3 prior Connecticut owners since it was dolly towed back from Carlisle "about 25+ years ago".

I was fortunate that the last owners father re-introduced me Don Carlson, who has run a resto shop for countless decades in central Ct. Although he never owned this car, Don gave me the phone numbers of the other Connecticut prior owners of this car.

The now 81 year old guy who bought it at Carlisle, stored it for "about 5-7 years", then sold it to a non-hobbiest who stored it for 20 years. The guy I got it from only had it a few months...and likely would have rodded it. It originally showed up at Carlisle back then, as part of a 6 car estate collection....sound familiar?..an unfinished project...loosing parts in every move? The owner who dolly towed it from Carlisle, had all the lug bolts fall off the rear wheel and said a truck driver tried to get his attention for at least 5 miles in the hills of Pa. Now I know why one wheel center is so chewed up. Somehow the raised outer part by the axle nut kept the wheel from falling off and destroying the car.

Long story shorter; Don said the first owner stopped at his shop about 3 years ago, saying he found a "milk crate of parts for the old Nash". I finally was able to reach him and he had to locate the crate all over again. smile.gif Lucky for me, most of the many small parts that are specific to this one rare body style, were in the crate.

I am getting older, and I need to get an oldie back on the road quick, so I will give it a good effort. Some parts are impossible to find, so I will substitute as needed for now.




I did get it running and moving, so I will start on replacing all the poorly done rewooding in the body. I will need some ideas when I get to the mounting for the B pillars, as there is old bedframe metal and some Home Depot brackets in there now...and it's still loose.

I hope I can stick with it smile.gif

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keiser31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Is there actually a seat in the rear of this car or at least room to fit one? </div></div>

Yes, it is supposed to have a full back seat like a Model A sedan. They are gone. It luckily has the 2 special front bucket seats just like an A. The driver seat is on tracks, but passenger side flips twice to get in the back. Funny that the seller had a 30 Cad V-12 bench seat up front and thought the 2 buckets were jump seats.

The doors have 2 inside door handles, one is way forward for front seat people, and the other handle is way back for the rear seat passengers to reach. I just wonder if that was in case you and the sweetie were in the back spooning? smile.gif Why else would you need that?

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Resorer32; Nash cataloged the car as a "5 passenger convertible sedan".

This body style was also used on the smallest of the four different models of the 8 cylinder Nashes in 32 and 33. The 1073, and 1173.

The Bigger 8 Nashes used a 4 door Conv sedan style.

The 32 Nash 4 dr Conv sedan, was only on the 2 middle versions of the 8's, and not on the biggest. In 33, the 4dr conv was only available on the biggest one.

Also, the car won't be for sale in my lifetime, sorry.

I have spent countless hours web searching for any other 32 1063's like mine, but have only found one old thread from 2000 about one in South America. However, there are a few 8 cylinder cars on the web; some are 32 2nd series, 32 first series(which is considered a leftover 31), 33 1173, and a couple of the older versions.

So, there are 2 that I know of so far, counting mine.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: keiser31</div><div class="ubbcode-body">I thought that it looked kind of rare. I have never seen another. Any idea of the production numbers on that year and style car? </div></div>

I have not seen any production numbers. I need to see if there is a Crestline book that covers Nash.

The one that shows up on ebay is a 1931 8 cyl, plus it is the earlier body style. Slight changes, but different than mine. As we all know, there are cars out there that will never end up being mentioned on the internet, so I have no clue how many 1063 model 32 Nash 2nd series 5pass conv sedans exist. I doubt there are 4 left (IMO).

One thing that may happen, is that this thread may pop up on a google search, and may lead another person who owns one, to this thread.

One thing I did find out is that there was only one "free" color combination for this model, along with 2 optional combinations. Mine is the free one; Dark navy Blue (Jennifer Blue), with black fenders, and Everglade Blue wire wheels (also a dark blue, but with a touch of green). Ivory stripe. It will be those again, as I just got in the 2 test quarts mixed, and they match the small but clean samples that are left. .......... Yes, Blackwalls smile.gif

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As the owner of a Nash product,a 1926 Ajax I joined The Nash (MOL) members on line . For $15 per year you get all the perks. One of our members has for sale hub caps that look like yours. Iam not positively sure. If you type in Nash Club on your browser, when the home page comes up click on to View an add. Scroll down 2 or 3 adds on the left colum to Shane Fishers add and he will direct you to his site. There is no charge to veiw his parts. I hope this helps you in your quest.

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Hupp36; I did get advance notice of the Stoudt's estate sale of Nash parts that Shane is running. I have a few things coming from there. Yes, I did see the Nash cars on the Nash photo gallery. I have all the pics saved for details. Both are the small 8 cylinder models; one is a 32 2nd series that is RHD imported back to the US from South America and the other is a 33. The RHD car just was on the New Years day run in So. Cal. I wish I could get some pics from either owner.

Ok, So I finally moved the Nash into the work area late yesterday. I re-installed the steering box that I took apart for binding problems, and it seems Ok now. This morning I started to prepare for rewooding the body. I took off the drivers rear fender and decided to fix the bad spot where the 34 Ford lights were mounted. It had a patch poorly welded on the backside, and then was leaded over. The lead was bubbled up from being installed over some rust. I think this was done when it was just a used car in the later 30s?


Backside shows patch removed by cutting a few welds. The 2 bolt Ford pattern plus the Nash 3 bolt pattern can be seen.


I used a hacksaw blade for a bendable straight edge to make scribe lines beyond the damaged area that will locate the original Nash taillight holes, on the outside of the fender. Then used a plasma cutter to cut away the bad area.


After cleaning the cut edge slightly, I then used paper over the hole to make a patch pattern by creasing the paper at the sharp edges of the hole. Transferred the pattern to 18Ga steel, and cut out and ground the patch to be a loose fit. I chose not to do a comound bend patch. If you try that and crown it too much, it is harder to shrink it, compared to needing stretching. Tacked carefully with my 35 year old Miller mig.


After fully welded and ground down, it now needs to be stretched slightly to give the correct compound curve. That will eliminate any body filler where the taillight is bolted. If filler was there, it will bulge out over time. I will install the fender to do the final fit. I also made a paper pattern of the 3 bolt location so I can transfer the pattern to the other rear fender. I have 2 taillight stands coming in this week and I hope it all fits well.


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I started to prepare for DE-wooding. There is all sorts of wood slapped into it, including parts of furniture. smile.gif

It's all going to have to be redone.

If you look down the passenger door window slot, there are 2 wooden blocks in there, and no way to intall the window and frame. I don't know why someone would do that...and just one side. They ran out of furniture to cut up, so they switched to pine 2x4's on the door bottoms.




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There is that software glitch with a random new car showing up as an attachment. Hopefully this new pic is the passenger door with the "window delete" option. smile.gif

I don't have any of the old wood for patterns except a small tip of one front sill, which was made of plywood when new. This is the first car I have ever seen with plywood sills. 32 was the first year for the new Nash reinforced X type frame, so I guess the body wood could be made cheaper due to the strong chassis frame.

There is many wooden parts that were never put back in. A friend spotted outlines of minor pitting under the 30 year old blue paint, and it is obvious that major wood parts are gone in the rear part of the body.

I am going to study the entire situation and I need to decide if I will replace some of the wood with steel. Just a thought for now.


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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dean_H.</div><div class="ubbcode-body">You do good work, looks great. How do you go about stretching the metal? I've been using a hammer and if that doesn't work I get a bigger hammer. Looking forward to seeing your method. </div></div>

I don't have an english wheel, but I have plenty of hammers. smile.gif I normally shape small panels over the butt end of a large block of pine or sometimes oak, depending on how much stretching is needed. Sometimes even a rubber mallet will work.

I do have the edge shrinker/stretcher tool, but that won't work on that part.

I love to work metal.

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<div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: Dave Henderson</div><div class="ubbcode-body">Regarding production figures, according to "The Production Figure Book For U.S. Cars" by Jerry Heasley, published in 1977, the entire Nash production for 1932 was 17,696, down from 38,616 in 1931. 1933 was even worse, with a total of only 14,973. No breakdown by model was given. </div></div>

Dave, thanks for the info. I sort of sidelined looking up the production stats because I did read that Nash was one of 2 companies that showed a profit in 1932...but...that they actually sold more cars in 32 than they actually built.

They marketed leftover? 1931 style cars as "1932 First Series" as well as the newer styled "1932 Second Series". The First Series had 900 type model numbers, the Second series used 1000 type numbers...and 1933 used 1100 type numbers.

Here is a body tag that I just spotted 2 days ago during the body removal. A lot of info in just a few numbers:

The 1000 part means 1932 Second Series.

The 60 part of the number means the smallest chassis/engine; the six.

The 3 part designates the 5 Passenger Conv. Sedan (2 door).

The "38" is the actual production number for this body shell off the line.

This short 2 door conv sedan was only installed on the Six and the "smallest" of the four different 8 cylinder models, which would carry a tag number of 1073. The 7 indicates the smallest 8 model.


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This whole thread has such great potential again to document a revival/resurrection of a very unique auto. And, I for one will be an avid follower of any/all progress you make with this little gem. And I also see and sense that you too are going to be one of the skilled individuals here that others will want to aspire to meet/match. Scott

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Tonights posts should raise a few eyebrows smile.gif

I am 58 years old and have seen my share of "forgotten project cars" that now have to wait for an estate sale to be given a second chance.

I am also more of a conservator rather than a restorer. I try to put things back to what the once were, and sometimes am forced to fix design problems along the way.

This grand old Nash likely was junked around WW2. The car must have sat outside for years, as the seat springs, interior fabrics, and wood were all rotted. I also know it was junked because the headlights and winshield were shot up with a BB gun. Some unknown person rescued the car and tried to fix it, but never tried repairing the wood structure.

I've looked over all the parts pretty well, and by looking at the door alignment wedges and how badly worn they are, I am positive that the doors were out of alignment way before the car was junked.

I only have one small piece of the original body sill; the piece in the pic below that the cowl sits on. Believe it or not, the sills were made from plywwod back in 1932. I am pretty sure the soft plywood directly under the "A post" or "hinge pillar" had started to crush soon after the car was new. You need to imagine the stress on that area when looking at the size and weight of an open door, and these doors are quite long. The plywood idea did not work then, and was a poor idea. That said, I would not consider replacing it with "correct" materials.

Now take a look at the "all-metal cowl construction". It is in perfect condition and not even stess cracked by the bad roads back then. So, the metal framing held up, and the wood did not. You got it, this car is getting steel framework.



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The main reason that I am taking the time to document the wood to metal conversion is to show that there are other ways to fix rough cars. In my opinion, the conversion will make for a much easier job, but more importantly, an incredibly stronger body that will last forever.

You need to imagine what type of jigs would be required to redo the car in wood. The framework was built first, in a jig, then the metal cowl and back part was intalled over the wood. The chances of getting it correct are very slim. You might pull it off without any patterns, but bear in mind that the original structure was seriously flawed IMO.

Open cars are way easier to convert, compared to sedans. A roadster would be the easiest by far. That's the body style that I "learned on" exactly 30 years ago. That car still exists today and can be found on a quick google image search. The car was later involved in a rush hour- freeway crash in the 1980s by the owner. He was tailgating and the traffic stopped, sending him into the guardrails. It took a good hit, with one frame horn getting behind a guard post, which did not move. The owner later said "man, that is one strong car" smile.gif

I will include some boring details on the metalwork because I need to show all the little things that may need to be done on any particular brand of car, especially if you have no patterns.

I basically started by calling the local steel yard to see what they had in stock. If the car was a roadster, I would have gone with thinwall square or rectangular tubing, usually 14 GA is fine...and lightweight. In this case of a convertible sedan with heavy doors and very small footprint of the "B post" or "latch pillar", I went with heavier tubing for just the sills. I know the weight is an issue, but I should be able to offset the gain in weight, by eliminating all of the super large wooden parts that used to be in the rear portion, as well as the doors. All of the parts above the sills will be formed from sheet stock, and will likely be 18 GA.

In the last pic, you may see the hood sill that sits under the very front of the cowl. That is why the cowl was originally "stepped upwards" right at the very front of the sill. These are details you need to be constantly looking for if you have no patterns.




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The sharp eyed folks may have noticed, that in the first pic in my last post, shows a "stepped splash apron". The lower edge of this body is curved downwards, and hangs a little below the top edge of the chassis...just like a 1932 Ford. That first pic also shows the Nash rocker panel in position, and fitting into the stepped apron.

Looks a little complicated, but it really is not. I have no fears...yet.. smile.gif

If you look at the last pic, there will also be a second, shorter sill starting just under the A pillar, and running slightly past the B pillar. The pillar attaching points are the most important areas as far as strength needed.

More tomorrow? maybe...I can only go so far before I need to sandblast the cowl and rear tub. THEN, I can paste them together. smile.gif

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I needed to put the cowl back on so I could verify all the frame mounting holes and prepare to tack the subframes together.

The first pic shows the "A pillar" foot with a frame mounting hole. These two holes on both A pillars are the only 2 undamaged holes that can be used to make sure the body is where it should be, as far as front-to-back. These feet are always sitting in routered pockets in the wooden sills, so that a carpet or floormat can lay flat.

I have been thinking about this problem for 2 days. If I were to leave the feet on top of the metal sill, then the rear of the cowl will be too high and the doors won't fit. If I make a pocket in the metal, the welding heat may warp the metal sill. I finally decided (again), to cut the feet off to get the correct cowl height. There is plenty of good thick metal on the A post to weld it solid. The problem is that once I cut the feet off, I now lose the only 2 reference bolt holes.

So what I needed to do is get the sill framework all set up correctly and welded. Then I can make reference marks on the sills, showing where the back edge of the cowl meets the sills.





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The floor sill work is complete and I have started the basic work needed to find out the exact places to attach the cowl and rear body tub.

If you have no wood patterns, you need to know that not everything was perfect from the factory. In this case, the rear body tub mounting brackets with mount holes were not put on in the exact place.

You can see the red marker pen stuck in the frame bolt hole, and it is not centered in the dished hole for the body bolt. The other side is even more "off". The holes were elongated at the factory, plus worn even more when the body was jiggling as the wood started to fail back then. You need to keep measuring and test fitting all the body parts before welding it up.

The second pic shows the last body mount with a white chalk mark on the chassis. This mount is about a foot or so behind the back edge of the new framing. Because it is not connected to the new framing, you need to shim the rear of the body so that it does not rub on the rear apron. It's pretty much a educated guess there as far as the gap above the apron.

The 3rd pic shows how you need to align the lowest edge of the quarter panel. Without patterns or body width measurements from another car, you need to eyeball the body reveal line to line up with the rocker panel. You also need to look at the curve formed by quarter, the rocker, and the cowl. It should be a graceful curve all along those parts, without seeing a abrupt change in angles where each part meets. Also, some cars are perfectly flat on the bottom edge of the body (like Model A's and most pre-1932 cars). In my case, the bottom curves downwards like a 32 Ford. You must keep eyeballing all of these curves to get it all correct.




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You still need to test fit the door at this point, before welding the body together.

The last owner put a bunch of new wood in the doors, and besides being a little crude, it was actually causing a twist in the doors. It all needs to come out before test fitting the door.

Then when I put the door hinge pins back in, I saw that the hinges were not aligned in a common line by using a metal rod down through the pin holes.

When closing the door, the mating "halves" of both the middle and lower hinges were actually hitting each other before the door was fully closed. That meant either bent hinges, or bent metal where the hinge half is bolted to the body. I checked the hinge halves with a straightedge, and they were OK. The metal on the door was bent at the middle and lowest hinge. The only way to get it back, was to use a hand size sledge hammer against each hinge half. The hinges are forged, so the body metal will bend back before the hinge itself could bend.

Just a short amount of time was needed, and now the hinges work perfectly, and more imortantly, the front door gap is perfect.

Now the rear door angle and angle of the B pillar needs figuring. If your front door gap is perfect, and you have the back of the body tub at the correct height over the apron, you will notice that as you push in the top of the B pillar, that the gap changes. You need to find the exact point of twisting the door skin, plus moving the top of the door and post, to get a perfect uniform gap. In the pic, I am using my foot to hold the bottom in, while pushing inwards at the top with my hand.

The weatherman said it will warm up for a few days, so I need to find some sandblast sand to do the cowl and body tub....THEN I can weld it together..




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Great posts, you are very talented. At the pace you're going, you'll be done in no time. I'm afraid, even after being told not to look at someone welding, I took a long look at that one pic. smile.gif Keep up the good work.

Oh... what kind of car is behind curtain number one?

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  • 2 weeks later...

Delayed in posting the progress. We had a warm weekend coming 2 weeks ago and I wanted to sandblast the cowl and rear body. Well, 45 minutes into blasting and a connecting rod broke on my backup 33 gallon Sears oiless compressor. I run 2 compressors at once and rarely use that one. I still kept running it on one cyl as I really wanted to get the blasting done. It gradually became apparent that I was loosing to much time with the cfm loss....so, I had to build a new compressor.

I could not even reuse the motor from the oiless, as it has the crankshaft made as part of the motor armature. I had a near new 4 hp compressor motor from a friends fathers estate, and reused the 33 gal tank and switch, and then went to HF for a V-twin pump.

Back in business


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I did get the cowl and rear body blasted. I had hoped to be able to start welding the cowl and back body down to the subframe, but decided to rebuild the doors first.

I needed to cut out the last remaining original wooden beams tucked into the top of each door. Those 2 were never taken out by the last owner because the door skin was built around these pieces. Sawzall will fix that...



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Next job was to make a cardboard pattern of the back edge curve on the "best" door, to have something to check the damaged door.

This pic shows me checking the damaged door edge with the good door pattern. You maybe can see that the bottom is "off".

The lower 10" of the door edge was pried apart by the first restorer maybe 30 years ago as he may have been trying to get at the wood. He then gas welded the seam and warped the heck out of that area.


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I did all the initial design and fab work on the drivers door first, as it was the best door. I did not photograph that part, so I will show the sequence on the "bad" door.

These are the first 2 pieces going into the door. They are thinwall rectangular tubing from the local recycler. The "new" steel store does not stock any thinwall stuff, so I went with recycled, rather than wait.

I fitted these 2 parts so that I could tack weld them together in the door, but then remove them for welding on the blind side. That lower rear corner adds lots of strength if it is welded on all sides.


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Here is most of the steel that will be needed in the door. Missing is one piece at the top which will give the garnish moulding something to fit onto. Also missing is a few tabs on the two upper bars for the regulator and door controls to attach to.

Putting in the diagonal at this point, later turned out to be a bad idea....I should have just tacked it for now.

This door is VERY light, compared to the oak framed door.


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Here is the driver door that I started on first but only did the finished picture. Not quite finished, as it needs a few more tabs for the handle controls and latch, a diagonal brace like the other door, as well as a garnish bracket.

The stuff was all tested and it works.


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Now to brace the rear body upper part so that I can start building the B posts or latch pillar.

After the diagonal temporary brace was in, I could start the post rebuild by attaching the jamb that was originally nailed to wood.

LOTS of hours went into setting the cowl angle, door gaps, and all sorts of alignment details before welding anything down to the new sills. Also the diagonal brace needs to be temporarily welded rather that just clamped. Clamps can and do allow things to move out of alignment and cause big problems later.

I am not doing this body set-up like I normally do with a really loose car without patterns. I usually leave the door hinges off, and tack weld the doors shut after they are perfectly aligned. Then I start bracing the entire body to eyeball all the body curves to look perfect from every possible view....then I start building the new steel framing.

I just thought I could maybe save time by doing it this way. Wrong! There is so much more time in setup and checking now that I tried it this way on the Nash...and room for a major error. Yes, I noticed a huge error right after this pic was taken. More on that tomorrow. It's all fixed on that side, and I am now working on the last panel on the other side before finally getting to finish the B posts.


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A few days ago, I said I ended up with a huge error on the body. The problem goes back to starting with loose body panels and doors that were as flexable as a pizza box.

When I first got the car, the top of the right rear quarter was about 2" too far outwards, and the drivers side was pushed in about 3". If you don't have another car to measure, you try to use common sense and eyeballing to get the correct shape of the cars curves.

I said that I usually tack weld the doors shut when working on a loose body. I assumed I could get the quarters in the correct positions "IF" I could find out the correct shape and twist of the door skins. I wrongly assumed that the top horizontal wooden door beam and the lower beam should be in the same plain, so that the interior door panel would be flat. Sounds right? Wrong.

The error showed up after building the door framing that way, and then aligning the rear quarter to the door. It all looked pretty good, but with dull finish blotchy primer, I started to view the outward curves from the cowl, along the door, and the "flow" as the curve met the rear body. The body curve looked good along the bottom and halfway up, but I I stood right behind the rear tire, the top part of the body did not look correct to me. I knew it would take a lot of work to fix that because it looked like the top of the quarter needed to be pulled outwards about 1/2". That would be the easy part; the hard part would be to "twist" the already ridged door the same 1/2".

I almost considered leaving it alone, but with the dark navy blue car color, I was sure it would look terrible to me.

I finally did what I should have thought of during the door planning. I clamped a long metal strip to the top of the body to check the entire curve of the body. The pic below is after I fixed the twist. The primer on the quarter is blotchy, so it may look all buckled, but it is perfect. It was a big effort to tweak the door. That small amount of metal framing I used is unbelievably strong.


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It took a lot of time and effort to get this old cars body gaps correct. Here is the passenger door gap without anything like latches or door wedges helping the fit. The door is just hanging by the hinges, and it's perfect. You may have wondered why I have not replaced the rusted or cutout sections yet. I always think that it is better and more accurate to not put in patch panels until the cars true shape is back in form.


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Well, I saved the worst panel for last; the drivers side rear quarter.

The quarter was bent inwards at the top at some point, and the verticle curve was too flat to match the undamaged door curve. That meant that the 90 degree flange on the forward edge of the quarter was stretched and that it needed shrinking.

You can fix this 3 ways. You could make saw cuts through the flange and then pull out the quater panel outwards and then

weld in quite a few spots, but that is the hard way.

You also could heat a few spots on the flange to red hot, and then water quench it, to shrink it....but that takes lots of skill.

Or, use a mechanical shrinker, which is what I will do.

In this pic, I hope you can see the mismatched curves..


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Here is 2 pics showing how to shrink the 90 degree flange that will fix that curve perfectly.

The shrinking tool is supposed to be a bench mounted tool. When I bought this 30 years ago, I chose to bolt it to a chunk of heavy channel iron so I could bring it next to any car I was working on, and just step on the channel with the tool placed on the floor. That way you can make patch panels quicker than constantly going back to the work bench. Now I have to admit that I have never tried using it "by hand" in this fashion that I am showing.

It is pretty heavy and awkward, but I sat on the floor framing and held it up with my knee and then also had to work around the temporary 45 degree brace for the B post. Yes, you need some experience to know exactly "where" to shrink, but it is not too tricky. You can't really see much movement of the panel on a slight shrink, so you need to keep checking the door fit as you proceed. The trick is to only grab the outer 1/4" of the flange, rather than taking a full depth "bite".

I ended up with 4 spots that I shrunk. One small area that I shrank too much, I just used a body hammer and dolly to "stretch" it back out. You are "squishing" the flange, just like bread dough with a rolling pin...if you can follow what I mean. This type of work is pretty rewarding; a major looking problem getting fixed in a few minutes time.



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Here is the "after" pic showing the curve of the quarter. I have been battling for a week or two to get the correct shapes and gaps on this old car, and I can't explain how I felt when I KNEW I "got it". That was at 3pm Sunday, and I crashed and quit for the day...I had been running on adrenalin, I guess.

I did walk around to the front to sight down both sides and the body looks sweet. I am thrilled with the fit and the door gaps are "stunning" smile.gif .

I will be working on the B pillars and hope to have doors with working latches and handles this week.

EDIT: The mismatched primer colors and blotchy primer coat on the quarters make the car look terrible and warped, but it is real nice in person.



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